So what are you working on that’s NOT your DSM?

[curt-s]

Need to do some power cable hiding underneath but finally got around to finishing my HW display int the basement, right next to the bar.



I've got about 20 or so more that didn't make it into any display but I'm holding onto them anyway. Some sentimental, some investments

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[BLACK'98DSM]

My self-propelled mower decided to launch parts of the head gasket while cutting the front yard. Luckily the parts store 9 miles away had one in stock, so I was able to finish mowing the yard same day.

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[Imback]

Had a local guy pick up a gvr4. I helped with some basics and gave him a few suggetionings. Finally was able to come down and fix a few issues before it was road worthy. The guy had a smile from ear to ear.

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[92Turbski]

Had a local guy pick up a gvr4. I helped with some basics and gave him a few suggetionings. Finally was able to come down and fix a few issues before it was road worthy. The guy had a smile from ear to ear.

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Dude, that's awesome!!!

Cool lil Shiba Inu pup along for the ride, too!

 

[Bigmike4g63t]

I don't have time for anything not dsm related currently.

 

[Canadian_CD9A]

Making progress on my Neon ACR. From manky, half-broken engine to some-assembly-required engine:

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Manky 420A valve cover to manky blue 420A valve cover

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Manky suspension to nice suspension (Koni struts with Mopar Performance springs, NOS mounts, etc)

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Manky transmission to nice transmission with LSD and refresh.

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[CrackedDSM]

I think that's one of my favorite words. Manky.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

Making progress on my Neon ACR. From manky, half-broken engine to some-assembly-required engine:

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Manky 420A valve cover to manky blue 420A valve cover

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Manky suspension to nice suspension (Koni struts with Mopar Performance springs, NOS mounts, etc)

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Manky transmission to nice transmission with LSD and refresh.

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Good idea, tossing in a new input shaft bearing. I'm yet to spin a used one that feels smooth. That is definitely the dirtiest belhousing I've seen yet!

 

[Canadian_CD9A]

Good idea, tossing in a new input shaft bearing. I'm yet to spin a used one that feels smooth. That is definitely the dirtiest belhousing I've seen yet!

Neons have a tendency to sound like rock tumblers because of it. My old 1997 coupe beater did it, and my friend's 1994 ACR did it basically from new. Easy 'while I'm there' service that isn't worth fixing once the transmission is in the car.

 

[chrysler kid]

Thanks, guess im going to try welding it this weekend.

The F20b is interchangable, but it only fits the base model. The SH header is longer so that the cat sits further back because of this damn ATTS

This is the first car that Ive owned where Ive wished for the lesser model.

I'd honestly just use rough sand paper to prep it, and some jb weld with a hose clamp on it. being naturally aspirated its not going to get hot enough to have issues.

but yeah welding it is the better answer

 

[Bud92gsx]

I'm poor but 50 bux here and there. It's "mostly legal" I need like oars,fuel line,wiring,get the damm motor goin again. It's registered, so legal that way. I don't mess around with were mostly legal and the DNR

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[TerminalTalon]

01 Cobra a friend bought. They are noisy in general from the forums but also have a lot of issues. Oil feeds to the passenger head prevent proper oil pressure and don’t let the lifters fully pump up. I also noticed the spring seats looking like this. My boss said that’s normal casting but I can’t see how things would leave the factory like that.

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[BLACK'98DSM]

It's crazy what people throw away

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[92Turbski]

It's crazy what people throw away

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No doubt!

I've pulled saws and all kinds of shit out of the trash and most of the time all they've needed was carb overhauling and minor maintenance.

 

[saturn345]

I picked this up from local estate sale for 1500
1966 Chevy ll mostly original from what I can tell
In-line 6 with poweglide

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[TerminalTalon]

88 anniversary edition Corvette. Came in for hood release cables that I had to modify to work and came back for a couple MAF codes more then likely MAF relays. The seats are getting new covers next door at the upholstery shop since everything else is practically new.

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[Canadian_CD9A]

Got to spend Father’s Day with my old man for the first time in a long time. We spent the afternoon building the engine on my neon, doing ring gaps for nitrous. To me, this is as good as it gets.

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

What car is behind your dad?
1968 Chevelle?
It's hard to tell.
I got into THESE toys not to long ago. Lots of fun and I got them both at a STEAL.
The Green one is a 2001 Polaris Sportsman 500HO and the Tan one is a 2004 Polaris Sportsman 700. I gave $600 for the Green one and $800 for the Tan one. I think that is a pretty dam good deal and they are pretty easy to maintain and sure are fun (but stupid fast). I have added lighting and a few other little things like the rear bags for storage and some normal wear maintenance items.

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[curt-s]

What car is behind your dad?
1968 Chevelle?
It's hard to tell.
I got into THESE toys not to long ago. Lots of fun and I got them both at a STEAL.
The Green one is a 2001 Polaris Sportsman 500HO and the Tan one is a 2004 Polaris Sportsman 700. I gave $600 for the Green one and $800 for the Tan one. I think that is a pretty dam good deal and they are pretty easy to maintain and sure are fun (but stupid fast). I have added lighting and a few other little things like the rear bags for storage and some normal wear maintenance items.

