What did you do to your DSM today?

[Galipso]

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I smashed my tie rod end hammering it out because it wouldn’t come off the knuckle… fml

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

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I smashed my tie rod end hammering it out because it wouldn’t come off the knuckle… fml

Gotta whack the actual knuckle. they pop right out

 

[Tiki2777]

Made my first order (well, attempt, so far) with Amayama today. How exciting.

Side skirt fasteners. Local dealership wanted over $5 each for them. Yeah, no. Even if it costs me nearly the same after shipping, it's the principle of the thing. I don't need them for a while anyway.

You're better than I am. I bought the OEM pieces. I also bought knockoffs just to have spares. I still need to finish repainting my fender cap but I am curious how the two pieces differ.

 

[curt-s]

So, cooler head prevailed. I remembered that I had a handle of a bearing/seal driver kit.. which can be used to push the clip in by kind of rocking it along the length.
Takes about a minute per clip with trial and error for angle and pressure. Yes, im only doing one per piston until I have the rods on

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[jdxnc]

Removed the broken Accufab throttle body in preparation to install the new RMR

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[curt-s]

Assembled one rod, put it in.. didn't care for the vertical lines in the cylinder so I pulled it. I think debris still existed in the #2 Napier ring, so out it all came to clean. That's when I got a better look at my bearings. A few of them are chewed up a bit, perhaps from jumping from one shop to another and back again. never noticed it before, oddly.
Either or, not that keen on using them.

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I have a second set and a set of King XP which left me with .0002 less clearance, but I'm at .0026-.0027 anyway on these.

I'll run through a round of plastigauge just to "confirm" I'm still where I need to be tomorrow with either my other set of ACLs or the Kings Everything with napa is order today, arrive tomorrow from the warehouse across town.

 

[curt-s]

So I ended up using some of the shells from my other set of ACLs instead of the Kings just due to the Kings being harder.

Set up with some plastigauge and...

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Torqued to Eagle spec.

So somehow I get .0026 with a dial bore gauge and .0017ish with plastigauge. Only thing I can think of is the rod wasn't pushed up against the journal on the cylinder side, creating a slightly larger gap on one side than the other. For proper clearance checking on any particular side, which is what plastigauge does, there needs to be zero clearance on the opposite side. At least, that's how I understand plastigauge..

Works great for mains because the crankshaft is literally resting on the upper shells. But rods, they can't rest on their own because the rings keep the cylinders locked in the bore and they're sort of just hanging there.

So, basically, you have to make sure you push the rod into the crankshaft to remove the gap between the journal and the upper bearing so that you can get a more precise measurement of the gap between the journal and the cap bearing. Maybe give the piston a gentle tap downwards.

Otherwise, you're somewhere in-between and inconsistent.

Unless I'm thinking about this all wrong

(Ie. Bore gauges and micrometers are better)


Oh, also, don't wear nitrile gloves when you insert pistons into a tapered ring compressor. Or, at the least, don't assume that you pulled your glove out and do check all your digits. I noticed later I was missing a small piece of the thumb.. out came the piston again. It was caught between the ring and the bore.
Just glad I noticed it early. This set of rings has now had two revolutions worth of movement and its still sitting on my bench in a ziplock bag.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I removed my thermostat housing to block assembly (yeah, hoses, sensors....the whole thing) to put RTV on the NEW gasket that was seeping after 2 days and I hadn't even tried to spin the motor yet. That's done and plugs are pulled for easy spinning. I also popped the hatch so I can get the FP removed and suck out all of the OLD E85 and put 5 new gallons in for a 1st start. It's coming soon (I hope, crossing fingers) , just not tonite.
Little shit but easy to forget one single thing.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

Slapped in a new air filter , a black isc , and a new coolant temp sensor and of course its raining now oh well , battery needs a charge from sitting

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[jdxnc]

Pulled the intake manifold to install the new RMR 90mm throttle body. Had to open up the port from 75mm to 90mm. In case anyone doesn't know, you can stack hole saws to use as a pilot.

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[DreamChaser7]

Pulled the intake manifold to install the new RMR 90mm throttle body. Had to open up the port from 75mm to 90mm. In case anyone doesn't know, you can stack hole saws to use as a pilot.

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Holy crap I never thought of that!

 

[JLCustomizing]

Working on doing some light plastic repair while the dash is out. Removing wiring as it’s been a hack job and getting ready to source some new harnesses so I can keep working forward.

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[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Last weekend was a bit packed with life stuff so never had time to work on the friends restoration 1G Talon. But this weekend was full on!

Sat went in and started to paint some parts. This is now coated in the amazing undercoating. Its amazing stuff and i used it on alot of my 2G when fixing corrosion etc. small parts but i have batches to do and not enough room so will be done in waves.


Sunday (today as posted) I managed to remove ALL the front end fully now! Nothing is left on. Everything was nice and easy to remove. Im so glad alot of this is only surface and not internal corroded! Its been a pleasure removing all the hardware on the chassis. A few ztubborn and the M6 as always sucks and hate why they used a small bolt and super long threads!!! Madness but thankfully only 3 m6 bolts snapped and fixable oh and 1 M8.

I should be receiving the bigger parts frim blasting this week and then i will get those painted and dropping the front frame and arb off as the last batch.

Also next sunday is rear bumper removal day ( i know MORE M6 bolts ) this is so we can remove the rear crash bar which has corrosion so will be blasted and also coated.

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[curt-s]

Working on doing some light plastic repair while the dash is out. Removing wiring as it’s been a hack job and getting ready to source some new harnesses so I can keep working forward.

