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Questions for Justin...

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Hey. Guy with the frank1. I think you are missing everything justinmx is telling u. Your bearing housing can't be reused either with a 20g wheel. The housing is cut for the larger exuder of the Garett wheel.

hey I completely understood that point [as in post #2244].
it was auto-merged with the comp cover post, so it would appear I was reusing for a 20g, the bearing housing bored for the larger T04E46 wheel. :D

i have a spare E316G bearing housing that I'll use for the re-build., along with what-nots needed...

the Frank is already trash...

thanks for the heads up :thumb:
 
My turn my turn.

Jus, how fkd is this e3 16G? Has some in and out. Per feeler gauge, .017"/.42mm. Seems to have contacted the compressor housing on one half. The other side doesn't look like anything touched it. From what I can see, turbine side looks fine. Thoughts?
It takes a good bit before the turbine rubs the heat shield but the compressor can rub the cover with as little as .005" of thrust movement depending on the turbo.

You definitely have a little contact there, but I honestly don't think it's bad enough to prompt replacement unless you're really planning to push the turbo to the limit; you'll never notice a difference in performance otherwise. Clean some of the loose material off the side of the blades with some fine sandpaper, get the rotating assembly rebalanced, and you'll be good to go.
 
It takes a good bit before the turbine rubs the heat shield but the compressor can rub the cover with as little as .005" of thrust movement depending on the turbo.

You definitely have a little contact there, but I honestly don't think it's bad enough to prompt replacement unless you're really planning to push the turbo to the limit; you'll never notice a difference in performance otherwise. Clean some of the loose material off the side of the blades with some fine sandpaper, get the rotating assembly rebalanced, and you'll be good to go.

Yeah, there is still a good gap between the turbine and heat shield.

So you don't think it needs a rebuild? Just clean it up and rebalance?

I can feel where the blades contacted the compressor cover with my fingernail. Does this need to be smoothed out? Or just us some sand paper/wire brush to make sure anything loose is removed?
 
Yeah, there is still a good gap between the turbine and heat shield.

So you don't think it needs a rebuild? Just clean it up and rebalance?
No you absolutely need a rebuild; I meant the compressor wheel doesn't necessarily need replaced. The thrust hardware is worn and the turbine sealing ring is likely wiped out as a result...if you fail to rebuild it now, the problem is only going to get worse rapidly. The rebalance is needed because the wheel contacted the housing.
I can feel where the blades contacted the compressor cover with my fingernail. Does this need to be smoothed out? Or just us some sand paper/wire brush to make sure anything loose is removed?
That's the point I was making about using the sandpaper to smooth out the material that's hanging over a bit so it doesn't come loose and fall off down the road after it's been rebalanced. ;)
 
Is the TDO5 turbine housing clamp 90.8mm? Also, where is the best place to get one?
One more question, would you consider using the 11.5cm evo 9 turbine housing that seems to be a hit on ebay? Thanks.
 
Justin, The 10cm T3 housing from the 20g's and sy/ty have enough meat to be ported to accept the TD06H? Currently was on a Td05H 20G
 
Is the TDO5 turbine housing clamp 90.8mm? Also, where is the best place to get one?
90.8mm, and anyone who builds turbos should be able to help you out.
One more question, would you consider using the 11.5cm evo 9 turbine housing that seems to be a hit on ebay? Thanks.
I wouldn't trust anything on eBay to be as described. Consider if an 11.5cm2 housing were actually available, companies like FP would be all over it before it ever showed up on eBay. Sounds like a relabeling / marketing scam, just like the ".70 a/r" DSM bolt-on housings which are just a knockoff Evo III 7cm2 housing.

Justin, The 10cm T3 housing from the 20g's and sy/ty have enough meat to be ported to accept the TD06H? Currently was on a Td05H 20G
Sure- the 8cm2 T3 housing from the factory 17C Sy/Ty turbo is already cut for a TD06 turbine...no reason it wouldn't work.
 
Is it possible to clock a MHI 20g? I'll be using an external tial 38mm gate off the o2. Undo the big snap ring and spin cover? On my 90 the downfire housing fires straight into my motor mount. So I need to clock it about 8 degrees and just want to make sure I can. Thanks justin
 
Edit: I meant what could I except to pay someone. Not asking justin directly
Depends on the quality of the work you want to get done.

