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those who have made 400+ on an EVO III 16g

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6SL2 is 5mm bigger inducer and exducer. And one less blade in the way. Considering 5h wheel can max out a 45lb/min compressor wheel I would say the wheel should support a 50-55lb compressor wheel. turbine wheels are also rated in lb/min flow but the info is never posted
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6SL2 is 5mm bigger inducer and exducer. And one less blade in the way. Considering 5h wheel can max out a 45lb/min compressor wheel I would say the wheel should support a 50-55lb compressor wheel. turbine wheels are also rated in lb/min flow but the info is never posted
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Yea but can the housing flow 50lb/min?
 

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My turbine housing on the 18g is cracked at the wastegate. It's leaking so bad now that I can't even take it into boost. It sounds like a diesel truck if I try to floor it. I will be calling FP tomorrow to see if they will warranty it for me. Almost makes me wish I just went with a 16g. At least that way I could just get another TD05 housing. Can't find one specific to fit the 6SL-2 anywhere.
 
My turbine housing on the 18g is cracked at the wastegate. It's leaking so bad now that I can't even take it into boost. It sounds like a diesel truck if I try to floor it. I will be calling FP tomorrow to see if they will warranty it for me. Almost makes me wish I just went with a 16g. At least that way I could just get another TD05 housing. Can't find one specific to fit the 6SL-2 anywhere.


Cracks at wastegate gate hole dont effect spool that much. And they dont affect performance at all. You have some other problem. If you have a squeal then you have a boost leak likely at J-pipe.
 
Cracks at wastegate gate hole dont effect spool that much. And they dont affect performance at all. You have some other problem. If you have a squeal then you have a boost leak likely at J-pipe.

So your telling me that the exhaust that is escaping from my wastegate hole isn't hurting performance? Are you serious? The flapper is not sealing correctly. Therefore the exhaust is escaping to soon effecting spool up and how much boost you can make. I can hear the exhaust leaking.
 
Do you have any pics?
78.6543%(joking) of 14bs in use with 6cm housings have cracks in the wastegate area and inlet. I'm assuming you have a dump wastegate? or else the crack would have to go all the way through the turbine housing which is quite inlikely.
But yeah, the cracks that the 6cm housings develop rarely affect performance in any way unless they are pretty severe
 
Do you have any pics?
78.6543%(joking) of 14bs in use with 6cm housings have cracks in the wastegate area and inlet. I'm assuming you have a dump wastegate? or else the crack would have to go all the way through the turbine housing which is quite inlikely.
But yeah, the cracks that the 6cm housings develop rarely affect performance in any way unless they are pretty severe

It's severe. Severe enough to not be able to seal the wastegate fully. It's cracked from the indie all the way to the outside top and bottom. I took it to my performance shop and they said there was no way they could even weld it shut. The point is, if your wastegate isn't sealing, it is affecting performance.
 
go external on the o2 housing, if its craked it wont matter if your wg in on the o2 housing. i have proven this when i made 300hp on a busted ass stock cracked 6m 14b turbo at 15psi.
 
It's severe. Severe enough to not be able to seal the wastegate fully. It's cracked from the indie all the way to the outside top and bottom. I took it to my performance shop and they said there was no way they could even weld it shut. The point is, if your wastegate isn't sealing, it is affecting performance.

If it's that bad, then it will hurt! Without pics is hard to know exactly what your saying.
What caused this? Especially since its on a td06sl2, so it has to be rather new. Have you spoken to FP?
 
If it's that bad, then it will hurt! Without pics is hard to know exactly what your saying.
What caused this? Especially since its on a td06sl2, so it has to be rather new. Have you spoken to FP?

I have no idea what caused it. It's pretty new, not even close to a year old. I haven't spoken to FP yet because of the holiday.
 
I just installed a new headgasket (no more coolant pushing LOL, an evo3 style IM, and an SS tubular o2 housing. Now I'm only holding about 21 psi of boost! I then installed a Holset WGA, and with no boost controller it hits 24 and then still drops to 21. I was hoping to gain a couple psi, not lose 1. I thought the stronger WGA would at least help slightly, but it did nothing except smooth it out a bit (but if I turn it back up to 26-27psi where it was that will probably be the same again). It's pretty lame I can only hold 21, yet when I turned it down to keep my coolant in, it creeped to 20 (last year it would creep to 17). So basically I can either run 20, or 21psi on top end, those are my two choices. :(

We'll see how it runs down the 1/8 mile this Saturday. I better be able to beat last years whole one pass (not even any practice launches on the street), where I did 11.91 @ 93mph w/ a reasonable 1.8 60 ft. I'm taking my subs out this time, so there will be 50 pounds less, and maybe the back seats & trunk cover thing.
 
I just installed a new headgasket (no more coolant pushing LOL, an evo3 style IM, and an SS tubular o2 housing. Now I'm only holding about 21 psi of boost! I then installed a Holset WGA, and with no boost controller it hits 24 and then still drops to 21. I was hoping to gain a couple psi, not lose 1. I thought the stronger WGA would at least help slightly, but it did nothing except smooth it out a bit (but if I turn it back up to 26-27psi where it was that will probably be the same again). It's pretty lame I can only hold 21, yet when I turned it down to keep my coolant in, it creeped to 20 (last year it would creep to 17). So basically I can either run 20, or 21psi on top end, those are my two choices. :(

We'll see how it runs down the 1/8 mile this Saturday. I better be able to beat last years whole one pass (not even any practice launches on the street), where I did 11.91 @ 93mph w/ a reasonable 1.8 60 ft. I'm taking my subs out this time, so there will be 50 pounds less, and maybe the back seats & trunk cover thing.

