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Where are the FWDs at????

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Well, I headed down to the track last night..On the worst track prep ever, my car was spinning on the M&H 24.5x8.5 slicks at the top of third.

Heres the slip.

1.78 - 60 ft
4.88 - 330ft
7.196 - 1/8 mile
109.22 mph - 1/8 mile mph
9.16 - 1000ft
123.97 mph - 1000ft mph

10.70 - 1/4 mile
138.08 mph - 1/4 mile mph



I have the power and I have the mph, but the track prep was the worst Ive ever been on...

On a good note though, the car ran 3 10second passes, all 137mph or higher, and I drove it home.....

I had a couple people taking videos, so I post one up whenever I get them.

-Kevin-
 
Well, I headed down to the track last night..On the worst track prep ever, my car was spinning on the M&H 24.5x8.5 slicks at the top of third.

Heres the slip.

1.78 - 60 ft
4.88 - 330ft
7.196 - 1/8 mile
109.22 mph - 1/8 mile mph
9.16 - 1000ft
123.97 mph - 1000ft mph

10.70 - 1/4 mile
138.08 mph - 1/4 mile mph



I have the power and I have the mph, but the track prep was the worst Ive ever been on...

On a good note though, the car ran 3 10second passes, all 137mph or higher, and I drove it home.....

I had a couple people taking videos, so I post one up whenever I get them.

-Kevin-
Awesome!! Can't wait to see your times when it sticks!!
 
An old school v8 guy i know did something somewhat similar. He mounted a bracket between the frame/floor of the car and the pumpkin. It was welded to the frame/floor and was made adjustable. The bottom side that was at the pumpkin had a REALLY heavy duty hard rubber bushing. He adjusted the unit until the bushing was right up against the housing when sitting at the ride height he wanted. The rubber bushing was soft enough to give just a slight bit of weight transfer to the rear tires, but not so much as to "rock" the car. The bushing was obviously very high quality and strong enough to handle this very well. I would look into making something like this that's adjustable. What if your positioning that you weld the shock in isn't ideal? Then you gotta hack it up again or make two more. If it's adjustable from the get go, then you can adjust and try again!

Thanks for the input, I didnt think about that. Fabing up something or another wont be that hard. Just have to take my time. BUT it will be tons and tons cheaper than buying a full coilover system, I called my vendor and a full race ksport would cost me like $800 (900lb springs in the front and 1000 in the back). I watched the vid over and over from my last event and looking at it in slow motion, and still frames. I have tons of weight transfer, the front looks like a pissed off cat. I have kyb agx and tein s-tech's with a full doughnut booster in the rear (on the top of the coil) The rear of the car is gutted and has a CF hatch with lexan.

Any thoughts or ideas to make it adjustable, we have independet suspension in the rear. Like I stated before, just welding it all togeather so its one solid rearend, But I supose a small ammout of give wouldnt hurt so I dont bend anything.

The next thing on my choping block is to remove the stock fuel tank and spare tire well, put a 3 gallon behind the front bumper. I also was looking at the front 2g wheels that I have these hoosiers mounted to, their what I think 6 or 7'' wide? If I had some 9'' wides Id get a better footprint.
 
The next thing on my choping block is to remove the stock fuel tank and spare tire well, put a 3 gallon behind the front bumper. I also was looking at the front 2g wheels that I have these hoosiers mounted to, their what I think 6 or 7'' wide? If I had some 9'' wides Id get a better footprint.[/QUOTE]

Hey how is the fitment of your hoosier drag radials? I ended up getting QTPs and there is about a piece of papers distance between the back of the tire and the wishbone arm. They don't rub though. The QTP is 26x9.5.16...

This is with stock suspension. I have Tein S-tech springs on the way. So far they seem pretty good. I took the car out and brake boosted from 45 and they hazed a little but I didnt lite them up or anything like I did a street tire.
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I bet once you drop the pressure down to 10psi they might rub. Mine dont rub at all. Your best bet would be to get a diffrent set of rims. Good luck with those!
 
