curt-s
Supporting Member
- 3,520
- 2,359
- Dec 21, 2008
-
Winnipeg,
MB, Canada
When I get home i will bring out my new white box ones out and then grab some old oem mitsu supplied ones.
On my last timing for my 1G talon i had NTN for tensioner pully and idler and BS were GMB.
Koyo are brown seals.
NTN are blue seals.
GMB are green seals.
Others can be the same or similar of course but i make sure the names on it.
Here you can see the 2 pullys. I cannot say if GMB is made in different locations or not. I have had genuine kits come in and koyo and ntn in the past sometimes mixed. But thats what they try to lean towards. White box just happens to include GMB and no other versions after that i have found or seen.You must be logged in to view this image or video.You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Gates i wont trust at all. To many horror stories on pully seals blowing out. Only thing on gates i trust is blue belts and aux belts, they cheapend the pullys(china) and waterpumps now suck. So i never use them now for anything. I even get customers to avoid them to excluding the mentioned parts that are good
Koyo came off the 6bolt this 97 came for idler and NTN for tensioner pulleys.
My NIB replacements are the same.
One of these days I might come across a GMB but I'm still a tad suspect one you buy as an OEM part and comes in a Mitsu box is the exact same part as the GMB you buy from a kit or rockauto. It could be two different grades; one designed not to come back under vehicle warranty because it's meant as an OEM part, the other as a low/mid grade general replacement they can blame failure on installer.
When it comes to timing, I feel better that it comes in a Mitsu box, as it should mean it meets the specs. It could be the difference behind a $100 GMB vs a $30 GMB. Same manufacturer, different tolerances. Or it could be because of the Mitsu name on the box and they're all the same price.
It's a worthwhile debate

. I can't wait to drive it again. Atp I should just need to change fluids, buy a new battery, check for leaks and get ecmlink setup for the new injectors and speed density. Then I can start getting to the tuning. 