If you're talking about the services of someone using a Harbor Freight screwdriver set inside a one-car garage, then under $100 should be acceptable. If you want the job done by someone with experience who has the proper tools to check things like shaft runout and a media-blaster to make sure the turbo is as good as it was when it was new, then $more.

Is it possible to clock a MHI 20g? I'll be using an external tial 38mm gate off the o2. Undo the big snap ring and spin cover? On my 90 the downfire housing fires straight into my motor mount. So I need to clock it about 8 degrees and just want to make sure I can. Thanks justin
Absolutely- but if the turbo is internally-gated, it's going to screw up the tension and function of the actuator.
 
Hey Jus, What's the safe bore for me to machine a T3 10cm housing for it to accept a TD06H turbine? I ask you because i have access to a machine shop and would love to do it myself and have to send it out.
Thanks in advance
 
We have a turbo on a record attempt car here that during a boost leak test will bleed air past the seal on the compressor side into the oiling system. It will not hold pressure and our car has gone slower because of it. Someone gave us another 14b to try that is a fresh rebuild. No idea who rebuilt it or what they did, but both housings are spotless, both wheels are spotless and there is no shaft play. Doing the same boost leak test on the bench and this one leaks air into the oiling system like the one on the car. I tried an old unknown mileage 13g and it does the same thing. Not one of them hold any air and bleed off quickly. All on the bench with a blocked off j-pipe.

Have you seen or heard of this with other td05 turbos or any other turbos? We are shooting for the Colorado 14b record, but need a car that can hold a boost leak test so we can make sure we have all of our bases covered.
 
We have a turbo on a record attempt car here that during a boost leak test will bleed air past the seal on the compressor side into the oiling system. It will not hold pressure and our car has gone slower because of it. Someone gave us another 14b to try that is a fresh rebuild. No idea who rebuilt it or what they did, but both housings are spotless, both wheels are spotless and there is no shaft play. Doing the same boost leak test on the bench and this one leaks air into the oiling system like the one on the car. I tried an old unknown mileage 13g and it does the same thing. Not one of them hold any air and bleed off quickly. All on the bench with a blocked off j-pipe.

Have you seen or heard of this with other td05 turbos or any other turbos? We are shooting for the Colorado 14b record, but need a car that can hold a boost leak test so we can make sure we have all of our bases covered.

I've seen that leak on almost all DSM's. Maybe it's just the age of the turbos. How quickly does it leak? My standard for BLT's is max leakage of 7 psi in 15 seconds starting at 20psi.
 
We have a turbo on a record attempt car here that during a boost leak test will bleed air past the seal on the compressor side into the oiling system. It will not hold pressure and our car has gone slower because of it. Someone gave us another 14b to try that is a fresh rebuild. No idea who rebuilt it or what they did, but both housings are spotless, both wheels are spotless and there is no shaft play. Doing the same boost leak test on the bench and this one leaks air into the oiling system like the one on the car. I tried an old unknown mileage 13g and it does the same thing. Not one of them hold any air and bleed off quickly. All on the bench with a blocked off j-pipe.

Have you seen or heard of this with other td05 turbos or any other turbos? We are shooting for the Colorado 14b record, but need a car that can hold a boost leak test so we can make sure we have all of our bases covered.

As far as I know, any turbo is going to do this being that the dynamic sealing ring never seals 100% on either the turbine or compressor side. This is why you can't use dynamic-seal turbos on draw-thru carbureted applications....vacuum will always be drawn around the sealing ring causing a pile of issues. These applications require an older carbon-seal design on the compressor side which allows a bit of drag to the shaft since the thrust collar is always contacting the carbon seal face.

Turbos have gas control rings; these are dynamic seals just like your piston rings which means they have a tiny gap in them when installed. It's normal when not in operation that some pressure will bleed through the gas control rings and into bearing housing and through the oil drain. However we're talking about thousands of an inch gap, maybe enough to put 1psi or so into the crankcase.

-Michael
 
Hmm. I will give the new turbo a shot and see if i get back what I lost. After the install I will do another boost leak test.
 
