Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[34tftf]

what were the break in pulls you were doing? Also does the starter engage when you try to turn it over? Does it bog out on acceleration? Does it crank over but won't fire? Do the rpm's jump around when it's driving? Did you change the fuel filter? Is the pump working? These are some undetermined variables that need addressed. IMO it sounds like either the engine ground wire came off or their is something in the fuel system.

 

[edged1g]

what were the break in pulls you were doing? Also does the starter engage when you try to turn it over? Does it bog out on acceleration? Does it crank over but won't fire? Do the rpm's jump around when it's driving? Did you change the fuel filter? Is the pump working? These are some undetermined variables that need addressed. IMO it sounds like either the engine ground wire came off or their is something in the fuel system.

The break in pulls i was doing were third gear pulls from 3k-5.5k or 6k as it is said to do. The pulls went fine. The starter seems to engage when i turn it but it cranks really slow and doesn't seem to be trying to fire. What do you mean do the rpms jump when driving? The fuel filter is brand new, along with all the fuel lines and the gas tank was removed, cleaned, and fresh gas added. i checked the pump with DSMlink and it is working.

 

[mitsu_matt]

Did you check voltage on the battery? Is your ground good? Will it start with a jump or does it still do the same thing?

 

[34tftf]

by rpm jump i mean when you are driving do the rpms move around all over the place. but with what you said i would check your grounds as well as your starter wires

 

[edged1g]

Did you check voltage on the battery? Is your ground good? Will it start with a jump or does it still do the same thing?

I checked voltage at the battery after the car was off, still had 12.3 volts. I didn't get a chance to check with it running.

by rpm jump i mean when you are driving do the rpms move around all over the place. but with what you said i would check your grounds as well as your starter wires

No the rpms didn't jump around while i was on it. And i didn't let it idle because it was the first start and you shouldn't let it idle. I will have to check all the grounds.

 

[34tftf]

simple question but it can happen: do you have any gas in the tank?

 

[phunny]

Verify timing and do a boost leak test.

 

[UCF201101]

Check the connections that lead to the starter and your grounds. If this doesn't help, you can place a volt meter on your battery and it should read 12 volts. Hope this helps...

 

[93xsg]

I know this is an old thread...but in a 1g the key has to be in "start" position for fuel pump to come on, not the "on" position

 

[Infamous33]

Sounding like an ignition switch/lock cylinder issue here.
If the switch is shorting internally it could cause the starter to 'run on' if it doesn't cause a big enough short to ground to blow that fuse again.

 

[Infamous33]

In the vid. it sounds like the starter. If your battery voltage is good, try this:
Connect the neg lead of your volt meter to ground and check the power to the positive cable at the starter. Make sure it shows around battery voltage.
Next, touch the pos. lead to the small signal wire at the solenoid. There should be battery voltage on this wire when cranking. If it is around batt. volt. I would start calling around for a starter.
If there is no voltage when holding the key in the crank position, you have another issue.

 

[taubrygsx99]

Thank you for all the help guys. i was going out of move my car out of the snow on Sunday by cranking the engine with the car in reverse. i did so and it just plowed through the 3 feet of snow behind it. i was then going to test the solenoid, but as i went to move the car back a little further, i forgot to take it out of neutral and when i cranked it it started right up. no explanation as to what actually went wrong, or why it started again but now it starts right up every time and runs awesome. i swear DSM's have a mind of their own.

 

[Infamous33]

Not sure if you have this fixed yet or not, I have been busy and got knocked down by last weekends snow storm....
If you are still hanging, here are the tests you should be doing:
1. Unplug A106 connector at the ecu and unplug the coil pack conn.
2. Set your DVOM to ohms (100 or so scale should work fine here if you don't have an auto-ranging meter)
3. Connect one lead of your DVOM to pin #2 at A106 and the other lead to pin #3 at the coil pack
Does the meter show somewhere around .3 ohms? If it is showing OL or dashes-broken wire.
Keep in mind, I am unsure of which side of the coil is which as I don't have one in front of me.
4. If resistance shows good, repeat step 3 between pin #3 at A106 and pin #1 at the CP.

