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The other wife

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Pro tip: if FedEx mails you a brokerage bill a couple weeks after you receive your shipment and you didn’t sign for it - throw the letter in the trash. It’s not an enforceable debt because you never agreed to the charges. Eventually they’ll “send it to collections” which is an entirely phony company. After three letters, they just forget about it. I haven’t paid FedEx ground fees in years, and those fees they charge ($30 to collect $3 on my last bill) are so high to milk the paying customers as much as they can, because a lot of people don’t actually pay them. They eat the tax in those cases, but they’ll spend more on postage to collect it than the tax they paid. FedEx and UPS routinely lose class action lawsuits for predatory brokerage, but they keep doing it anyway. It should be criminal. UPS has been very reasonable on my shipments from Japan lately - always around $10 in fees - but I don’t know if UPS Ground from the US is the same.
 
Threw on lights and bumper, finished fender liner modifications for the 10an ofh lines.
Found a m10x1.25x25mm bolt.. that's a match to the driver side motor mount-to-block but i scoped down the timing cover and the two bolts and the nut are on.. so I'm not sure what it was from

Put tires on, get it off the jack stands, roll it out a bit to get some more room and perhaps I'll muster the courage to start it tomorrow. It is supposed to be cold, though.

Before I do all that, I think I'll cut some slots in the driver side from fender liner to allow air through, like it is on the passenger side (stock), since the oil cooler is there

PXL_20241013_004956851.jpg
 
1728787402031.png


I think I finally realized what that bolt was from, as it's been sitting there since the engine went in. It's flanged, nothing else in that area is flanged -- the closest thing would be on the oil pump (top rightmost bolt) but that was already installed.

We used it for one of the engine leveller L brackets, to bolt the leveller/hoist to the block.
I can now sleep easy(er)
 
Calibrated WB
Threw 10L of 91 in it
Ran fuel pump, checked for leaks
Reset SD table, maxoct timing and AFR
Put in fuel compensation: -62.5% for 1200s, 510usec deadtime but I might need a bit more.
PXL_20241014_010652798.jpg

Dry started it for 5 seconds, no oil pressure would build but I already primed it before putting the belt on so I know oil gets to the top

Procrastinated and finally manned up LOL. Doesn't matter if it's today, tomorrow, or next week, the result will be the same. The more I put it off the worse I feel about the unknown.

Sputtered but did not want to start.
Checked physical timing again but with the head and deck shave, I've lost maybe a degree, if that. I'm still within the indent on the timing plate, but it's not perfectly centerable with the timing belt across the crank sprocket and oil pump.

Anyhoo, bumped up my cranking VE to 60 and it fired up. Had to raise idle to 60 as well on open loop to get ~14.7V but then I retimed the motor and now I'm a tad rich (.5-.6 points). So I need a bit more deadtime and much less VE but not as much as I thought originally.

Cold oil PSI at 12C was 72psi, after 10 minutes it was ~23psi ~900rpm. (Driven 10W40 break-in oil)

I shut it down at 91C coolant temp when I saw a load of smoke, but it seems that it was coming from the back left turbo-mani bolt. They all were gently smoking (less than I'm actually used to) but then it just went poooooooof off one all of a sudden.

I might have a small oil leak off the welded 10AN return which is potentially going to suck but I''ll keep an eye on it. Also one at the top AN interface for the oil cooler. That might even be a thing for next year to address but I'll keep an eye on both.

I might try the DA table for injector values tomorrow. My voltage was 12.1V battery off, alt was kicking out 14.9V-15V (brief 15.1 but only tiny spikes) the entire time. So even then, I'm surprised I need to add deadtime because I should be reaching higher towads the 16V DA offsets.

I've got a lot of work to do on the tune but since I'm running the WG direct off LICP and I'm pretty sure I put in the 8psi spring, I have enough boost in there for break-in. I have my BCS still, just bypassed, and I'll be using the IR solenoid next year.

Considering all I needed to do was up my crank/idle VE by 5 points (probably due to a low deadtime) and it started right up and idled, I'm pretty happy about that. Now my biggest worry is the bottom end, of course.

 
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You got this man. I’m stoked on your behalf and especially happy you didn’t have my speed density troubles!
It's still early. I never even blipped the throttle, but I'm running out of break-in window.
14 seems a tad low on vac but I'm running BC272s straight up as well. I'll have to check your logs.
 
It's still early. I never even blipped the throttle, but I'm running out of break-in window.
14 seems a tad low on vac but I'm running BC272s straight up as well. I'll have to check your logs.


Mine was a shit show. My BCs idle at like 12 on a good day. Lol.
 
