2G 1999 GST oil pressure issue after six bolt swap! Help!

[Mike99GST]

I have a 1999 GST I am putting a six bolt block in with 2g head. Got new oil pump installed and everything assembled and in the car. Problem I have is I can not get the dummy oil light or gauge to go out when I am priming the oil pump by cranking engine!!

I have cranked for 20-25 seconds a couple times. I took oil line going to turbo off (which is aftermarket) and I have oil pressure at that line but looking down in the oil cap hole I don’t see much making it up to the head! I did do a balance shaft delete and I made sure all the bearing races were installed correctly to block off oil passages I pumped oil in the sender oil still and tried to crank over and light is still on dash and gauge reads nothing. I have a new OEM sender and switch installed on oil filter housing. Any ideas would help me big time!!!

 

[jdxnc]

Just start it and watch the pressure, you have a real gauge right? Not just relying on the useless stock gauge are you?
If it's a fresh build with assembly lube or a used engine that already had oil in all the bearings, just start it. The starter doesn't rotate the engine fast enough to pump well.

 

[Mike99GST]

It’s a used engine that had oil through it before. It’s a new oil pump and senders. I only have the stock guage and the dummy light on the dash!!! Should I get another guage?

 

[jdxnc]

The stock gauge is pretty well just as useful as the dummy light, it either shows pressure or not. An aftermarket gauge is always a good investment. If you put a new pump, pack the gears with vasoline or light grease and it will prime instantly on startup.

 

[DSMPT]

Like Jason mentioned above, by cranking, it would take longer than you expect. Especially if you don't prime the oil pump gears, oil filter and external oil cooler if you have.
Should remove the timing belt and spin the oil pump sprocket by an electric drill with a 14mm socket until you see the oil is coming out from the rocker arm under the oil filler cap. This would be safer.
When the oil pump starts sucking oil, you can feel that the pump gears start to take a load.

 

[Mike99GST]

Thanks everyone for info. I will be a couple days until I’m back on it but I will update you as soon as I know

 

[RamenPride]

How to prime the oil pump with timing components already installed

IntroductionA lot of people ask if and how they should prime the oil pump after a fresh rebuild before they fire up the engine. I highly recommend priming the oil pump. Every manual I've seen states to do this. So do all the engine builders I've talked to. While it is a known method to...

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[danl]

Another option is to remove the spark plugs and top off the battery to increase cranking speed, allowing oil pressure to be built faster while reducing the load on the top rod bearings. I do this often if a car has been in storage for months.

 

[jed344]

You can also remove the large barb fitting from the intake manifold that goes to brake booster. This is same size and thread as a port on OFH. Then screw it in and force oil threw the housing and pump gears this way too. We have also found with a new pump unless you packed the gears they will not "prime" dry. We also on new build spin the oil pump gear on the stand to prime the motors.

 

[Car Cannibal]

Sorry for the resurrection but...

What is the thread of the OFH in case we don't use that intake booster fitting? Thanks

 

[RamenPride]

3/8" BSPT.

NPT will work if it's a brass fitting due to the softness of the material, but is technically not the correct thread.

 

[Car Cannibal]

Thanks but Oh damn, another post I found said 1/8 BSPT and I bought fittings for that.

 

[19Eclipse90]

The threads for the oil pressure sensor and oil pressure switch, the small ports, on the oil filter housing are 1/8” BSPT. The intake booster nipple is also 1/8” BSPT. So you’re okay.

The larger ports are 3/8” BSPT.