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Where are the FWDs at????

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Thanks!

Ended up breaking BOTH axels on the 1st pass as soon as the car hooked, no biggie, a simple trip to Discount and my warranty on both of them and she will be good as new!
 
Thanks!

Ended up breaking BOTH axels on the 1st pass as soon as the car hooked, no biggie, a simple trip to Discount and my warranty on both of them and she will be good as new!

NICE! Thats why I always spend the few extra bucks on the parts that are "lifetime warranty" its not like they ask how it broke or if the car was being raced/making 2-3x the power as stock or anything. The toughest part for me is remembering which store of the main 4 brands that i bought each thing at (should probably start a record/log) I usually end up on the phone for an hour or so having them lookup the original invoice. really bad thing is i have 3 accounts at some stores and can't get them deleted/combined no matter how much i ask. I have all under the same number my first and last name on one, my middle and last on another (go by my middle name) and then I have the business account that i use for customer work, but i have started putting everything under my business account to simplify warranty items now days

What kicks ass about O'reilly and/or going to the same store where you become friends with the cashiers is that they usually don't care if you change parts on warranty.. for example, after my 3rd mitsu alt in about 14 months, I decided to do the saturn swap, well they let me get the saturn alt on warranty while turning in the mitsu unit. And the saturn unit is now lifetime warranty as well (replaced it once from oil getting into it)

I really miss my car being FWD, it was so much more of an exciting ride and with the built trans i could shift at 8500RPM like nothing, not to mention the white knuckle experience of holding the car in one lane when making 430+hp and the LSD is locked which causes your car to want to move around up front due to the imperfections in the pavement surface.

I love the AWD for 1st and 2nd gears, but everytime i go in the garage I look at the slicks, TRE trans and think "man, it was a whole lot more fun" and then i remember the looks on passengers faces as they frantically grabbed for anything they could hold onto once the power came on in third and i would start to get traction LOL

I have a lot of respect for the guys sticking it out in the FWD game, but i think i was at an area where the car either needed to be gutted and "race only" or put a much smaller turbo on it to retain daily driving duties without getting frustrated that the first two gears even with the LSD were only usefull for tearing tread off tires once the power came on.

Now everything is an exercise in self control because i know the AWD won't be as forgiving to a clutch release under boost and 2 stepping at 5k RPM.. at least with FWD it would spin till it hooked then go (when it had slicks on it anyway) but the AWD is a game of "bog or break" and everynow and then getting that good launch where you don't bog but aren't smelling clutch and watching it slip by the time the power is on in 2nd
 
Speaking of warranty exchange...

Slow91Laser, can you swap your broken axles for 1993-94 FWD turbo axles? Mitsu upgraded the turbo FWD axles and front diff, they're thicker and stronger. TRE has 93-99 FWD front diff for $60 on the garage sale page Garage Sale - Team Rip Engineering

Oh wait, do you have a 5 speed or auto trans?
 
Speaking of warranty exchange...

Slow91Laser, can you swap your broken axles for 1993-94 FWD turbo axles? Mitsu upgraded the turbo FWD axles and front diff, they're thicker and stronger. TRE has 93-99 FWD front diff for $60 on the garage sale page Garage Sale - Team Rip Engineering

Oh wait, do you have a 5 speed or auto trans?

Dont think so, i got in touch with a friend of mine that built my trans he does indeed have the diff. that accepts the bigger axles, he told me the problem is that the bigger 93-94 fwd axles are much harder to find but can be done, i just might end up going that route......:thumb:

BTW: My car is still a 5spd, although i have been thinking of going auto.....
 
Dont think so, i got in touch with a friend of mine that built my trans he does indeed have the diff. that accepts the bigger axles, he told me the problem is that the bigger 93-94 fwd axles are much harder to find but can be done, i just might end up going that route......:thumb:

BTW: My car is still a 5spd, although i have been thinking of going auto.....

How did the car hook with those drag radials? How much power are you making?

Im in the process of switching to auto. Have all the parts, just need to put it all in and get it re-tuned. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
How did the car hook with those drag radials? How much power are you making?

Im in the process of switching to auto. Have all the parts, just need to put it all in and get it re-tuned. I'll let you know how it goes.

My car only makes around 460-470whp (link showed 460, and 70-90 times were 1.7).....

I was rather suprised on how well they hooked on the street, did a quick 2nd gear pull on the way to the track and the car just hooked and booked.....:D

I might just stick with the radial over the slicks, these radials are alot easier to drive on the street vs the slicks also.....

I'll be heading back out to the track on Friday to try my luck again, going to just roll out instead of comming off the 2 step, i will post up my times and the results afterwards.....:thumb:
 
My car only makes around 460-470whp (link showed 460, and 70-90 times were 1.7).....

I was rather suprised on how well they hooked on the street, did a quick 2nd gear pull on the way to the track and the car just hooked and booked.....:D

I might just stick with the radial over the slicks, these radials are alot easier to drive on the street vs the slicks also.....