So that I can keep the dummy light. Will plumb this right off the same line that feeds the prosport sending unit

Waiting until it's a touch warmer to add the all important decals. I think we all know which one that is
 

Attachments

So today, it started after a bit of drama. Then I was fighting it for 30-40 minutes trying to figure out what mixture it wanted.
It would start (usually), throw up to 1100 fairly smoothly, then drop down to idle and die out. By holding the TB open, I finally got it to idle high for long enough for both O2 sensors to kick in. She was running stupid lean.
While it was forcibly idling high, link was telling me I was nearly 20% off in fuel even at 13.8-14V. Oof.

I didn't use the DA tables, so I added a bunch in global just to get it running and it actually stayed idling. 580usec instead of 510 got me to CFT of ~6%.

I need to put some more slack in the throttle cable.

1st is a notchy so I need to shim that pivot ball even more methinks. It disengages right off the top but must be dragging.

Stalled at every stop sign.
I hit 2psi but was 16.8:1 in the doing so.
Something is terribly screwy here with fuel. I do have to scale up my VE table because in my messing about trying to figure out what mix it wanted, I scaled everything down and didnt restore anything but idle/start area :O LOL

In short, not the first drive result I had in my head...

I'm going to swap my fuel pressure gauge as well. Maybe it's telling lies.
 

Attachments

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Set to 42.6?
The basics, yea, if my current gauge is to be believed. I will be swapping for a brand new one tomorrow. FIC generally rates their injectors starting at 43.5 so I try to match that both in global fuel and deadtime.

However, I know I have to adjust my DA table instead of just global because when I get a voltage drop due to low rpm, its still using OE values for 13V. The 1200s have a larger offset spread between 12-14V than OE denso 450s (200 vs 300, which could mean a possible 50usec difference at 13V), so I should be going to the DA table to set a base from their sheet and then add the rest in global.
 
Only thing I noticed (and I’m by no means a pro) is that your injectors are rated for 1212cc but you have 1187cc entered in the calc. I was under the impression that you use what they are rated for at 43.5 (industry standard, which is what is listed on the sheet) in the global adjustment. Which would bring your global to -62.9% vs -62.1%. Also assuming that you have fuel pressure set to 42.6 on your afpr as discussed (which you have in the global calc). Logs looked a bit rich (5% ish combined FT) and looked like some points in the log where you weren’t in closed loop and o2 wasn’t cycling
 
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Only thing I noticed (and I’m by no means a pro) is that your injectors are rated for 1212cc but you have 1187cc entered in the calc. I was under the impression that you use what they are rated for at 43.5 (industry standard, which is what is listed on the sheet) in the global adjustment. Which would bring your global to -62.9% vs -62.1%. Also assuming that you have fuel pressure set to 42.6 on your afpr as discussed (which you have in the global calc). Logs looked a bit rich (5% ish combined FT) and looked like some points in the log where you weren’t in closed loop and o2 wasn’t cycling
The sections where it wasn't cycling followed the times it stalled at every stop sign and remained in open loop, if I'm following the same places you are. Regarding global, yes, that was a point in time decision to affect fuel across the board which I didn't revert but also means my deadtime was effectively even larger than I had to set it just to get it to idle. It is not something that will carry forward and calibration is going to take a lot longer with these than the 750s apparently.

And 1212 at 43.5 puts me at -63.3

What baffles me a bit is they use this generic table
1729131597786.png


but they tell me my average offset at 13.5V is 1384us
1729131634570.png


So that would realistically mean I could set my DA tables to the above and then give an additional ~150us of global deadtime (not exactly 1384 given I'm at 13.8-13.9V instead of 13.5), perhaps. I guess that's not far off since I already added 70 (1200-690 @ 14V = 510 + 70 = 580) and it got most of the way there. My global was adding too much fuel but the VE table was taking away too much, two things I didn't bother to try and get right because I needed to get back and it was turning dark fast).

12V = 1500us (generic)
13.V = 1384us (tested)
14V = 1200us (generic)

184us added just for .5V, so that drops off quick from 14V given that the remaining 1.5V to go from 13.5V to 12V comprises just 116us. Generic table, though, so it may be even longer at 12V for these.

BUT! at least I didn't start this journey stupid horribly rich and washing the cylinders with fuel. I'd rather be lean and bringing it in than being 25% or more past the middle mark in the wrong direction.
 