For anybody who has facebook....Here are a couple vids from this weekend...These videos will give you an idea how bad our track is here...

10.70 @ 138mph - Half track view
Welcome to Facebook

10.88 @ 138mph - Off the line view
Welcome to Facebook

More videos are coming, just waiting on the guy to make a compilation video out of them....

-Kevin-
 
For anybody who has facebook....Here are a couple vids from this weekend...These videos will give you an idea how bad our track is here...

10.70 @ 138mph - Half track view
Welcome to Facebook

10.88 @ 138mph - Off the line view
Welcome to Facebook

More videos are coming, just waiting on the guy to make a compilation video out of them....

-Kevin-

Can't see the video, this is what it says: This video either has been removed from Facebook or is not visible due to privacy settings.
 
No clue where you got that info, you can easily fit pretty much any 16s (the GSX "big" brakes came with 16" wheels from the factory). You can even clear some 15s with the right offset.

Not sure, the rotor size is 12.5 instead of 10.8. And right now with my 17" rims the caliper is comming pretty damn close :(. Which wheels/tire would be best?
 
Not sure, the rotor size is 12.5 instead of 10.8. And right now with my 17" rims the caliper is comming pretty damn close :(. Which wheels/tire would be best?

It sounds like you don't have OEM brakes on the car. The largest factory rotors are the 92.5-99 AWD, which are about 10.8" I have them on my car and I just picked up a set of 15" Drag DR17s for slicks, they clear the factory "big" brakes fine.

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I read another post about someone saying they make 16 inch wheels got big brake kits but I can't find anything online. Can anyone shed some light on this? Does anyone else run the gsx calipers with the power slot rotors?(12.5inch)

Also would it be worth it to get the bfgs in 225/45/17? I have a quaife LSD but I honestly still spin alot. Another thing I could do is set me profec-b to like 12psi to take off then a high setting.
 
What kind of power are you pushing? Your really going to want a full coilover system so you can tighten up the rearend so it doesnt squat when you launch. You might want to get the KDW if your going to run it on the street and get a set of hooisers or MT/streets
 
I'm running kdws ATM. I'm pushing about 300whp on a conservative tune. I'm sure she's got more in her. As for the mt and I don't think they make them in my size. And if they do is 17 too big? Is there a 16 inch wheel I can fit in front of those big rotors?
 
Forgot to add, I'm running 14s on the quarter :(. And a 114 ish mph with a really bad high 2s 60 ft :(? This car is better than that I know it.
 
Sounds like you're driving like most Honda owners I know...drop it at 7k regardless of traction. I know 300 hp will spin some small tires on a FWD really quickly, so you gotta "roll" into the throttle on the launch. Even stock I could only launch around 2200 rpm on street tires and still got a little spin. yes you come out slow, but that's better than spinning the first 100'.
 
I really wish I could say your right cause that would be an easy fix. Here's how it stands. I rev to 45ish(any lower I bog). And I slip the clutch, maybe I'm not slipping it enough. I get thru first pretty well but when my turbo kicks in I spin like a mofo all the way thru second and I finally get grip in 3rd.

I know the cheapest way to improve my et's is to improve my driving! You think the car is capable of 12s? I do.

I also never tried deflating my tires I always run them at 35 psi and I'm sure that doesn't help either
 
Forgot to add, I'm running 14s on the quarter :(. And a 114 ish mph with a really bad high 2s 60 ft :(? This car is better than that I know it.

I'm running mid to low 14's with the stock turbo (14 psi) and injectors with no tuning or logging. And I'm running 15-20 MPH less then you.

I really wish I could say your right cause that would be an easy fix. Here's how it stands. I rev to 45ish(any lower I bog). And I slip the clutch, maybe I'm not slipping it enough. I get thru first pretty well but when my turbo kicks in I spin like a mofo all the way thru second and I finally get grip in 3rd.

