The other wife

[curt-s]

This shit....it feels solid now but I bet it does breakdown. I haven't pulled the pan on my other 6 bolt to investigate it's issue but this is the same pan as you have. I'll be looking at the pan to see if it still has overspray on it.
THIS

View attachment 747167

View attachment 747168

Yeah, some of it, if I recall correctly, came off when I was washing it out.
The only other place that had possibility of black stuff to be picked up was my braided hoses that run to the cooler, the turbo, and the pressure gauge.
After cutting them, I flushed with water both ways using the high pressure hose nozzle end, pulsing, moving it around, hitting the parts where I cut + as far into it as I could.. from both sides. Finished with 90psi+ of air pressure and made sure I couldn't see rubber bits.
The rest of the metal, well, rings and cylinder walls is my hope

 

[92Turbski]

Yeah, some of it, if I recall correctly, came off when I was washing it out.
The only other place that had possibility of black stuff to be picked up was my braided hoses that run to the cooler, the turbo, and the pressure gauge.
After cutting them, I flushed with water both ways using the high pressure hose nozzle end, pulsing, moving it around, hitting the parts where I cut + as far into it as I could.. from both sides. Finished with 90psi+ of air pressure and made sure I couldn't see rubber bits.
The rest of the metal, well, rings and cylinder walls is my hope

Looks ok, man. Keep on keeping on. Swap the oil filters and clean oil. She'll be alright.

 

[curt-s]

Looks ok, man. Keep on keeping on. Swap the oil filters and clean oil. She'll be alright.

Yep, on a WIX filter now that I had to flush the insides out with Lucas 20W50 Racing oil (1) because I couldn't spare any Driven HR5, and (2) there were metal particulates on the inside (post-filter medium) of it. WIX has gone downhill in quality it seems
Filled with oil, swished, dump. Did that four times. Then put some HR5 in it and installed. HR5 10W40 now.
Noticed my oil pressure dropped a couple psi, probably due to the less fine filtering medium than an OEM filter. Still 14+ at idle, 50 at 3000rpm and climbs from there.
It's only going to be running in there for the next day anyway then it gets changed again this/next year.

 

[curt-s]

Well considering last time I checked yesterday it was over .005 but started below .000, I'd say it doesn't appear to have moved in another 80km (140 total).

Will continue to watch it.

 

[curt-s]

and I'll definitely have to watch it because I have three different numbers now.

The shop first told me I was ~0.0051 or something of the sort.
When I set the thrust bearing, I measured somewhere .004ish with a prybar
Running, I'm at .006

Maybe I flubbed it when I measured before, entirely possible. .006 is on the high side of normal range but if it stays there, I'm happy

Obligatory idle video

 

[CrackedDSM]

and I'll definitely have to watch it because I have three different numbers now.

The shop first told me I was ~0.0051 or something of the sort.
When I set the thrust bearing, I measured somewhere .004ish with a prybar
Running, I'm at .006

Maybe I flubbed it when I measured before, entirely possible. .006 is on the high side of normal range but if it stays there, I'm happy

Obligatory idle video

Man. Yours idles so freakin' smooth compared to mine. If I do actually have BC272's I wonder what I've done wrong.


Need to get a mic and measure my lobes. Mine is so rowdy to just be 272's.

 

[curt-s]

You really have to slip this fidanza clutch at 1500-2000rpm, at least whilst fresh.
And she grabs nearly right off the top.

 

[curt-s]

Well that's fun, I can hear the whistle off the turbine wheel of the 6851S out of my exhaust, especially coming to a stop where the assembly spins down.

 

[curt-s]

I do not like the Fidanza V2 clutch disc. Chatters hard at anything below a sustained 2000rpm (which is difficult since it grabs so hard and I lost a lot of rotating mass) and it's smoother at 2500+... you can't slip it off 1000rpm which I could do with my old Fidanza 4-puck kevlar setup. Why did I buy it? It was cheap, from RTM during their going out of business sale. Figured it would be as at least as nice as the 4 puck since it had two more pucks.. but that material it's made of is grabby AF. It's not forgiving and it's almost like a switch: on or off.

Methinks this is not a daily disc Probably won't last too long either

Perhaps it should come out next year and I'll just go to a full face disc before everything gets bedded too much.

