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The other wife

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$600 for AEM X series boost and oil pressure gauges to replace these extremely disappointing Prosport Evos. Yuck.

The prosports would be great if they didn't have such a horrible polarizer axis alignment rendering them useless with polarized sunglasses and if they were brighter to be able to read during the day.
Even down in the instrument cluster dual gauge pod with long hoods, no dice.

I do not recommend.
 
$600 for AEM X series boost and oil pressure gauges to replace these extremely disappointing Prosport Evos. Yuck.

The prosports would be great if they didn't have such a horrible polarizer axis alignment rendering them useless with polarized sunglasses and if they were brighter to be able to read during the day.
Even down in the instrument cluster dual gauge pod with long hoods, no dice.

I do not recommend.
100% on the Prosports, I tossed the one that was in my DSM years ago into my RV to have a real oil pressure gauge and it's horrible to actually read, obviously I don't have a typical A pillar to mount it on in the RV so it's down at knee level, in the dash, yeah forget reading it while driving.
 
100% on the Prosports, I tossed the one that was in my DSM years ago into my RV to have a real oil pressure gauge and it's horrible to actually read, obviously I don't have a typical A pillar to mount it on in the RV so it's down at knee level, in the dash, yeah forget reading it while driving.
Which sucks because they're really actually the nicest gauge design I've seen yet. Font, face design, responsiveness, they check all the boxes..

..except the second most important one: readibility during the most commonly driven hours of the day LOL

My only hope is they at least were accurate. Should know in about two weeks.
 
I never had an issue with my pro sport oil pressure gauge, only annoyance is the 24awg wire doesn’t take much to sever but it was an easy fix, still read pressure just fine tho:idontknow:
 
I never had an issue with my pro sport oil pressure gauge, only annoyance is the 24awg wire doesn’t take much to sever but it was an easy fix, still read pressure just fine tho:idontknow:
I figure the numbers are about right. Hot idle of 15 at 950rpm and I've always had 50 by just under 3k rpm across every engine (3 now). I was just musing..

Looking to drop those hot temps a bit by clearing out more of the inner fender liner behind the oil cooler. It could use a bit more flow, it has less holes than the other side where the SMIC was
 
Would it help to put an anti-glare film over the screen? Perhaps getting rid of the glare would help to compensate for the low level of brightness
Antiglare coatings generally cut down light transmission, 1/3 or more of a stop. The brightness itself, even on the "brighter" blue setting, just ain't enough.

It's also why glossy LCD screens for computers/laptops were generally brighter. Newer tech has evened the score mostly but still not quite there.

That's ok, in my fumbling with the world's tiniest SMD components I'm pretty sure I nuked something with the boost gauge because it's now reading totally wrong. My 3bar is still trustworthy as my AFRs are dead on at 26-27psi.

Also, I set a new personal record of just shy of 40lb/min at under 6k rpm with 26psi and 10 degrees of timing
My stock trans is hating me I bet
 
I really need to pay you to build me a setup like that. So tired of having to lug the laptop to the car and only having like an hour tops of battery life to log with(gaming laptop life).

40lbs under 6k is movin'. Dizzam.
 
I really need to pay you to build me a setup like that. So tired of having to lug the laptop to the car and only having like an hour tops of battery life to log with(gaming laptop life).

40lbs under 6k is movin'. Dizzam.
It was not that much of a labour of love. In fact, it's a bit of a wiring mess and half the special components are Aliexpress. BUT they were cheap. Beats giving the money to Bezos.
It's a 5A DC-DC, some input voltage protection (TVS diodes) some short protection (polyfuses), a 30A power mosfet, an ATtiny85 to control the LED brightness oscillation as well as button depress/debounce/shorting an RPI pin to ground to trigger a shutdown script, a battery backed RTC clock, and a 5V fan.

All on a protoboard which are hell to solder. I'd rather not do it again. I need a PCB fab facility or a CNC mill.

Honestly, a windows tablet is likely cheaper than I'd have to charge to make it worthwhile to spend so many hours of my life putting these things together. That and I just don't have the time really.

But I appreciate the sentiment and the nod
 
I really need to pay you to build me a setup like that. So tired of having to lug the laptop to the car and only having like an hour tops of battery life to log with(gaming laptop life).

