Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[troppo loungo]

It didn't listen to the sound bit but it could be the starter or slipping belt or crank pulley.

 

[BurrowZ]

Sounds weird, like you're not getting spark and causing it to flood, and leaking out the headgasket? That badly though?

I am pretty lost on this one. We need a wiseman.

 

[gofer]

The ECU's injector driver circuit could be bad and holding open the injectors, rather than pulsing them, which would flood the motor. Pull the fuel rail and rest a 5 gallon bucket on top the of the engine, have someone crank the motor while you watch the injectors. Make sure each and everyone of them is PULSING, not just dumping fuel.

Don't keep trying it, especially if its coming out of the exhaust side. That means you're filling the CC up with fuel and its coming back up through the exhaust valves and leaking out of the ex. manifold. You'll wash your cylinder walls and seize the motor up, you'll also want to change the oil once you fix the issue.

 

[BurrowZ]

Just got the ngk you said. What about gap?

I gap 'em to .025 but I'm running some more boost.. you should try .028.

And use a feeler gauge, NOT a round spark plug gapper.

 

[ebonyswan]

I'm wondering about blockages or issues in your piping - if you had the SMIC disconnected, then the car was drawing air directly into the throttlebody and not pulling it in through the maf.

Also with everything hooked up you could try unplugging the MAF and seeing what happens - when I had issues with my MAF it would actually start and run without the MAF plugged in and would not run with the MAF plugged in.

 

[ebonyswan]

Exactly as gofer says, there could be an issue with the ECU. I bought a 1990 laser rs for $500 that was non-running and when I drained the oil I drained 9 liters of oil/gas. The ECU had failed on that car and was running the injectors wide-open at all times and like you gas was dripping out the exhaust manifold.

Replacing the ECU and the coilpack fixed the problem - coilpack was unrelated to the fuel problem but it had gone bad as well.

 

[drooseph]

All the injectors are pulsing and not just stuck open (i have done what you and kris suggested), but I have access to another ecu and will try that next. And thanks for the info on changing the oil I would not have thought of that.

 

[etay89]

Okay, I will be very detailed in this question because before I go dumping money like I usually do, I want atleast a good direction before carrying on trying to get it started.

Moving along, I had a 99 GSX and a 97 GST. The GSX was my car and running but had a serious rust problem, so I nominated to do an AWD swap to a donor 97 GST. The mods on the GSX were a simple K&N filter, 3" Megan exhaust, NGK plugs and wires and it ran until the last day I took it off the road (which was early June).

The GST was originally a Texas car which sat for around 2 years give or take. The owner took her motor and other random odds and ins, but I kept the remainder.

About 3 weeks ago, I tried to start the car (with no intercooler, radiator, or gas for that matter) and here was the result: Facebook. If you can't see the video, add me on facebook then...and don't mind the Megaman ringtone either.

Anyways, in addition to the AWD swap, I also swapped my motor, and engine harnesses (because I plan to use ecuflash/evoscan/sd for tuning). Now, in addition to the mods listed above, I also added the following (these parts were leftover from her car): walbro hp255 pump, aeromotive afpr and act2600 pp. these parts were brand new: punishment fmic with dodge modded 1g bov, cxracing radiator, sbc clutch disc, and fidanza flywheel. I also did an emissions delete

Now, I tried to start the car and all I get is a single click. I'm trying to figure out why it's not starting. I read this link: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html and I read about the ECT sensor..but the rad is installed with lots of coolant, so i'm not sure about that...so any input is greatly appreciated.

 

[eltitillo]

Check if the starter's getting enough voltage, check if there is good connection one time i forgot to connect the starter signal wire.

 

[etay89]

Check if the starter's getting enough voltage, check if there is good connection one time i forgot to connect the starter signal wire.

I just got a brand new battery and have had it hooked up to a charger. Logging on evoscan, it was at 12.1 volts. same reading on my multimeter

 

[Bo0sTdTsI]

If all ## hearingis a click It might be the anti theft system from the factory acting up, my 1g would do that and ended up being the anti theft being triggered somehow. Anyhow my electrician bypassed it and I haven't had the problem since, migt not be ## prblem but just throwing the idea out there in case because you never know.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Simple click yo me sounds like the starter. Any starter needs 3v tovturn over. Also,12.1 is low for your battery. Any battery should read at least 12.6-12.8. I say try to jump your car, and hit the starter. Lemme know so we can further assist you.

 

[etay89]

with the starter tucked really far down under...any advice? hit it from underneath?

also, I was gonna try replacing the power transistor too. just to confirm, a 91-94 transistor will work with a 2g right?

 

[Cornfed4G64]

I had this happen as well. I forgot to hook up the black prong to the starter. its located on the top of the starter.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

you can move the battery and hit it with hammer sure. Check with a multimeter for voltage to starter. Also forgot to throw in make sure you are getting fuel and spark. Should have mentioned it earlier

 

[99boostedgst]

alright guys im new here my name is dustin.. nice to meet you guys.. i have dislesic so please bare with me... i sold my 1977 ford f-150 4x4 400ci motor with a cam,intake,carb,headers,full flowmaster exuast,and every msd part you would want...i sold that truck for my 1999 gst eclipse. Well when i got it it ran a little ruff outta boost it would spit and spudder but kick hard when in boost. any thoughts? incase it comes back when i finally get it started again. when i was driving home i didnt see the steam coming from the engine bay got off the highway it shut it's self off and then finally seen the steam...opend the hood found out the temp guage was unpluged! let me remind you i only had this car running for 24-36 hrs. but i got it home and found out the radiator hose right by the intake on the back passanger side of the motor, was rubbed by the intake bolt and finally bit the dust!!!! Well i found out the head was toast it melted the plug wires to the head! well i got it off and replaced it with another head from a buddy its a 7 bolt that just came back from the machine shop. mirror finish for the mlc gasket. I got it all put back together,, but now it is just going click when you turn the key just replaced the termanals the battery is good was just starting a 88 ford truck. any thoughts please get back to me im trying to get it running today... would any sensors cause this problem? i do know my knock sensor was broke when i got this car and i grabed it and it broke off...

please help me get this beauty running

thanks a bunch
Dustin

 

[NReinsel]

Did you try taking a look at your neutral safety switch?

 

[Turbotsiawd]

Could he have possibly gotten so hot he ruined the bottom end???

 

[99boostedgst]

Did you try taking a look at your neutral safety switch?

no where is this located at.. thanks

Could he have possibly gotten so hot he ruined the bottom end???

coulda but when it got pulled apart it still cranked over so idk and i honestly think if i coulda got the plug wires out and put new plugs and wires i coulda probley of started it not running to healthy if it did but woulda ran

could the knock sensor not being connected at all to the back of the block have something to do with it????? and also is there anything that i had to line up putting the head back on? crank sensors,cam sensors I NEED SOME SERIOUS HELP HERE GUYS

 

[NReinsel]

Its up under the dash, near the clutch pedal. should be hooked into near the pedal assembly.

 

[99boostedgst]

Its up under the dash, near the clutch pedal. should be hooked into near the pedal assembly.

okay thanks bud!! that would make it click and not start? and just click i never heard of that causing that so thats why im asking

 

[Alan11]

The clutch switch has nothing to do with this. Check you starter, and ignition switch. Was anything done to the block?
If you didn't see the temperatufe gauge move at all why drive the car.

 

[johnson]

it could just be your starter, if the clutch pedal switch was unplugged or broken it would not click

 

[Alan11]

My clutch switch is unplugged

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Sounds to me like the starter solonoid. by pass it by touching the B and S on the solenoid.