What did you do to your DSM today?

[curt-s]

This is more of a "what did your DSM do to YOU day"

In the hopes of solving why my audio is so pitiful, I was driven insane by the key reminder beep.

Doesn't appear to have a disablement due to its existence within the ETACS module...

So yeah I'm insane now (because I really do try and do things over and over whilst expecting a different outcome but that's beside the point)

It's a Nakamichi 3020 head unit but using the stock infinity amp which is likely just garbage. I mean, it's nearly 30 years old

 

[stealthee]

I did a quick search

Looks like you can "disable" it

Disabling the terrible key reminder beep

I bet many of you just deal with the ridiculously annoying BEEP BEEP when you open your door with your key in the ignition, but I guarantee not one of you are thankful for this stupid noise, When you need to work under your dash, check fuses, the sound can become deafening, and well I for one...

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[steve]

It's a Nakamichi 3020 head unit but using the stock infinity amp which is likely just garbage. I mean, it's nearly 30 years old

And likely that the speakers are now also garbage if original.

 

[curt-s]

And likely that the speakers are now also garbage if original.

The tweeters, no doubt. The others were replaced before I got it with Kicker 6.5s and 6x9s. Not the greatest speakers in the world but definitely better than stock. 2016-era.
They wired the speakers via the head unit's amplified outputs into the factory harness so both the deck amp and the Infinity amp are driving the same loads. As mismatched as they are, I bet that's not creating an ideal situation.

Figure I'll just grab a Soundstage SS600.4V2 or something (ie. cheap. I don't listen to music much in any car) and run it via the preouts.

 

[ArcticTsi]

Well, after the Talon sitting for another 10 years, I officially did some work on it. Aside from the annual start up and carwash. This is hopefully the start of version 2.0. We'll see how it goes along the way. But, drained the coolant, flushed the system (like 10 times), new hoses, new thermostat, and topped it off with some water wetter. Also changed the hatch struts. Its a start, .

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[SixBolt_16G]

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As nice as this picture turned out, the circumstances are not as nice. I hit a nasty pothole on our cruise today. About 10 miles later, there was a loud banging noise coming from the passenger side and the car was trying to make a hard right, so I let it, right into a drive for some expensive houses. It was better than completely blocking traffic that was going down to one lane ahead due to construction. Was trying to find out what the problem was but was also trying to move the car off to the side so I wasnt completely blocking the drive.

Turns out that hitting that pothole either completely sheared off the top caliper bolt or it had backed itself out, but either way it was complete gone causing the caliper to tilt forward, catch one of the spokes and complete seize the wheel. I was able to jack the car up, take the wheel off, break a small branch off a nearby tree, jam it into the hole for the dustshield and bracket to prevent it from tilting forward, then move the car off to the side.

Big thanks to my wife for calling around to 3 different tow businesses (the first 2 wouldnt tow it because it was too low). Back home in the garage now waiting for me to find another bolt and look for any other damage. So far looks like a little damage to the dustshield, a gouge on the inner side of one of the wheel spokes and ruined the nice metallic orange paint I had on the calipers. ,Not sure how this couldve happened tho. When I put the new calipers on months ago, I had a check list that i verified several times with all the brake and suspension piece that I installed, along with their torque values. Verified it several times in fact and thought i wouldve seen that bolt loose when i had the wheels off last week and was under the car to look at the front sway bar links. Just glad it didnt happen when I was on the expressway or god forbid when I was doing the WOT tuning over the last few weeks. Now im paranoid and have to go back and check everything.

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Edit: Damage i see so far...

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[dsmmario]

I got tired of looking at my disintegrating visors and mounted up a Wink mirror for the next time an attend a track day.

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[SixBolt_16G]

I got tired of looking at my disintegrating visors and mounted up a Wink mirror for the next time an attend a track day.

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Saw a muscle car with that setup when i lived in California and thought about it but forgot about it, how do you like it so far?

 

[dsmmario]

Saw a muscle car with that setup when i lived in California and thought about it but forgot about it, how do you like it so far?