40lbs under 6k is movin'. Dizzam.
Besides.. I wasn't as careful with a drill bit as I should have been
Do you really want somebody like this constructing electronics for you LOL

But that explains why it doesn't reboot properly on its own and why the wireless adapter is nowhere to be found now

PXL_20250525_032322881.jpg
 
Besides.. I wasn't as careful with a drill bit as I should have been
Do you really want somebody like this constructing electronics for you LOL

But that explains why it doesn't reboot properly on its own and why the wireless adapter is nowhere to be found now

View attachment 765722


Yes. Yes I do.


That way when I can't get it to work because I'm entirely inept, and a total derp with electronics I can blame you.

Zero accountability FTW!
 
Maybe I'll be the first to try link with RPI 5..
It would be pretty nice, solid state drive instead of sdcard and a faster proc..

But I have no idea if it will work with the java still, nor do I remember how I got it to work in the first place. At least the 4b would be plug n play.

Either or, I'm not in a huge rush because my LCD is unreadable during the day and a high nit display is pretty pricey
 
Serious question that shows my lack of knowledge: Is Java still around? I thought they made some big hubbub ages ago about discontinuing support/disabling it.
java is still alive and kicking and will likely never go away. However, Oracle's Java, the big one, is less appealing by the year and many are moving to OpenJDK (a more open source java development kit)
 
Besides.. I wasn't as careful with a drill bit as I should have been
Do you really want somebody like this constructing electronics for you LOL

But that explains why it doesn't reboot properly on its own and why the wireless adapter is nowhere to be found now

View attachment 765722
Looks worse than it is. Trace repair and a little conformal coating will fix it right up.
 
Looks worse than it is. Trace repair and a little conformal coating will fix it right up.

Broke out the 70-200 for a closer look.
The problem is all the pictures I can find have that area covered by the sticker so I'm not sure if I have complete traces.
The other four are pretty obvious. But, no, these traces are too thin to repair by my hand. I'd rather just replace it. This is a fraction of a fraction of a millimeter.

1748193315437.png
 
Broke out the 70-200 for a closer look.
The problem is all the pictures I can find have that area covered by the sticker so I'm not sure if I have complete traces.
The other four are pretty obvious. But, no, these traces are too thin to repair by my hand. I'd rather just replace it. This is a fraction of a fraction of a millimeter.

View attachment 765739
You're right. It's doable but is it worth the time? Probably just easier and cheaper to replace and fix this one on your own if you have the equipment/skill.
 
You're right. It's doable but is it worth the time? Probably just easier and cheaper to replace and fix this one on your own if you have the equipment/skill.
Indeed and as much as I'd like to be free of the laptop, high brightness self-contained LCD displays with touch capability are driving the cost of this project ever higher.
 
Need to check my rollers or hla for the ticking..
But also checked endplay again

After 1000km, happy to report it's staying where it was from the beginning



X series gauges are in, also on my list for this weekend
 
8 New HLAs, swapped out some rollers that were a little beat up

Didn't get timing on the first shot.. almost had a hat trick. Off by about .25mm

Had to extend the lead going to the oil pressure sender because AEMs just isn't quite long enough but gauges are in

It's been 34C all day with smoke, I'm seriously beat but will still try and hit up cruise night today

PXL_20250601_231946164.jpg
 
Good-ish in second gear
1748897459260.png


Not so good in third
1748897544293.png


I'm not sure what's causing that oscillation but it definitely sounds like the 68HTAv3 is surging after 20psi if under 5k rpm.
The only other time I had this happen was with the B16G if I put my foot down in 5th gear under 3000rpm. Just not enough revs.

The Cyclone should activate all runners after 4000rpm and 8psi, yet it doesn't clear up at all. Perhaps the Cyclone actuation mechanisms aren't working correctly at higher boost.
I'll disconnect it so that everything is default open and see if there's a difference.
 
Nice build. Everytime i see someone starting a build with the v3 68hta i never hear any feedback. Hope to see some results for your build. Unfortunate about the oil squirter but there only brazed on and get brittle over time.
Stock cams, see the above third gear test.
 
So I also recalled that in my wastegate I put a 11psi spring. I wonder if that's not helping my boost issue in third..
But im running the 3 port solenoid plumbed via ecmtuning's guide, upper and lower ports.
My VE table is basically stock in upper pressures..
I'm a little stumped but I haven't gotten out again yet. Now my WG is in halves and I have to wait until longer M4 bolts come in because I cannot for the life of me compress it in that space to reassemble. So I'll just use longer bolts in graduated lengths to bring the pieces together iteratively.
 
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