The 14b Drag Race Discussion Thread

[DJ23GSX]

Thanks, that is what I've found too. JNZ seems to have the best pricing on it.

Is this what your looking for?

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - OEM Driveshaft Yoke Repair Kit: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 AWD ONLY

Looks like its about $7 cheaper than JNZ right?

 

[habitatguy187]

Even on street tires you should be able to get that down to the 2.1-2.2 arena.

Have you done this?

Even when I had nice tires, a dual-stage boost switch, and a ton of weight reduction I couldn't break 2.3 60' s. I got to run 15 times in 2 hours one night and just couldn't break a 2.3 60'.

 

[SBstar]

Have you done this?

Even when I had nice tires, a dual-stage boost switch, and a ton of weight reduction I couldn't break 2.3 60' s. I got to run 15 times in 2 hours one night and just couldn't break a 2.3 60'.

Personally? No, but I'm a dsmer with alot of dsmer friends who have done so. Seems like I hit a nerve and I apologize. But it is possible and it will help if it can be attained.

Is this what your looking for?

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - OEM Driveshaft Yoke Repair Kit: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 AWD ONLY

Looks like its about $7 cheaper than JNZ right?

Same part, but JNZ is actually quite abit cheaper.
Transfer Case Recall Kit : JNZ Tuning

 

[Phil1320]

In my experience with FWD DSM's, my average 60' on street tires was 2.3. I think I ran a best of 2.19. The key(at least for me) is to NOT go full throttle in first gear and when you immediately shift to second, sometimes all of second. I used maybe 50-75% throttle-the turbo still comes on fine. Once in the 3rd gear, then I would go 100% full throttle. This was a '90 Laser, K&N, Aircan mod, hollow cat but full stock exhaust, no portwork, MBC with boost at 18psi, back seats and spare tire/tools out. With a 2.37 60' the car went 14.00@102. My other Laser was the same exact mods but had a magnaflow muffler welded in place of the stock muffler. No weight reduction except for 15" slipstreams with fat Yoko AVS, I think 205/65/15's, and was on it's way to a good run at the 2004 Shootout but I had too little fuel in the tank and it sputtered at the top of 3rd, so I shifted to 4th and got back on the gas to a 14.5@95 pass. I was just running for fun....the car made 210 FWHP and 214 TQ at 17 psi, pump gas on Buschur's dyno. That's my .02 on the FWD stuff. I'm sure I've written about it elsewhere or earlier in the thread, but I think it's pertinent here.

I've talked to FP before about their "monster thrust bearing" and potentially doing that to a 14b, apparently they do that to 16g's to help them cope with being pushed so hard. Not exactly a cheap option with rebuild though.

Pulling my exhaust I snapped the stud off the O2 housing, I would've been more careful but I had to get back from the track that night and was in a hurry to get the T-case off. Got that fixed up along with installing the new "used" driveshaft, hopefully this one will hold up, still thinking about ordering new U-joints for it though. I also developed a power steering leak from the rack, so this morning all the power steering stuff got pulled, car is NOT easy to turn with that tiny steering wheel so I may be getting a stock steering wheel from my buddy who just picked up a new shell. I'll be looking around for a manual rack but just surviving with it this way for now. Provided everything holds up I want to get back to the track on wednesday!

That would be a cool upgarde to the 14b for sure.

How are your carrier bearings? New or original? If they are shot obviously there's some unwanted movement there that can contribute to shattering parts.

Good luck tomorrow night!

Well no great update. I couldn't get anything to work no matter what I tried. I made 8 passes with a best of 14.7 @ 97.48 with a 2.393 60'.

My 14.3 @ 101.1 run in San Antonio was a 2.439 60'. Granted it was a different track but ???

Most of my passes were low 15's which was very disappointing and I had the hardest time getting a launch. I was averaging like 2.6 second 60'ers.

It seems like something isn't quite right even though the car feels good.

That's ok don't get discouraged. A long time ago, I lived in Germany and ran around with a bunch of guys in a VW GTI club. These guys were nasty drivers and they were just your everyday people. But, they taught me quite a bit about driving cars well. The number one thing they taught me was that, "you are better than the car," and "don't let the car beat you." I stick by that to this day.

