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Street Build Resurrection of the Red 90 Talon

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,892
5,780
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Its 37* out but I got the shop to 60*, good enuf to sweat and get the @99gst_racer Paul Volk tubular front end installed in my 1990 Talon using a 347 front roll stop. Pretty much bolt up, a little persuasion to the front roll stop bracket was required but just a few taps. It sure does free up alot of room like on my 92 Talon. Got it 5 years ago, according to my invoice.
Fresh 23 spline Transfer Case installed also. It's just all the little things now :)
More updates as they come. BTW, the tube front end fell off during mock up and of course got me in my tennis elbow elbow. I just kept on goin.
Note to self, put on at least ONE nut/bolt to hold things up. :ohdamn:
Pictures for all to enjoy or hack on.
Marty

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,892
5,780
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
It keeps the fire burning in me too guys. Dam I want the auto car to be running (with all its gears) at the same time so we can all compare them against each other ;):thumb::cool:

Nice i got went and got the first one he built gotta install this winter .
You got lucky Vic. I was after it also for my 3rd and last DSM. :p Paul told me he had sold it earlier that day if it's the same one I am thinking about. They are wonderful pieces of "art" like all of our Freelancers products!
 

DreamChaser7

Supporting VIP
230
164
Jul 18, 2019
Valrico, Florida
Glad to hear it Marty, and glad everyone was able to talk you off the edge of the cliff last year with the gas issue.
So if you could verify my thinking was correct on this. I bought the other 3 Torque Solutions engine mounts but not the front one in anticipation of getting this kit eventually as it appears to be pretty clear from the photos you don't need the front one with this kit. I am correct here yes? Just need the front bracket that attaches to the bell housing?
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,892
5,780
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Glad to hear it Marty, and glad everyone was able to talk you off the edge of the cliff last year with the gas issue.
So if you could verify my thinking was correct on this. I bought the other 3 Torque Solutions engine mounts but not the front one in anticipation of getting this kit eventually as it appears to be pretty clear from the photos you don't need the front one with this kit. I am correct here yes? Just need the front bracket that attaches to the bell housing?
Me too, so thank you all for your support! It ate up a whole year of my life, time to catch up!
You are correct, you will not need the front roll stop. It bolts directly to the new tubular front cross bar. Good that you asked so you don't waste money. :thumb:
 

DreamChaser7

Supporting VIP
230
164
Jul 18, 2019
Valrico, Florida
Me too, so thank you all for your support! It ate up a whole year of my life, time to catch up!
You are correct, you will not need the front roll stop. It bolts directly to the new tubular front cross bar. Good that you asked so you don't waste money. :thumb:
I was pretty much sure but never hurts to triple check. :cool:
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,892
5,780
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Parts showed up and there is work to be done before the shitty cold weather hits!
Running 8an line to the engine compartment and trying to get all the underside stuff buttoned up.
 

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,892
5,780
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Gettin shit done! Fuel line ran. Front axles back in. A little front end maintenance is in order I/we see. My son helped button up the 8an line and slam the axles in, thanks for the help son! :thumb:
I took pictures as we went. We did all of this after putting the LS onto the engine stand and moving the LT1 to the assembly cart. :)
Progress!!!!
 

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CrackedDSM

10+ Year Contributor
2,292
941
Dec 17, 2009
Pensacola, Florida
Gettin shit done! Fuel line ran. Front axles back in. A little front end maintenance is in order I/we see. My son helped button up the 8an line and slam the axles in, thanks for the help son! :thumb:
I took pictures as we went. We did all of this after putting the LS onto the engine stand and moving the LT1 to the assembly cart. :)
Progress!!!!



Man, it's looking great Marty. I am really...REALLY jealous of you having a lift. I need to put my axles in, and then the rolling portion of mine will be complete. Kinda dreading it. How bad/much of a pain were you axles going IN? Any special tools or procedures you used?
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,892
5,780
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Man, it's looking great Marty. I am really...REALLY jealous of you having a lift. I need to put my axles in, and then the rolling portion of mine will be complete. Kinda dreading it. How bad/much of a pain were you axles going IN? Any special tools or procedures you used?
No special tools needed. Remove the brake line holder from the strut. Take the brake caliper off. Hang the caliper from the coil spring or fender. Take out the 2 strut bolts/nuts. Now pull the spindle out and down towards the rear (or front if it works better for you). You can then put the CV shafts into the trans/half shaft and SEAT them. We used a dead blow hammer to get mine to seat. Now bend that spindle down and away from the CV shaft as far as you can and you can put the tip of the axle into the back of the front hub. Nudge it into the splines and put the spindle back up and onto the strut with the 2 bolts and then reassemble everything else. You don't have to remove the lower ball joint OR the tie rod end doing it that way. If you have any questions, just ask. Lube the seal area on the shaft and the seal itself with any oil before assembly also.
We try to work Smarter not Harder!
:thumb:
Marty

