The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Rix Racing

1G DSM front k-member and tubular control arms

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

vassil

20+ Year Contributor
82
0
May 22, 2002
Winona, Minnesota
Hi Guys,

For the last couple of weeks when I have spare time I have been playing around in my garage trying to fab up a front k-member and tubular control arms for my 1G. So I finally have something that looks like one and I figured I'd share the progress. It has been a royal pain in the butt and it required a lot of experimentation. It's almost done but still needs a few tweaks. I need to fab mounts for the steering rack and add a few more points to the jig and weld it all together. For now it is mostly tacked in place.

So on to the unit itself. It is made out of a combination of 1.625" & 1.25" 4130 chromoly with 0.083 wall. The front part of the control arm has 3/4" heim joints with 24,471 Pounds of static load capacity. The balljoint is from AFCO (same one used in making the rear upper control arms to correct the camber). The rear portion of the control arm is a swedge tube with a 5/8 heim joint and a clevis. The static load capacity of that one is 9713 Pounds. The wall of the tubing used on the control arms is 0.095. The rear motor mount is an energy poly bushing to make things less painful in terms of vibration.

I haven't made the steering mounts yet, but I test fitted the rack and it fits easily. There is even room for the power rack, although I am not planning on using it. Right now I don't have provisions for the sway bar either, but I will eventually add that option too. Depending on time and ambition I might even try to figure out a way to throw a NASCAR style swaybar in it, but that's down the road.

I am planning to make a driveshaft loop once it is all done and have some way to remove it, so removing the transfer case and exhaust doesn't turn into a total disaster. More than likely I will use some sort of beefy pins or something of that sort.

On the weight department (with control arms and all), it weighs roughly 27lbs and the stock one weighs around 61 lbs, so it is a decent amount of savings. If you add the north/south bars and the front crossmember you will probably loose around 50lbs over stock, plus all the power steering stuff (pump, line, belts, etc).

The reason for me posting this in an almost finished form is suggestions, ideas and criticism. I am also curious if there is any interest in people buying this. If so, what would you think is a fair price?

Here are some pics:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
A+, great work.
 
would buy!
can you make a standard, easily replaceable bushing fit at all of the connections to the frame (in all the places the energy suspension kit goes) or is it solid mount only?
 
Looks very good, Vassil. I love those control arms too, as they appear to be fully adjustable like the custom rear control arms are.


Personally, I would like to see mounts to accept an electrically assisted rack like on an MR2 or something of the like.
 
How much does the rack weigh?? Looks very nice a clean man, good job ;)
 
Also very interested. I would also be buying your engine supports here in a few days if you still have them.

Would there be any modification to using this? Or is it just remove old, bolt this up and go?
 
Looks amazing, glad to see another 1g item being made.
 
Very nice man ! I always wanted to build one but i dont have all of the cool tools you have LOL. And you seem to know alot more about that kind of building then i do . Can you let me know how much you would be trying to sell these for. And also would be cool if you had some kind of drawing blue print type thing so you could sell the parts to someone to build . What made you do adjustable control arms ? Again great work !

Ill give you $ 100 bucks right now for a k-member !! LOL JOKING ! There is alot of time and hard work put into that k-membe ect . I think pricing this will be tough because there are alot of things to consider . If you can pm me what you think you might sell one of these for I myself and someone else i know may be interested . Please let me know. Im pretty happy to see a good build like this. And the other work i have seen you do . Keep it up man
 
The mounting point of the control arm to the k-member will be a double shear. I just have it tacked with only one tab to get the right location. For now, where the clevis attaches is still a single shear. I might re-do that one with a double shear bracket and a small rod-end. Something like this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I could make all the frame mounting points with energy bushings and a big fat washer on the bottom. Something like this perhaps? I have that on the rollstop for the rear motor mount.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I will weigh both the power and manual rack today and post the results. BTW Dustin, can you send me some links on that MR2 rack? What is the advantage of electric assist? Easier turning, no belts, weight, etc ...

96AWD, the idea is to have no modifications when putting this is. Yank the old one, put the new one and go get an alignment :) Also I still do make the crossmembers. You can get one anytime you want :D
 
I know a bunch of people were going to use electric PS pumps, but no word about people using the racks as well.
 
The mounting point of the control arm to the k-member will be a double shear. I just have it tacked with only one tab to get the right location. For now, where the clevis attaches is still a single shear. I might re-do that one with a double shear bracket and a small rod-end. Something like this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I could make all the frame mounting points with energy bushings and a big fat washer on the bottom. Something like this perhaps? I have that on the rollstop for the rear motor mount.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I will weigh both the power and manual rack today and post the results. BTW Dustin, can you send me some links on that MR2 rack? What is the advantage of electric assist? Easier turning, no belts, weight, etc ...

96AWD, the idea is to have no modifications when putting this is. Yank the old one, put the new one and go get an alignment :) Also I still do make the crossmembers. You can get one anytime you want :D

Good deal! Exactly what I wanted to hear.

Awaiting pricing for both. PM me a price for crossmembers aand the k-member when you get pricing figured out and ready to start selling!

Lewis Ludwig on HTC HD2
 
i think with people wanting to use so many different types of racks, this is going to make this a big headache and it's never going to get off the ground. the fact that people want so many options as far as lower control arms style and Power steering rack options is what has kept other people from ever producing these. He's already gave us an option for Stock rack and manual rack. I Personally am gonna use this for drag racing so i can care less if this thing has Power steering, but for you guys who auto-cross i believe someone who put the deposit in for the Frontline Fab. K member was saying how after putting in the deposit , he read the rule book and it's illegal.... Don't quote me but somebody should look into that.... I think it looks great Vassil... I'd pay somewhere in the 500-600 range for it, maybe a tad more. I honestly prefer not having bushings. i'm a fan of solid mounts.
 
Yea, I would love to see on for the 2g, based on the gsx sub-frame (it has more reinforcements).
 
I also wanted to ask, I'm still using power rack but PS is deleted. I will be using the power rack until I can get my hands on a manual rack for cheap. Wanted to know if I could still use the power rack then switch out with this k-member?

One more. Will this work with your 3-piece crossmember or just the one piece?
Lewis Ludwig on HTC HD2
 
Last edited:
I also wanted to ask, I'm still using power rack but PS is deleted. I will be using the power rack until I can get my hands on a manual rack for cheap. Wanted to know if I could still use the power rack then switch out with this k-member?

Lewis Ludwig on HTC HD2

He answered this in his first post. He estimates enough room for a power rack
 
Is there any chance that you might try out this for the 2g? I bet I could find some people interested including me.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top