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Took my 90 to an SCCA Track Night event once more. My gearbox starting leaking so my day got cut short. May just be an axle seal but my tranny also needs a rebuild since 3>2 downshift usually fights me. Im at one of those push ahead or part out crossroads like so many have faced.

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Took my 90 to an SCCA Track Night event once more. My gearbox starting leaking so my day got cut short. May just be an axle seal but my tranny also needs a rebuild since 3>2 downshift usually fights me. Im at one of those push ahead or part out crossroads like so many have faced.

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I have one of those moments like every month. It'll be alright.

I've got a spare 90 trans here in Pensacola, FL if you ever make a road trip to my neck of the woods.
 
Wired up my Mac valve and fuel pressure sensor Sunday and got them working just need to run vacuum lines for the boost controller. Then change the oil/plugs and it’s party time🤙🏻
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I have been fixing the clear coat on my car, using Poppy's Patina wipe on. Starting with the hood, I tried just wiping it on and was not exactly pleased with the look. Most likely an issue with my technique. Was splotchy and dry right next to a run. So I scuffed it and used a regular paint gun. After a wet sand and a rough buffing job, it looked pretty decent. Good enough for what I'm looking for, so I went and sprayed the rest of the red on the car. Then wet sanded with 1500 and 1st buffing step with a rough pad. The after picture is the first wash, now I will do 2 more round of buffing to get the swirls out.

This was minor color repair, just a scuff and re-clear. I will be repainting the whole car in the future, so this is a temporarily permanent solution. This is also the good side of the car, these pictures make it look real nice. Get too close and you will see cleared over rock chips.. I will show more in my build thread in the next few days.

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Got another batch of parts clear coated, it will be a while before they all get together LOL

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Very nice, what is your process? I am going to be looking to do the same.
 
Day and Night view 😌

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Drove it for a few hours the past few days, working out the kinks. Definitely had to make some cruise/idle changes to VE because I swapped back to stock cams but overall WOT lines up pretty well.

This is my first forged piston setup and running .004 PTW, I noticed what I originally thought was a bottom end knock -- at 400km.
Not the standard loud clacking you get from thoroughly done bearings but still concerned me. It got a bit quieter and I said -- screw it, I'll take it around the block.

So I drove around the residential area at low speed, practically no boost. Just got some revs and heat into it. Maybe 3-4 minutes. Got back to my driveway, the sound was completely gone. Idle oil pressure dropped from 30 to just above 20psi, so it wasn't even super hot oil yet.

Didn't return until the engine fully cooled and a couple days later, same thing.

I've never spun a bearing before but I would assume if it was a bottom end problem like that, a bit of heat in the motor wouldn't make it disappear completely, sound tight as a drum after, and the knock sensor not going crazy. Right?
 
Clearanced my block for R&R aluminum rods

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I changed my valve seals and swapped out the HKS 272s for some Kiggly 272s (the HKS were used and not the best condition) I've read the Kigglys are a better cam. After all put together went for a drive and talon feels a little slower than before but yet to give it a tune which I'm sure will make a diff. I'm not a master mechanic so from start to finish ready to drive took me 9hrs good learning exp.
 
Car has sat for a couple years, before I got around to replacing a bunch of stuff because of a coolant leak. (Including headgasket) Car cranks, but doesn't want to start.

Checked compression... Just over 150 on every cylinder.

Hooked up laptop to verify fuel pump is good, and it hums along nicely. AFPR says ~30.

Coolant temp sensor is reading -74F So I assume that is my issue.
 
Been slowly messing with my trying to get it back together. Started has just getting trans rebuilt but now its snowballed into resealing and replacing gaskets, timing belt and components, and poly mount inserts which was a huge pita. Also brought up another possible issue. The exhaust doesnt seem to want to fit now. Now this is all on a n/t then im eventually going to boost. Just keep running into issues. Typical dsm problems 😂
 
Replaced the 8 HLAs with brand new ones, intake side. Where I thought the sound was coming from.
Still ticks in prolonged low(er) oil pressure or after sitting.
Must be the exhaust side then, or one or more of these Toplines are trash. Damnit.

34C right now, heat wave just barged right in. A/C belt not on.. I'm all sticky.
 
Car has sat for a couple years, before I got around to replacing a bunch of stuff because of a coolant leak. (Including headgasket) Car cranks, but doesn't want to start.

Checked compression... Just over 150 on every cylinder.

Hooked up laptop to verify fuel pump is good, and it hums along nicely. AFPR says ~30.

Coolant temp sensor is reading -74F So I assume that is my issue.
-74 is going to make the ECU dump fuel. You either have a bad sensor or faulty wiring.
 
Got my girdle installed and block filled with Hardblock, one week of cure time and off to the machine shop it goes.

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FYI, a turkey baster fits perfect in the coolant ports on the block

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Got my girdle installed and block filled with Hardblock, one week of cure time and off to the machine shop it goes.

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FYI, a turkey baster fits perfect in the coolant ports on the block

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Are you making an air cooled setup? Why fill the block?
 
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