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This week I did plugs, straighten my eBay fmic, added a radiator spoiler, fabbed some ghetto ducting, added an intake heat shield, new pads, flushed the brakes, and oil change.

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The flat shift feature in AEM EMS v2 had been working well, but recently it started acting weirdly. Even without the trigger signal from the strain gauge sensor on the shifter, it activates the switch ignition retard and ignition cut at the TPS and engine RPM point.
Since it didn't happen if I turn off the flat shift feature, I knew it was related with it, so I tried a different software and hardware input for the strain gauge sensor and used a totally different assignment route in AEMTuner software but no luck. I overwrote the latest firmware again, no luck. All wires and the strain gauge sensor itself are fine. I started to think maybe the ECU itself is bad but everything is working properly, just except the flat shift feature.
Anyways I opened up the ECU box to check the boards. There was no sign of damage or leaky caps at all.
For the last attempt, I wiped out the firmware ROM. But it requires to run wires to only the switched 12v and ground pins, and must use a serial cable to connect to the laptop. It's kinda PITA.
Conclusion, newly installed the latest firmware after wiping out the ROM worked very well. There is no more erratic acting with the flat shift feature. I will see if it would keep working well.
 
Pulled my broken dash out and began refurbishing all the HVAC boxes in preparation for the new dash to go in. All the foam throughout the system that seals the ducts and the air doors has turned to dust with age. Will all be like brand new soon.

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Customized the cold air intake of a 00 to 05 eclipse 2.4 to fit my 1999 2.4 spyder. Had to buy the 3.75 to 2.75 coupler and have 50 bucks in it. Not bad, And hope it helps get some of that cold air. I used the air duck of the side mount intercooler and cut it to fit the air filter on the side.looks and fits great. 🤘🤘

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Recap of the electrical work done throughout the car:


- Shift gear indicator wiring and programing

- Fans wiring splice 4-2 and can be turned on from dash with stock start when hot

- Fuel pump rewired

- Start button wired (with light when switch is on 2nd position)

- Exhaust cut-out wired

- Voltage, interior temp, exterior temp and heater temp wired

- ABS ON/OFF switch

- Fans switch

- Armrest box 12v socket relocation + 2x 3A USB

- Trunk 12v socket

- GPS speed indicator on dash

- 5 added gauges (stock water and oil press gauges were removed)

- 2nd key position switched center fusebox

- Fuel injectors resistor pack wired to engine bay (N/A doesn’t have it)

- MAP sensor wired (N/A version doesn’t have it)

- Intercooler water spray with stock rear wiper switch (used all 3 positions for spray intervals - UP nonstop, Touch, and DOWN cycled for each few seconds)

- From whole car been removed around 20m of unused cables

- Under steering wheel repaired all damaged cables, what were not protected and been badly soldered/crimped)

- 3rd switch on the dash i want to use for some kind of enrichmentof the engine for pops, but for now is unused


All changes were made by my hands

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🔥 Custom made downpipe 🔥

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Filled some gaps in the undercoat with new undercoat spray
Drained the oil, which I thought I did last year..
New oil filter + crush washer
Pulled the gears off the old cams. My red loctite went bad so will have to pick up new tomorrow
Then I can get the valve cover back on and start running the belts
 
Built my first turbo manifold

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Built my first turbo manifold

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Very nice job

Customized the cold air intake of a 00 to 05 eclipse 2.4 to fit my 1999 2.4 spyder. Had to buy the 3.75 to 2.75 coupler and have 50 bucks in it. Not bad, And hope it helps get some of that cold air. I used the air duck of the side mount intercooler and cut it to fit the air filter on the side.looks and fits great. 🤘🤘

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Looks really good
 
Took the car up to Peterson’s museum for the Japanese car cruise-in. Great place.

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Did more tuning today. Been tuning it all weekend because I finally decided to listen to everyone and realized how horrible the previous "tune" was that someone was helping me with. I appreciated the help, but man the car ran like crap.

