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Nice. There's nothing like a tester popping off at 25-30psi during a BLT to really wake you up. Now your weak point will probably be the clamp from tester to compressor housing. Either that, or it'll launch your gauge to the moon :p
Maybe use a t-bolt as they can get a bit more clamping force. Pauto will have the size you need
^^^ This right here.
 
Nice. There's nothing like a tester popping off at 25-30psi during a BLT to really wake you up. Now your weak point will probably be the clamp from tester to compressor housing. Either that, or it'll launch your gauge to the moon :p
Maybe use a t-bolt as they can get a bit more clamping force. Pauto will have the size you need
Haha 😄 my other tester I went all out on , used a bolt to hold the gauge on with silicone LOL I'm getting it back as it was able to hold 30 psi , this one however is just to catch small leaks above 10 psi as I do not trust it, I gotta come by one of these days and check out the 2g


Side note I fixed my broken tabs on my center console see how it goes

And I also have all the material to prep my car for paint , just need to weld in some patches on the rear fender!

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installed the camshaft back into my sohc head, it's in the process of a rebuild, new valves, seals, etc. Bringing back to the road a 99 Spyder I found in a field two years ago, timing belt special. it has 172k. other than the timing, it just needed some basic clutch stuff and a thermostat!

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This Talon restoraion for my friend is all moving along quite swimmingly!
I have alot of the big parts back from blasters that I personally could not do so that was good.

1 quick OEM weld fix as it seems they ran out of gas or moved to far away? But simple fix, this was the rear boomerang subframe itself. Only part was this. Cut out rhe holes and re welded again to be smooth.


Managed to get ALOT coated today and then some more blasted and painted! Was a heck of a day but got through it nicely!

A few engine bay parts were not looking so nice and smooth anymore and he liked what I did to my personal talon and its light clean up so he wanted this on his but in a gloss like oem was ONCE haha.

I then finished on the driveshafts. After covering the sensitive parts i blasted the corroded areas and main shaft, they I coated the shaft and re painted the cups and cv joints back to green. Its slightly brighter then oem green but not by much. I used a new cup i had and its about 1 shade brighter but is good enough and will look just as oem underneath.


I must say although this is a MASSIVE TASK! And i mean mega mega massive! Its very nice to see it come together and look so damn nice!

Next up tomorrow is a rear bumper removal for the crash bar and also the start of the underside chassis prep, this is to get ready for IT's new undercoating.

Thanks for reading and hope you like the restoration on this 1 owner 1GA talon (aka panda)

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My NEW set of 2150s came in, as a surprise today, so I am going to get my Red 90 Talon running and go for a long awaited DRIVE :D:cool::thumb:
Everybody CROSS YOUR FINGERS.....
PLEASE? :)
Marty

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Bent all the squirters as much as I feel they can go, probably about ~2mm clearance from the crankshaft.
Was going to go one by one instead of doing all four at once just to make sure I don't have to readjust even more before I just pitch them altogether.

Then on the first piston I somehow pinched the upper oil control ring somehow in the tapered compressor. It decided to bare its end as I was sliding it in and then proceeded to get caught between the piston and the compressor sleve without being noticed. First tap bent it and jammed everythin up.
Now I have to find out what ring set came with these Manleys and probably have to order an entire set.

I thought I'd make some real progress today and now I'm delayed possibly weeks. Again.

Anybody want to buy a 2gb?
 
Pulled my front seats and touched them up with some leather dye. I'm extremely happy with the results. Took them from a 7/10 to a 9.5/10. I didn't take a ton of photos because I was really trying to get things right but here are a few before and after...

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Rolled my lift out into the driveway so I could deep clean the undercarriage before I install new exhaust.

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Looking pretty spiffy now.

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Washed it. If it wasn't for these triple digits in California I think I would've been motivated to finally pull the head and get it to the machine shop. Soon I hope.

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Washed it. If it wasn't for these triple digits in California I think I would've been motivated to finally pull the head and get it to the machine shop. Soon I hope.

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Looking good.
 
Picked up my head from the machine shop. He apologized for the long delay but i understand it's race season. Hopefully have my short block in 2 weeks or less:pray:. Don't mind the pizza i was warned that i better come home with some food LOL

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head and oil pan are on the block, and the balance belt installed. I had to jb weld a hole in the pan from friction with the exhaust, it should hold for as long as I'll need it. Almost ready to put it back in the spyder.

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Mounted the strut bar which, in turn gave me a place to mount the coil packs....I guess. The car didn't care, so we're good for now. ROFL

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Well what a journey on this 1GA im restoring! The so called FUN part is not fun and its very messy and on a hot day its nasty to do! But needs to be done. But the end results are very worth it!

So leaving off from the last update on this restoration was axles and coated parts. Well mostly 98% of parts are coated now and im awaiting the rear crash bar and FLCA's back to do and thats all the coating done!

I took friday off to prep the underside and then today (sunday) applied the coating. As you can see now its all fully coated and looks uniform and much much better! No half ass oem coating and black then stops and brown junk then white and black again! Super annoying oem was.

Along this path I also designed some more parts as while his are OK they are old and worn and some wearing so wanted to use this time while i have them to make them. Last bits are lower rad bushes to do, yeah the upper covers are oem only but thought its nice to add and with chassis type also for fun LOL.

I re drew some rubbers under the chassis as he is missing one so gotta keep the dirt and water out that gap.


Last 2 pics are of the detail i wanted to do on his tank! I drew the old lettering that was sprayed on and recreated a stencil so i could respray it back on for him! This was not needed but its just a nice oem touch to be as oem as it could be. Not that anyone would see it unless yoir under the chassis. Either way WE know its there and looks great.

The next step is hardware! This has changed since i last spoke about it. Our original plan was geomet but some bolts dont come in m12x1.25 and length is an issue so zinc was needed for some and i decided this was not good enough so I decided im going to send it all away to get my product parts coating apllied but not in black but silver/clear. This is a nickel/zinc hybrid coating as as some of you know lasts forever! Its marine designed so salt has zero effect on it over many hours (thousands infact!!!) so ALL the oem hardware will be getting re plated to be exsctly the same a d the ONLY nuts needing to be replaced are the nyloc nuts so here we will use locking geomet nuts but then we can say its still all oem hardware which will make a huge difference.

After the hardware is back the parts can start to be reinstalled once again!!!!! Now comes the fu part in making this a driveable car once again WOOP WOOP.

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