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Where are the FWDs at????

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This thread is really inspiring. i also run a 97 gs-t with an evo3 16g. two years back before alot of the mods i have now i was able to run 13.5, now i cant get out of the 14s its pretty sad. My car is producing about 300whp and i roast the tires through 1st and second. I know the driver is the problem cause im not launching right.
Im planning a turbo upgrade, something with a bit more lag, for about 400-450whp what would you guys suggest? i also recently installed a quaife lsd. Furthermore, i was considering some slicks but seeing as im running gsx/powerslot brake setup i can only run 17s or bigger on my car. What do you guys think about the bfg drag radials?
The season is almost over here but im really hopping to get into the 12s next season.

I forgot to add that my car is a DD and what ever power i make i want it to be on 94 oct pump gas!
I was looking at the fpgreen or the scm5031.
 
I went to the track last friday and man what a flop. My first pass I wass babying it just to make sure everything was ok and going to hold and ran a 12.4. My second pass I left harder and banged through the gears and I somehow got locked out of 4th with plenty of track left so I just left off and coasted over the line at 12.1@101. My third pass I knew the car would hold everything, so I left and made a 1.77-60foot and 2nd gear exploded, limped it back to the trailer. I got it all put back togeather and ready for the Import face off this weekend and I also added a 75 shot of Nos to aid my pursuit of 10s.
 
I went to the track last friday and man what a flop. My first pass I wass babying it just to make sure everything was ok and going to hold and ran a 12.4. My second pass I left harder and banged through the gears and I somehow got locked out of 4th with plenty of track left so I just left off and coasted over the line at 12.1@101. My third pass I knew the car would hold everything, so I left and made a 1.77-60foot and 2nd gear exploded, limped it back to the trailer. I got it all put back togeather and ready for the Import face off this weekend and I also added a 75 shot of Nos to aid my pursuit of 10s.

Sorry about your luck, that's a very good 60' though. What is your set up? Also what size/kind of slicks are you using? Hopefully it will all come together next time.
 
pte5557, hawver intake,75mm tb, vsr fmic, 1250cc injectors, sunoco 110. I have hoosiers dot slicks, 225/60/16 (24/9.5/16)
 
What type of clutches are you guys who are around the 400hp mark running? I've been through 2 Fidanza clutches in the past 3000 miles because the springs keep popping out. Right now I'm debating between an unsprung ACT 2600 or a South Bend unit.....any suggestions?
 
Update on my car with the hx35. Went 8.0@97 in the 8th. I had a shitty 2.0 60ft with slicks. I will make an 11 sec 1/4 pass soon. I made this 8th mile pass on 25lbs so I have plenty left and the fuel to do it.
 
I took 2nd in FWD-Pro yesterday at the importfaceoff.net comp. I went 11.5@130 with a 1.9 60foot (yes I know dont burn me) The car has 10s in its blood but I need a full slick not these hoosier DOT's. If I can cut a 1.6 it will run a mid 10. I havent taken the car to the dyno just yet, and after those pulls yesterday with the 50shot I was running a 10.5:1 AFR. Still more work ahead of me, next race is in december at orlando.



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Im on the Hoosiers right now, and im trying to sell them. Im going to buy some mt 26x10.5x15.
 
What type of clutches are you guys who are around the 400hp mark running? I've been through 2 Fidanza clutches in the past 3000 miles because the springs keep popping out. Right now I'm debating between an unsprung ACT 2600 or a South Bend unit.....any suggestions?


i only run southbend clutches now they make one of the best clutch kits i have ever ran and trust me on the fact that i have ran just about every clutch out there if your not going twin disk then go southbend clutch
 
I was sponsored by SPEC back in 05, at that time the clutches where poop. They seem to have gotten the stuff in line now. Im working with Fidanza at the moment, im on there 2nd version of the 4.3. The first one shreaded. They beefed it up some I think it might hold now. But IMO ACT is the only way to go. I put down around 550whp and the 2600 holds solid, LOL its my backup clutch, and I only use ACT during events as I know it wont break. And for many many years Ive driven on 6pucks solid or sprung, their engaugment really isnt that bad. Buy the 6puck and do the dsm thing and overbuild a bit, you cant go wrong
 
I have a set of power slot rotors with the gsx brakes up front what can I do in terms of tire size. Apparently I can only run a 17 inch rim, so am I condemned to the bfg dr's? Or which other dr's with more grip can I run?
 
I have a set of power slot rotors with the gsx brakes up front what can I do in terms of tire size. Apparently I can only run a 17 inch rim, so am I condemned to the bfg dr's? Or which other dr's with more grip can I run?

No clue where you got that info, you can easily fit pretty much any 16s (the GSX "big" brakes came with 16" wheels from the factory). You can even clear some 15s with the right offset.
 
No clue where you got that info, you can easily fit pretty much any 16s (the GSX "big" brakes came with 16" wheels from the factory). You can even clear some 15s with the right offset.

hoosier makes a 17in tire. Hoosier Racing Tire 17327 - Hoosier DOT Drag Radial Tires - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Probably not the best idea for a FWD car but if its your only option.

I just ordered some 16" QTPs. I cant wait to see how these do for my car on the street and track. I will definitely update when I get them mounted and drive.
 
Just wanted to add info about my project FWD 90 Laser. Went 14.8 bone stock on 91 octane and street tires (spare removed, everything else in tact). On 15psi, around 93 octane, and 140lb of weight removed and slicks, it went 13.8 @ 96.3 w/ the stock clutch starting to slip. Waiting to pick up some more parts and I'll be headed back to see what she'll do on E85 and an Evo 8 ECU on the stock block with 144K + miles on the clock!
 
I just had a break through! I think I found a way to eleminate the weight transfer and keep the front end planted without a wheelie bar.

What If I got an old stock shock and spring and welded it so that the shock wont move up and down, and welded supports into the spring so that there wont be any movement out of the assembly. Thus taking out the movement of the rear suspension. I.E. a solid rear end. Not practical for DD car but I think it might work for race only.

What are yalls thoughts?
 
An old school v8 guy i know did something somewhat similar. He mounted a bracket between the frame/floor of the car and the pumpkin. It was welded to the frame/floor and was made adjustable. The bottom side that was at the pumpkin had a REALLY heavy duty hard rubber bushing. He adjusted the unit until the bushing was right up against the housing when sitting at the ride height he wanted. The rubber bushing was soft enough to give just a slight bit of weight transfer to the rear tires, but not so much as to "rock" the car. The bushing was obviously very high quality and strong enough to handle this very well. I would look into making something like this that's adjustable. What if your positioning that you weld the shock in isn't ideal? Then you gotta hack it up again or make two more. If it's adjustable from the get go, then you can adjust and try again!
 
An old school v8 guy i know did something somewhat similar. He mounted a bracket between the frame/floor of the car and the pumpkin. It was welded to the frame/floor and was made adjustable. The bottom side that was at the pumpkin had a REALLY heavy duty hard rubber bushing. He adjusted the unit until the bushing was right up against the housing when sitting at the ride height he wanted. The rubber bushing was soft enough to give just a slight bit of weight transfer to the rear tires, but not so much as to "rock" the car. The bushing was obviously very high quality and strong enough to handle this very well. I would look into making something like this that's adjustable. What if your positioning that you weld the shock in isn't ideal? Then you gotta hack it up again or make two more. If it's adjustable from the get go, then you can adjust and try again!
 
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