Considering how small our mirrors are and we don’t have blind spot monitoring like newer cars, it’s actually pretty great. You see behind you almost into your peripheral vision. In the future I may fab up a bracket to move it a little farther forward.

 

[Imback]

Being able to drive it to the office is always a +

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[Tycobe]

Picked up some RPF1s for the 1g. Going to do some cleaning before mounting them and setting her down.

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[Bedicine]

Finally got the car running on Haltech R3. Still have a small checklist complete, but she's running and driving on DBW. Couldn't be happier.

How difficult was this, did you delete your fuse box since this unit provides power?

 

[babyviper]

How difficult was this, did you delete your fuse box since this unit provides power?

I kept the fuse box since it provides power for the entire car. Haltech R3 give you 4 HCO 25A outputs and a few other lower amp 12v outputs. I was able to get rid of the fuel pump relay, MFI relay, starter relay, and get rid of the factory cruise control ECU. I also plan on using it to power my gauges and my EDFC controller. Haltech manages the cruise control now. Purchasing a separate PDM along with some solid state fuses will get you there because you need a lot more outputs. You'll also have to switch your headlights to LED and get some radiator fans that draw below 25A the you should be good. I have some more wire cleanup left do and I will post a spreadsheet of the input and output assignment when I'm done on the vehicle build journal.

 

[Bedicine]

I kept the fuse box since it provides power for the entire car. Haltech R3 give you 4 HCO 25A outputs and a few other lower amp 12v outputs. I was able to get rid of the fuel pump relay, MFI relay, starter relay, and get rid of the factory cruise control ECU. I also plan on using it to power my gauges and my EDFC controller. Haltech manages the cruise control now. Purchasing a separate PDM along with some solid state fuses will get you there because you need a lot more outputs. You'll also have to switch your headlights to LED and get some radiator fans that draw below 25A the you should be good. I have some more wire cleanup left do and I will post a spreadsheet of the input and output assignment when I'm done on the vehicle build journal.

Appreciate that. Been deciding between the s2 and r3. Just posted a thread about it in the engine management section.

Thank you

 

[CrackedDSM]

Drove it to Dollar General to grab a couple things. I've been dying of sickness, so it was good to get out of the house...but ugh I need to get off my ass and put A/C in this thing already. Florida suuuuuuucks.

 

[pagosa dsm]

Drove it to Dollar General to grab a couple things. I've been dying of sickness, so it was good to get out of the house...but ugh I need to get off my ass and put A/C in this thing already. Florida suuuuuuucks.

had frost on the windshield this morning at 9500 feet.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Chasing a suspected boost leak today. This hose coming off my J-pipe for boost control is only like 4 months old. Not sure what happened here, but glad its only a hose because it initially sounded like it was under my head shield. I was ready to throw a fit if it was something more serious with luck ive been having lately. Now I have to find something to do with all of this built up anger that wasnt needed.

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[92AWDHX40]

Working in wiring and finishing up the trunk, prepping for tranny in a day or two install. Installed jl components with my ppi art series amps

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[curt-s]

This weekend I wired up an amp for component speakers (Kicker DSC650 and DSC6930), put a new spring combo in the ewg (blue and yellow, 16psi), and switched to a distribution block off the battery instead of discrete inline fuses on their own leads. I called it enough at 4...

Is it cleaner? Sure.
Is it easier to plumb? FK no.

What I DID do is use my 1G battery box that I still had from my last DSM, modified it slightly, performed some plastic welding to fix a crack, and attached a 6x block using the M4 bolts I had to order to help put the ewg back together. I couldn't compress it in the spot its in, so I use long bolts to get it started, a couple fat zip ties to help as a comealong, and got it nicely back together.

Now I have something bespoke from my old car on my new car.

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Next time I mess with this I'm relocating the battery to the trunk.

 

[curt-s]

Took it for a drive to bring it by the shop that did the engine work (and fixed Shop A's B.S.)

So, disconnecting the actuator on the Cyclone and moving to a stiffer set of springs in the wastegate didn't do the trick.