Only way I found people to actually hold boost on a 16g is to weld the wastegate shut. But this causes it to hold to much boost. Guy here has logs of 39psi till redline on his track car. Took over a year weekly track abuse to finally fail. And I mean a lot of abuse, like 8 hours of track time a day. Turbo was already years old before that also.
 
I'm not making 400+hp on my Evo3 16g, but I'll chime in about holding boost on mine. I have been running low boost (23psi) for a few months now, but I recently got a new clutch installed that doesn't slip, so now I've got the boost turned back up.

Last year I was on the the same exact setup (except for a 2g ex mani then), and would spike to 30+ and fall to 26-27psi. With the addition of an Evo3 ex mani to the setup, I can now hold as much as 29psi.

I have a stock head/cams, stock 2g intake mani, stock unported Evo3 16g with the wastegate shimmed out about 1/4", an Evo3 exhaust manifold (ported at the collector only), tubular/recirc o2, and electric cutout about a foot below the turbo. This combo is not only helping me hold higher boost, but my top end does not drop off any more above 6Krpms...it's flat up top. It used to peak at 6.5K, and drop off pretty badly. Now it peaks a little earlier, at 6Krpms, and drops off only 1-2%.

Jrohner, a couple of thoughts. Are you actually flowing less air than before? It could be that with your existing cams, and new IM and o2 housing, that you are actually not flowing less lb/min, but are seeing less psi thanks to freeing up the path. Have you logged airflow to see how much of a difference there is? If that's not the case, one thing I ran into while resuming high boost operation is that my bov was leaking like a sieve, which was causing me to loose a lot of pressure in the intake track, and I was only able to hold about 20-21psi. I fooled around with it for a few days and finally have it holding now, so you might want to test yours and see if it's leaking.
 
I know by installing the street version of the jmfabrications smim (race version wasn't out yet for 2g's) I went from 13.3-12.5. I also added a 1g tb with the smim, and retuned the car. That was at 20 lbs of boost, on 94 octane, and in my automatic that shifts lower than I'd like.
 
Glenn,
I'm too tired right now to read 5 pages of posts, but I can give you my personal experience on making 400 on a 16g.

We used a dynomite, which is one of the most accurate dyno's out there IMO. I can get you the details on the dynomite later on.

We built a 91 laser FWD to end up making just over 400 (403 I believe) on a dynomite. That translates to somewhere around 430-440 on a dynojet (all conditions being given).

I have a video posted up on my YouTube that I will link later on. (My network at work here blocks YouTube).

In the video, I was the camera guy and I vaguely narrated the mods to the car.

Mentioned here was the SMIM, which I don't think is necessary. A quality 1G manifold will do the trick. I have made well over 600hp on a extruded & honed 1G intake manifold.

Anyway, the mods are basically this.

91 6- Bolt (stock motor minus cams) (head & block)
FP Cams (272's)

EVO III 16G
SBR FMIC kit
Tial 50mm BOV
3" GM MAF
Stock Intake and TB

255lph pump
660 injectors
DSMLink V2
Shell 110 Octane Race Fuel

Shep FWD built tranny
ACT 2600 Street Disc

NGK BPR7ES
Magnicore 8.5mm Wires
Stock Ignition

3" Cat back Exhaust
2.5" Downpipe
DNP Exhaust Manifold
Stock O2 housing

That's about all I can remember right now. Wheels were 17" and accounted for and car weighed. Car was running 24psi. NOt too sure about the tuning numbers but I believe we had about 4* of advance across the tables on Link.

I think 28 psi would have blown the HG sooner or later. Sound like a pray and spray method to me on that one. I ran 420 on dynomite on a stock 7 bolt on running 24 psi. That was a 54 trim Frank 3 turbo (with supporting mods)

Like I said I'll link the video on my youtube page when I get out of work tonight.
 
Here you go:

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I'm not making 400+hp on my Evo3 16g, but I'll chime in about holding boost on mine. I have been running low boost (23psi) for a few months now, but I recently got a new clutch installed that doesn't slip, so now I've got the boost turned back up.

Last year I was on the the same exact setup (except for a 2g ex mani then), and would spike to 30+ and fall to 26-27psi. With the addition of an Evo3 ex mani to the setup, I can now hold as much as 29psi.

I have a stock head/cams, stock 2g intake mani, stock unported Evo3 16g with the wastegate shimmed out about 1/4", an Evo3 exhaust manifold (ported at the collector only), tubular/recirc o2, and electric cutout about a foot below the turbo. This combo is not only helping me hold higher boost, but my top end does not drop off any more above 6Krpms...it's flat up top. It used to peak at 6.5K, and drop off pretty badly. Now it peaks a little earlier, at 6Krpms, and drops off only 1-2%.

Jrohner, a couple of thoughts. Are you actually flowing less air than before? It could be that with your existing cams, and new IM and o2 housing, that you are actually not flowing less lb/min, but are seeing less psi thanks to freeing up the path. Have you logged airflow to see how much of a difference there is? If that's not the case, one thing I ran into while resuming high boost operation is that my bov was leaking like a sieve, which was causing me to loose a lot of pressure in the intake track, and I was only able to hold about 20-21psi. I fooled around with it for a few days and finally have it holding now, so you might want to test yours and see if it's leaking.

Get some cams and that boost wont hold that high like that anymore, except you will be even faster with the boost dropping as the cylinder pressure will increase and you wont be heating stuff up as much for given airflow. :thumb:

And Mikelv, nice dyno, but get some solid mounts on that thing LOL
 
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