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The sections where it wasn't cycling followed the times it stalled at every stop sign and remained in open loop, if I'm following the same places you are. Regarding global, yes, that was a point in time decision to affect fuel across the board which I didn't revert but also means my deadtime was effectively even larger than I had to set it just to get it to idle. It is not something that will carry forward and calibration is going to take a lot longer with these than the 750s apparently.

And 1212 at 43.5 puts me at -63.3

What baffles me a bit is they use this generic table
View attachment 746765

but they tell me my average offset at 13.5V is 1384us
View attachment 746766

So that would realistically mean I could set my DA tables to the above and then give an additional ~150us of global deadtime (not exactly 1384 given I'm at 13.8-13.9V instead of 13.5), perhaps. I guess that's not far off since I already added 70 (1200-690 @ 14V = 510 + 70 = 580) and it got most of the way there. My global was adding too much fuel but the VE table was taking away too much, two things I didn't bother to try and get right because I needed to get back and it was turning dark fast).

12V = 1500us (generic)
13.V = 1384us (tested)
14V = 1200us (generic)

184us added just for .5V, so that drops off quick from 14V given that the remaining 1.5V to go from 13.5V to 12V comprises just 116us. Generic table, though, so it may be even longer at 12V for these.
so if your AFPR is actually set to 43.5 then I believe you would use that in the global calc. I think that fuel pressure line in the calc is intended to be used as a "what do you actually have your fuel pressure set to" setting. The injector calc line is intended for what they are rated for at 43.5. So in your case I was saying you would enter it as follows in the calc:
Injector Size: 1212cc
Base Fuel Pressure: 42.6psi (or whatever your FPR gauge actually reads/what you have it set to)

The calc does the rest to get you close. Aka it factors in the any difference in fuel pressure vs stock and also factors in the difference in injector size vs stock (at industry standard). So instead of thinking of it as a "what do my injectors flow at a certain PSI" its more of a "my injectors flow this (at industry standard listed on data sheet) and my fuel pressure is currently set to this". Or:
FlowRateAdj2G = squareroot(BaseFuelPressure / 42.6)
NewInjFlow = InjectorCCPerMin * FlowRateAdj
Adj = (100 * ( 450 / NewInjFlow ) ) - 100
I thought about this quite a bit and maybe someone can chime in as well if I'm off on this but to me it seems like the easiest thing is to just set fuel pressure to 43.5 on your AFPR and then use the sheet as a starting point (including injbatteryadj)
The table confused me at first too but in reality you just split the difference where you need to. aka from your chart
12v - 1500
13v - =(1500-1200)/2+1200 = 1350
14v - 1200
 
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so if your AFPR is actually set to 43.5 then I believe you would use that in the global calc. I think that fuel pressure line in the calc is intended to be used as a "what do you actually have your fuel pressure set to" setting. The injector calc line is intended for what they are rated for at 43.5. So in your case I was saying you would enter it as follows in the calc:
Injector Size: 1212cc
Base Fuel Pressure: 42.6psi (or whatever your FPR gauge actually reads/what you have it set to)

The calc does the rest to get you close. Aka it factors in the any difference in fuel pressure vs stock and also factors in the difference in injector size vs stock (at industry standard). So instead of thinking of it as a "what do my injectors flow at a certain PSI" its more of a "my injectors flow this (at industry standard listed on data sheet) and my fuel pressure is currently set to this". Or:
FlowRateAdj2G = squareroot(BaseFuelPressure / 42.6)
NewInjFlow = InjectorCCPerMin * FlowRateAdj
Adj = (100 * ( 450 / NewInjFlow ) ) - 100
I thought about this quite a bit and maybe someone can chime in as well if I'm off on this but to me it seems like the easiest thing is to just set fuel pressure to 43.5 on your AFPR and then use the sheet as a starting point (including injbatteryadj)
The table confused me at first too but in reality you just split the difference where you need to. aka from your chart
12v - 1500
13v - =(1500-1200)/2+1200 = 1350
14v - 1200

That's what I intend to do (set base FP to 43.5), as soon as I put the other gauge in and verify they're both telling the same story.
The RPM reading also has too much oscillation. Though that could even out when it's actually getting the proper fuel flow but that needs to be sorted out. I'm running a black top CAS this time, perhaps I'll swap back to my green top that I know was working fine. She was bucking in some spots pretty good. Of course, there's a LOT more fuel being squirted per 10th of a millisecond with 1200s than there is with smaller injectors, so the overall change in cylinder fuel concentration is greater when things aren't quite right.

My next attempt has 85us of deadtime on top of
1729136442405.png


Mainly because my earlier attempts using the DA table straight as is did not start the car even with the global pulling too little. It needed an additional +70us to start (stock DA + 580us). That might be due to the FP gauge telling lies.
 
