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When I get home i will bring out my new white box ones out and then grab some old oem mitsu supplied ones.

On my last timing for my 1G talon i had NTN for tensioner pully and idler and BS were GMB.

Koyo are brown seals.
NTN are blue seals.
GMB are green seals.

Others can be the same or similar of course but i make sure the names on it.

Here you can see the 2 pullys. I cannot say if GMB is made in different locations or not. I have had genuine kits come in and koyo and ntn in the past sometimes mixed. But thats what they try to lean towards. White box just happens to include GMB and no other versions after that i have found or seen.
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Gates i wont trust at all. To many horror stories on pully seals blowing out. Only thing on gates i trust is blue belts and aux belts
LOL
, they cheapend the pullys(china) and waterpumps now suck. So i never use them now for anything. I even get customers to avoid them to excluding the mentioned parts that are good

Koyo came off the 6bolt this 97 came for idler and NTN for tensioner pulleys.

My NIB replacements are the same.

One of these days I might come across a GMB but I'm still a tad suspect one you buy as an OEM part and comes in a Mitsu box is the exact same part as the GMB you buy from a kit or rockauto. It could be two different grades; one designed not to come back under vehicle warranty because it's meant as an OEM part, the other as a low/mid grade general replacement they can blame failure on installer.
When it comes to timing, I feel better that it comes in a Mitsu box, as it should mean it meets the specs. It could be the difference behind a $100 GMB vs a $30 GMB. Same manufacturer, different tolerances. Or it could be because of the Mitsu name on the box and they're all the same price.

It's a worthwhile debate
 
Put my Intake Manifold on and some small stuff. Chipping away.....!
I would LOVE it if the car was ALL back together before work on Monday, but I think that is just rushing it so maybe by NEXT weekend :thumb:

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Got the fuel pump rewire done today. Baby steps LOL. I can't wait to drive it again. Atp I should just need to change fluids, buy a new battery, check for leaks and get ecmlink setup for the new injectors and speed density. Then I can start getting to the tuning. 🤞

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Got the exhaust and turbo mounted.
I need to find a plug for the bung that was welded in the TB elbow in the wrong place also. I have my IAT sensor in the intermediate pipe, below the BOV, but need this longer elbow due to the JMF intake being farther out from the engine than my EVO3 sits.

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Going to give it a day for the brake cleaner to break down the crud and give it another go tomorrow. Keep going until nothing else comes out. I'm only up to four cans but I've inhaled two today and it's 32C/90F right now and was 96F I think

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And I found $15.65 in change under the driver seat. The Talon has been emptying my pockets in more ways than one.
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Also mocked up the completed gauge mount solution.
Didn't turn out too bad. I'll admit the finish could be a tad smoother, but overall I'm pretty pleased considering I didn't plan shit.

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Last edited:
Going to give it a day for the brake cleaner to break down the crud and give it another go tomorrow. Keep going until nothing else comes out. I'm only up to four cans but I've inhaled two today and it's 32C/90F right now and was 96F I think

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What are you talking about, it doesn't need any more cleaning. It's so clean here I can't even see it!
 
Gave it a bath and loaded up for racing tomorrow :)

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Tell your 2G I say "Haaaaaay".
 

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@curt-s are you getting alot of debris out if the dead end crank throws??? Keep going until you feel it is all out. Good job :thumb:
 
@curt-s are you getting alot of debris out if the dead end crank throws??? Keep going until you feel it is all out. Good job :thumb:
I can't recall which orientation I had it turned the first time I cleaned. I thought I had it all out the first time.. clearly not.

This time, more came out of #1 and #2 then 3 or 4. The most surprising thing is it released a few more gobs of ARP lube LOL

So I'm just going to give it a go again today and see what I get. A bent brake cleaner can straw is all you really need, I love it. Well, that and WD40 to recoat the journals after the cleaner washes it away. Really humid out here now.
 
I agree 100% with what you are doing. Good job man! It can never be too clean. I am at the same point on a SBC crank, but they don't have deadend throws so I can use a .22 caliber gun cleaner on it. :thumb:
 
I agree 100% with what you are doing. Good job man! It can never be too clean. I am at the same point on a SBC crank, but they don't have deadend throws so I can use a .22 caliber gun cleaner on it. :thumb:
I bought ten cans of brake cleaner specifically for this when they were on sale at Princess Auto (the Canadian version of Harbor Freight) for $3/each. I knew what I was getting into haha
 
I buy BPC at "consumer commodity pricing" (a whole case), but it still costs me more than that, and I have a commercial account. You did the right thing because you NEVER know how much crud is in them.
 
Here is some crud I got out of the SBC Crank, and they are EASY to clean. Anyone that is building their own should always clean things 2-3 times, and be sure or clean some more :)
Too bad you can't clean a 4G63 Crank this way.

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I don't think we use THAT much. We do use E for cleaning some things. It doesn't leave any residue like some BPC now days does. I don't know what changed, but I used to use BPC on a machined surface, and it stayed clean when it dried. Now I have some kind of "leftover" solvent drying but it isn't clear so I have to wipe it with a clean rag. I told both "big" auto parts stores about it and they just told me that the formula had changed. :idontknow:
 
Just a reminder to give your squirters a jiggle before your torque them down and waste a couple crush washers. Thankfully i ordered 12 from Josh instead of just 8.

Had to scavenge one from my other 6bolt.

These were right out of the motor I was running as of two years ago. Could have ejected it at any moment.


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After trying multiple things already, decided to switch out the ECU to see if it solves at least some of the problems I've been having (erratic idle, super slow spool, no boost past 10psi, tach going crazy at 4000 rpm). Still putting it back together but hoping the ECU was the issue.

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Still putting it back together but hoping the ECU was the issue.

What are you trying to show us? The spots in the conformal coating are normal.
The other side is usually more interesting.
 
That looks more like crap in/on the conformal coating.

*edit* damn, steve beat me to it.

That's not to say there is a component failure, though. I'd be potentially swapping ECUs if I had that many things wrong, but that's only because I'm not super familiar with the ECU itself -- they may share a single or set of base components where a failure exists.

If the ECU isn't seeing a proper RPM signal, the entire engine control would be bunk. What have you checked/replaced that reports RPM to the ECU? Just curious -- you've got a lot of experience here I would surmise from your years of DSM service.
 
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