Honestly, if you read what I wrote above, on my best pass ever in my Laser, I ran a 2.37 60'. So, you are in that ballpark to say the least, I think it's what's happening between 60' and 330' that is holding you back. It sounds like alot of tire spin. If not only that, you might be having some bogging issues when shifting to the next gear. Keep in mind that a quicker 60' doesn't always guarantee a better 1/4 ET. You had a better launch, that we know, but maybe when you shifted 1-2 or 2-3 it was at a less optimal rpm. That's why if it's at all possible, try to get a glance at the tach if you can so you can write down when you shifted on the back of that timeslip, then try a different shift point and see if there is a gain or a loss. And you may "feel" the difference, better or worse, and be able to make adjustments from there. And, naturally, the timeslip should show what you felt on that pass.

Unfortunately I'm not there to see your runs and let you know what I see, but, I would start by getting tire pressures down a bit up front, I might have run as low at 18 or so. And then I would run near max press in the rear, so 40-44 psi.
Work from there, you will most likely still spin the tires because they are harder and have stiffer sidewalls than a slick or drag radial. Then it's matter of deciding what rpm to launch at and what throttle level to be at in order to keep the spin controlled and not bog -OR- spin excessively once in second gear. It really takes some concentration and trial and error....and you will get it. Launching any FWD or RWD car with decent power on street tires takes some pretty good skill. I remember how tough it was the first time I launched my Laser at the strip. I launched way too high, maybe 4500 rpm spun like crazy and ran 16.0@95 with like a 2.75 60'. So, after that happend, my second pass I just launched right off idle, with no foot on the gas at all. Just by doing that, the car went 15.1@96. So, .9 just by backing up my enthusiasm for that second pass. Then I started to play with launch rpm and throttle control and I think I made 4 more passes the best a 14.66@97. At this time the car had the K&N with open aircan, no air silencer and was at 13psi blowing through the full stock exhaust with cat intact.

Generally, when I'm at the track, it's all business these days. So, when I'm there, I generally have someone watching my passes. Looking for what the car did, i.e., tire spin?, what the slicks are doing, what suspension is doing, was the car sideways? ETC. Then I take that info and use it to adjust tire pressure, suspension settings, and alignment. It would help if you had a friend there with you that has a decent understanding of drag racing and vehicle dynamics to help you out and compare info to your timeslips. Sure you should feel alot of what the vehicle is doing on your own from the driver's seat, but, things happen fast in 1/4 passes and it always helps to have more eggs in the basket.

So, you can do it. It might just take some time. Don't touch the car, you say it's running well. Just concentrate on the driving and set-up. I was having alot of fun with my FWD at back then as it presented a new challenge to me after running only AWD for 4 years before that. I have some pics around and the timeslips as well, I'll look for them and post them for your reference, but hopefully you'll have made some progress by then. Good Luck

Oh, one last thing, no texting while launching, I wait til I hit 4th gear

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

In my experience with FWD DSM's, my average 60' on street tires was 2.3. I think I ran a best of 2.19. The key(at least for me) is to NOT go full throttle in first gear and when you immediately shift to second, sometimes all of second. I used maybe 50-75% throttle-the turbo still comes on fine. Once in the 3rd gear, then I would go 100% full throttle. This was a '90 Laser, K&N, Aircan mod, hollow cat but full stock exhaust, no portwork, MBC with boost at 18psi, back seats and spare tire/tools out. With a 2.37 60' the car went 14.00@102. My other Laser was the same exact mods but had a magnaflow muffler welded in place of the stock muffler. No weight reduction except for 15" slipstreams with fat Yoko AVS, I think 205/65/15's, and was on it's way to a good run at the 2004 Shootout but I had too little fuel in the tank and it sputtered at the top of 3rd, so I shifted to 4th and got back on the gas to a 14.5@95 pass. I was just running for fun....the car made 210 FWHP and 214 TQ at 17 psi, pump gas on Buschur's dyno. That's my .02 on the FWD stuff. I'm sure I've written about it elsewhere or earlier in the thread, but I think it's pertinent here.



That would be a cool upgarde to the 14b for sure.

How are your carrier bearings? New or original? If they are shot obviously there's some unwanted movement there that can contribute to shattering parts.

Good luck tomorrow night!



That's ok don't get discouraged. A long time ago, I lived in Germany and ran around with a bunch of guys in a VW GTI club. These guys were nasty drivers and they were just your everyday people. But, they taught me quite a bit about driving cars well. The number one thing they taught me was that, "you are better than the car," and "don't let the car beat you." I stick by that to this day.

