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2G 6 bolt swap

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98gsxawd

10+ Year Contributor
54
0
Aug 6, 2010
San Diego, California
I have a 95 Talon Tsi AWD 5 speed. Mods right now are act 2600 extreme clutch, hks ssqv bov, walbro255, 560cc evo injectors, tomei fpr, fmic, injen intake, 16g turbo, megan 3 inch straight pipe, safc2, and a eprom ecu. I have 3 questions....

1.)When im driving and i step on the gas full throttle and let the accelerator go it turns off on me. Why is that? I was told by a friend that its because i need a recirculation kit for my hks ssqv bov that is vented right now. i dont want that pssshhhhh sound to be gone. How do i go about leaving my bov vented to the atmosphere without it shutting off on me??

2.)I have a 7 bolt engine and i am planning on making it a 6 bolt. What needs to be done in order to do that swap? I know i need a 1g block and crank, also i know i need to switch the motor mount and the flywheel. What parts from my 2g stay and what parts need to be swaped out??

3.)Will my current mods work with a 6bolt motor swap??
 
i honestly dont think that the sound of the bov is worth losing any performance at all i would just hook it up right. just my opinion. im not 100% sure on the 6 bolt swap i am working on it right now but this is my first build so i am learning a little as i go but what i do know so far is that you can cut a little out of one of the motor mounts and either buy this adapter that RRE makes for the CAS or you can wire up your own. i would suggest using the one from RRE atleast thats what im gonna do. i do believe you can also use all of your current performance parts off your 7 bolt yet againn not 100% sure on that one as i am new to this as well
 
recirculate the bov.... if you want optimum power... and for the 6bolt swap just get a complete 6bolt swap and do the driver side mount mod.. and you should be good... you will also need a 6bolt flywheel and ofh
 
Thanks for the motor mount advice ill look into that.

so recirculating the bov will stop that lil shut off?

And i am rebuilding the 6 bolt because my bearings are messed up so i already had the 6 bolt swap in mind so mightass well do it now.
 
I have a 95 Talon Tsi AWD 5 speed. Mods right now are act 2600 extreme clutch, hks ssqv bov, walbro255, 560cc evo injectors, tomei fpr, fmic, injen intake, 16g turbo, megan 3 inch straight pipe, safc2, and a eprom ecu. I have 3 questions....

1.)When im driving and i step on the gas full throttle and let the accelerator go it turns off on me. Why is that? I was told by a friend that its because i need a recirculation kit for my hks ssqv bov that is vented right now. i dont want that pssshhhhh sound to be gone. How do i go about leaving my bov vented to the atmosphere without it shutting off on me??

2.)I have a 7 bolt engine and i am planning on making it a 6 bolt. What needs to be done in order to do that swap? I know i need a 1g block and crank, also i know i need to switch the motor mount and the flywheel. What parts from my 2g stay and what parts need to be swaped out??

3.)Will my current mods work with a 6bolt motor swap??

Sensors, wiring harness, ecu. lots of stuff. btw I have a 6 bolt block for sale. just pm me if your interested.
 
im not sure if it will fix the problem but if it wasnt doing it before you where venting to the atmosphere i would say so. its worth a try anyway

See the thing is i just got the car not that long ago and ive had it vented the whole time. Ive had vented bov's on my 420a turbos ...and it never was an issue. I was told since this one is a 4g63t i have to recirculate it.... i actually doubt it, im sure there is a way to keep it vented because to be honest i dont want to loose the kepisssshhhhhhhhhhh sound, its a head turner..jaja
 
well yet again im not 100% on this but you need to get it tuned with dsmlink or something if there is something that allowes you to play with the fuel curve because your ecu is telling your car that the " wasted air" from the bov is actuailly being used and by venting you are not actuailly using that air but you are still using the same amount of fuel so you are probably running a little rich. i dont think just that would be enough to kill your car at idle though:hmm:. sorry if im not much help, like i said earlier im new to dsm as well.
loving it though:thumb::hellyeah:
 
well yet again im not 100% on this but you need to get it tuned with dsmlink or something if there is something that allowes you to play with the fuel curve because your ecu is telling your car that the " wasted air" from the bov is actuailly being used and by venting you are not actuailly using that air but you are still using the same amount of fuel so you are probably running a little rich. i dont think just that would be enough to kill your car at idle though:hmm:. sorry if im not much help, like i said earlier im new to dsm as well.
loving it though:thumb::hellyeah:

Yea im prutty new to this too. That actually sounds like what the guy at the shop said too. Thanks....
 
