Rear Lower Control arms. How To:

[dsmornothing]

As with any non teflon lined joint, that will happen. I went with all QA1 with teflon lining. They are so tight when you get them that your fingers cant move the ball. QA1 also makes the spacers needed as well! I have never been a fan of AFCO!

These are the uppers and lowers I made for my car. As you can see, it is NOT swage tube either

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[BoostedBeaver]

Is there any particular place you would recommend when purchasing these joints??

It looks like there is some swage tubing in the box underneath. How did you construct the tube?? Tubing with nuts welded onto the ends??

Thank you for sharing the information. This will give myself and others some options when constructing these parts.

Robert

 

[dsmornothing]

They are tube inserts. The tubing is .095 moly and the heims are QA1 High misalignment. I know the main bore is .75 But I would have to dig up the part number. These things are beefy as hell and extremely tight just like a new ball joint. I will be putting boots over mine so dirt and water cannot get into them. It will help pro long life

 

[this_tsi_8urV8]

Nice looking pieces, not as eye catchy as the gold, but I'll take it. The ball joint also comes with a grease filler?

 

[RedTalonTsi]

This may be a stupid question, but if you are looking to correct camber on a car lowered 1.75+ inches do you need both upper and lower rear control arms to be adjustable on a AWD? For camber adjustment purposes is having only the upper replaced with these custom parts feasible? I think the answer is yes, but want to get others opinions before diving in on this.

Assuming you only have to replace the upper arm to adjust camber, what is the purpose of replacing the lower control arm? Less weight? Looks? Seems like you lose strength and make yourself some extra work in finding a mounting point for the sway bar attachment, what are the gains to be had?

Thanks in advance,
Dana

 

[pneumo]

This may be a stupid question, but if you are looking to correct camber on a car lowered 1.75+ inches do you need both upper and lower rear control arms to be adjustable on a AWD? For camber adjustment purposes is having only the upper replaced with these custom parts feasible? I think the answer is yes, but want to get others opinions before diving in on this.

Assuming you only have to replace the upper arm to adjust camber, what is the purpose of replacing the lower control arm? Less weight? Looks? Seems like you lose strength and make yourself some extra work in finding a mounting point for the sway bar attachment, what are the gains to be had?

Thanks in advance,
Dana

You don't need the lower arm to correct the camber when lowered 1.75". The upper arm has enough adjustment.

 

[DSM4LIFE-AWD]

Ok I installed those arm (upper and lower) at the end of May. I have something like 10K kilometers on them and they all have a play in the eye bolt ...

I welded the sway bar like in the pics but each time I hit the street I can hear my bushing squeek !? Also when my car is on jackstand it's hard to remove the sway bar since it's kind of pulling on the bracket I welded. Did you weld those bracket with the wheels on the ground or on jack stand ?

I will also search for teflon heim joint with better design !

 

[99gst_racer]

Any brand of economy heim will not last long. They are cheap and are meant to be replaced often. The ones Afco uses are as cheap as they get.

The solution is a heat treated, teflon-lined heim. They will cost 4x as much, but they'll be tighter tolleranced and will last much longer as well. This is classic "get what you pay for". For a good quality heim, check out Aurora's VCAM/VCAB or AM/AB series or QA1's XM or PCM series heims. I'm a fan or Aurora's products, but QA1 is good too.

 

[DSM4LIFE-AWD]

Thanks Paul for sharing those information

I'll report my result when I'll change them. Roads are really hard over here ...

 

[Fehrion_sit]

Can we get a revised parts list including QA1 or McMaster heim joints?

 

[99gst_racer]

PART NUMBERS FOR 3/4":

Aurora
Right: AM-12T -or- VCAM-12
Left: AB-12T -or- VCAB-12

The AM/B series is slightly stronger than the VCAM/B series, although the VCAM/B is several times stronger than it even needs to be for the application. I use the VCAM/B's because they're half the cost.

QA1
Right: XMR-12 -or- PCMR-12T
Left: XML-12 -or- PCML-12T

I prefer the XM series over the PCM. The PCM uses some sort of dry, powdery liner and I don't really like it.

 

[Fehrion_sit]

so the new list is

30211 tie rod end LH (x2) $17.88ea
10141 jam nut 3/4" LH (x2) $0.95ea
19517 17 inch swage tubing (x2) $ 13.88ea
PLUS
From Aurora VCAM-12 + VCAB-12



am i understanding this correctly? im a little confused by all the different hardware tech

 

[99gst_racer]

so the new list is

30211 tie rod end LH (x2) $17.88ea
10141 jam nut 3/4" LH (x2) $0.95ea
19517 17 inch swage tubing (x2) $ 13.88ea
PLUS
From Aurora VCAM-12 + VCAB-12

am i understanding this correctly? im a little confused by all the different hardware tech

You would only need two RH heims - no lefts, so qty:2 of VCAM-12. You'd also need two 3/4" RH jam nuts for the heims.