Hey Justin. I'm on a diesel project and would like to pick your brain if ya don't mind. Its not DSM related so I hope I'm not breaking any rules. The engine I have is an Isuzu 3.9 liter 4bd1t. It came from a box truck. Stock output is 126 HP 250 lb tq. The stock turbo is a tiny t25. This engine is very easily tuned by simply turning up the max fuel screw on the injection pump. Guys are getting 250hp 450 tq on a stock pump and injectors. I'm not wanting that kind of power but I'd like to get it up to around 180-190hp. Its going into a 96 Tacoma so that should be more than enough. What I'm wondering is if you think an hx30 would be able to do this and still spool pretty fast. Max rpm is 3k and I don't plan on revving any higher so spool is key. The t25 could probably get me there but I think it would be working its guts out. If you have any other suggestions please throw them at me.
 
Hey Justin. I'm on a diesel project and would like to pick your brain if ya don't mind. Its not DSM related so I hope I'm not breaking any rules. The engine I have is an Isuzu 3.9 liter 4bd1t. It came from a box truck. Stock output is 126 HP 250 lb tq. The stock turbo is a tiny t25. This engine is very easily tuned by simply turning up the max fuel screw on the injection pump. Guys are getting 250hp 450 tq on a stock pump and injectors. I'm not wanting that kind of power but I'd like to get it up to around 180-190hp. Its going into a 96 Tacoma so that should be more than enough. What I'm wondering is if you think an hx30 would be able to do this and still spool pretty fast. Max rpm is 3k and I don't plan on revving any higher so spool is key. The t25 could probably get me there but I think it would be working its guts out. If you have any other suggestions please throw them at me.

hx30 wont spool anything like a t25. Diesels power output is a lot different, but I dont think an hx30 would be required for only 190hp.
 
I kinda had a DSM flashback and considered a t28 compressor but that's a little more expensive to accomplish than I was hoping. The t25 has extensive compressor damage so it can't be ran without a build and compressor. I'd really just hate to spend that kind of money on a t25. I'm kind of kicking myself for all the t25 turbos I've thrown away thinking there's nothing I'll ever use these things for. I'm going to try to sandblast the turbine housing tomorrow so I can read what a/r it is. Its pretty big and its a free floater so it really doesn't spool as fast as you'd think compared to a stock DSM. I'd really like to try a 14b on it but the housing would be way too small. Maybe build a tdo6 14b hybrid? Thanks again guys.
 
Hey Justin. I'm on a diesel project and would like to pick your brain if ya don't mind. Its not DSM related so I hope I'm not breaking any rules. The engine I have is an Isuzu 3.9 liter 4bd1t. It came from a box truck. Stock output is 126 HP 250 lb tq. The stock turbo is a tiny t25. This engine is very easily tuned by simply turning up the max fuel screw on the injection pump. Guys are getting 250hp 450 tq on a stock pump and injectors. I'm not wanting that kind of power but I'd like to get it up to around 180-190hp. Its going into a 96 Tacoma so that should be more than enough. What I'm wondering is if you think an hx30 would be able to do this and still spool pretty fast. Max rpm is 3k and I don't plan on revving any higher so spool is key. The t25 could probably get me there but I think it would be working its guts out. If you have any other suggestions please throw them at me.
There's still a pretty decent gap between a T25 and a HX30...I'd be afraid you couldn't spool it. I had a local guy who fit a 56/83mm WH1C in place of the tiny H1C which came from the factory on the 4BT Cummins used in his rat rod....the end result? 2psi peak boost on the stock fuel system with the turbine housing he was running. It wouldn't spool it before the engine was tapped out.

Honestly, have you looked into the GT2560? It came stock on some Isuzu NQR diesels...uses the same turbine wheel as the DSM TB2578 (Big T28), and the compressor is almost the same as our TB2578's as well. You may even be able to adapt a GT2560 CHRA into your existing turbine and compressor housings to keep fitment simple with a little machining. ;)

Does anybody still make a t3 flanged tdo6 housing? FP maybe?
I have one I'll never use. PM me for details.
 
hey Justin,

got any thoughts on this wheel [9 blades TD05H] vs a standard TD05H?

worth the $ to change a stock TD05H one, for use on a sleeper 20G

thanks!

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