2G 1999 Eclipse GST 6 bolt swap won't stay running for more than 2 secs.

[Mike99GST]

Hey everyone, I need a little help. I bought a 1999 Eclipse GST, disassembled but it came with a six bolt swap with 2g head on it. I assembled everything with new oil pump, pan, seals, kiggly racing crank sensor, new fuel pump, fuel filter, timing belt, water pump, clutch, flywheel, etc.

Got it in the car and the car will crank and start for 2 seconds then stalls out. It will start right back up and again stalls out within two seconds.

I scanned for codes in ECU I have a P1105 and a P0340 (cam sensor). When I purchased this car in pieces it had a harness which I believed was for a 1g cam sensor to be installed. I am just trying to use the 2g cam sensor to get the car running so that harness is no longer on the car, and I plugged the original harness back into the 2g cam sensor.

Still when I start the car it only runs for 2 seconds and shuts off. Any ideas? What should I check next? I am stuck! I've read some cars with the 1g cam sensors there are wires that need swapped at ECU harness, but I don't know if my wires were swapped prior and need swapped back to go back to 2g sensor or not!!!

 

[pauleyman]

Do you have a datalog?

 

[curt-s]

+1

You list a few parts then "etc". Start a vehicle profile and detail everything. We don't even know if you're running a factory ecu

How difficult is it to start? What does it sound like for those two seconds? Stumbles or smooth?

Does it crank for a while then catch or is it instant?

A video could help as well

 

[pauleyman]

Hey everyone, I need a little help. I bought a 1999 Eclipse GST, disassembled but it came with a six bolt swap with 2g head on it. I assembled everything with new oil pump, pan, seals, kiggly racing crank sensor, new fuel pump, fuel filter, timing belt, water pump, clutch, flywheel, etc.

Got it in the car and the car will crank and start for 2 seconds then stalls out. It will start right back up and again stalls out within two seconds.

I scanned for codes in ECU i have a P1105 and a P0340 ( cam sensor). When I purchased this car in pieces it had a harness which I believed was for a 1g cam sensor to be installed. I am just trying to use the 2g cam sensor to get the car running so that harness is no longer on the car, and I plugged the original harness back into the 2g cam sensor.

Still when I start the car it only runs for 2 seconds and shuts off.

does it start clean and seem normal?

Heres what im getting at. My latest purchase i havent had time to dial in idle. Sometimes at cold cold start it will idle high, immediately hit 1500rpm at which point ecu cuts fuel, rpms drop and it almost dies. Almost. Could be in your case it starts, idles up, hits 1500 and cuts fuel then dies. Watch tach and see what it does. If thats the case give the biss a half a turn and try again. Once car runs then you can go about diagnosis, idle set etc.

Any ideas? What should I check next? I am stuck! I've read some cars with the 1g cam sensors there are wires that need swapped at ECU harness, but I don't know if my wires were swapped prior and need swapped back to go back to 2g sensor or not!!!

 

[Mike99GST]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[pauleyman]

I'll ask again. Do you have the ability to datalog?

 

[Mike99GST]

no I don’t unfortunately

 

[steve]

Can you keep in running by giving it some throttle?
Are you still getting fault codes?
Can you hear the fuel pump running?
It's the 2 tooth Kiggly Crank sensor?
1999 Black Box ECU?

How about a current engine bay picture, please.

 

[Mike99GST]

Even giving it throttle it will still die out. It is Kiggly 2 tooth crank sensor. I can hear the fuel pump running. It’s a brand new 255 Walbro pump. It's still kicking a cam sensor code!

I believe it’s a 1999 ECU black box. But I will verify that when I get home again and get a picture!!

I will also get a photo of engine bay tonight!!!

 

[Mike99GST]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Here the ecm in the car

Engine bay

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Also additionally. I don’t know if that ecm was flashed previously to a tune or not!!! Or if that ecm can even be flashed. I’m new to dsm world.

 

[19Eclipse90]

That is the part number for the a 1999 turbo ECU, so you’re good from that standpoint. The 1998-1999 turbo models has the black plastic-cased ECUs that are flashable. I have no idea how you might be able to tell whether it has been flashed or not. Others may have some tips there.

What is the condition of the cam sensor? Has it been replaced or is its history unknown? Pull it out from the housing and have a look.

You can verify the wiring from the sensor back to the ECU and then, at least, you know the code is due to either the ECU or the cam sensor.

 

[We're on Boost]

If you wanted to try a new cam sensor, they are cheap, and the brands that are usually good are all readily available.
1997 - 1999 turbo DSMs use the same sensor.
Here's a listing for 1999, the good ones are towards the bottom of the list:
cam position sensors

NTK is probably the most reliable brand for ignition stuff, but WVE and Standard should be good too.
Maybe another possibility, if your head is actually a 95-96 you'd have a wrong cam sensor for the 99 ecu. Don't know if that even makes any difference, but the 95-96 cam sensor looks entirely different so it would be easy to tell from the pics in Rock Auto.

 

[Mike99GST]

Okay so I tried another ecu from another car same part number and it does the same thing. I checked wiring and seem to have 12v ignition power and ground. The signal wire shows 5 volts just with key on engine off. No sure if that is normal or not!! Next step is check wiring at ecm I guess

Also the crank sensor looks good I also tried another cheap on from eBay and it does the same exact thing!!! :-/

 

[delta448]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Is the connector circled in red plugged in, and the wiring here correct? Trace these wires to confirm.

Take off the 3 screws on the triangle shaped cover and make sure the end of the intake cam has a cup attached with 2 different sized trigger walls that rotate past the black sensor circled in red.

If that all checks out, replace the cam sensor.

When the 97+ ECU loses the cam signal it does exactly what your video shows.