Honestly, if you read what I wrote above, on my best pass ever in my Laser, I ran a 2.37 60'. So, you are in that ballpark to say the least, I think it's what's happening between 60' and 330' that is holding you back. It sounds like alot of tire spin. If not only that, you might be having some bogging issues when shifting to the next gear. Keep in mind that a quicker 60' doesn't always guarantee a better 1/4 ET. You had a better launch, that we know, but maybe when you shifted 1-2 or 2-3 it was at a less optimal rpm. That's why if it's at all possible, try to get a glance at the tach if you can so you can write down when you shifted on the back of that timeslip, then try a different shift point and see if there is a gain or a loss. And you may "feel" the difference, better or worse, and be able to make adjustments from there. And, naturally, the timeslip should show what you felt on that pass.

Unfortunately I'm not there to see your runs and let you know what I see, but, I would start by getting tire pressures down a bit up front, I might have run as low at 18 or so. And then I would run near max press in the rear, so 40-44 psi.
Work from there, you will most likely still spin the tires because they are harder and have stiffer sidewalls than a slick or drag radial. Then it's matter of deciding what rpm to launch at and what throttle level to be at in order to keep the spin controlled and not bog -OR- spin excessively once in second gear. It really takes some concentration and trial and error....and you will get it. Launching any FWD or RWD car with decent power on street tires takes some pretty good skill. I remember how tough it was the first time I launched my Laser at the strip. I launched way too high, maybe 4500 rpm spun like crazy and ran 16.0@95 with like a 2.75 60'. So, after that happend, my second pass I just launched right off idle, with no foot on the gas at all. Just by doing that, the car went 15.1@96. So, .9 just by backing up my enthusiasm for that second pass. Then I started to play with launch rpm and throttle control and I think I made 4 more passes the best a 14.66@97. At this time the car had the K&N with open aircan, no air silencer and was at 13psi blowing through the full stock exhaust with cat intact.

Generally, when I'm at the track, it's all business these days. So, when I'm there, I generally have someone watching my passes. Looking for what the car did, i.e., tire spin?, what the slicks are doing, what suspension is doing, was the car sideways? ETC. Then I take that info and use it to adjust tire pressure, suspension settings, and alignment. It would help if you had a friend there with you that has a decent understanding of drag racing and vehicle dynamics to help you out and compare info to your timeslips. Sure you should feel alot of what the vehicle is doing on your own from the driver's seat, but, things happen fast in 1/4 passes and it always helps to have more eggs in the basket.

So, you can do it. It might just take some time. Don't touch the car, you say it's running well. Just concentrate on the driving and set-up. I was having alot of fun with my FWD at back then as it presented a new challenge to me after running only AWD for 4 years before that. I have some pics around and the timeslips as well, I'll look for them and post them for your reference, but hopefully you'll have made some progress by then. Good Luck

Oh, one last thing, no texting while launching, I wait til I hit 4th gear

Haha, I promise I wasn't texting! Thanks, Phil you are very encouraging! I had lowered my front tire pressure. Last time it was 32 (I believe), and this time I had lowered it to 27. The rears were both 31.

In San Antonio I was launching at 3,500 RPMs, this time at 3,500 I was bogging so I launched higher at 4,000 and sometimes it worked good (my 2.3) and others I would spin.

I ran a 2.2 once with my Eclipse back when it was a 4G63 n/t so I know that it is possible. That was with stock tire size, 205/55R16. Now I am using Dodge Avenger stock wheels in 215/50ZR17. I'm thinking about going with a 225/45ZR17 that is a little wider but I'm still not sure how that would work with the 6.5" wide Avenger wheels. I have heard mixed reviews on this site and talking to guys at tire shops. I would love to have a set of EVO 8 rims with 235's but I'm saving my money for my honeymoon in January.

I tried turning up my boost the other night at the track. I stared the day at 14 psi and hit a best of 14.928 @ 96.35. The I turned it up to 15 psi and hit a best of 14.757 @ 97.48. After that I got it up to 16 psi but only ran a best of 15.010 @ 99.55. Also on that last run my AFR was getting a little high, mid 11's, so I turned it back down. In San Antonio it was 14 all day long.

Also I'm kind of worried that my factory SMIC is getting heatsoaked and restricting me. I try to give it at least 30 minutes between passes but I'm not sure if that is enough or not.

