The other wife

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Yeah I'm starting to wonder what the hell is going on with these injectors on the whole.
@b00zt3d spyd3r is using a global meant for 1000cc, the FIC table, and a deadtime of 75, yet his runs. That global should be just flooding on WOT yet it doesn't. The only way I can see that happening is if the AFPR is set to a higher base pressure (>60psi).

Nope first I set it with car off and pump enabled via ecmlink, hose off and plugged set to ~43.5. Then confirmed with car running and got the same.

 

[Jdm07j]

Nope first I set it with car off and pump enabled via ecmlink, hose off and plugged set to ~43.5. Then confirmed with car running and got the same.

I always wondered if that would work….awesome

 

[curt-s]

It should if you have a charged battery that can supply the pump. although 12V and 14V would make the pump able to move two different volumes, it should be close enough and definitely enough to start the car allowing you to adjust with it running, if need be

 

[curt-s]

 

[curt-s]

Haven't put the shims in yet but this is better.. maybe even slightly more than I need

 

[Jdm07j]

Looks better than the first video

 

[curt-s]

-63 global, -53 global, doesn't matter. Won't stay running.

WTF

 

[Jdm07j]

What’s going on with that right plug? Sure you’re getting fuel and spark there?

 

[curt-s]

What’s going on with that right plug? Sure you’re getting fuel and spark there?

Sure doesn't look like it. At least, not the correct amount and all the time I should be. I don't have a pool of fuel on top of the piston and the plug isn't wet, it's bone dry and indicating lean. I'm going to have to check my wiring.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Is it not running because it’s rich or too lean?


Either way keep adding or pulling dead time until it runs. It’s what had to be done to mine. Whatever works!

 

[curt-s]

Is it not running because it’s rich or too lean?


Either way keep adding or pulling dead time until it runs. It’s what had to be done to mine. Whatever works!

Worse, it doesn't matter what I do, it won't stay running anymore.
First thing I did was set global -53, deadtime to 80, VE table to stock, and DA table C/O FIC table.
It fired right up and idled a little high but it was cold. It seemed to like it. So I backed down the driveway with gravity and just before I got to the end, it died.
From there, I had nothing but trouble trying to keep it running. I've been on both sides of the rich scale, both lean (after it started adn then died) to rich (same thing). It doesn't stay running without a foot on the gas and I can't even start it and get to the throttle body fast enough before it kills itself.
Physical timing is correct. CAS is bolted down hard.

I'll take a look at the wiring tomorrow but there's definitely evidence that #4 plug isn't getting fuel or it has little to no compression anymore. Maybe it never did.
I'm also going to swap back to a green top. *edit* although now that I think of it, if it was the CAS issue, it wouldn't even start.
Maybe I have an intermittently screwy injector wire but I've disabled an injector before on a stock engine via link and it would just idle low and not like it, but it wouldn't stall.
This feels like something totally different. This is a combination of problems that I have a day left to fix before I just bin it for the winter. I wanted to end the season on a high note but I don't know if that's possible anymore.

 

[Jdm07j]

Sure doesn't look like it. At least, not the correct amount and all the time I should be. I don't have a pool of fuel on top of the piston and the plug isn't wet, it's bone dry and indicating lean. I'm going to have to check my wiring.

Yea I’d definitely confirm you have spark and fuel on that cylinder. Might have an issue with the injector or spark plug there. Did the engine feel like it had a miss?

 

[CrackedDSM]

Funny that when I first started mine, it had a misfire and an issue idling too. Ended up being a couple of the injector wires were broken but back in the sheathing so I couldn't really see it at first glance.


Maybe tap that injector with a wrench or something and see if the misfire goes away.

 

[curt-s]

It definitely sounded like it wasn't running on all four consistently, yet it started with no drama and was idling nice before I let it coast backwards down the driveway. I even gave it a throttle punch and it sounded fine. then it died.

Dunno boys, my thought is there must be something with the injector wiring going on here.. but just one shouldn't be enough to just stall out an engine, should it? I am running a lightweight flywheel and I've shaved a considerable amount of weight off piston/rods vs stock. Maybe that coupled with (still) incorrect fueling doesn't give it the beans at idle to stay alive.

If I hold the throttle open, it's not consistent and it sounds angry that I'm doing it.

I'm pulling the fuel system, filter to afpr, and will take a look

@CrackedDSM It doesn't stay running long enough to even go from starting it through the window to touching the throttle body. Definitely not long enough to tap an injector

 

[Jdm07j]

I absolutely feel like being down a cylinder and not being able to tune it properly yet would cause it to stall out yea. Because I’ve seen it with working injectors and the wrong settings on startup.

