The other wife

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I love my borescope. Very handy

 

[curt-s]

I love my borescope. Very handy

They've become so affordable, it felt silly not to own one. Whilst i love the idea of an articulating head, I couldn't justify nearly double the cost so I went with this one and it works really well. Even comes with the hook and magnet attachments

DEPSTECH 5'' IPS Screen Borescope, 1080P Dual Lens Endoscope Camera with Light, Split Screen, IP67 Waterproof Inspection Camera, 16.5ft Flexible Snake Cable, 7.9mm Sewer Camera, Duct Wall Scope Camera https://a.co/d/6E6Qm9K

 

[curt-s]

..and it definitely made me think twice about three of my squirters. Readjusted them, burned through another 6 washers, but happier with the result. Sure beats a flashlight and a mirror

So, really, after four hours the only real progress I made was the rear main seal is now in. Too exhausted to put the pan on after all of this.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Further than me bud, keep at it.

 

[curt-s]

stabbed the transmission on, found the fork (a comp clutch forged) rests to the left of center in the window. ACT streetlite @ 0.609, fidanza v2 6 puck & pp, OEM tob..
when I took the trans off last year, there was a nylon washer as a shim.. weird choice by the PO.
the PP fingers are not flat, they have a slight convexness towards the TOB which is normal.

I have two guesses:
1) the ACTs are thinner between the rear of its hub contact area and the top of its step posts. Basically, when installed, the PP fingers are biased more towards the block than an OEM flywheel would allow
2) The geometry of a CC forged fork, especially pivot to finger-to-TOB contact, biases the fork towards the transmission.

a combination of both, even minutely in themselves, would be additive.

I'll have to have another look to see if shimming is really my last resort here.

 

[curt-s]

On @jdxnc's advice with a comp forged fork, added a 0.8mm shim behind the pivot. Made a minor difference, will grab a pic tmrw because I'm famished and tired.

A friend gave me a huge help today getting the trans on and the shortie is back in the bay

 

[jdxnc]

At this point, if it's at least centered, it should be fine. If not, add a thicker shim.

 

[curt-s]

At this point, if it's at least centered, it should be fine. If not, add a thicker shim.

The casting line in the fork is 1 1/8" from the inside window edge on the driver side, 1 1/16" from the passenger side. The actual outside "face" of the fork is opposite, closer to drivers side.



For me to get the middle of the fork into the middle of the window (@2.75cm) it would leave a gap between the TOB and the pp fingers as such

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Are you using the new boroscope.

 

[curt-s]

Are you using the new boroscope.

Whenever I can, the borescope has proven quite useful. That pic was flashlight and phone camera.

I'm soldiering on here, taking the bumper off to start work on putting the new b&m oil cooler in..

 

[curt-s]

Tried to mock up the oil cooler but decided to do something else with the bracketry so that more of the cooler sits in the old fog light spot.

Also found that my 1/2NPT-10AN fittings only go about 4 threads down into this B&M 70273 cooler. Strange, I swapped fittings and spots, both the same. So either the b&m is cut wrong or both my fittings are.

Or the coiler just doesn't use all the threads Holley gave it.

@jdxnc does that fork position look like your customers' or am I back to square 1.5? I can't center the fork exactly middle of window to middle of fork body, not without a massive gap at the tob.

I redid my pressure plate before we put it all together again just because I wasn't 100% happy with the disc alignment. This time the trans just slipped right on.

 

[jdxnc]

I think it will be ok where it's at, it's not ideal but I think it will function correctly.

 

[curt-s]

I think it will be ok where it's at, it's not ideal but I think it will function correctly.

It's my hope that after a bit of material is taken off the clutch, it'll be in an even better spot, but that's a long way off and I'm not taking anything more than tenths for a good while. There's just no physical way I can get it exactly centered without throwing the dice and going to a completely new clutch. I don't think even taking 2 thousandths off the flywheel surface to increase step height is going to magically move that fork end into position. You can see how much gap there is between the TOB and pp fingers for a centered fork end. It must be the fork geometry itself.

Are the starter plates exactly the same thickness 1g vs 2g? That would also change pivot-to-block distance.