I'm not going to give up, but I think I am going to wait to until next season to go again. By then I will have DSMlink and can see what's going on with my engine and hopefully a FMIC so I won't have to worry about heatsoak. I am always up for pointers though and I really appreciate all of your. Thanks again!

 

[Phil1320]

Haha, I promise I wasn't texting! Thanks, Phil you are very encouraging! I had lowered my front tire pressure. Last time it was 32 (I believe), and this time I had lowered it to 27. The rears were both 31.

In San Antonio I was launching at 3,500 RPMs, this time at 3,500 I was bogging so I launched higher at 4,000 and sometimes it worked good (my 2.3) and others I would spin.

I ran a 2.2 once with my Eclipse back when it was a 4G63 n/t so I know that it is possible. That was with stock tire size, 205/55R16. Now I am using Dodge Avenger stock wheels in 215/50ZR17. I'm thinking about going with a 225/45ZR17 that is a little wider but I'm still not sure how that would work with the 6.5" wide Avenger wheels. I have heard mixed reviews on this site and talking to guys at tire shops. I would love to have a set of EVO 8 rims with 235's but I'm saving my money for my honeymoon in January.

I tried turning up my boost the other night at the track. I stared the day at 14 psi and hit a best of 14.928 @ 96.35. The I turned it up to 15 psi and hit a best of 14.757 @ 97.48. After that I got it up to 16 psi but only ran a best of 15.010 @ 99.55. Also on that last run my AFR was getting a little high, mid 11's, so I turned it back down. In San Antonio it was 14 all day long.

Also I'm kind of worried that my factory SMIC is getting heatsoaked and restricting me. I try to give it at least 30 minutes between passes but I'm not sure if that is enough or not.

I'm not going to give up, but I think I am going to wait to until next season to go again. By then I will have DSMlink and can see what's going on with my engine and hopefully a FMIC so I won't have to worry about heatsoak. I am always up for pointers though and I really appreciate all of your. Thanks again!

No prob, anytime. It is definitely a tough task to get the FWD launch down. It's tough to get down feathering of the throttle when you launch with any RPM in order to keep a controlled spin going for the optimal launch. If you don't have a little spin the car will bog, too much spin and you will lose time, and when you shift to the next gear most likely bog as well. It really is a fine line. A 225 tire will work on your 6.5" wheel. I ran 225's on stock 6" wheels for a while--not optimal for cornering, but for straight line no biggie. Going to the 225/45 will give you less sidewall, generally worse for traction, but may help you control the spin better as you'll have more feedback from them. If I missed the answers to these quesitons somewhere, sorry:

Do you have upgrade motor mounts? Upgrade urethane front control arm bushings? A left side AWD axle with carrier bolted to the engine block? Upgrade urethane front subframe bushings?

These are some things that will help your control on the launch. Not too expensive, a bit time consuming to install, but worth it for sure.

Glad to hear you weren't texting

Oh, and as much as I can provide some insight here from my own minimal experiences, I'm no pro at this. I used to drag race my front wheel drive supercharged Ford Focus and was running 225/45/17 Yokohama Parada Spec 2 tires and could run consistent 2.1-2.2 60' times with that, but the power was broader in that car than the FWD DSM. It also had extremely long gearing for economy which aided in a decent launch. My first Laser(14.00) was running American Racing 16 X 7 with 225/50/16 Yokohama A509.

So, if you don't have some of the above items and can do them, they will help for sure. Otherwise, as I stated before, just spend as much time at the track as possible.

And, last, if you were to consider a drag radial, I remember some of the FWD guys talking about the BFGoodrich being the one to use. I still have the Nitto Drags on my street wheels and they did ok for a while until I stiffened the chassis and suspension, but I wouldn't recommend them for your purposes.

Ok, well, I see you may wait til next year to go again, that's cool, I'm sure you'll do better...your trap speed on the 14.3 pass - 101 - is good enough power to put you in the 13's. I knew if I threw a drag radial on my Laser and ran 2.1 to the 60', that a 13.6-13.7 pass was possible. So, a goal of 13's would be reasonable and attainable for you as far as I can see.