 

[curt-s]

Pulled apart injector harness plugs, crimped them a tiny bit to latch onto the injector terminals very well. Cleaned with contact cleaner
Adjusted fuel (55% global, 0 deadtime on top of FIC table, small VE changes) and it's no longer stalling.
Some changes still needed, my WOT is a full point lean.
Will need to buy a new narrowband O2 sensor but until then, simming with WB

Vroom vroom

Put 50km on it so far with Driven BR40 break-in oil and 10 minutes of idling. I think I'll change the oil to Driven HR5 tomorrow.
First, going to check to ensure my endplay is still good. With the lightweight flywheel and a lot of rotating mass dropped by going forged, I'm getting a bit of a random rpm drop on clutch-in. Maybe it's nothing but best check it.

 

[curt-s]

Just read Driven's break-in oil webpage

"You should run the engine at different RPMs to ensure the piston rings sit properly. After this period, you must change the oil and filter to remove metal particles. Make sure not to drive too aggressively or carry heavy loads the next thousand miles while using break-in oil."

also

"Good for dyno testing, one night of racing or up to 400 miles on the street."

Um.
Which is it? How are we to dyno or race and not drive aggressively/carry heavy loads?

 

[CrackedDSM]

Just read Driven's break-in oil webpage

"You should run the engine at different RPMs to ensure the piston rings sit properly. After this period, you must change the oil and filter to remove metal particles. Make sure not to drive too aggressively or carry heavy loads the next thousand miles while using break-in oil."

also

"Good for dyno testing, one night of racing or up to 400 miles on the street."

Um.
Which is it? How are we to dyno or race and not drive aggressively/carry heavy loads?

I think it's supposed to be an and/or situation. Like "It can be used as a break-in oil, OR if the engine is already broken in you can use it very short term and waste all of your time and money for no more than 400miles!"

 

[curt-s]

Oh, 62km on it, not 50.. almost 40mi but just in the sweet spot of MAP's break-in distance.

Endplay checks out still

 

[curt-s]

Now, I know the first oil/filter change is going to be the worst but this is plain ugly. Black long chips are probably paint from the outside, hammering a screwdriver to break through.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Eh. I still wouldn't sweat it until your second or third oil change. If it gets worse or stays that consistent, then worry. The first one is always a nightmare. Isn't this a built engine too? And how thoroughly was every single passageway, nook, and cranny cleaned before final assembly?


Send it. Listen for noises, keep checking things but I wouldn't let it keep you up at night.

 

[curt-s]

I cleaned it as best as I could... I bottle brushed down the entire main galley, cleaned the crank until nothing came out.. basically took a pressure washer to everything..

I will admit when I got my head back after they had to fix a couple valve seats, I didn't disassemble the entire thing but cleaned where there were any shavings. I don't see how they could have hid anywhere else.

Yeah nothing else to do but wait and see. Doubled the mileage tonight and it needs all sorts of fuel work and shit. I will have to check endplay again tomorrow because I'm getting rpm drop too often when idling and clutched in
If something is wrongly set, it would eat through pretty quick methinks.

I don't possibly see how since I smacked the crank, then wedged the crank against the thrust and did the opposite with the cap while I torqued it down. I made sure to keep the halves as flush as I could.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I cleaned it as best as I could...

Yeah nothing else to do but wait. Doubled the mileage tonight, needs all sorts of fuel work and shit. will have to check endplay again tomorrow because I'm getting rpm drop too often when idling and clutched in
If something is wrongly set, it would eat through pretty quick methinks.

I don't possibly see how since I smacked the crank, then wedged the crank against the thrust and did the opposite with the cap while I torqued it down. I made sure to keep the halves as flush as I could.

What I was getting at with the "how thoroughly was it cleaned" was that it's straight up impossible to clean every single nook, cranny, crevice and etc. There's gonna be stuff in there leftover that oil works its way loose. Even a hot tank after machining doesn't get everything. Even Jafro admitted it in one of his videos.


Also: I can't prove this with science, but no one will ever be able to convince me otherwise that with a lightweight flywheel and heavier-than-stock pressure plate, that RPM drops when clutch in isn't at least semi-normal. It's got way less rotational mass, and the PP is heavier than stock. Those two things combined make physics sense to me to have it drop a bit even with everything(endplay wise) perfect/fine. Keep checking the endplay for sanity sake, but if it all stays fine...add some Coasting FC Offset and keep on keepin' on.

 

[curt-s]

I had a fidanza on my 1g, it dropped randomly as well. 30k on it over 6 or 7 years and my endplay was less than .007.
This one is a bit more often but this has what the last one didn't: 800g less of piston/rod weight and my idle still isn't sorted. It's also a different build, different compression, etc.

I just thought of what that black shit could be.. there was a ton of black paint overspray which was kind of like balls stuck to the inside of the pan-- black powdercoat or something. It was the standard 6bolt pan from Rock Auto, so if that paint finally gave way from hot oil, that could explain and it'll diminish over time.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

This shit....it feels solid now but I bet it does breakdown. I haven't pulled the pan on my other 6 bolt to investigate it's issue but this is the same pan as you have. I'll be looking at the pan to see if it still has overspray on it.
THIS