Anything above 20psi between 4-5K RPM in 3rd gear and above and the boost pressure starts oscillating and you can hear the ffffppfpfpfpfpfp out of the intake. I say intake because you can clearly hear it sucking air -- the 8" filter is pretty loud, but actually used to even louder with the 16g.
Bounces about 2psi. (I realize my AFRs were tanking rich on this one, pretty surprising actually).

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Second gear is fine, but it's only slightly higher RPM

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I'm at a bit of a loss.

It's possible that a slight oscillation would affect the wastegate.. but I wouldn't think it would oscillate with a period of 100-200ms like that.
There would be a lot more dampening.

4K RPM should be able to do 20psi on a stock cam/valve size all day, even with a 68HTAv3. That only flows a bit more than a 16g down there, and 29lb/min is pretty a small number.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Installled harness connected to link, hooked up gauges, finished interior 99 percent Worked in engine bay, painted axles, after por 15 on it. Tommorow pick up transmission form tre, install, put axles on adn xfer case.

 

[jdxnc]

Took it for a drive to bring it by the shop that did the engine work (and fixed Shop A's B.S.)

So, disconnecting the actuator on the Cyclone and moving to a stiffer set of springs in the wastegate didn't do the trick.

Anything above 20psi between 4-5K RPM in 3rd gear and above and the boost pressure starts oscillating and you can hear the ffffppfpfpfpfpfp out of the intake. I say intake because you can clearly hear it sucking air -- the 8" filter is pretty loud, but actually used to even louder with the 16g.
Bounces about 2psi. (I realize my AFRs were tanking rich on this one, pretty surprising actually).

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Second gear is fine, but it's only slightly higher RPM

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I'm at a bit of a loss.

It's possible that a slight oscillation would affect the wastegate.. but I wouldn't think it would oscillate with a period of 100-200ms like that.
There would be a lot more dampening.

4K RPM should be able to do 20psi on a stock cam/valve size all day, even with a 68HTAv3. That only flows a bit more than a 16g down there, and 29lb/min is pretty a small number.

What solenoid are you using for boost control? There's a possibility it doesn't like the frequency that Ecmlink pulses at. I'd be curious to see if it does it on WG spring only without the controller.

 

[curt-s]

What solenoid are you using for boost control? There's a possibility it doesn't like the frequency that Ecmlink pulses at. I'd be curious to see if it does it on WG spring only without the controller.

As far as I'm aware this is the much vaunted IR solenoid

If I go spring only it'll be 15psi, unless I load it up with 23psi+ of springs.. then I'm pretty sure I have no chance of getting it closed

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I'm going to try something a little more .. obscure .. just because it's known to make the stock solenoid operate better -- put a restrictor in the line. I shouldn't need to do this, I wouldn't think, but hell.. what's the harm.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I added a CAN bus device, and got the mapping and dashboard working.

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[dsmmario]

Took it for a drive to bring it by the shop that did the engine work (and fixed Shop A's B.S.)

So, disconnecting the actuator on the Cyclone and moving to a stiffer set of springs in the wastegate didn't do the trick.

Anything above 20psi between 4-5K RPM in 3rd gear and above and the boost pressure starts oscillating and you can hear the ffffppfpfpfpfpfp out of the intake. I say intake because you can clearly hear it sucking air -- the 8" filter is pretty loud, but actually used to even louder with the 16g.
Bounces about 2psi. (I realize my AFRs were tanking rich on this one, pretty surprising actually).

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Second gear is fine, but it's only slightly higher RPM

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I'm at a bit of a loss.

It's possible that a slight oscillation would affect the wastegate.. but I wouldn't think it would oscillate with a period of 100-200ms like that.
There would be a lot more dampening.

4K RPM should be able to do 20psi on a stock cam/valve size all day, even with a 68HTAv3. That only flows a bit more than a 16g down there, and 29lb/min is pretty a small number.

It could be the seal on the cyclone shaft. I tried putting one and was hearing a weird intake noise and the car idled terribly so I went back to stock. Did you boost leak test?