 

[DSM4LIFE-AWD]

You don't need one left and one right to do both side, it all depend on the tube you're using ...

Ok here are the price Motion Industries quoted me (I have a re seller discount):

Aurora
AM-12T = 83.31$
VCAM-12 = 29.29$

Seems fairly cheap to me how can I know it's better than my Afco sh*t ?

Here's a link to the VCAM-12: Motion Industries - Item Details - VCAM12 ROD END

 

[99gst_racer]

Seems fairly cheap to me how can I know it's better than my Afco sh*t ?

The specs tell the tale. The Afco heim is made by FK Bearing. It's a general purpose 2-pc economy heim. Low carbon steel body and no teflon liner. It's as cheap as they get. Any of the part numbers that I listed have heat treated alloy or chromoly bodies and teflon liners. They also have nearly double the static radial load capacity of the Afco/FK heim. The high strength and precision heims are tighter tolleranced and last longer in use.

Keep pricing around. You should be able to find those AM-12T's in the $45-60 retail range. Wholesale would be even less.

 

[Fehrion_sit]

The specs tell the tale. The Afco heim is made by FK Bearing. it's a general purpose 2-pc economy heim. Low carbon steel body and no teflon liner. It's as cheap as they get. Any of the part numbers that I listed have heat treated alloy or chromoly bodies and teflon liners. They also have nearly double the static radial load capacity of the Afco/FK heim.

because they are better quality, we should be able to use them on the street with relative confidence?

 

[99gst_racer]

because they are better quality, we should be able to use them on the street with relative confidence?

In addition to being stronger and self-lubricating, the higher end heims have a far tighter clearance between the ball and race. That means less chance for debris to get it, and that translates to a longer lasting heim. So, yeah, they are definitely better for the street.

 

[4gsx63]

As with any non teflon lined joint, that will happen. I went with all QA1 with teflon lining. They are so tight when you get them that your fingers cant move the ball. QA1 also makes the spacers needed as well! I have never been a fan of AFCO!

These are the uppers and lowers I made for my car. As you can see, it is NOT swage tube either

Do you mind posting the part# for these?

 

[1qkfwd]

Why adjustable lowers if you can get all the adjustment out of the uppers??

 

[DSM4LIFE-AWD]

Why adjustable lowers ?

Why not ?

Anyway we needed to find a better heim because it's the same for the upper.

Edit: It's also lighter ...

 

[1qkfwd]

Why not ?

I can see the $120-$150 and extra effort go towards something more functional.

 

[DSM4LIFE-AWD]

Allright, after calling 4-5 compagny I finally found what we need at a good price

AM-12T is the best product for the price. I found it at 45$ ...

VCAM-12 is a 2 pieces rod end and AM-12T is a 3 pieces. Don't forget the T, it's really important ! Seller at RodEnd Mechanical told me that it's a cummon product use in nascar, race cars and by the way also on HIS race car ! He was selling me the VCAM-12 for 18$ so I said well better go with the best product like he's using and advice me.

I'll receive them tomorow and post a review after the installation, should be this weekend if I'm not working on the cage in my 2gen.

WooooooT WooooooT Thanks Paul !

 

[Fehrion_sit]

Allright, after calling 4-5 compagny I finally found what we need at a good price

AM-12T is the best product for the price. I found it at 45$ ...

VCAM-12 is a 2 pieces rod end and AM-12T is a 3 pieces. Don't forget the T, it's really important ! Seller at RodEnd Mechanical told me that it's a cummon product use in nascar, race cars and by the way also on HIS race car ! He was selling me the VCAM-12 for 18$ so I said well better go with the best product like he's using and advice me.

I'll receive them tomorow and post a review after the installation, should be this weekend if I'm not working on the cage in my 2gen.

WooooooT WooooooT Thanks Paul !

when you post the pictures, give us an exact part list and prices so we can how yours differs !! best of luck, im really interested in doing this mod!

 

[RedTalonTsi]

Why not ?

Anyway we needed to find a better heim because it's the same for the upper.

Edit: It's also lighter ...

...and weaker apparently, as our friend on the dyno found out to his surprise and detriment.

Anyway, great info in this thread and I'm following it closely as I plan on doing the uppers soon. Please keep us updated on how the new better heims work out,

 

[pneumo]

...and weaker apparently, as our friend on the dyno found out to his surprise and detriment.

Wow, what happened? Did he strap the car down using the upper links?
Personally, I don't strap the car down by the control arms anymore since I upgraded my upper and lower control arms. I use long dyno straps and wrap around the subframe alongside the trailing arm pivot.