 

[SBstar]

Wow, wish I had some really good news, but even with a new personal best this evening it turned out cruddy. I destroyed another universal joint, fortunately this time it happened on the decel after the run so at least I "made" a pass. There was a pretty good showing for the test-n-tune but I decided to make the first run a warm-up instead of an all out pass. I lowered the launch rpm to 4750 and didn't get on the 2 step until the first yellow lit up so I didn't build more then a psi or two off the line. Ended up with a 1.999 60 ft . But, apparently the weather (around 65 degrees) along with the new tune made for some new power as I passed the traps, 12.471 @ 112.33! But as soon as i let off the gas I felt it give up, unbelievable! I haven't decided exactly how I'm going to fix this one, I can get another stock driveshaft easy enough I suppose, but we'll decide later. Either way there won't be another pass until after the fmic is on so the real "gains" won't be perfectly measured. The only things that make me smile is I've officially surpassed my goals for 2010, and there is a ton left in it if I could just not break things.

EDIT: Forgot to mention I threw it back on the scale after the pass, 2910 with me aboard. Unfortunately that's with nearly 3/4ths a tank of gas since I have to drive it all the way home.

 

[pneumo]

Good job, Shane! Your car has come a long way this year.

 

[SBstar]

Good job, Shane! Your car has come a long way this year.

Thanks Dave! It's frustrating knowing how much I'm leaving on the table, but remembering I've gone from 13.61 last year to a 12.47 this year taking off 1.14 seconds in the 1/4th is nothing to sneeze at. From where I'm sitting now the driveshaft will be fixed, the fmic installed, and there will probably be one last track outing. My area switches to E-70 in October and I'm not sure I can keep the tune where it's at with that mixture. Sorry buddy but the only goal now is 12.41 or better to pass Travis to end this season, knowing there is a very low 12 in it somehere!

 

[Phil1320]

Congrats on meeting your 2010 goal Shane! That's great! That's a great ET for that 60'. It looks to me like you can get close to 12.0 with a 1.7X 60', hell, you may be able to tip into the 11's. I'm stumped at why you are breaking universals though.....

....I asked above but how are your carrier bearings?
....do you have rear subrame bushings and mustache brace bushings?

 

[SBstar]

Carrier bearings aren't too bad on this particular driveshaft, from what I'm assuming on this one, one of the c-clips (name?) wasn't seated properly and the bearing cap (again name?) came out of the driveshaft. It didn't technically break, more like "user error" . Unfortunately that caused the driveshaft to come apart and it looks like the end is totally messed up from smacking the pavement.

I do not yet have mustache & subframe bushings, need to invest in those.

 

[Phil1320]

Carrier bearings aren't too bad on this particular driveshaft, from what I'm assuming on this one, one of the c-clips (name?) wasn't seated properly and the bearing cap (again name?) came out of the driveshaft. It didn't technically break, more like "user error" . Unfortunately that caused the driveshaft to come apart and it looks like the end is totally messed up from smacking the pavement.

I do not yet have mustache & subframe bushings, need to invest in those.

Damn, that sucks! the rear bushings and rear toe eliminator are key to get rid of all the slop back there. Then all the power goes to the ground instead of being absorbed through all the excessive movement.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

No prob, anytime. It is definitely a tough task to get the FWD launch down. It's tough to get down feathering of the throttle when you launch with any RPM in order to keep a controlled spin going for the optimal launch. If you don't have a little spin the car will bog, too much spin and you will lose time, and when you shift to the next gear most likely bog as well. It really is a fine line. A 225 tire will work on your 6.5" wheel. I ran 225's on stock 6" wheels for a while--not optimal for cornering, but for straight line no biggie. Going to the 225/45 will give you less sidewall, generally worse for traction, but may help you control the spin better as you'll have more feedback from them. If I missed the answers to these quesitons somewhere, sorry:

Do you have upgrade motor mounts? Upgrade urethane front control arm bushings? A left side AWD axle with carrier bolted to the engine block? Upgrade urethane front subframe bushings?

These are some things that will help your control on the launch. Not too expensive, a bit time consuming to install, but worth it for sure.

Glad to hear you weren't texting

Oh, and as much as I can provide some insight here from my own minimal experiences, I'm no pro at this. I used to drag race my front wheel drive supercharged Ford Focus and was running 225/45/17 Yokohama Parada Spec 2 tires and could run consistent 2.1-2.2 60' times with that, but the power was broader in that car than the FWD DSM. It also had extremely long gearing for economy which aided in a decent launch. My first Laser(14.00) was running American Racing 16 X 7 with 225/50/16 Yokohama A509.

So, if you don't have some of the above items and can do them, they will help for sure. Otherwise, as I stated before, just spend as much time at the track as possible.