I know the cheapest way to improve my et's is to improve my driving! You think the car is capable of 12s? I do.

I also never tried deflating my tires I always run them at 35 psi and I'm sure that doesn't help either

Do NOT go full throttle until you can do so without loosing traction. If you have to keep partial throttle though second, and even the start of third, do it. That alone will net you better times.

Also I leave my tire pressure at 30 in the fronts. If you are having trouble bogging at the lower launch RPMs, lowering the pressure will only make it worse. I usually launch at 3,500 RPM's and slip the clutch and a good 60' is 2.3-2.4 for me. I have 17" street tires as well.

Hope this helps!
 
Even on the street tires I deflated them to around 24-25psi. Makes them a lot softer and helps a lot...especially in higher gears once you get to rolling. Or you could pick up some sticky tires and try that. Saw some for sale on the forums for like $250. And yes, I think it has 12s no problem. I went 13.8 on 15psi, some slicks 140lb of weight removal and about 93 octane (no tune - gas was 4 gallons 91, 1 gallon 104).
 
I have a lead foot that I need some weight reduction on! So would it be worth it to get 17" drs? Or does anyone know of any 16" wheels that will fit over the 12.5 inch brakes.

Also the rear tokicos are starting to wear! I need coilovers next year! Which should I go for? Megan racing? Are they too stiff for the street? Personal experiences would be great and other brands as suggestions also! Thanks
 
Or does anyone know of any 16" wheels that will fit over the 12.5 inch brakes.

After some digging, it looks like Powerslot bought out AEM's brake division. If you have that kit using the stock FWD single piston caliper, it looks like it'll clear most 16" wheels, but if you have the GSX calipers it sounds like you're going to be more limited but you can probably still find a set that'll fit. Find a few friends with 16s and jack their car up next to yours and try a wheel on to find out for sure.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/vendor-announcements/378697-aem-big-brake-kit-2g-fwd.html

AEM Brake Upgrade Kit Installing on a 1G With Single Piston Calipers.

It's typically the calipers that cause the clearance issues with smaller wheels on big brakes, not the rotor. To give you an idea of what you can get away with, here's a pic of my 16" wheels "almost" clearing my front EVO brakes.

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EVO guys have also been running the OEM RX7 wheels for drag radials lately, there are two versions. Only the earlier version works and they need to run a 20mm spacer, but your caliper is much smaller than an EVO's so you might be able to get away with either version and possibly even no spacer.

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-ti...rx7-wheels-20mm-spacers-pics-needed-help.html
 
I'm running gsx calipers with the powerslot kit! I'll upload a pic of my 17s with the brakes as they are now

Looks like I might have some space! Not sure if it's enough

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I would almost suggest selling the big brakes and getting a smaller rotor/caliper setup. Weight off the wheel/tire combo (rotational mass) is a huge advantage. My Evo 8 stock wheels with 17" Hoosiers was right around 42lb each...which is probably the area you would be in with most 17s. The 15" aluminum wheels and the M/T ET drag slicks I have now (15x8 rim with 24.5 x 8 tire) weighs in at just over 30lb...huge difference!!!
 
I'm a weekend warrior and the car sees little track time I don't think that selling my brakes would be the best option. Although it's something to think about. So the 17s would they grip at all?

The track is also 45 mins away from my house and I don't have a trailer so ideally I would love to drive to the track and run with a street setup. I know I'll never hit 10s. But I want 12s at least
 
Mine is my daily now, but hope it will be my track car eventually. I still drive it to the track as well. I have to haul my slicks with a jack and everything up there, swap them, run, swap street tires back on and cruise home. You should be fine on 17s if 12s is what you're looking for. The trap speed you have is easily good enough for 12s...I've actually seen one person go 11.97 @ 113.5 in an Evo...but that was on a 1.5x 60'...
 
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