those who have made 400+ on an EVO III 16g

[jrohner]

I now put my MBC back on, and am hitting 31psi on the low end, and holding around 25psi past peak hp. It looks like that Holset actuator is helping some once I turn the boost up a bunch. Hopefully I can run some decent numbers down the 1/8 mile on Saturday night. I also have three different ideas on things to rig up to hold more boost without just running no wastegate, as I don't want any more transmission/clutch trouble, I want to keep my new cheapo ebay headgasket in one piece, I just don't think it's a good idea to spike 40 some psi, and I don't think my 750 injectors would be up to the task of 500lbs of torque at the wheels.

 

[matthewdesigns]

It looks like that Holset actuator is helping some once I turn the boost up a bunch.

Is this one of the modified WGA's from jusmx141? If no, care to share your source? I'd really like to get my hands on one of those.

 

[jrohner]

I just happened to find a holset actuator on ebay for like 15 bucks or something. I cut the bracket off a 14b actuator and bolted it onto the holset one, then I cut the very end of the 14b rod off and welded it on to the end of the holset arm. It would have been nice to make the rod adjustable, but I just didn't feel like hunting around all over for something else to do the job with; I can always put washers behind the bracket to tighten it if I feel like it (like I did with the stock actuator). I think more tension on it makes it more apt to boost spike anyways.

 

[matthewdesigns]

Thanks. I've been looking for one off and on for a while, but no luck. Adjustable would be great for sure.

I've got my stock actuator shimmed, and it definitely makes my turbo spike. I'm in the middle of trying to find the sweet spot where it will rise and hold, rather than spike and drop. At this point, it is only spiking a few psi, and I'm holding 26-27psi in 3rd gear and 28-29psi in 4th, so I'm not too far from where I want to be.

 

[joyfil2001]

Thanks. I've been looking for one off and on for a while, but no luck. Adjustable would be great for sure.

I've got my stock actuator shimmed, and it definitely makes my turbo spike. I'm in the middle of trying to find the sweet spot where it will rise and hold, rather than spike and drop. At this point, it is only spiking a few psi, and I'm holding 26-27psi in 3rd gear and 28-29psi in 4th, so I'm not too far from where I want to be.

I was forced to part with mine as I had to go external off the manifold because of my current turbo situation. I could sell you mine. Justin did it for me. Shoot me a pm if interested. It worked great for me and I was really happy with it. It held WAY more boost than the MHI actuator.

 

[dsm-onster]

I now put my MBC back on, and am hitting 31psi on the low end, and holding around 25psi past peak hp. It looks like that Holset actuator is helping some once I turn the boost up a bunch. Hopefully I can run some decent numbers down the 1/8 mile on Saturday night. I also have three different ideas on things to rig up to hold more boost without just running no wastegate, as I don't want any more transmission/clutch trouble, I want to keep my new cheapo ebay headgasket in one piece, I just don't think it's a good idea to spike 40 some psi, and I don't think my 750 injectors would be up to the task of 500lbs of torque at the wheels.

Your 750s are ok for whatever the evo3 16g can throw at it . Your injectors are sprayed based on the airflow of the setup. You'll see decent torque, but you'll see it low in the rpm range. The injector pulse window is wider at lower rpms. The pulse width can go very wide at 4500-5000rpms.

 

[jrohner]

I now went with fully ECU controlled boost (Evo ECU), and I can hold whatever boost I want. I was a solid 26-27 until 7 grand where it jumped to 30, and my car started missing like it was only on 2 or 3 cylinders. I'm not bleeding off with the BCS anymore, as that doesn't help at all; I have the BCS between the boost source and the WGA. I actually just switched from a BCS to a FPS, since they have 3 ports, it should work better and more consistent.

Well, I'm off to tune the boost, and try this setup out with the 3-port solenoid.

 

[delta448]

^You should definitely go into more detail about how you did this in the Evo ECU thread.

