rear lower control arms

[pagosa dsm]

I just built these control arms last week. I hope they will give you some ideas

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[turboglenn]

looks good, but i don' know if it's just the angle or the light, but it looks as if there's a bend in the arm a little over halfway towards the rim from the body. It may just be the picture though, what type of steel are they made from?

here's the link fixed
Tubular Lower Control Arm - Custom tubular lower control arm with adjustable sway bar fitting and solid bushings DSMtuners Gallery

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Think you can make those upper ones glenn? I already have the lower rear i guess. I bought the ingalls kit, but those upper ones are sick! I tried calling you pogosa, and left you a pm, get back to me. Thanks!

James

 

[turboglenn]

Yea, I could make those uppers. I would just need one as a tempolate for measurements and basic configuration ideas.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

I actually need the lowers. I talked to pagosa today, and he said he can send my the temp, or i can just send you one of mine. He has heim joints on his, and the bracket for the sway bar as well.

James

 

[pagosa dsm]

Here is a parts list for the control arms.

Round stock 2 1/8 in length and 1 1/2 round with a 12mm hole in the middle.

Afco # 30212 tie rod


3/4 23" swaged steel tube cut to size

jam nut

1" by 2" rectangle stock for sway bar bracket drilled at 1" to slide into the tube and 3/8" hole for the sway bar link

 

[myturbo]

how much $ ???

my wheels lean real bad.

 

[pagosa dsm]

how much $ ???

my wheels lean real bad.

I think you what to adjust the rear camber with the rear upper control arm.I have a write up on the teck section to built your own upper control arms.I would replace the 3/4 hiem joint with afco # 20212 tie rod end.

I will not build any suspension parts because of the liability ,but I will help any of our fine venders to build them. I have spoken to a few venders about my modds.

 

[Ludachris]

I got my rear uppers at 3sx.com:
Control Arms 3SX TT Camber#-#Mitsubishi 3000GT#/#Dodge Stealth

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The only challenge on the lowers would be the swaybar mounting point. I was thinking the same design as the 3sx design, except using DOM tubing instead of swedge tubing and welding a bung to the top of the tube where the mounting point would be for the swaybar and use some different links...

 

[pagosa dsm]

I got my rear uppers at 3sx.com:
Control Arms 3SX TT Camber#-#Mitsubishi 3000GT#/#Dodge Stealth

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The only challenge on the lowers would be the swaybar mounting point. I was thinking the same design as the 3sx design, except using DOM tubing instead of swedge tubing and welding a bung to the top of the tube where the mounting point would be for the swaybar and use some different links...

I thought the same idea as you with 2 heim joints.The problem is the rotation of the heim joint attach to the sway bar. The other problem is the sway bar link does not have the room to attach to the sway bar if is on top of the control arm. If you can design the arm with heim joint I will make a new arm.
Rick

 

[toofast82]

[/QUOTE=pagosa dsm;151834763]I

You need to start making/selling these rear suspension parts you have made. You had a nice trailing arm mod, too!
Did you say you had a writeup on uppers?

 

[Ludachris]

I thought the same idea as you with 2 heim joints.The problem is the rotation of the heim joint attach to the sway bar. The other problem is the sway bar link does not have the room to attach to the sway bar if is on top of the control arm. If you can design the arm with heim joint I will make a new arm.
Rick

So maybe we have to design the end that attaches to the car the same way as stock and just use a solid bushing and use a ball joint on the other end, just as you did. As for the swaybar attachment point, couldn't we find really short heim joints? Or maybe change the design so that the bung is on the side of the tube and use end links similar to the front swaybars? How did you attach it? I can't really tell in the photo. Any weight savings over stock?

 

[pagosa dsm]

So maybe we have to design the end that attaches to the car the same way as stock and just use a solid bushing and use a ball joint on the other end, just as you did. As for the swaybar attachment point, couldn't we find really short heim joints? Or maybe change the design so that the bung is on the side of the tube and use end links similar to the front swaybars? How did you attach it? I can't really tell in the photo. Any weight savings over stock?

Thank you for posting the photo,I am not very good with the computer.

I installed 3/8 heim joints from the outside of the sway bar.Then I welded a 1by 2" by 3" stock to the control arm. I bolted the heim joint to the lower control arm. I had to cut the theads of the heim joint almost in half so I could fit them. I bought the heim joints from speedway motors. Some have asked for me to make my modds,I will not because of the liabilty of suspenion parts.I would be happy to give any information to any of our venders to market them.
Rick

 

[eldiabloz13]

I understand the liabilty part. Do you feel those control arms can last the life of the car with out bending?