I've also got a small clattering in the upper half on free rev decel right before it returns to idle, I'm thinking some of these HLAs I bought in 2009 might be a little whimpy now. They only have ~30,000km on them but a lot of years and a half dozen cleanouts. I'll have to pop the VC off and see if I have any play.

Thinking I might also ditch the BC272s.. haven't quite decided yet, will know more once I crack open the top

 

[CrackedDSM]

I do not like the Fidanza V2 clutch disc. Chatters hard at anything below a sustained 2000rpm (which is difficult since it grabs so hard and I lost a lot of rotating mass) and it's smoother at 2500+... you can't slip it off 1000rpm which I could do with my old Fidanza 4-puck kevlar setup. Why did I buy it? It was cheap, from RTM during their going out of business sale. Figured it would be as at least as nice as the 4 puck since it had two more pucks.. but that material it's made of is grabby AF. It's not forgiving and it's almost like a switch: on or off.

Methinks this is not a daily disc Probably won't last too long either

Perhaps it should come out next year and I'll just go to a full face disc before everything gets bedded too much.

I've also got a small clattering in the upper half on free rev decel right before it returns to idle, I'm thinking some of these HLAs I bought in 2009 might be a little whimpy now. They only have ~30,000km on them but a lot of years and a half dozen cleanouts. I'll have to pop the VC off and see if I have any play.

Thinking I might also ditch the BC272s.. haven't quite decided yet, will know more once I crack open the top

Honestly, if I had more wherewithal I'd have ditched the BC272s for a set of HKS 272(or even the Delta regrind version)s or GSC S2s a VERY long time ago. I hate these cams, and I hated them before I even owned them. My favorite street cams bar none are the HKS 272s. They were the absolute best as far as "drop in" not needing to be degreed/showing the least gain from degreeing, the idle is excellent, and they lost the least down low compared to all the other 272s tested.


But yeah, your choice for sure, but honestly if I have to do a single thing that requires the timing belt to come off, I will be selling these things or just sending them out to get reground into HKS 272s.

 

[curt-s]

Yeah, I'm not sure. I have time to decide.

Didn't get the clatter up top today so I'm pretty sure it's the HLAs..

Pulled the Wix oil filter off and took my time cutting it open. Car now has just under 390km on it, 200mi from the first oil change for you southerners

So, a lot less large metal shit in it, a little bit of black flecks. Still convinced that's from the overspray on the pan.

I've got my reservations about the very fine glittery shit, but there's ARP lube on the head stud nuts, washers, the main stud nuts and washers, and all up in the rod bolts that takes forever to wash out.. pulled the filter element apart, zero flakes or large debris.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Yeah, I'm not sure. I have time to decide.

Didn't get the clatter up top today so I'm pretty sure it's the HLAs..

Pulled the Wix oil filter off and took my time cutting it open. Car now has just under 390km on it, 200mi from the first oil change for you southerners

So, a lot less large metal shit in it, a little bit of black flecks. Still convinced that's from the overspray on the pan.

I've got my reservations about the very fine glittery shit, but there's ARP lube on the head stud nuts, washers, the main stud nuts and washers, and all up in the rod bolts that takes forever to wash out.. pulled the filter element apart, zero flakes or large debris.

Damn it, I was gonna use my favorite quote until I saw that.

Still gonna use it, screw it.

"What the f*ck is a kilometer?!"

 

[curt-s]

Damn it, I was gonna use my favorite quote until I saw that.

Still gonna use it, screw it.

"What the f*ck is a kilometer?!"

That really simple measurement that the rest of the world uses. Base 10 biznitch.

 

[CrackedDSM]

That really simple measurement that the rest of the world uses. Base 10 biznitch.

We won the right to use mile after winning the back to back world war championship belt.

 

[curt-s]

We won the right to use mile after winning the back to back world war championship belt.

Hey, if you want to cut off your nose to spite your face, be my guest.
One of these days you'll all come around and will realize that to use a smaller unit of measurement, you just divide by 10s.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Hey, if you want to cut off your nose to spite your face, be my guest.
One of these days you'll all come around and will realize that to use a smaller unit of measurement, you just divide by 10s.

I'm in EMS. We almost exclusively use the Metric system for everything. Dosages, Pt weights, etc. I'm just ribbing you.

 

[curt-s]

I know, bud. I was wondering if I should put an emoticonoji on my post there. Good reminder though that you know your reality units.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I know, bud. I was wondering if I should put an emoticonoji on my post there. Good reminder though that you know your reality units.