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One thing I found with the 2g dash is nearly any weight at all, even from a gauge, will leave an ugly dent in the surface. I'm hoping yours is protected from such as it's upside down resting on its own foam padding

 

[curt-s]

So today, we wasted over 3 hours adjusting the squirters only to find that even though we increased their clearance by just over 2mm by bending, it's still not enough to clear Manley pistons at the bottom of their stroke.
My fault for figuring we had what we needed at 2mm and bolted them in, wasting 8 crush washers. Should have checked one first, as I would have had enough left over to readjust them all.
Now I have to see if the dealership can get them in otherwise I'm stuck with USA shipping at $40+ or Amayama for less than half that but up to a month wait.
fffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff

My brother was curious what the weight savings were between the OEM 1g piston/rod combo and what I'm using, Manley 8.5s 85.5mm and standard Eagle H-beams.. for those that are curious, the new setup is about 200g lighter. That's 800g total saved with Manley/Eagles, about a 17% weight drop. Not bad

 

[thebearded1der]

Continued to prepare the new (used) engine for the 1st startup in almost 8 months. Drained and refilled the gear oil and engine oil, using Redline 75w90 and full synthetic Mobil One 10W30. Replaced the following seals/gaskets: Rear main seal, cv axle seals, oil return line, exhaust manifold gasket, throttle body gaskets. I'm probably forgetting a couple, but you get the idea. Reinstalled the radiator and fans. Replaced the front brake pads/rotors. Connected the exhaust to the exhaust manifold, tucked and wrapped/concealed a few wires.

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[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Got some NEW parts in for the Talon Im restoring.

Since its NOT a race car and we are just making alot of the suspension poly to remove the old rubber thats soft part of my work was to go through everything else.

Here is the carrier bearing/propshaft bushes. Since oem is rubber and very soft, race is all alloy and creates noise and NVH theough the chassis I designed mine to be a midway point but being stiffer then oem rubber. This helps keep it NVH compliant but also offer some flex and relief from noise and chassis transfer.

These are MY version which are made from TPU (85A) material. These feature light weight alloy sleeves and for this restoration will be painted black and use a black stainless washer and nut to blend in better.

The owner will love these additions and also like the cross between oem and race.

As you can see the oem ones are in somewhat of a bad shape and utterly soft (to soft infact)

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[DreamChaser7]

Got some NEW parts in for the Talon Im restoring.

Since its NOT a race car and we are just making alot of the suspension poly to remove the old rubber thats soft part of my work was to go through everything else.

Here is the carrier bearing/propshaft bushes. Since oem is rubber and very soft, race is all alloy and creates noise and NVH theough the chassis I designed mine to be a midway point but being stiffer then oem rubber. This helps keep it NVH compliant but also offer some flex and relief from noise and chassis transfer.

These are MY version with are made from TPU (85A) material. These featre light weight alloy sleeves and for this restoration will be lainted black and use a black stainless washer and nut to blend in better.

The owner will love these additions and also like the cross between oem and race.

As you can see the oem ones are in somewhat of a bad shape and utterly soft (to soft infact)

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Yah I might be needing some of those Bobby

 

[Galipso]

Getting ready to pull the motor out. Found some scratches in my cylinder walls. I’m already bored 20 over so hopefully another 20 will smooth it out? Anyone have any piston recommendations for my new cylinder size after it gets machined?

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[curt-s]

Getting ready to pull the motor out. Found some scratches in my cylinder walls. I’m already bored 20 over so hopefully another 20 will smooth it out? Anyone have any piston recommendations for my new cylinder size after it gets machined?

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I'd get each bore measured top to bottom first before you make any decisions.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

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Made another boost leak tester as my buddy has my other one, thought I had a bad vacuume leak , turns out my throttle cable was keeping the throttle body open. No wonder I was idling so high , my base timing was also retarded to the T on my timing cover (put it to 5°) , doing a boost leak test tmmr once the silicone is cured

 

[TuskeeTuner]

After spending several months (usually one day/week at my buddy's shop) of re-wiring my car:
Verified the starting system, clutch pedal safety switch, and new fuel system. RTM Racing lives on through their fuel pump rewire kit installed in my car.
Ohm Racing's starter solenoid pigtail+connector
Jack's Transmission which I'm eagerly awaiting to try out (once I figure out why the reverse lights -LED conversion- stay on with all gears selected).
Hopefully the clutch pedal shaft+new lever lives through an ACT 2100.
Fixed seized up left rear brake caliper with new sleeves, bolts, pads, rotor.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

The only thing that turns on your reverse lights is the reverse switch, mounted on the right hand side of the top of the transmission to turn them on. Do you have the spacer washer on that sensor? It is important. Just a thought.

 

[curt-s]

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Made another boost leak tester as my buddy has my other one, thought I had a bad vacuume leak , turns out my throttle cable was keeping the throttle body open. No wonder I was idling so high , my base timing was also retarded to the T on my timing cover (put it to 5°) , doing a boost leak test tmmr once the silicone is cured

Nice. There's nothing like a tester popping off at 25-30psi during a BLT to really wake you up. Now your weak point will probably be the clamp from tester to compressor housing. Either that, or it'll launch your gauge to the moon
Maybe use a t-bolt as they can get a bit more clamping force. Pauto will have the size you need

 

[DSMxTSi]

Pulled brakes off this past weekend to replace pretty much all brake components and hopefully zero in on a bad whining noise I've been having. She sits most of the time as I periodically get to fixing or upgrading various issues. Left rear is the pic and is the only wheel bearing that is original, so is likely the source of my noise issue. Is this a common problem? Other 3 are all normal.

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