 

[pagosa dsm]

I understand the liabilty part. Do you feel those control arms can last the life of the car with out bending?

These are not factory parts,so I can not tell you that they will last the live of your car.Factory parts are designed to crush under impack. Thats what makes the car save in an accident.
The bushing is solid steel,it will not break
The steel swedged sleeves are designed for suspenion
The tie rod ends are designed for suspenion also
So I think they might last a while.

 

[PIMking]

I got my rear uppers at 3sx.com:
Control Arms 3SX TT Camber#-#Mitsubishi 3000GT#/#Dodge Stealth

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The only challenge on the lowers would be the swaybar mounting point. I was thinking the same design as the 3sx design, except using DOM tubing instead of swedge tubing and welding a bung to the top of the tube where the mounting point would be for the swaybar and use some different links...

chris or Glenn, will these work on a 1g awd? I bought the DME kit but not enough for my car and I have some nice camber in the rear that I HATE.

 

[myturbo]

yeah they fit.

 

[PIMking]

yeah they fit.

do you just reuse the stock esentrck (sp) bolts? or regular bolts?

 

[eldiabloz13]

These are not factory parts,so I can not tell you that they will last the live of your car.Factory parts are designed to crush under impack. Thats what makes the car save in an accident.
The bushing is solid steel,it will not break
The steel swedged sleeves are designed for suspenion
The tie rod ends are designed for suspenion also
So I think they might last a while.

So I started the build today of what you origionally posted. My concept is the same tubular design as your origional pics but with luda's design. The only difference is a 14" bar and a 18 1/2 bar with the same tie rod with joints and spacers. The only problem is the tire rod thats under the rotor assembly won't come out. Did you have a problem with yours. Any suggestions if not?

 

[turboglenn]

chris or Glenn, will these work on a 1g awd? I bought the DME kit but not enough for my car and I have some nice camber in the rear that I HATE.

Some one answered but i was going to say that i dont' know if those exact ones will work, but i could easily make somethat would with the same heim joints and all from parts at the local circle track shop, a bandsaw and a few taps. THen i could jsut weld on sway bar mounting tabs...easy enough. The fronts are the harder ones

 

[Ludachris]

do you just reuse the stock esentrck (sp) bolts? or regular bolts?

You should be able to use either bolts, stock or the aftermarket eccentric.

 

[pagosa dsm]

So I started the build today of what you origionally posted. My concept is the same tubular design as your origional pics but with luda's design. The only difference is a 14" bar and a 18 1/2 bar with the same tie rod with joints and spacers. The only problem is the tire rod thats under the rotor assembly won't come out. Did you have a problem with yours. Any suggestions if not?

If I understand your question,you are building the rear lower control arm.I don't think you can have a ball joint at one end and a heim joint on the other end. The sway bar link will not work with this seat up.It will rotate with the mount.You can hit the hub to release the ball joint.I have never had a problem.

 

[PIMking]

I think you what to adjust the rear camber with the rear upper control arm.I have a write up on the teck section to built your own upper control arms.I would replace the 3/4 hiem joint with afco # 20212 tie rod end.

I will not build any suspension parts because of the liability ,but I will help any of our fine venders to build them. I have spoken to a few venders about my modds.

is there a moog version of that tie rod end? I cant seem to find a afco tre!


I sent you a P/M.

 

[eldiabloz13]

If I understand your question,you are building the rear lower control arm.I don't think you can have a ball joint at one end and a heim joint on the other end. The sway bar link will not work with this seat up.It will rotate with the mount.You can hit the hub to release the ball joint.I have never had a problem.

Na, Iv taken care of the sway bar issue. I have one of two options, I can weld a new sway bar bolt point or put something on the lower control arm that can allow the sway bar to attach. But thats when I get all my stuff in ill decide. THIS on the other hand sucks right now. I cut the tire rod off. The head is there with thread and no bolt, but this wont come out. You can see where the clamps are to try and get this out.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/eldiabloz13/DSC00734.jpg

 

[Ludachris]

Na, Iv taken care of the sway bar issue. I have one of two options, I can weld a new sway bar bolt point or put something on the lower control arm that can allow the sway bar to attach. But thats when I get all my stuff in ill decide. THIS on the other hand sucks right now. I cut the tire rod off. The head is there with thread and no bolt, but this wont come out. You can see where the clamps are to try and get this out.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/eldiabloz13/DSC00734.jpg

Damn, I feel for you guys in the Northeast.