The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Post a Question

What did you do to your DSM today?

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

curt-s said:
Found my fancy new touch LCD-rpi logging setup is kinda useless during the day because you can't read the LCD in daylight. Damnit.
Also found that the LFIMI6 from rockauto, should anybody order from there, are the same upgraded ones that everywhere else sells. Just FYI. Why did I order from there, you ask? Because it was $15 to ship including taxes/duty and I didn't have to fight with UPS or Fedex or anybody else to get self-clear forms and drive across the city to get them stamped.. and I didn't have to pay an extra $50 to ship on top of that.
Click to expand...

What's an LFIMI6? So curious.


Didn't do anything to the car except drove it the 52 miles one way to work and back for two days straight. One of those days being 90* with almost 100% humidity, ripping 24lbs of boosted pulls and car never overheated once.

Also made a hilariously bad 1/4mi pass in it this morning after my 12 hour shift, and car is officially in the 12's. Read more about it in my build thread but cliff notes is: I did an epic awd burnout instead of a launch, hit rev limiter in first, granny shifted like I had arthritis, and let completely off at the end and coasted to a 12.99. ROFL
 
CrackedDSM said:
What's an LFIMI6? So curious.


Didn't do anything to the car except drove it the 52 miles one way to work and back for two days straight. One of those days being 90* with almost 100% humidity, ripping 24lbs of boosted pulls and car never overheated once.

Also made a hilariously bad 1/4mi pass in it this morning after my 12 hour shift, and car is officially in the 12's. Read more about it in my build thread but cliff notes is: I did an epic awd burnout instead of a launch, hit rev limiter in first, granny shifted like I had arthritis, and let completely off at the end and coasted to a 12.99. ROFL
Click to expand...
Oops. *LIFMI6
Topline's revised HLAs.
 
curt-s said:
Oops. *LIFMI6
Topline's revised HLAs.
Click to expand...


After a deep dive because I'm tempted to replace my lifters because they still tick, I stumbled upon this tool.

JTC Tool #1302

Makes removing and installing your factory lifters a cakewalk without removing the cams or using a prybar. I'm buying one now for when I need it in the future. Lol.
 
US $52.95 USPS Priority Mail International
:rolleyes:

I'd sooner just take the everything apart. I'm nailing timing on first try the last two times I've removed the belt this spring alone LOL
 
curt-s said:
US $52.95 USPS Priority Mail International
:rolleyes:

I'd sooner just take the everything apart. I'm nailing timing on first try the last two times I've removed the belt this spring alone LOL
Click to expand...

Jesus. It was free shipping for me.


There's a CAD file someone posted that scanned/measured the tool if you know anyone that can print it or machine it/laser cut it locally. Isn't Jason Drews in Canada?
 
Didn't get to drive it today but I now have a new oil leak i noticed when I started the car for the third time to pull a log...its behind the crank pulley soooooo off come some belts and the timing cover. It was all going so well but I guess better to find it now than slowly leak towards loosing oil pressure and not even knowing because I would be too giddy over it driving. All I did was add some extra oil to get the dipstick to read at the top notch 🤣
 
Took out the Greddy turbo timer I put in back in 2001....
About a year or two ago I removed the control module from the Python alarm the previous owner had installed. Decided to finally go ahead and take out the rats nest of wiring (thats what it looked like to me anyway) and relays since I was already under the dash to clean things up.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I'm now wondering if my behind the crank pulley leak is simply just an oil leak from the RTV sealing the oil pan. I'm looking and feeling all around but nothing thus far. The only place I feel oil is where the pan bolts to the front case and like I said it seems like a recent leak after I added a little more oil to top it up after having ran the car twice after the rebuild. I'm thinking that it happens once the oil is up to temp, becoming less viscous, and finding a gap in the rtv to seep out because maybe the pan is possibly a little over filled, causing the small but steady leak.

I ordered a new dipstick but I'm tempted to either run the car without the water pump pulley and harmonic balancer to catch the leak in action or just drain some oil, Bolt everything back up and hope for the best that my theory is correct
 
cswindel said:
I'm now wondering if my behind the crank pulley leak is simply just an oil leak from the RTV sealing the oil pan. I'm looking and feeling all around but nothing thus far. The only place I feel oil is where the pan bolts to the front case and like I said it seems like a recent leak after I added a little more oil to top it up after having ran the car twice after the rebuild. I'm thinking that it happens once the oil is up to temp, becoming less viscous, and finding a gap in the rtv to seep out because maybe the pan is possibly a little over filled, causing the small but steady leak.

I ordered a new dipstick but I'm tempted to either run the car without the water pump pulley and harmonic balancer to catch the leak in action or just drain some oil, Bolt everything back up and hope for the best that my theory is correct
Click to expand...
Besides the oil viscosity, if you add oil, that would make the oil level higher and crankshaft would splash more oil.
Also while the engine is running, you are having positive pressure in crankcase, that would push to help the leak on weak seal location.
 
DSMPT said:
Besides the oil viscosity, if you add oil, that would make the oil level higher and crankshaft would splash more oil.
Also while the engine is running, you are having positive pressure in crankcase, that would push to help the leak on weak seal location.
Click to expand...
So it seems like there are a lot of factors that make draining some oil out a likely temporary fix. Enough of a fix to narrow it down and then isolate where the leak is down the road
 
Well i lost a bolt putting the timing cover back on. Even 5 ft-lbs is too much (which i did originally vs. The FSM recommendation of 7.2-8.7!). So just be weary of that cause I pulled the threads out with the bolt...
 
cswindel said:
Well i lost a bolt putting the timing cover back on. Even 5 ft-lbs is too much (which i did originally vs. The FSM recommendation of 7.2-8.7!). So just be weary of that cause I pulled the threads out with the bolt...
Click to expand...
I had to be damaged already
 
AWDGrayBird said:
Got some dry weather and got her washed and took her for a cruise. Found the only sign of body rust on the whole car also. Gonna get it cleaned up before it has a chance to spread.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Click to expand...

i found a little rust too on my 2g 😄 the right time to repair it

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Well even with the oil on the low notch of this questionable dipstick there is still the same small leak once the engine gets to 186F to 200F. I still really feel like its a small break in the RTV of the oil pan. Just really bummed because I want to take the car on its first drive and just see what the leak does after that but I'm apprehensive about that. Hopefully the new OEM dipstick i have coming in can help remedy some questions I still have
 
Pulled off the pulleys and belts in prep for checking and replacing HLAs or rollers

Checked endplay using the same method as the last three times: set up dial indicator, push crank all the way to trans side, zero indicator, push the clutch.

At over 1000km now and it hasn't changed.. .007 +/- a ten thou or two.
Pushed/tapped the crank back to where it started and confirmed 0.

Hurray, I set the thrust bearing properly LOL

Also after 600km not burning a lick of oil. Level hasn't changed at all.

Took delivery of my new X series oil pressure and boost gauges yesterday. Now I'ma do up some wiring this weekend!

Forecast for tomorrow is smoke due to all the forest fires north of us in the province. 15+ thousand already evacuated, one entire town of 5k.
Atmosphere is already so thick with smoke that it was easy to see sun spots before sunset with the naked eye
Of course I broke out the 400mm and took some pics anyway
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Boosted Fabrication
ECM Tuning
ExtremePSI
FIBA Motorsport
Fuel Injector Clinic
Innovation Products
Jacks Transmissions
JNZ Tuning
Kiggly Racing
Morrison Fabrications
Rix Racing
RockAuto
STM Tuned
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top