Hell, I could gain a few thousandths for the whole thing just by tapping the crankshaft sprocket bolt to increase the gap between the crank and bearing thrust surfaces. That would move the fork towards the driver side, albeit not by much.
So. Many. Variables.

Of course, a great test will be "can I get it into reverse from idle whilst the engine is running"

 

[jdxnc]

I've never noticed any difference in the starter plate thickness. It's not super critical. Once it's running test for clutch drag and go from there.

 

[curt-s]

I've never noticed any difference in the starter plate thickness. It's not super critical. Once it's running test for clutch drag and go from there.

Indeed, just didn't want to drop the trans each time but I recall reading somewhere on here that it's possible to shim without dropping.
Though you're guessing at torque value for the pivot ball, it's not rocket science.


Mounted the B&M 70273, looks pretty good in that spot.

Need to pick up 22mm (OFH bypass spring.. plug? Cover? What is it even called..) and 23mm (bspt to -10 for oil cooler) wrenches tmrw long with a bunch of other AN stuff, both 10 and 4 for turbo feed.

Looking to get those axles in before the weekend.

 

[curt-s]

both axles are in, some block stuff bolted on
still don't have the finished cylinder head back yet.. all that's really left before I need it is to reinstall the transfer case, downpipe, and alternator

 

[curt-s]

I got head today


Also, -10 stuff, -4an stuff, 2x MT90 and 1x MTL
Time to clean and assemble the head. Busy weekend ahead *pun*

 

[CrackedDSM]

The clutch fork and transmission stuff is giving me PTSD.

On my comp forged fork I had to shim it too. As I well documented in the nightmare that is my build thread.

I never want to pull a dsm trans again.

 

[curt-s]

Well, head assembly didn't go well.
After some standard lapping, all the interface patterns looked good. But some were a tad lighter than others.. and even after springs went in, E4 left me with this:


So even though the seat interface wasn't oblong and nice and even all around, that's just not a good seal. E2 and E8 had a pinpoint of light of you looked at just the right angle so they need to be fixed as well
Everything else seemed fine, pitch black with a bright flashlight, no light leaking

No idea how this happened on only one but here we are, waiting again until the shop gets their carbide pilot they've ordered.

So, with only a couple small jobs left, made up my -10AN oil cooler lines.

Will have to figure out a place for the horn now.
It comes attached to a bracket that hangs under the frame rail along with the DRL module.

 

[curt-s]

Head's gone back yet again. They used a carbide pilot on the exhaust side because I told then the intake side was fine. I did another test yesterday and I was actually wrong. I'm not sure how you miss seeing light in a pitch black room but I did.
He's gone until next Monday so I'm left doing a project that the wife has wanted done for many months damnit.

 

[curt-s]

Finally made some progress. Head is on
Now to put the rest of the head together and warp speed the remaining bolt ons

 

[curt-s]

Had to remake my cooler lines (shorten and add a 45 in lieu of straight) because I shifted things around after making the first set and they didn't clear the bumper anymore.

Now I need to address my drain with push lock because braided hose ends are too long.

Had to order some tb elbow gaskets since I don't have any.. thought I did. Also, some crush-type turbine outlet gaskets from forcedperformance since there's too much surface imperfection on both my JM Fab flange and the 6851S turbine housing.

 

[curt-s]

Lots of little things but nearing the finish line.

Have to make a new -4an line for remote oil pressure sensor, waiting on FP turbine outlet gaskets which should arrive tomorrow with a hefty FedEx brokerage charge.. then actually mount turbo and Mani for reals, add remaining IC pipes, prime it, timing belt, accessories, and I guess it's ready to start

Not expecting the clutch to disengage given the fork position. Probably going to have to shim it again, but this time in place. How fun.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Love that Tial BOV and the setup. Also making me miss the Cyclone IM but man am I glad I didn't have to fight with it and the stock A/C components.

 

[curt-s]

Well, it's together.

Did a BLT, 28-10psi takes 30 seconds
10-5 takes another 15
Then 5-0 takes another 45 or so

I guess that's ok.

First start should be tomorrow. Wish me luck.