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Rear Lower Control arms. How To:

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Im sure its just a formality and the 1/2" wont really matter I just didnt want there to be any issues. Just ordered all these parts for uppers and lowers on Darrens drag car. Will post our results when we get them!
 
I may have missed it but what bolts were used when finishing installation? The factory bolts are too big for the rod end spacer on both upper and lower arms.
 
Would these be a bad idea for a street or track car, in terms of safety? Or do you think that a drag car would actually put a higher load on launch on these things than you would normally encounter on the street or track in hard cornering?





Just asking the question, because I am curious. And less weight and more adjustment is never a bad thing.
 
If you have decent roads in your area then you would be fine but not sure I'd want to hit too many pot holes with them and I'd check them frequently for wear/tear.
 
I've got about 700 kms on these arms now on Winnipeg streets. Sadly this city has the highest rate of suspension component warranty claims in Canada. (I'm a GM tech)
I always love reading the online bench talk over-analyzing of suspension parts everyone does on this forum. I'll let everyone know if I ever encounter a failure.

I used the factory cam bolts at the subframe mounting points.
 
When installing mine, the stock bolts would not fit. I had to go to the local hardware store and pick up some grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts. Wasn't a big hassle.
 
Mine are done as well. Just need to fab up the mounting brackets for the rear sway bar.
<a href="http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i97/Masterkills/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_0878.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i97/Masterkills/IMG_0878.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i97/Masterkills/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_6807.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i97/Masterkills/IMG_6807.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i97/Masterkills/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_8930.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i97/Masterkills/IMG_8930.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
When installing mine, the stock bolts would not fit. I had to go to the local hardware store and pick up some grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts. Wasn't a big hassle.

For suspension, I would use nothing less than a 10.9 grade bolt.
 
I used this thread to make some adjustable upper control arms for my 1g AWD. I was fortunate enough to have a local youtuber come by and produce a video of this process. It covers the parts to purchase, putting them together, and assembling the rear. Keep in mind that there are many modifications being done at the same time, so to see everything, watch the series on his channel. This was produced by Jafro from Jafromobile on youtube. Thanks to the OP for sharing the information as it has helped and will continue to help many.

Robert

Swag Joints ...& Rear Subframe Tech - YouTube
 
Does anyone know what link kit we need to use to mount the sway bar to the trailing arm ? I've found some kit but don't know if the bolt size will fit nor what is the bolt hole diameter in our sway bar ... I think I'll just use some Universal bushing kit and use a good grade bolt ... Does that sound like a good idea ?

Here's the chart for the bushing selection, the only thing I'm affaid of it that the hole for the bolt will be too big ... Does anyone know if it's universal or what since it's not written anywhere when shopping for end link.

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Or universal end link wich is too long even the shortes one here's a pic of the kit 19-401:
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This kit might get the job done if only I would know the diameter of the bolt ... It's a for an Integra front swaybar kit #8-401:
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Here's Prothane guide: http://prothane.com/universal-product-guide/universal-product-guide-page-2/

Thanks guys
 

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Installed!

With the cam bolt on the uppers we simply sourced washers that fit the slot and centered them on both sides. Welding them in at the end of fitment. The cams are 50 thousandths too big. 9/16 IIRC. Just went with 1/2 inch bolts through the upper hiem. Stock on the lowers.

Sway bars welded to the trailing arms.
 
Hmmm I might have to give these a try. Looks like they're a good amount lighter and look a lot better then stock. My only issue is they look like they would snap easily.
 
Well after less than 300 miles, these joints have developed a lot of play. If you push in on the tire you can hear an audible tick caused by the amount of play between the case and inner joint. I pulled them and found these wear marks. They will catch your fingernail when rubbing them.

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This was a very shocking find and I found .005 of play with a dial gauge. AFCO was not very helpful in resolving this issue and could not provide "service limit" specs for play. They did send me another joint of the same kind and when I pulled it out of the bag it had .0035 play and I could make it tick with my finger.

This is a great mod, but I would really urge others to use different Heim joints for this to be an Upgrade.

Robert
 

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I used the following Heim joint from McMaster Carr.
4483t701, and the equivalent for LH thread.

These have the PTFE/Kevlar lining in them and are meant for high strength and no lubrication needed.

I used these when making my upper arms and they have been on the car for awhile. Not sure how many miles though but I would say closer to at least 1000 or more. I need to take them off and see how they are holding up and if there is any play in them. Haven't driven the car much lately because I killed my rear diff. doing a burnout.

I would be semi worried about the ones you are using especially if not using any type of lubrication with them as you will just have metal on metal rubbing. Mainly why I went with the PTFE lined ones because they do not require lubrication. There was another member on here who suggested I use these as I believe he did as well.
 
I will look into these joints and if you get any feedback on the condition of your joints, that would be much appreciated.

Robert
 
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