If you find that one of the wires shows open, you can either trace that wire for a break/corrosion or you can just run another wire in between the 2 pins.
Should you choose to run a new wire, cut the original wire a few inches away from the connector to give yourself room to work and do yourself a favor. Solder and heat shrink the repairs. Water will wick in even through electrical tape and cause more problems down the road.
Good luck, and follow up with this if you could

 

[PFC_CiarlilloM]

@Infamous33 Thanks what makes you say that? and what are some ways I can test it out? or where would you start?

 

[edged1g]

UPDATE:

I pulled the timing cover off and the cams weren't turning while i was turning the crank.

So i pulled the lower timing cover off and found

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The timing belt basically separated from the backing. So i started checking the pulleys and found the oil pump sprocket was seized. I cant even turn it with a ratchet. Brand new motor built by JNZ tuning. Had 10 miles on it.

What could cause this? The was plenty of oil pressure while it was running. Oil level was good, didn't overheat, nothing. There was no warning sign at all.

 

[obsidian]

Wow. Talk to JNZ and see what they say. Maybe the oil pump just didn't like something and seized up. You're going to have to pull the head just to double/triple check no valve damage and get ready to find out what the hell happened to the oil pump.

 

[Infamous33]

I am assuming it is a pink 30A fuse that is giving you problems? Which fuse number is it?
Looking at the fuse box
#4 is in the top right corner
then the row of fuses goes like this #5-green, #6 pink, #7 pink, #8 yellow, #9 pink
You may not have all of them....
Let me know which one and we can chase down that circuit.

 

[josh90laser]

ok so its been getting fuel the whole time, but spark comes from the plug wires and plugs but have to be REALLY secure on the spark plug or it wont spark.. spark kinda seems weak


pulled all the plugs and put them and it has some e3 plugs


fuel pressure is fine?


fuel pressure regulator bad? broke? the knob on the back with the vacuum going to it have to be turned any special way?




but i know it will get a spark of some kind, and i know its getting fuel of some kind.. who knows if its perfect, but its getting it.


i was able to get it to start to turn over then it just kinda putted and putted and wouldnt fully turn over and keep and idle and start

 

[BoosTNThreshold]

Is this a 1G? If so has the timing belt been changed or CAS been messed with at all? It's sounds like it could be timed wrong.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[HustlerTalon]

have you checked the compression on all cylinders?

 

[PFC_CiarlilloM]

@Infamous33 Yes it is the 30a fuse. When I get home I will take a picture and circle which one just for a better idea.

I have a black outline around the 30a ignition fuseable link and added a couple more pictures if that helps out at all.

Additional Info:
I have replaced all relays (fuel pump, ASD, then there are two others next to it.. my book doesnt say. Might be transmission, then starter?) Re-wired/Re-routed my negative and positive/ new terminal posts/new battery/new starter.

 

[josh90laser]

I haven't messed with cas or timing belt. But when I got it was hard to start then too but would eventually kick over if you held pedal to the floor.

Compression was all within 5ish psi from each other I couldn't tell how to check time on this thing
But ill try that also

I was guessing these e3 plugs are shyt or fouled
So ima get some normal plugs and see....

Any other ideas?

 

[BurrowZ]

Get some NGK BPR6ES plugs. Those are the highest recommended plug for stock or close to stock DSMs.

If that doesn't help, check your timing marks on the crank and cam gears. Make sure the belt is taught and not loose.

If that's on, check for huge vacuum leaks. I actually once had a washer in between my intake manifold and head that I somehow left there and it would fire up but badly.

You said compression, fuel and spark are all there. The above suggestions should land you a start.

 

[Abe'sGST]

like mentioned above check your timing belt and marks, check your ingnition coil then wires and plugs

 

[josh90laser]

Get some NGK BPR6ES plugs. Those are the highest recommended plug for stock or close to stock DSMs.

If that doesn't help, check your timing marks on the crank and cam gears. Make sure the belt is taught and not loose.

If that's on, check for huge vacuum leaks. I actually once had a washer in between my intake manifold and head that I somehow left there and it would fire up but badly.

You said compression, fuel and spark are all there. The above suggestions should land you a start.

Just got the ngk you said. What about gap?