Swapped over to all new maps and everything, tuned it the proper way, made a huge difference.

But, tonight I ran into my first real issue. Starting to run progressively leaner throughout the map each time I drive it, and I've been suspecting a fuel leak at the sending unit. IT happened when I first installed the pump, the fuel line that connects the pump to the sending unit has clamps, and the clamps weren't tight enough. Well, I'm suspecting they came loose somehow, or maybe the hose just ripped. Either way, gonna dig into it more.

I'd appreciate anyone curious/good with tunes popping into my build thread and looking at my latest logs and giving some opinions(in the build thread, not here). Do you think it's fuel pump leaking pressure, or am I just running into the limits of the Aeromotive Stealth 340 on E85?


Edit - as a bonus though, I hit 43lbs/min of flow on only 21lbs of boost. :D Very happy with that. Boost ramps up to 15-16 or so at like 4000rpm, and slowly creeps to 20-21 at 7500rpm. Stoked at those numbers. Gotta figure out the lean/possible fuel issue, and so curious what it does on 30lbs. I think I'm gonna run out of injector though. OMG
 
Finally got enough nerve to do some WOT pulls. Forgot that I didnt have a boost controller so used a .025 lincoln tip and zeroed out all the boost control cells in ECMLink.Appreciate if someone could look at my log . Not sure if I need to make fuel changes based on the low boost pulls or configure for higher boost and do more pulls. Details on my build thread. :)
 
Tried to get the lower perches of the rear Yonaka coil overs over the stud on the knuckle.. neither fit regardless of orientation. They bind up on the bushing where its bevelled. Looks like I'm going to have to use a rotary to widen them out.

This is the second set I've come across that has this issue.

It's not a taper issue, they don't slip over in either orientation. Weird.

It's also not immediately clear, given this now, if the further exposed side of the bushing faces the bolt or the knuckle. I thought that it faced the knuckle (the side of the bushing visible here)
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Finally bit the bullet, got tired of the knock off b&m shifter that I stole from the car I used to manual swap. I went with the Fidanza, as I can take a chance on it and maybe give people a true opinion on it. I'll do a write up about it soon, but honestly my car shifter feels better then ever. Took her out after install and couldn't be happier. Between dsm3dcreations.com's trans gear selector bushing and this, my car feels the best it ever has. Plus side also it comes with a very nice weighted knob that ill use for a bit until I miss my momo ball and swap.

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Yep, had to use a barrel sander on the Dremel to take out a fraction of a mm on both lower yonaka rear perches. Yonakas use two piece bushings, one tapered, one not.

However the tapered bushing must be getting stamped wrong or the coating is too thick because the post runs just shy of 20mm but the half inner bushing diameter is 19.8 at best
The one that's not tapered is fine

And, no, it didn't matter which way you put it on, it always got hung up in the same exact spot


So after a little bit of sanding, then a generous coating of axle grease to prevent premature rust...they're on and snug.

I'd like to regret these at this very second and say I should have went BC but the money I saved got me a spare trans, xfer case, axles, and other misc wear parts.

So we will see. I've never read about issues on these but I can attest that TWO sets in the past 9 months have this problem


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I also indulged a little with a new rad cap
Although I just realized it's 1.3bar and not a 0.9

Will search for a 0.9 but in the meantime my coolant doesn't get hot enough to require a 1.3 anyway so it's non-detrimental at this point.

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Last edited:
Stopped by TRE and spoke with John for a while while he tore into my transmission, always good time and checked out some Rally Art gear stuff from japan, and how things in my tranny work. He speaks I listen and learn, can't wait to watch it being built next week.
 
I also indulged a little with a new rad cap
Although I just realized it's 1.3bar and not a 0.9

Will search for a 0.9 but in the meantime my coolant doesn't get hot enough to require a 1.3 anyway so it's non-detrimental at this point.

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Trade you a stock 6 bolt IM for your cyclone. :p
 
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