And, last, if you were to consider a drag radial, I remember some of the FWD guys talking about the BFGoodrich being the one to use. I still have the Nitto Drags on my street wheels and they did ok for a while until I stiffened the chassis and suspension, but I wouldn't recommend them for your purposes.

Ok, well, I see you may wait til next year to go again, that's cool, I'm sure you'll do better...your trap speed on the 14.3 pass - 101 - is good enough power to put you in the 13's. I knew if I threw a drag radial on my Laser and ran 2.1 to the 60', that a 13.6-13.7 pass was possible. So, a goal of 13's would be reasonable and attainable for you as far as I can see.

I've had all 4 Prothane motor mount inserts for the past 5 or so years. I just upgraded my front control arms and rear track arm buschings to the Energy Suspension ones back on page 24 of this thread based on your recommendation.

Just a little update, I replaced the front control arm bushings, rear track arm bushings, and the front ball joints. I will see if I can knock a little off my 60' and sneak into the 13's. I've also replaced my throttle body shaft seals which were the source of a rather significant boost leak. I should be at the local track next Sunday, August 8th.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Energy Suspension control arm bushings.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The old bushings, boot, and ball joints.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I made a few other minor changes since my 14.3 pass. Buschur Racing heat shield, eliminated cruise control, low mounted the battery, and replaced the leaking throttle body shaft seals.

I have never heard anything about using a left AWD axle with carrier bolted to the engine block. What is that all about?

By the time next year comes around I can see getting some slicks or drag radials just to use at the track. I've been really impressed with some of the FWD times over on the FWD drag race discussion thread. Lots of 11's with FWD which is very impressive. My end goal (for now at least) is mid 12's, but thats not on the 14b. I'll use the 14b as long as I can, the turbo is going to be the last thing I upgrade, and when I do upgrade I'm planning on going with a 20g.

 

[Phil1320]

I've had all 4 Prothane motor mount inserts for the past 5 or so years. I just upgraded my front control arms and rear track arm buschings to the Energy Suspension ones back on page 24 of this thread based on your recommendation.



I have never heard anything about using a left AWD axle with carrier bolted to the engine block. What is that all about?

By the time next year comes around I can see getting some slicks or drag radials just to use at the track. I've been really impressed with some of the FWD times over on the FWD drag race discussion thread. Lots of 11's with FWD which is very impressive. My end goal (for now at least) is mid 12's, but thats not on the 14b. I'll use the 14b as long as I can, the turbo is going to be the last thing I upgrade, and when I do upgrade I'm planning on going with a 20g.

Sorry, so much up here that I honestly get confused about what I read about who.... and damn, it was even my recommendation

Some FWD guys use the AWD axle which essentially gives you two equal length axles rather than that super long left side and is supposed to deliver power to the ground better and help eliminate torque steer.

I think you can get into the 12's on the 14b, it's just a matter of how long you want to dabble with it. 20g would be cool, I like that turbo alot actually. Well, keep us posted and good luck!

 

[SBR Joe]

So, gotta start out, im pretty bummed. First pass of the night, car was breaking up and the right rear caliper was hanging up, 12.7@107 with a 1.92 60'. BLAH. It was a bit fat up top so i pulled about 4% of fuel out, and next pass it cleaned up ALOT, also the caliper un froze got a 1.825 60' and went 12.32@111, little better. Next pass was a hot lap and car was overheating a tad off the line, so it knocked a bit, 12.41@110, ok i guess, again with a 1.83 60', car was spinning so bad off the line.

Get a cool down lap in, next round...best one of the night. 1.802 60', bottomed out the boost controller and held about 2 psi more, 12.19@114.

Every lap after that i was stuck in the left lane which is horrible, has a crack in it and when launching it makes the car hop, so on top of spinning like crazy as it got colder, hitting the crack kicked the ass out, so the next 2-3 passes were a consistent 12.3-12.4@111 ish. Again, hot lapping and idiots taking forever to stage so it was coming out pretty heat soaked.

Point blank, i need slicks. If i would have ran even a 1.75 60' i would have been in the 11.90's. It just wouldnt hook. Plans are to weld the center diff and find some sticky rubber. I need to get teh head redone because 1 almost dead cylinder isnt helping. Also, im going to get some adjustable cam gears, i need to stretch the top end power out and advance the intake cam a few degrees to make up for any lost boost, and shim the actuator more to maintain higher levels. The cam degreeing alone will get me about 30whp respectively, i know this from everything ive done with cam timing before. I dont know, i guess its not that bad considering, i just really wanted to see an 11 and i was so effin close, if the sun was shining more today i would have, track was just too cold to hook. Oh well, i will try and hurry this up and get back ONE more time before the tracks close. If not, ill be spending some one on one time with it a lot this winter.

