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For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

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Just took delivery of some OE-style (Anchor, Westar) engine mounts and some suspension bits on closeout. No big deal but I'm excited to ditch the poly mounts next spring.

Screwed around a bit with Microsoft copilot asking how to do various DSM things and it looks like it basically uses dsmtuners as it's reference point for learning.
Skynet is an active user here, just warning you all.

Hmmm... Wipes out humanity...but can fix my DSM.... 🤔
 
It got up to a roasty toasty 44 degree today, so I fixed half my hanging idle problem by swapping out the ncc throttle cable. So now I can drive around town just fine with normal cruising, but as soon as i hit boost, the rpms sky rocket after I step on the clutch and off the gas, then drops like 2 seconds later. In addition to the throttle cable causing issues. Some half-assed research makes me suspect that my wastegate flapper might be sticking closed and contributing to the problem too.
 
I drove around for an hour for miles on the motor.
 
Trying to remember how this brake line i routed, cause i cant figure it out. And removing green foliatec paint, going Silver paint ,do anyone know where to buy braided steel brake lines ?
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Putting together the spare parts I have kept and making a list. Because some are missing when I moved or got in different boxes, sometimes I even don't remember what spare parts I have kept.
Found some have the old Mitsubishi label from the early 1990s to the early 2000s.
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On stands, 4 wheels off, Removed the front bumper - so I could measure the oil cooler to replace it and the old hoses.
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This.

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Got the Outlander brake upgrade done on the front, and new Z26 Powerstop kit for the rear to match the fronts. Haven't floored the brakes yet, but half-3/4 of the pedal with moderate force stops this thing in a hurry. Crazy good.

Also found out FWD calipers bolt up and work fine for the AWD, just need a couple tweaks. One of which is a copper crush washer under the braided brake lines because FWD rears use a banjo bolt apparently, and other is using an AWD e-brake bracket bolted on the opposite side of the caliper so you can use your AWD e-brake cable. It'll fight you getting on there though, be prepared.

Now that I know the FWD calipers work, gonna go ahead and just order two new ones so I have four brand new calipers on the car. Sure the wife is gonna be thrilled at being the brake pedal pusher downer for the third time.
 

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Well I had planned to buy the Boosted Fab engine cart but when I look at it, it holds the engine perfectly upright, which is not how it sits in the car and not what I needed. So over the last 2 nights I built my own cart that holds it at the correct angle so I can drop the motor/trans combo out the bottom of the car thanks to my new lift.

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Installed some awful looking LED headlights. They work great though.

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Got Kiggly alt under drive pulley on my Saturn alternator.

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Snagged a new Vibrant catch can that I can actually mount.
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Re-pinned/terminated COP and Crank sensor connector since they were failing.
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Took the car to work the next day and saw 51 psi 😬 and a little holiday photoshoot in the parking lot.

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Installed some awful looking LED headlights. They work great though.

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Got Kiggly alt under drive pulley on my Saturn alternator.

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Snagged a new Vibrant catch can that I can actually mount.
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Re-pinned/terminated COP and Crank sensor connector since they were failing.
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Took the car to work the next day and saw 51 psi 😬 and a little holiday photoshoot in the parking lot.

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Where did you buy the led headlights ? I need them 😍
 
Oil cooler mounted, remote filter mounted. The right side ear off the bottom needs to be removed but after that the bumper should fit. Realized that my trans cooler on the other side needs to go to the rear so I can run a true cold air intake to the other bumper cutout.

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Been tidying up my wire routing and reinstalling parts of the interior. Before I reinstall the dash I wanted to be sure this heater core isn't leaking. I've pressure tested the car a couple times for like 30 min with no noticeable pressure loss...

But I have been topping up the coolant everytime.

I figured I'd test it overnight. 15psi and it dropped to ~12psi after like 8 hours. I figure the tool may be leaking a bit, except for the tiny amount of coolant dripping from ducts in car. I think it's too much to be residual from the original leak in the heater box.

Time to pull the new heater core. 🤦

I may just try to solder the original core that split at the solder joint between copper, and aluminum??

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Did you Fab that cool engine cradle Jason? That is Bad Ass!!! :cool::thumb:
 
I need to build one also. I'll go back and see if I can tell what you made it out of. Looks Hella easy to install the power train with ONE MAN!
 
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