I'll be heading back out to the track on Friday to try my luck again, going to just roll out instead of comming off the 2 step, i will post up my times and the results afterwards.....:thumb:

Its weird you broke the axles. I have the same axles and never broke one making over 50 passes with them. Oh well. Good luck with the track this friday. Looking forward to some results.
 
I just now pulled them and it looks like the passenger side sheared the shaft CLEAN off inside the cup, the drivers side LOOKED fine but was still broke.....


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I just now pulled them and it looks like the passenger side sheared the shaft CLEAN off inside the cup, the drivers side LOOKED fine but was still broke.....


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Hey B that's the way to do it... ;) both at the same time. Good to see you still going at it with the dsm's. If you need any help let me know :thumb:
 

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I have been contemplating this as I am also FWD at the moment.

This seems to be something of a necessity for when I have LSR skinnies on to run on the salt at Bonneville. Otherwise it will be a real handful.

How long did it take to set up and figure out what duty cycle provided what boost? I have two 38mm wastegates that will have to cooperate and work together.
It was extremely easy to setup and tune. The mechanics of it are just two wires (one to ECU pin 105 and the other to an ECU sensor ground) and 2 hoses (one to boost source and the other to the wastegate). Dialing it in was also extremely easy and took about 2 pulls to get it close and just a few more to get it perfect. It is no harder (albeit different) then setting up a MBC. As far as control, you can have separate boost levels for 1st gear, 2nd gear, and 3rd and up. Here is ECMtuning boost control page: boostcontrol [ECMTuning - wiki]. If you have any other questions or want more specifics feel ask away.
 
Thanks for moving this over here! I have gone through that wiki, I was curious if you had any insight on what if any changes or issues I should expect with having to run the lines to 2 wastegates (divided T4 hotside)

I was thinking of using a larger -3 or -4AN line with a T-fitting.

Are you using a wastegate with a primary and secondary port? I anticipate with the boost levels I will be running next spring that I will have to use the secondary port as well.

Any experience there?
 
Thanks for moving this over here! I have gone through that wiki, I was curious if you had any insight on what if any changes or issues I should expect with having to run the lines to 2 wastegates (divided T4 hotside)

I was thinking of using a larger -3 or -4AN line with a T-fitting.

Are you using a wastegate with a primary and secondary port? I anticipate with the boost levels I will be running next spring that I will have to use the secondary port as well.

Any experience there?
I am currently still on the stock internal wastegate (Still rocking the 14b). I have an external setup with a Tial 38mm MVS sitting in my garage waiting to go on as soon as I make my last pass of the year (waiting for the weather to cooperate). So I don't personally have any experience with using dual wastegate ports. They do have a diagram on their page for using both ports though:

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Ahh perfect. Not entirely sure how I managed to miss that. Thank you sir!

So after a little more researching it looks like what I had envisioned in my head was not too far off the mark, as the Niemczyk's dragster is using a similar setup:
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Bob And Tony Niemczyk's 6-Second Mitsubishi-Powered I/Dragster - Dragzine.com
 
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My car only makes around 460-470whp (link showed 460, and 70-90 times were 1.7).....

I was rather suprised on how well they hooked on the street, did a quick 2nd gear pull on the way to the track and the car just hooked and booked.....:D

I might just stick with the radial over the slicks, these radials are alot easier to drive on the street vs the slicks also.....

I'll be heading back out to the track on Friday to try my luck again, going to just roll out instead of comming off the 2 step, i will post up my times and the results afterwards.....:thumb:

Dont get ancey and just drop the clutch you will break everything! Slip first and bounce the rev limiter. We are gunna try to come down to Orlando next week. It will be a last hoora for the year, we have the new turbo and fuel system-injectors for now. Gunna see if we granade this 5speed! Its time for the auto train.

So far our logs indicate 66lbs/m at 18psi and have room to hit 40ish next week.:hellyeah:
 
Dont get ancey and just drop the clutch you will break everything! Slip first and bounce the rev limiter. We are gunna try to come down to Orlando next week. It will be a last hoora for the year, we have the new turbo and fuel system-injectors for now. Gunna see if we granade this 5speed! Its time for the auto train.

So far our logs indicate 66lbs/m at 18psi and have room to hit 40ish next week.:hellyeah:

Thats the funny thing, i actually brought her on the 2 step (5500rpm's) and slowly let the clutch out, didnt drop it at all, pretty weird but it happens!
 
here my new winter plan-
dsmlink v3 with english racing tune (this sunday), rear CO jack up a bit , 17" hoosier dot's
im painting the IC pipes for a super stealh look
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i like those terhune race works axels they look sweet-
 

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How much boost were you running? As for the tires, I was going off the post on the top of this page saying he would be on 17" Hoosier DOT tires.
 
How much boost were you running? As for the tires, I was going off the post on the top of this page saying he would be on 17" Hoosier DOT tires.

I was running 16 psi yea Hoosier's will be on for the march race I had to fix some shit first. But I had fun and made the 250 mile round trip with out a problem so that's good.
 
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