EDIT: PS, this was all done on winter tires running about 25psi of pressure.

 

[pneumo]

Good report, Joe. You're making steady progress each time out. The MPH shows some good power.

When I was going for the 14b record I hit a best of 12.0 my first time out. I was going to the track every 2 weeks for 3 months while testing and changing mods, tune, eproms, suspension, everything! It was some hardcore R+D for sure.

FYI I was able to cut consistant 1.5 to 1.6 60' times with my BFG Drag Radials, they're very sticky tires with just enough slip so driveline parts don't break.

Coincidentally I'm moving on to full slicks as we speak (write?) My tires were just dismounted today (hint, hint) and they're still in great shape since I only used them on the track, no street miles.

 

[SBstar]

Ship those over to me Dave!

I agree Joe, as I said in your thread, as long as you're improving and learning that's the important part. Just like me, if you could hook it'll go alot faster (although it's more so if I didn't break these last two times). 11's on the 14b is elite territory, it'd be cool to see you get there this year, I wouldn't mind hitting it myself!

 

[TSimage]

Lol, how much you tryin' to get for those BFGs Dave?

On a side note, I ordered the battery so I should have the laptop up and running by next week. Wont be ready for the track but I suppose I can at least get started. If you get bored and feel like coming out to Sac this weekend, I'll pay for yer gas of course to get this thing running, it'd be nice to have this thing running so I can drive it to school next week .


I wonder if you sent over your 16g tune if I'd be able to tweak that for the 14b be removing some fuel here and there. My car seems to be like yours and only likes low timing. Itd be nice to hit test n tune Saturday, the tracks are normally prepped nice before CMI events.

We got an 11.9 to run ... 11.9 without the meth would be badass..

 

[pneumo]

Ship those over to me Dave!

OK just ship out some cash!

Josh, I just remembered that your GVR4 comes with 15" rims, a perfect match!

Let's take this to PM's and keep it legal.

 

[SBR Joe]

Ship those over to me Dave!

I agree Joe, as I said in your thread, as long as you're improving and learning that's the important part. Just like me, if you could hook it'll go alot faster (although it's more so if I didn't break these last two times). 11's on the 14b is elite territory, it'd be cool to see you get there this year, I wouldn't mind hitting it myself!

Yes me too. I just need to shave a mere tenth off the 60 and ill be there. Also keep in mind, i NEVER drive this car. Its the second time its been at the track EVER, and each time, with a different setup....

 

[Phil1320]

Yes me too. I just need to shave a mere tenth off the 60 and ill be there. Also keep in mind, i NEVER drive this car. Its the second time its been at the track EVER, and each time, with a different setup....

Get more seat time. Leave the car alone. Just do it.

 

[SBR Joe]

Get more seat time. Leave the car alone. Just do it.

Not until i advance that intake cam gear and get some tires. Not to toot my own horn but im a good enough driver, it was about as consistent as i could get every pass, i was just limited to a few things. Ill come back with more power, and better shit and get equipment, and pull the "third times a charm" card haha

 

[Phil1320]

Not until i advance that intake cam gear and get some tires. Not to toot my own horn but im a good enough driver, it was about as consistent as i could get every pass, i was just limited to a few things. Ill come back with more power, and better shit and get equipment, and pull the "third times a charm" card haha

Obviously there are a few things you want to update. But as far as more power the next time, now you have to learn the car again if it's significant enough. And, the car has shown some good speed. But, it's your "quest," so you have to do it your way.

Hopefully, "third times a charm."

 

[SBR Joe]

Obviously there are a few things you want to update. But as far as more power the next time, now you have to learn the car again if it's significant enough. And, the car has shown some good speed. But, it's your "quest," so you have to do it your way.

Hopefully, "third times a charm."

One loooove baby...one looooove.

I just get pissed and i gotta come back with some realness. And that, i will.

 

[Nate Crisman]

When's your next track date planned? (Im real interested in hearing you say that you think cam gears are worth a significant gain...I'v never used them and was thinking of picking up a set)