If you want to keep the "pssht" sound, use a MAF-T (MAF Translator) with a GM MAF as a blow-through setup, or make it a speed-density system using a map sensor. I believe DSMLink can do either, and the blow-through setup without the MAF-T. I had a 95 Talon that had the BOV vented. It died when I disengaged the clutch pretty much no matter what. As soon as I recirculated the BOV, it ran perfectly. My GSX has the BOV vented, and it never stalls, but a lot of times the RPM's drop VERY low when I disengage the clutch. Final verdict: vented BOV's on DSM's aren't usually good for performance, but how much it's affected seems to depend on the car...
 
If you want to keep the "pssht" sound, use a MAF-T (MAF Translator) with a GM MAF as a blow-through setup, or make it a speed-density system using a map sensor. I believe DSMLink can do either, and the blow-through setup without the MAF-T. I had a 95 Talon that had the BOV vented. It died when I disengaged the clutch pretty much no matter what. As soon as I recirculated the BOV, it ran perfectly. My GSX has the BOV vented, and it never stalls, but a lot of times the RPM's drop VERY low when I disengage the clutch. Final verdict: vented BOV's on DSM's aren't usually good for performance, but how much it's affected seems to depend on the car...

Exactly what he said. It is easier to run a GM MAF and a MAFT than it is to run speed density. Speed Density can be a pain for a beginner. Recirc the BOV and see if that fix's the issue. Also, do you have a datalogger? If you do, post up some logs of WOT and also at idle.

As for the 6 bolt swap. It's a good idea to buy the block, and build a bulletproof one while you still have the 7 bolt running. A lot of the issues with 7-bolts stem from crankwalk, which in general, would have happened in most of these cars by now. The swap is fairly involved, but its not terrible.
 
so if you run vented would it cause any aditional lag seeing as thats extra air pressure just wasted or would you not even notice on a dd?

If you run vented without a GM MAF + MAFT or a MAP for speed density, the ECU reads the air coming in the stock MAF, since you are venting a significant density of air with a vented BOV setup, the ECU ends up completely unaware that you just lost said amount of air. You end up with weird idle problems, possible fuel CEL's, rough acceleration, stumbling after boost, a whole host of different things.

In short, running vented without the proper setup will end up running like the car has a significant boost leak.
 
Exactly what he said. It is easier to run a GM MAF and a MAFT than it is to run speed density. Speed Density can be a pain for a beginner. Recirc the BOV and see if that fix's the issue. Also, do you have a datalogger? If you do, post up some logs of WOT and also at idle.

As for the 6 bolt swap. It's a good idea to buy the block, and build a bulletproof one while you still have the 7 bolt running. A lot of the issues with 7-bolts stem from crankwalk, which in general, would have happened in most of these cars by now. The swap is fairly involved, but its not terrible.

Thanks i knew there was a way to do it, but it sounds like if i wana get the most power then ima have to recirc the bov. I actually dont have a datalogger if i did all the little problems would be gone.
Also ive been hearing alot that the crankwalk on the 7 bolts is really over rated!! Why is that?
 
Thanks i knew there was a way to do it, but it sounds like if i wana get the most power then ima have to recirc the bov. I actually dont have a datalogger if i did all the little problems would be gone.
Also ive been hearing alot that the crankwalk on the 7 bolts is really over rated!! Why is that?

On alot of these cars, crankwalk would have already appeared thousands of miles ago. At the time of release for these cars, it was a serious issue because people were buying 20k cars and blowing engines within 30k miles and it wasn't covered under warranty most of the time. It was only the 7 bolt engines because the 7 bolts have a crank position sensor, which teh 6 bolts do not.

Basically what happens is the crank "walks" enough to the point that it contacts the sensor, thus blowing your engine up. So I guess the 7 bolts just got a bad rap due to it, but most 7 bolt engines around today would have already walked. Granted, a stronger clutch and performance parts increase the risk, but still, its a pretty overstated problem that just gets parroted around on forums a lot.
 
On alot of these cars, crankwalk would have already appeared thousands of miles ago. At the time of release for these cars, it was a serious issue because people were buying 20k cars and blowing engines within 30k miles and it wasn't covered under warranty most of the time. It was only the 7 bolt engines because the 7 bolts have a crank position sensor, which teh 6 bolts do not.