 

[lccynmbr13]

no tricks.......its really not hard to do it if you have all the right parts. as for the dyno, the gear you do your pull in or if your car spins effects the dyno reading. i made my 445hp pull on the 18g in 4th gear, most people on here or anywhere dyno in 3rd? well my car makes more power in 4th then 3rd so i always dyno in 4th. the other thing is i put coke or whatever i have laying around on the rollers to give the car more traction on the dyno and i have seen this give the car more hp on the dyno....if fwd. a lot of things can hurt your hp or help it, i have played on the dyno testing tons of things to get my car to make that extra power. all in all it doesnt take much but to get it right does, i have made 300hp on a 14b at 15psi, 375hp on a small 16g at 20psi, 400hp on the 18g at 20-22psi and 445hp
at 28-25psi.

Dynoing in 4th gear with a DSM is not the proper way to get your horsepower reading. The ratio between running gear is closest to 1:1 when you're in third, therefore giving you the most accurate horsepower reading. 4th and 5th gear pulls are just to see if you knock in higher load gears.

 

[jrohner]

Dynoing in 4th gear with a DSM is not the proper way to get your horsepower reading. The ratio between running gear is closest to 1:1 when you're in third, therefore giving you the most accurate horsepower reading. 4th and 5th gear pulls are just to see if you knock in higher load gears.

And what's considered "accurate" anyways when it comes to dynoing? Dyno's read differently, even different ones of the same model, but different models and brands read a huge amount different. I don't know what the others base hp off of, but DynoJet based their hp number off the power of a 1985 Yamaha V-Max 1200. They came up with a hp number, and then fudged the math to come up with what the V-Max supposedly had. How does your car's performance compare to an old V-max motorcycle?

 

[lccynmbr13]

And what's considered "accurate" anyways when it comes to dynoing? Dyno's read differently, even different ones of the same model, but different models and brands read a huge amount different. I don't know what the others base hp off of, but DynoJet based their hp number off the power of a 1985 Yamaha V-Max 1200. They came up with a hp number, and then fudged the math to come up with what the V-Max supposedly had. How does your car's performance compare to an old V-max motorcycle?

I mean if you want to really argue about it the best way to put it is if you are to assume that the machine you're using to measure your vehicles wheel horsepower is accurate, and you would like an accurate reading, you SHOULD want your car at 1:1. Anyone can fake a number on the screen by tweaking elemental variables and load scales so if you want to BS do it that way, if you want an assumed "real" number do it the right way.

 

[jrohner]

That's still only close to 1:1 for the actual 3rd gear (we don't even have a 1:1 gear), the other gearing is still far from 1:1. Other than spoolup rpm, the different gear should still produce similar results. The 1:1 trans gearing came about for dynoing because it's supposed to be most efficient. Even the tires you run will have an effect on dyno numbers.

 

[Rob10_99]

Were those rollers wet? sure looked like it.

As for the gear to run in, would you really hit 8k rpm in 4th gear for a tuning run? thats like 140mph....
3rd up to 100 or so depending on your rev limit is what every tune shop Ive seen does.

 

[JayRolla]

Were those rollers wet? sure looked like it.

As for the gear to run in, would you really hit 8k rpm in 4th gear for a tuning run? thats like 140mph....
3rd up to 100 or so depending on your rev limit is what every tune shop Ive seen does.

Tuning in 4th is good because there is more and longer load on the motor which can have more chances of detonating. When I was on pump gas I could have a perfect tune in 3rd. But once I hit 4th I would get knock, since there is a longer chance for it too happen. So I had to richen up a little even though 1-3rd where fine.

 

[Rob10_99]

I see your point of course, but how often do you run up to 150mph? (on your daily)

 

[JayRolla]

I see your point of course, but how often do you run up to 150mph? (on your daily)

Not often or even ever actually. But its still nice to know your tune is dead on and if you do hit that high in 4th that you wont have an issue.

