The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Where are the FWDs at????

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

No. You dont need actual beadlock wheels untill you get close to 200mph. Rim screws are only needed when the tire spins on the rim. I had the tires put on dry so the is no tire soap on the beads, and I have yet to spin them. Tire/rim spin doesnt have a time or power level limit untill it starts. We have a tire sponsor so they put them on for us and know more about rim spin than I will ever! Although I have screws and template ready for when the do spin. One thing I will tell you that if you get real slicks coat the inside with dawn dish soap (no water just soap) and you wont loose tire pressure over time and it helps soften the rubber from the inside out.
 
Where is this FWD at? Getting put back together after fresh paint. Should be driving it again next week and it's starting to warm up here so looking to be on the track again soon too! Looking forward to more practice with the Hoosier DR's.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
No. You dont need actual beadlock wheels untill you get close to 200mph. Rim screws are only needed when the tire spins on the rim. I had the tires put on dry so the is no tire soap on the beads, and I have yet to spin them. Tire/rim spin doesnt have a time or power level limit untill it starts. We have a tire sponsor so they put them on for us and know more about rim spin than I will ever! Although I have screws and template ready for when the do spin. One thing I will tell you that if you get real slicks coat the inside with dawn dish soap (no water just soap) and you wont loose tire pressure over time and it helps soften the rubber from the inside out.

I was actually referring to losing tire pressure and not holding the bead more than tire spin. When I had my M/T ET drag slicks on, I ran them around 11psi. They held fine for the event, but by a day or so later with them sitting in the garage, all the tire pressure was gone. That's what I was getting at...thanks for the info.

Nate, your car is looking good!
 
I was actually referring to losing tire pressure and not holding the bead more than tire spin. When I had my M/T ET drag slicks on, I ran them around 11psi. They held fine for the event, but by a day or so later with them sitting in the garage, all the tire pressure was gone. That's what I was getting at...thanks for the info.

Nate, your car is looking good!

My QTPs go flat on a daily basis. It kinda sucks but it is what it is.
 
Coat the inside of your tires with DAWN and they wont go flat........ I air'd mine up to 12psi before we put it back on the trailer and still holding 12psi currently. And Id be willing to bet they will have atleast 10psi when its time to put it back on the trailer on the 12th.

I was actually referring to losing tire pressure and not holding the bead more than tire spin. When I had my M/T ET drag slicks on, I ran them around 11psi. They held fine for the event, but by a day or so later with them sitting in the garage, all the tire pressure was gone.

Id run closer to 7psi on ps-side and 6psi on driverside
 
Last edited:
For me it seems pointless to go that high if 11-12 psi is working fine and cutting good 60' times. Just addes extra drag to the turning force for no reason...at least that's how I look at it. But I will definitely try the dawn soap idea. Thanks for the heads up!
 
we run as low as 5psi no bead lock or screws. after the burnout tires go back up to 6- 6.5psi. we cut 1.45- 1.5 60ft every time

This is on the 1200+hp FWD civic.
 
IFO Gainesville is 3 days out, we have all our bugs worked out and ready to break into the 9s. It should be a great event. Our goal is to hold the 2g FWD by May, 9.57 is the time to beat. That will put us right behind Kiggly within FWD dsm's.



Edit: checked my tire pressure tonight and my lf has 9psi and rf has 7psi. Havent put air in them since Jan 22 IFO
 
Last edited:
so im looking through this stuff. and it seems odd to me.
most of the timeslips on this site seem to be the AWD side of stuff. which creates a lower trap speed usually(from what i can see)

im coming from the honda turbo side of the world. where 350whp nets you mid 120 traps in a 2300 lbs car.
with the fwd guys on here. (im in a 2g) what are the traps/hp areas you are in. im ###### around the 360-400whp arae at the moment. and im hoping to pop off a high 1teen trap(118ish). but it seems to not be the norm?... i just dont know how 5-600lbs would be a 10mph trap difference in a car that makes 30-50whp more?...
 
I got 235 /260 and a 98 mph trap , the Hondas round here are like 1800-2000lb so my 2700lb is a lot more weight to move


On a side note I got the tbelt done and jacked the rear up some more, took out another 80lb or so and am running 20-22 psi for the next race in march.... Now i gotta get some tires
 
Starting to make some progress...

Greg Weld Wheels
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


11:1, alum rod, half filled, Crane billet cams...
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


My one off FF manifold
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I should have my sinister converter end of this week, I hope. Though, I don't know when I'll have my auto conversion done. If you don't mind my asking, whats your suspension setup?
 
Definitely keep us posted on the converter. Right now i have gcc sleeves, kyb agx and a spring rate kiggly and i thought would be a good starting point. Im scheduled to get the cage, front bumper, front traction bar and rear bumper/parachute installed first of april.
 
I will let you know as soon as it all goes in. I will also be following you as I am very interested in your car.
 
I wish I did but I have been trying to decide if I wanna try a sinister for drag only or go to a smaller turbo and find another converter. I do street drive my car so I really do not feel like swapping converters for a race.
 
I went to the track tonight and the Hoosiers just weren't grabbing like the last time (which was also the first time) I used them. I got a best 60' of 2.2 and ran a best of 13.10 @ 112 MPH (14b). I've got some vids I'll post later.

EDIT - Here is one of me beating a Corvette tonight:

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/6uxcvuzuq7o?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Haha love it!! I think you need to heat those tires up some more and maybe drop the pressure abit. Your mph is good for mid 12's if you can get that 60' down to about 1.8-1.9. Man I live in stinkin paridise and havnt even got to race this year yet. They keep canceling the races, and well the fact we got 42"+ of rain within the last few days LOL. Oh well :(
 
My tre tranny lasted 3 or 4 trips to the track before it gave away so ive been out of commission for a bit.

I have a chance to do an auto swap right now but im curious to know what the fwd guys pushing 500 - 600+ hp are doing to upgrade your autos?
I also have a stock 97 gsx auto that I havnt started messing with yet.
 
My tre tranny lasted 3 or 4 trips to the track before it gave away so ive been out of commission for a bit.

I have a chance to do an auto swap right now but im curious to know what the fwd guys pushing 500 - 600+ hp are doing to upgrade your autos?
I also have a stock 97 gsx auto that I havnt started messing with yet.

:hmm:Just curious how old was the transmission?
 
:hmm:Just curious how old was the transmission?

I recieved the tranny around May of 2009 so its not brand new or anything...but my car isnt a daily driver and with the slow issues it was having I wasnt driving it for fun.
I think from may of 2009 till july 2011 I put almost 3000 miles on it...most of which was easy driving under zero boost.

Well I babied it during the break in period (500 miles). Changed tranny fluid to recommended redline (i believe).Took it to the trak and realized my car was slow (doesnt accel as fast as it should....still didnt figure it out before tranny messed up).
After the first trip to the track I spent a lot of time and money at the mechanic (90 mile drive there and back) with random trips with my mechanic to the track until I realized the strong oder of burning tranny fluid on my drive home.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top