Stop being civil I'm trying to argue with you. What are you, Canadian?

 

[curt-s]

Stop being civil I'm trying to argue with you. What are you, Canadian?

I used to be prouder of that... I mean, there are worse alternatives but, damn, are we starting to take ourselves down a few notches by following some bad examples.
Anyhoo, time to formulate a plan for next spring..

a) use actual fuel line clamps on the pump outlet and bulkhead
b) sort out my suspension. I'm using AGXs with springs from a GST. why? because i needed something fast that didn't give the 4x4 look (8inches+ of ground clearance). these are now too soft and my tires are taking a fender shitkicking.
c) pop off the VC to see how many of my HLAs are limping along. I'm still wondering why do the "new" (??) toplines look so much different than the old?
d) now at 400km, I think it's time to open up the boost a bit more. my max hit was ~17psi so far.
e) check turbo play and for evidence of oil shooting past the seals. I already emptied out the filter and it definitely caught some stuff, as one would expect with a new build.
f) look into getting myself into AN fittings on the VC just to provide more capacity and reduce pressure in the crankcase
g) get hood repainted. The whole car needs it but the hood needs it the most.
h) fine some new wheels + tires. I like the evo x bbs look but they're too big, leave too little sidewall, and 245s are just too fat for me. 235s in a 17 is where I want to be.

in 400km I don't appear to be burning oil as the level hasnt changed. i've been running right above full due to the larger oil cooler capacity and so much of that that disappears the moment it's running (and then comes right back after sitting) so I should be ok with drainage still.

I was going to go with a new, quieter chambered muffler but now that I just realized I can hear my turbo spool down, I don't know if i want to give that up... it definitely helps announce your presence rolling up to a light

 

[curt-s]

Also, to anyone installing a 6851S/68HTA v3 using ARP turbo bolts, the front driver side hole in their turbine housing isn't deep enough to fully seat the bolt, at least when using the Evo3 manifold. You'll need to double washer it.

 

[curt-s]

Considering pairing these together (with hub centric rings, obviously)

Right now, I have Evo X BBSs (18x8.5 ET38) with 245/40/18 but the tires need replacement and all four were curb rashed pretty good from the previous owner.

I'd go 225 with 17x7.5+40 or something similar but I like this style, reminiscent still of the BBS wheels.

 

[curt-s]

New wheels and tires and some "good enough for boostin around town" coilovers later and it's sitting pretty nice.
I might have to raise the rear end a quarter inch for balance, though.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

New wheels and tires and some "good enough for boostin around town" coilovers later and it's sitting pretty nice.
I might have to raise the rear end a quarter inch for balance, though.

Shes sittin pretty Love that the wheels have a darker tint to them instead of the typical alloy silver. I mustve missed it somewhere but what coilovers did you end up going with?

 

[curt-s]

Shes sittin pretty Love that the wheels have a darker tint to them instead of the typical alloy silver. I mustve missed it somewhere but what coilovers did you end up going with?

Just a set of Yonakas.
I'm coming from AGXs with already used H&R Sport springs meant for a FWD, so this is still an upgrade. Rear end squat trimmed my tires but those are 15 years old and I'm trying to unload the BBSs anyway.

I am ok with going entry level at the start, see how they work. They aren't adjustable so besides preload they are what they are.. maybe they are enough for my needs. If not, I know I have other options.

 

[curt-s]

They're not great but they're not too bad. Unfortunately their bushing is sized too small for the post so I had to open them up with a drum sander a bit. About 0.2mm but it mattered -- otherwise it would seize on the post and you can't get it off. Hell you couldn't even get it on without pressing it. Dumb.

Anyhoo, forged piston slap on cold it seems. I thought my bottom end was done at 400km just due to the sound, though the oil filter showed no evidence, but it goes completely away with a bit of heat and then sounds tight as a drum after that free-revving. I've never spun a bearing before but I would assume if shit was that bad, it would get worse/louder the thinner the oil is or, at the least, stay the same.

BoostEst and AFRs are pretty damn close. The car can move ok but I was expecting a bit better of spool response with the 8.5:1. It even sounds like I'm surging it hard down (ffFFFFFFFFFFFFPFPFPFPFPFPFP) but I don't understand how. Or maybe that's just the sound my intake makes -- 8" cone on a 4" S-pipe with an appropriate reducer. Perhaps very turbulent flow.