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,892
5,780
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
You can also remove the lower control arm bolts and sway arm nut and pull it outta the way. Thanks @pauleyman !!!!
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,892
5,780
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Well after seeing the underside of the car on the lift, there were several things that needed addressed BEFORE it starts.
Here is a picture of the parts that are needed. Only 1 strut because I replaced the passenger side unit after taking a corner at around 150mph. It tore the strut mount almost completely off of the 33 year old rusted out strut, back before the thing died and got parked. Don't ask questions or be hatin'....."lucky" is a very good term for the situation that happened 6 years ago or more. It's all a blurr. ROFL
Brakes are a MUST for this car and the back lines are DEFINITELY in need of replacement like my '92 Talon needed and got. I use NiCop line and do my own flares. You can do the complete set of rear lines on a 1g with 1 coil of tubing that is 25'. It is 3/16 line and 10mm flare nuts (or you can reuse your old ones, they usually are fine). Now is the best time to do it before the intake is bolted onto the motor for ease of access to the proporioning valve.
Fluids are for the trans, transfer case and rear dif, when I slap the FF Dif Brace on. I also have 1 qt of HD Shock already in the shop.
Pops

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,892
5,780
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Man....when I saw the rear brake lines on the Red 90 Talon, I knew it was time to replace those old ass things. It took my son Trevor and I about 3 1/2 hours to replace it all from the propositioning valve to the caliper hoses. It took a 25' coil of NiCop line and some new 10mm line nuts. I did the "inside" line on the prop valve 1st, as it is the passenger side line and is the longest. Weirdly, that line is the OUTSIDE line in the line holders on the car, who knows why.... Anyway, I did it from the front to the back of the car and the only place I couldn't run it like the factory was at the K member/firewall junction so I fished the line over the K member and back onto the firewall and onto the propositioning valve. Was it easy....NO. Did I get it done...YES!
So glad to have solid lines now. If the car is as fast as it was she went down (upgrades from then are on now), it is imperative that the brakes work GOOD.
I took a few pictures so all could see and make fun of. Slow progress, but PROGRESS none the less!
Marty

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,892
5,780
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Oh yeah. I run a B&M oli cooler in the stock SMIC location, on this stick car. EASY TO SEE RIGHT NOW, LOL. The wheels are off. The auto car runs that stupid water cooled OFH. IDK if I will keep it but it's working ok right now.
I did notice that one of my AN fittings on the OFH had a "line" scratch in it. It don't want to trust it so I ordered a new set. The lines run on top of my FMIC. When I'm in the shop tomorrow I'll post a picture or 2 for all to see. It always worked real good. Somewhere on here, maybe in that cars profile or updates, there are some pictures or the write up.
Let me check.
 

CrackedDSM

10+ Year Contributor
2,292
941
Dec 17, 2009
Pensacola, Florida
Got a picture request, can you take a picture of the area directly behind the Talon center piece on this car? I feel like I'm missing a part there where it snaps into/holds it tight.


Double request: anyone off-hand know where you can buy more of the clips themselves that hold the center piece in? They're a weird clip I haven't seen except on a 1ga DSM.
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,892
5,780
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Good, I'd be real interested in seeing how this one is put in there.
I am glad you asked! I noticed a damp area halfway down the cooler so I had to order a replacement 70273 B&M cooler.for piece of mind. NO LEAKS!
I could have mounted it facing forward but since it just wants to see cool air flowing thru/by it, I mounted this one at an angle and facing somewhat out towards the fender. I mounted it that way because I dont have a rock shield for the car and didn't want to throw a rock thru the cooler.

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,892
5,780
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Got a picture request, can you take a picture of the area directly behind the Talon center piece on this car? I feel like I'm missing a part there where it snaps into/holds it tight.


Double request: anyone off-hand know where you can buy more of the clips themselves that hold the center piece in? They're a weird clip I haven't seen except on a 1ga DSM.
How is this? Need anymore angles? I will see if any if the parts 90s have the actual spring type clips for a visual and repost. :thumb:

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CrackedDSM

10+ Year Contributor
2,292
941
Dec 17, 2009
Pensacola, Florida
How is this? Need anymore angles? I will see if any if the parts 90s have the actual spring type clips for a visual and repost. :thumb:

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Those are perfect, Marty. It appears I am missing the tiny bracket that bolts onto the hood latch...for whatever reason. I have no clue why you'd get rid of that. It has to weigh what..6 ounces? Meh. Seems easy enough to fabricate a replacement though.

And would definitely appreciate the pics of the clips too! Maybe I could get someone to 3D print us some replacements.
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,892
5,780
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Just a few pictures of the wheel well lines after they were covered in rubber tubing and the lines at the propositioning valve along with some new OEM heater hoses (Thanks JNZ!) and a new 8AN fuel filter and line with a matching 8AN rail and 6AN return. :thumb:

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19Eclipse90

DSM Wiseman
5,309
1,177
Sep 29, 2003
OKC, Oklahoma
Got a picture request, can you take a picture of the area directly behind the Talon center piece on this car? I feel like I'm missing a part there where it snaps into/holds it tight.


Double request: anyone off-hand know where you can buy more of the clips themselves that hold the center piece in? They're a weird clip I haven't seen except on a 1ga DSM.

C8632833-FA13-4171-B715-82B7F59A27EF.jpeg


Pretty sure this is the clip. Google the number and it seems there’s plenty of sources to get them from.
 
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