The other wife

[jdxnc]

Quick grip clamps are great for closing wastegates/bov's.

 

[curt-s]

Quick grip clamps are great for closing wastegates/bov's.

View attachment 766783

They would be.. if I had room


Getting to the clamp bolts is nigh impossible already, as I painted myself into a corner with their rotation. So I just ordered a set of M4 bolts from 30mm to .. small. I'll just start with the longest and alternate in threes until she's back together.

Thats the plan anyway.

Wiring up an amp for the component speakers in the meantime. Couldn't argue with a NIB Hertz 4.300 for $160 from Visions.

 

[curt-s]

Oh god it sounds so much better when the head unit "amp" (4x25W RMS) isn't fighting the 30 year old infinity amp.
But now I'm finding the 6x9s just don't have enough extension down low.
Perhaps will seek out a small thing, self amplified. If I want brain melting thump, I'll just go to my basement.

To note, the components are Kicker DSC650 up front and DSC6930s in the rear

 

[curt-s]

Still goin..

 

[curt-s]

Gonna go for the collectors plate qualification (25+ years only) with a custom plate.. was thinking of SLOWDSM or JDMISH

... of course the second one could be mistaken for JD Amish

 

[curt-s]

Got some new plates..

 

[CrackedDSM]

Gonna go for the collectors plate qualification (25+ years only) with a custom plate.. was thinking of SLOWDSM or JDMISH

... of course the second one could be mistaken for JD Amish

You DID just build a shed from scratch. Just saying.

 

[curt-s]

Looks worse than it is. Trace repair and a little conformal coating will fix it right up.

I finally got around to getting a digital microscope (aliexpress Hayve DM13 10.1" FTW) and I did exactly that. Turns out, 6 traces were cut. Four of them pretty badly..
So I took some braided copper wire and used the strands to repair the traces as they were the same diameter as the trace width. A smattering of conformal coating to keep the solder connections from vibrating loose later and she runs just fine now.

So, let's see..

$87 + shipping for a replacement rpi

or

$110 for the scope
$13 for solder paste
$12 for a new set of tips which included angled 0.2mm i needed
the pride of doing it myself


I believe it was the correct decision to repair it myself.

 

[curt-s]

Rebuilt my Pi logging computer with a better power supply.. that is, a 4A buck converter with decent sized power cap utilizing a pmosfet softstart for the 5v and the 12v, well, just a copy and paste of the softstart but with different resistors to alter the cap charge time. The 12V powers a 600nit external touchscreen LCD display (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0C2ZJY8KR) , hopefully it's enough for daylight drives.
Currently printing the LCD enclosure and mounting system using ABS. It'll be mounted to the passenger side of the center console on a fold-away arm. First time in a while that I've been back into Blender.

This year I've got some stuff to do before the shows start:
1) Put the BC272s back in. Now that I know how stock cams feel, I can better gauge how much of a difference these make with the butt dyno. I had them in on the fresh build but that also brought with it an increase in compression ratio and the 68HTAv3.. this will be more apples to apples.

2) Give my bushings a once over and replace with ES.

3) Trying to get my hood resprayed

4) Battery relocation to trunk

5) Install the LCD

6) Strongly considering Redline 75W140NS in the transmission. They say it's safe for all synchros..

7) I think I'll stick with Driven HR5 10W40 this year

I should also scope the cylinders as the PTW was built pretty loose due to machine shop incompetence. I ran it anyway because, why the f not.. I already had the pistons. Not like I'm going to scrap the motor for a couple thousandths on one cylinder. She quietens up after everything gets nice and warm when the oil is usually around 21psi at idle (15-16 hot idle). Then it purrs as a kitten and free revs without any ticking/knocking/whatnot. I make sure of it every time after I pull in the garage. Oh, yes, I grab that throttle cable and give it a few blips to listen to the sound.

I probably should pull the OFH to ensure it's still working as expected. I started the car once when it was cold, around 10C, and the oil took about 5-7 seconds before I started seeing it out the HLAs and onto the cams.

 

[curt-s]

oh and also try and fab up a heatshield to protect the alternator

 

[curt-s]

Whelp, endplay has creeped up just over .008 after 4k on this build which was a shitshow from the very start. I had hopes but I'm honestly not surprised. From one shop that overbored a cylinder, my first set of rods' big ends, gouged one cylinder wall, AND line honed in such a way that it made #3 tighter than any other, to another shop that didn't cut my valve seats correctly causing visible light gaps, to some smaller, admitted mistakes by myself.. it was likely doomed from the beginning. #1 and #4 are the ugliest and I'm surprised I'm seeing this much scuffing from the piston skirts on .004 PTW (except that one they f***ed up)

That being said, I'm lining up a local shop that has done a lot of 4G63s of the Evo variety but it's the same basic shit. The shop is well known for performance builds. Fall timeframe. I'm done with doing garage builds. I can't keep them clean enough and I'm just sick of all the running around it takes. I have other shit to do.

Important changes on the next one: no oil cooler, no oil squirters, and I'm iffy on using a Kiggy girdle again since I received two that were significantly warped from the factory but am told from the source that's normal?

Until then, well, I'll watch to see how fast it creeps further but this car has a couple shows to attend regardless one way or another. It's filled with HR5 10W40 but now I'm wondering if I should put in somethingW50 instead.

Funny enough, this oil filter looked cleaner inside than the one before it

Updates:

Finally had the hood repainted and am making a few other changes:
- BC272s back in
- GM 3bar -> AEM 3.5bar
- PI puter v2 with center console LCD mount
- battery relocation to trunk
- New custom trunk floor
- new catch can setup

Designed and printed:
- brackets: one for the AEM MAP to mount to the IM, printed in PA612-CF15 for heat tolerance. second for the fat brass AEM X-Series boost sensor to mount to the firewall, printed in ASA.
- bumper air intake and ductwork to funnel fresh air straight to the filter. ASA.
- air filter enclosure in PA612-CF15. Probably didn't need this kind of heat tolerance since it will be largely cooled by air all the time but oh well.
- new center console trim (the big piece that goes around the double DIN and HVAC controls) integrating an LCD mount. ASA.
- the LCD shell that attaches to the new console trim piece. ABS. I figure I'll be redoing this in ASA after the sun gets to it but we'll see.

pics to follow, maybe

 

[curt-s]

Guess some pictures and videos n shit

 

[curt-s]

 

[curt-s]