Basically what happens is the crank "walks" enough to the point that it contacts the sensor, thus blowing your engine up. So I guess the 7 bolts just got a bad rap due to it, but most 7 bolt engines around today would have already walked. Granted, a stronger clutch and performance parts increase the risk, but still, its a pretty overstated problem that just gets parroted around on forums a lot.

Yea ,but what if i have the act 2600 extreme clutch and all the mods i have on my car?? i have heard that the 2600 clutch increases the chances...plus im planning on taking this car to the races down here in SD.. so i will put pressure on the car like twice a month. Or is it the same ??
 
Yea ,but what if i have the act 2600 extreme clutch and all the mods i have on my car?? i have heard that the 2600 clutch increases the chances...plus im planning on taking this car to the races down here in SD.. so i will put pressure on the car like twice a month. Or is it the same ??

2600 clutch does increase the chance due to pressure on the flywheel, honestly, just check your clearances if you are worried about it.

If I was you, I would just get a 6 bolt block, can be had for cheap, pick up some nice pistons/rods, maybe even a stroker kit. Send it out to be machined, and then just leave the thing in your garage waiting for you to blow up your 7 bolt, then do the swap. No reason to swap if your 7 bolt is still running strong.
 
2600 clutch does increase the chance due to pressure on the flywheel, honestly, just check your clearances if you are worried about it.

If I was you, I would just get a 6 bolt block, can be had for cheap, pick up some nice pistons/rods, maybe even a stroker kit. Send it out to be machined, and then just leave the thing in your garage waiting for you to blow up your 7 bolt, then do the swap. No reason to swap if your 7 bolt is still running strong.

Damn!! Everyone keeps telling me that i guess im just impatient since i have the 6 bolt block already... but yea that does sound good just beat this one till it dies:)
 
re circlate it and if it stops then your bov is bad and the only way to keep it open for the sound is to change the bov(if it stops after the re circlate) i had a similar problem on my tsi

dont beat it man you can get more money parting it out and that money you can use it for your 6 bolt swap

2600 clutch does increase the chance due to pressure on the flywheel, honestly, just check your clearances if you are worried about it.

If I was you, I would just get a 6 bolt block, can be had for cheap, pick up some nice pistons/rods, maybe even a stroker kit. Send it out to be machined, and then just leave the thing in your garage waiting for you to blow up your 7 bolt, then do the swap. No reason to swap if your 7 bolt is still running strong.

i would recommend if stroking it out to do it on the 7 bolt but only my .02
 
Checkout road race engineering. They have a full list of the swap process. I did the swap. The wiring is the hard part. The sensors don't match up but it can be done. Just research research research!
 
re circlate it and if it stops then your bov is bad and the only way to keep it open for the sound is to change the bov(if it stops after the re circlate) i had a similar problem on my tsi

dont beat it man you can get more money parting it out and that money you can use it for your 6 bolt swap



i would recommend if stroking it out to do it on the 7 bolt but only my .02

why do u recommend stroking out the 7 bolt instead of a 6bolt?? I thought the 6 bolts are stronger??

Checkout road race engineering. They have a full list of the swap process. I did the swap. The wiring is the hard part. The sensors don't match up but it can be done. Just research research research!

Yea man not looking forward to that, but my friend did it once already so it shouldnt be that bad i guess....
 
Its not that 6 bolts are any stronger. The engines are a bit different so its hard to compare, either can fail just like any engine can. The 7 bolts have a different oil squirter setup and they can become stuck open dropping oil pressure at low rpms, this will eventually eat the thrust bearing.
 
Yo i got a few questions i have a 6 bolt engine swap in my 95 eclipse with a 98 transmission rebuilt with shorter gears Tdo4 turbo i'm not trying brag i'm just try to give you an idea what i'm working with. but i have a problem i turn on the car and its mis firing bad. and shuts off feels like if its not getting fuel. i changed fuel pump, dropped the tank and changed fuel (car was a shell for 2 years) and everything its got my on the verge on cutting my wrist please help me out send me private message i need help.

Not like many people care but i'm thinking of sawdering the wiring harness that i needed to rewire and clean all the grounds and find out if it runs any better i changed my oxygen sensor. its not my computer or timing on the engire not the distributor and spark plug or wires. i just need a little bit. at first i was blowing the start engine fuse i fix that problem like i said im sawder the wires. the sensors aren't throwing check engine.
 
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