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Hope you get it there dude, it’s coming along nicely. Car looks great

That's what I intend to do (set base FP to 43.5), as soon as I put the other gauge in and verify they're both telling the same story.
The RPM reading also has too much oscillation. Though that could even out when it's actually getting the proper fuel flow but that needs to be sorted out. I'm running a black top CAS this time, perhaps I'll swap back to my green top that I know was working fine. She was bucking in some spots pretty good. Of course, there's a LOT more fuel being squirted per 10th of a millisecond with 1200s than there is with smaller injectors, so the overall change in cylinder fuel concentration is greater when things aren't quite right.

My next attempt has 85us of deadtime on top of
View attachment 746767

Mainly because my earlier attempts using the DA table straight as is did not start the car even with the global pulling too little. It needed an additional +70us to start (stock DA + 580us). That might be due to the FP gauge telling lies.
...and now that I think ab it, if I'm understanding the quote in bold above. That actually corresponds pretty damn close to what the included injector chart is showing. Assuming around 12v at startup. at 12v: 1500 (from sheet)-915(stock value) = 585us. Which is basically what you had global set to (580+ stock injbatteryadj). Might not need to add much global deadtime at all if you up fuel pressure to 43.5 on you AFPR and enter the new fuel adjustment from the calc (1212cc @ 43.5).
 
Well, it gets more complicated than that since it's also using the factory Denso DA table which is still not enough at the lower voltages.

If the FIC table shows 1200 @ 14V, yet 1385 @ 13.5V, an increase of 185us, there's no way it's doing only 1500us at 12V (a further increase of 115us). The gaps in offset increase the lower the voltage you go, so I can't see it requiring 185us extra when voltage drops 0.5V, yet it can drop an additional 1.5V and only require 115us more after that. I bet 12V on these is closer to maybe 1600us or more. Of course, the only time you're seeing that is when you're starting and we have the cranking adjust to help compensate there.. but still.

My global was +580 but that was 14V, not 12V. So whilst the sheet says 1200 at 14V, I was actually running an effective 1275us. That's about 6% larger. Unfortunately, at every stop sign it would also die.

Take my global % as well which wasn't pulling as much fuel as it should, and that 6% becomes even larger (albeit fractionally).

I just realized I'm also a dumbass for plumbing the wastegate incorrectly. That could have been bad but worse yet, that entire time I had vacuum trying to pull the wastegate open with exhaust gas pressure on the other side helping. That'll create some lag. Oh well, given how bad the fuel calibration is, it was probably for the best.

I also don't know how sold I am on the gauge cluster I spent so much time on. Looking to the side on the pillar at least keeps cars ahead in your FOV. Looking down at the instrument cluster area, it's bit more of a distraction. Maybe I just need time to acclimate

I will admit, I did not pay much attention to how much my RPM was dropping when I clutched, if any, as I was more concerned with keeping it running and it was all over the place. Tomorrow I'll be more keen. Maybe there's an even bigger problem.
 
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Well, it gets more complicated than that since it's also using the factory Denso DA table which is still not enough at the lower voltages.

If the FIC table shows 1200 @ 14V, yet 1385 @ 13.5V, an increase of 185us, there's no way it's doing only 1500us at 12V (a further increase of 115us). The gaps in offset increase the lower the voltage you go, so I can't see it requiring 185us extra when voltage drops 0.5V, yet it can drop an additional 1.5V and only require 115us more after that. I bet 12V on these is closer to maybe 1600us or more. Of course, the only time you're seeing that is when you're starting and we have the cranking adjust to help compensate there.. but still.

My global was +580 but that was 14V, not 12V. So whilst the sheet says 1200 at 14V, I was actually running an effective 1275us. That's about 6% larger. Unfortunately, at every stop sign it would also die.

Take my global % as well which wasn't pulling as much fuel as it should, and that 6% becomes even larger (albeit fractionally).

I will admit, I did not pay much attention to how much my RPM was dropping when I clutched, if any, as I was more concerned with keeping it running and it was all over the place. Tomorrow I'll be more keen. Maybe there's an even bigger problem.
Ahh I gotcha now 👍 good luck tomorrow with it, hope to hear how it goes. This is helping me work through my setup as well
 
Yeah I'm starting to wonder what the hell is going on with these injectors on the whole.
@b00zt3d spyd3r is using a global meant for 1000cc, the FIC table, and a deadtime of 75, yet his runs. That global should be just flooding on WOT yet it doesn't. The only way I can see that happening is if the AFPR is set to a higher base pressure (>60psi).
 
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