 

[slowgsr]

My DSM only gets dyno'd in 4th. Lots of guys get up to 150+ at the track, so tuning in 3rd wouldn't be practical.

 

[lccynmbr13]

Tuning in 4th is good because there is more and longer load on the motor which can have more chances of detonating. When I was on pump gas I could have a perfect tune in 3rd. But once I hit 4th I would get knock, since there is a longer chance for it too happen. So I had to richen up a little even though 1-3rd where fine.

The simple solution to this is to set the load on the dyno higher. No need to hit 4th gear. A tuning shop that knows how to work their dyno can hit any load cell in virtually any gear by applying more load to the rollers.

 

[Black_Bullet]

I see your point of course, but how often do you run up to 150mph? (on your daily)

I did most of my serious tuning in 4th and took it to 7k with my E316g which was around 125mph. How I tuned was getting as aggressive as I could in 4th and as long as I seen no more than 6 to 8 counts of knock or so in a full all out 4th gear pull then Id be happy with the tune in knowing its nicely to the edge whenever I wanted to wind it all the way out, but yet very safe in the lower gears.

 

[JayRolla]

I did most of my serious tuning in 4th and took it to 7k with my E316g which was around 125mph. How I tuned was getting as aggressive as I could in 4th and as long as I seen no more than 6 to 8 counts of knock or so in a full all out 4th gear pull then Id be happy with the tune in knowing its nicely to the edge whenever I wanted to wind it all the way out, but yet very safe in the lower gears.

Thats what I do, but I keep it under 5 counts of knock or .4* timing pull.

The simple solution to this is to set the load on the dyno higher. No need to hit 4th gear. A tuning shop that knows how to work their dyno can hit any load cell in virtually any gear by applying more load to the rollers.

A lot of people have to street tune so to get that load they have to use 4th gear. We all cant afford to go to the dyno, .

 

[FonZ454]

Thats what I do, but I keep it under 5 counts of knock or .4* timing pull.

That's REALLY fine tuning. I tune for less than 2* of knock, and to some that's even low. Motors will naturally make .4* or .7* (per dsmlink) throughout a pull randomly.

 

[Slippi84]

Tuning can be done in any gear but dyno runs for numbers that are used and respected are done in 3rd gear.

 

[JayRolla]

That's REALLY fine tuning. I tune for less than 2* of knock, and to some that's even low. Motors will naturally make .4* or .7* (per dsmlink) throughout a pull randomly.

Yeap thats the only reason I dont like dsmlinks knock count. I will see 1-2 small blips of .4 timing pull. But if I hook up MMCD that actually reads the knock sum it will say zero. MMCD never has those blips of knock like dsmlink.

 

[boosted86]

If you dont have cams, a smim, a real fmic, and a lot of boost then most people won't see nothing over 350whp on a 16g. I see it almost impossible for a 16g to make more than 400whp without some way of being able to make the motor breath better. In comparison, most evo's that dyno couple hairs over 400whp with 16g's all have hard pipes, cams, meth and badasss tune(and of course other minimal bolt-on's). So why do people magically make 400whp+ with stock intake and cams....BECAUSE THEY LIE. Its the internet, you can say whatever you want to, and still have no proof(with the exceptions of a couple people). Me, I have big plans for my 16g(FP SLEEPER), and even though this turbo is different than the e316g, they use the same frame. I will still have a hard time hitting 400whp, but i do want 450whp+, and until i get the chance to turn the boost up and have some other mods(ie, smim, better cams, better tuning device) then i will just keep dreaming of when i can REALLY say i made XXXwhp on a 16g based turbo.

had to respond to this;
this was done with a stock 1g inatke manifold, and yes STOCK CAMS. secret... there is none. high boost( 28) , decent peak timing ( 22) and fair a/f's .. E85 is what i used to get me there. ... dont say that ppl lie when u have no bases on ## accusations.

 

[boosted86]

heres my sheet.