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Drove this temperamental PITA 90's s**tbox to work and had a blast. I pulled my (probably a knockoff) SSQV IV off in order to put the (definitely authentic) OG HKS SSQV Gen 1 back on it because I just haven't been happy with the SSQV IV. Pleased to report that this Gen 1 SSQV is incredible. Has that authentic piercing SSQV sound under all conditions(part throttle and wot), and just totally enjoyable.

She is definitely not wanting to idle anymore though. With how much has changed, I probably am gonna have to redo the tune at idle and stuff, but otherwise the drive went great. Also pleased to report that the heater in the Talon works phenomenally, and doesn't leak. Both of those things I was worried about. Lol.

Since the intake manifold is off on my 2g, I decided to replace the brake booster hose by using a Kynar/Viton check valve.
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Can you link us to the part number you used? I'd like to do this myself but don't wanna have to spend money for an Evo unit that's "cut to fit".
 
Can you link us to the part number you used? I'd like to do this myself but don't wanna have to spend money for an Evo unit that's "cut to f
I think the one I was buying has gone but you can easily find on eBay, Amazon or google. Just search with "Kynar/Viton one-way check valve". The one I used is with 3/8 barb. Not exactly the same size as OEM but it's close. I have done this on my 1g about 10 years ago and still working.
I use those on my pcv valves too
Yes, that's the one. I was using this valve as a PCV valve replacement. I just used a left-over from when I had a shop.
 
I think the one I was buying has gone but you can easily find on eBay, Amazon or google. Just search with "Kynar/Viton one-way check valve". The one I used is with 3/8 barb. Not exactly the same size as OEM but it's close. I have done this on my 1g about 10 years ago and still working.

Yes, that's the one. I was using this valve as a PCV valve replacement. I just used a left-over from when I had a shop.

The thing that intimidates me is a lot of forum posts were saying crack open pressure and stuff matters so the sheer amount of variations is overwhelming.
 
I think the one I was buying has gone but you can easily find on eBay, Amazon or google. Just search with "Kynar/Viton one-way check valve". The one I used is with 3/8 barb. Not exactly the same size as OEM but it's close. I have done this on my 1g about 10 years ago and still working.

Yes, that's the one. I was using this valve as a PCV valve replacement. I just used a left-over from when I had a shop.
I usually by 5 or so at a time.. good for boost management


The thing that intimidates me is a lot of forum posts were saying crack open pressure and stuff matters so the sheer amount of variations is overwhelming.
These are the ones you want... unless you go over 50 pounds boost

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The thing that intimidates me is a lot of forum posts were saying crack open pressure and stuff matters so the sheer amount of variations is overwhelming.
These are the ones you want... unless you go over 50 pounds boost

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These are the ones you want... unless you go over 50 pounds boost

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They say never say never, but I will never go above 50lbs of boost. Lol. Appreciate it!
 
I usually by 5 or so at a time.. good for boost management

Me too. I found a bag of those valves in storage. I see it still has 4~5 valves left.

These are the ones you want... unless you go over 50 pounds boost

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They say never say never, but I will never go above 50lbs of boost. Lol. Appreciate it!
I ran a couple of times with 50 pounds of boost and many times with 40+ pounds, it was fine in my case.
 
Battery relocation almost finished and got the Ohm harness hooked up. Just need to get some "break in" oil (probably just going to use conventional 10w-30 since everything is pretty much used) and transmission oil (probably get some redline stuff).

Then need to drop the gas tank and clean it and route the fuel pumps. Good stuff happening
 
Drove it to work. Also ordered some of the Kynar check valves listed above for my brake booster hose and the PCV system.


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I have used the Nylon check valves on the PCV and Brake Booster lines and they work great. I did crack one, I suppose due to heat, so I went to a metal unit. I still have a couple plastic valves and I think a couple spare metal ones like these....Just FYI for all.

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Drove it to work. Also ordered some of the Kynar check valves listed above for my brake booster hose and the PCV system.


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You may want to go with what Marty suggests or something similar as I had 2 of those Kynar check valves hang up on the booster hose causing the pedal to go hard losing power assist. Not fun on a spirited mountain rip...or in town for that matter.
 
Does the stock hose not have a check valve in place? I have to take a look at mine.
As Steve mentioned that it's built-in inside the hose at the booster side. You can see where it's slightly thicker.
Usually the check valve wouldn't go bad, but the inner layer of hose gets hardened when it's old, it gets like brittle plastic. So once you remove it, if the hose is old enough, sometimes it wouldn't seal well again or sometimes gets cracked and broken. It would require something to seal better when return the hose, like Stapl3 mentioned above that using RTV.

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Was it as big of a nightmare as it looked?
Yes. Pull out every bracket around the HVAC, and remove lower ducts. There is 1 or 2 screws holding them together in a difficult to reach location. Loosen main harness zip ties, and push heater box down, and pull back.

Hopefully I have enough video footage to figure out where everything goes. I have labelled baggies of screws all over the garage.

At least now I can clean up the aftermarket gauge wiring runs, keeping it with the main harness.
 
Installed new rockauto heater core. I couldn't get it to fit with the plastic bracket that bolts it to the heater box. I pulled both gaskets off the bracket and put them loosely on inlet/outlet pipes to protect them from the firewall. I did have to gently bend the pipes a bit to get them through the firewall. Looks like factory from engine side.

Hooked up coolant lines and filled engine with coolant. Used my pressure tester at ~15.5 psi and had no noticeable drop in pressure after 30min. Ready to reinstall the interior. 🤪

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Just took delivery of some OE-style (Anchor, Westar) engine mounts and some suspension bits on closeout. No big deal but I'm excited to ditch the poly mounts next spring.

Screwed around a bit with Microsoft copilot asking how to do various DSM things and it looks like it basically uses dsmtuners as it's reference point for learning.
Skynet is an active user here, just warning you all.
 
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