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I'm going with early 70s Mustang

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Well I wondered that too Curt. The front fender flailing back almost said Javalin with the fastback look in the rear.
I am just curious

 

[Canadian_CD9A]

It's a 1971 Mustang 429 SCJ with a neat story. It's a bare bones car with only the 429, 4-speed and drag pack as options. Grabber blue with white interior. According to factory data, it was probably the second car off the line in 1970, ahead of the show cars, but it was likely built months before since it has a lot of prototype and hand-made parts on it. We're pretty sure it was Ford's factory drag car for the 1971 year, which would make it the last factory drag car Ford ever made, since the program was cancelled two weeks after the car was built. Our car was officially purchased by Ford Marketing Corporation, left the assembly line and was sent directly to the Ford Tech Center, which was elsewhere on the factory grounds. They pulled the engine/trans and shipped them to Holman & Moody in Charlotte, NC, who did all of Ford's racing powertrains. The chassis was then destined for Dearborn Steel & Tubing, who did Ford's chassis prep, but it never made it out the door of the Tech Center. H&M did, however, build the engine to super stock specs, but Ford forfeit the powertrain to them since the program was dead and they didn't pay the bill. We talked to the second owner of the car and learned that the car was sold out the back door later in 1970 to a Ford Tech Center employee in Detroit, who drove and raced it for a few years with a small block, and eventually got a Jack Roush-prepped 351. The odometer made it to 22,000 or so. It was then sent to another big name racer to be transformed into a pro-mod type car in the 1980s and they absolutely butchered it, so it sat. A major name in hot rodding bought it to turn it into some sort of Barris-type car, but sold it to us in 2003 because he didn't have time to carry it out. So yeah, we bought it as a hacked up shell, but put it back together. I went hard at finding the car's original engine & trans, even though we had enough to put one together. It turns out the original was sold by Holman & Moody to a couple in Corpus Christi, TX in 1971, who intended to put it in a 30s Ford hotrod, but that never materialized. It sat in the crate for 40 years. The husband eventually passed away and the wife decided it was time to sell it in 2012, which I caught wind of. I saw our car's serial number stamped into the block & trans and we had a deal struck at 6 am the next morning. It was complete down to some wiring harnesses that we were missing from our chassis. She had a copy of the cheque she issued to H&M - they paid over $10,000 in 1971 for it. The engine has dyno time only on it by the looks of it, and it's now reunited with the car. The project has stalled for a long time due to my dad's health, I've really been pushing him to get it across the finish line. It's going to be outstanding.

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

That is one BAD ASS CAR. Get that thing restored

In "other" news.......I broke the new Tan 4 wheeler last night. Dam I am hard on things. When I got it I knew it had 2 shot ujoints and one bad CV shaft so I went ahead and ordered them up and a set of bushings for the rear suspension. I am glad I did. While we were trying out the new Light Bar I went to climb a pond dike and broke the rear driveshaft at the yoke. Funny thing is, I don't think the front end engaged. I had the switch on AWD but I haven't ever tested it yet (I've only had it a little over a week). If I hadn't had a air chisle/hammer, I don't think I would have been able to get the roll pin out of the transmission side yoke, which is what holds it on the splines.
If anybody has any ideas about how to check the front end and see if it engages or what makes it engage, I would be all ears. It looks to be electronic engagement from pictures of the front dif but the 4x4 doesn't have its speedometer, and I think power goes thru it, out to the handle bar switch for AWD then to the dif. I will install all of the new stuff when I have it apart so we don't have things like this happen AGAIN. Good thing I had a new tow rope in one of the vehicles!
Thanks fella's (and ladies).
Carnage pictures, because everybody likes to see shit that is all tore up!!!!
Marty
UPDATE: After a short YouTube search, I did a Ground wire mod under the hood and now 4x4 works like a charm. When the upper "pod' with the speedometer is missing, the 4x4 won't work, as the speedometer has a ground that the switch needs. A quick tap of a single wire over to a chassis ground and the 4x4 works great!

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[jdxnc]

Drove up to my buddies place 3 hours away and helped him finish wiring and and got his 1g fired up for the first time on a Fueltech FT550. Other than 2 wires in the wrong hole for the crank sensor and cam sensor blade being 180 off, very smooth go

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Doing another 400 SBC build. The block was very rusty, but looked like someone tried to keep the machined surfaces fresh with Vasoline, I think. It cleaned up very very well, but I miked the crank and, even tho it looks GREAT, I think the rod journals and MAYBE the mains will need cut .010" and I am OK with that. A 400 crank has a lot of meat on it. My other 400 has a crank that is cut .010/.030 and no issues at all.
Just "other" stuff going on here at the shop! The heat has kept me out of the shop for the last couple weeks (100*, or close). I'm luckily had a lifter bore hone, so I ran it thru all of the lifter bores and they feel nice and smooth for rotation of the hydraulic lifters (or will I go "roller"??? ).
Marty

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[92Turbski]

Doing another 400 SBC build. The block was very rusty, but looked like someone tried to keep the machined surfaces fresh with Vasoline, I think. It cleaned up very very well, but I miked the crank and, even tho it looks GREAT, I think the rod journals and MAYBE the mains will need cut .010" and I am OK with that. A 400 crank has a lot of meat on it. My other 400 has a crank that is cut .010/.030 and no issues at all.
Just "other" stuff going on here at the shop! The heat has kept me out of the shop for the last couple weeks (100*, or close). I luckily had a lifter bore hone, so I ran it thru all of the lifter bores and they feel nice and smooth for rotation of the hydraulic lifters (or will I go "roller"??? ).
Marty

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Ohhh, nice, another 4 hundo! Damn, they're a hot SBC. Especially with a full roller setup!
You've always got something popping. Stay smart in this heat.


Rob