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That's where it sits after being validated with a TDC gauge? eep. Unless it's our timing covers that are wrong?! *conspiracy*

You reminded me to paint my degree markings on the lower cover, though.. LOL
I verified mine across cams and sprockets with oem 1st while motor was out.... so its the fluidampr itself... just mark accordingly.
 
Finally got my Carbonetics hood installed. Worth the wait!

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I verified mine across cams and sprockets with oem 1st while motor was out.... so its the fluidampr itself... just mark accordingly.
Verified against oem, ok. That's good; decking head block changes physical timing the more you do it but you have a control here
So I resume my previous.. yikes. I wonder how many checked like you did in the past, or if this is a new problem with old (but newer) stock
 
Verified against oem, ok. That's good; decking head block changes physical timing the more you do it but you have a control here
So I resume my previous.. yikes. I wonder how many checked like you did in the past, or if this is a new problem with old (but newer) stock
Also for your reference I did a jigged line up so you can see the notch differences... my thread is thorough... but fluidampr didnt seem to care. Just check and mark correctly

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I was just checking against the crank and camshaft timing marks but the Unorthodox Racing crank pulley lined up just fine and that's an undersized pulley. I verified TDC of the crank mark while I had the head off prior
 
Restored my A pillar to factory instead of the 3 pod deal
Test fitted my new gauge solution
Still need to sand and make the upper shell an bit prettier, then prime with build primer, sand, then paint.. but so far it's coming out not too bad.
It might look like it but it actually doesn't interfere with either tach or speedo visibility unless you're slouching in the seat.

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Finishing touches on putting all the stock* parts in the Talon for the beginning of its resurrection. Needs an oil line for the turbo (arriving this afternoon), then I’ll put that radiator hose back on, drain the 10 year old gas from the tank (what’s the best way to do that in this car?) and put a battery in it. Then we see if she’ll roar to life. (*it does have a fluidyne radiator and slim fans, plus some fat aftermarket tailpipe)

Please ignore the gaping front bumper, eventually gonna put my 12x24x4 FMIC back in there.

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Second antifreeze leak was the same issue as the first... Not tightening the clamp enough. 🙄

Bought a 90 degree coupler and a 90 degree 2.5" stainless pipe section from Amazon that turned ou to be a perfect fit to fix my intercooler/bumper problem. The CX Racing intercooler piping extends too far horizontally to the drivers side when used with the ETS street intercooler. Bumper fits much better with the immediate 90 degree turn.

Forgot to take pictures cause I was rushing to get a cruise in this morning and Im not jackin gup this car or taking this bumper off again. 🙃
 
Mated my trans to the new(er) motor. It didn't just "fall into place" but.....it's on now!
It's been to dam HOT 🔥 here, 100* or close for the last week. Today we had a small break and it's just 85*. More 100's coming this next week all week so I'm glad I got this accomplished. Thanks for your help son! ❤️
Y A Y :thumb: :thumb::thumb:

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Swapped out the 75a Alternator for a 90a model. Definitely made a difference in voltage drop. Holds steady 14's at idle, and only drops to mid-high 13's during WOT. Very pleased. Might upgrade the B+ terminal wire to a 2 gauge wire like I see people recommend.
 
Applied some heat and a gentle twisting to get my side skirt to hug the rear quarter again. Boy was it out, to the point where POs were filling behind with some sort of adhesive that never worked because the skirt was dirty AF.
Had to make some drastic adjustments to my upper steering column shell gauge mount because I misjudged how much space wideband gauge bezels take up. Going to need a couple more days worth of work but still hopeful it will turn out ok.
 
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Flipped on the kill switch, cracked open a beer, synched my phone and jammed some Candlebox “Far Behind” as I sat and thought about how bad ass my car is and how awesome I am.
 

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Shattered a bunch of MB696120 "replacements" because theyre complete crap.

Going to try a Mitsu dealership tomorrow to see if I can get local replacements otherwise they're $3+extras each from the US. boo.
 
Did a boost leak test found leaks, deciding to buy a air compress for stuff
TIL you can own a dsm and not an air compressor.

Gave my upper steering column shell gauge mount some filler and love, then a lot of coats of sandable primer. Will sand it down tomorrow and throw on some paint tomorrow as I've had enough sanding for today.

Picked up my short block stuff today from the shop. Build begins.

Will drop off my head parts next week after I pick them up from North Dakota later this week. Gonna spend some time in Fargo, it's been a long time since last.

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Not my car but a friends. Im pulling it all apart underneath to restore it all as its got a bit of corrosion from the garage its stored in ( mostly due to lack of air flow ) but thats being sorted to allow a fan inside to circulate air more and pull moisture out the air.


Its ALL being stripped back, re bushed and whats corroded will be made out of stainless and all non critical loading bolts will be stainless (black coating) and all other loading bolts will be a 10.9 but in geomet coating to last a very long time. Its a heck of a resto but worth it for him as its a 1 owner car from new when he lived in NYC! Everything else is immaculate! So the underside has to be also.

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Made my first order (well, attempt, so far) with Amayama today. How exciting.

Side skirt fasteners. Local dealership wanted over $5 each for them. Yeah, no. Even if it costs me nearly the same after shipping, it's the principle of the thing. I don't need them for a while anyway.
 
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