Questions for Justin...

[JusMX141]

Not sure what compressor configuration that particular uses, though it's probably an 8-blade 58/83mm wheel if it's that cheap. Aside from getting a used HX35 cover machined to fit that particular wheel, your options may be slim to none. Still a good deal nonetheless.

 

[pindlepiper]

I probably will not go this route because of the difficulty finding a compressor cover or having to have one machined. I sent you a PM. Thanks for the help.

 

[deflator]

Justin,
I am trying to build a billet 20g but the compressor housing just won't go on far enough to get the snap ring to really secure or to align the dowel pin.

I think it is a K1 wheel if it matters. Comp housing is an ebay stock-appearing unit for making a 20g.

I am sure the internals are put together correctly. The oil seal went into place with a click and I had the thrust parts balanced. I can't figure out why the comp housing won't seat far enough onto the CHRA?

Thanks

 

[JusMX141]

Take the o-ring out and try to make it fit- sometimes the o-ring is too thick or the dowel pin is too wide which requires the center housing to be modified.

 

[deflator]

Ok. I did that and it fit, then I greased the o-ring up much better and made it fit, but now the turbo won't turn freely when I put the snap ring on. Oil sealing ring probably got deranged?

It spins freely, considering the heavy assembly lube I used in it, until I put on the snap ring. It spins with some stiffness now, is that correct?

 

[JusMX141]

Installing the compressor cover snap ring should have no effect on the turbo's ability to spin freely unless something's machined wrong. I'm at a loss there, unfortunately.

 

[deflator]

Installing the compressor cover snap ring should have no effect on the turbo's ability to spin freely unless something's machined wrong. I'm at a loss there, unfortunately.

How stiffly should a turbo turn with just assembly lube in it?

It must either be that I don't know what to expect from a rebuild or the ebay housing is not machined right?

 

[RedTsi_PR]

Justin, If i send my HY35 to have it worked to accept a 60x86 compressor wheel, Does that makes it in other words a HE351???

 

[dfootedsm]

1) Kamak Dynamics / Kinugawa Turbo

2) Sure, if you're having problems with surge that you'd like to solve or you're seeking more airflow and want to put $200 into a billet compressor wheel and a rebalance....otherwise, I'd leave it as-is.

Justin is the nickel_sport wheel on ebay any good I am having a hard time finding the compressor wheel from Kinugawa
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Bille...Parts_Accessories&hash=item418055f1a4&vxp=mtr
The car the turbo came from was in a front end collision ,it looks like a rock or something got into my intake and my wheel took some punishment the wheel damage isnt uniform very random. There no play on the turbo up and down or in and out

 

[lasthope05]

Does anybody know the standard hx35 turbine wheel size with the 54mm/78mm compressor wheel. Looking on bae and there are 3 different turbine wheel sizes. Also anybody know of a good place to buy one.

 

[JusMX141]

How stiffly should a turbo turn with just assembly lube in it?

Not that stiffly unless the assembly lube isn't oil-based.

Justin, If i send my HY35 to have it worked to accept a 60x86 compressor wheel, Does that makes it in other words a HE351???

Essentially...though a true HE351's compressor cover and center housing are slightly different. I wouldn't advise running this wheel combination for a max-power situation unless you're on E85.

Justin is the nickel_sport wheel on ebay any good I am having a hard time finding the compressor wheel from Kinugawa
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Bille...Parts_Accessories&hash=item418055f1a4&vxp=mtr
The car the turbo came from was in a front end collision ,it looks like a rock or something got into my intake and my wheel took some punishment the wheel damage isnt uniform very random. There no play on the turbo up and down or in and out

Never run any of their billet wheels, so I can't offer any input...sorry.

Does anybody know the standard hx35 turbine wheel size with the 54mm/78mm compressor wheel. Looking on bae and there are 3 different turbine wheel sizes. Also anybody know of a good place to buy one.

70/60mm is the only HX35 turbine I've ever seen in use. I wouldn't buy one from BAE...try TraderGreg instead if you're not buying OEM.

 

[deflator]

Not that stiffly unless the assembly lube isn't oil-based.

Lithium based grease. It turns easily by hand, but does not continue turning after being let go at all. I think I will try mounting it up and priming it to see how it turns then.

 

[mean4g]

I have done quite a bit of searching and haven't really come to any conclusions on these exactly questions concerning...

FP Green (73HTA) vs bolt-on (.55AR) HX35

-from the data I see both turbo's spool to 20 psi "about" the same 3600-3800 depending on the setup, and have similar max flow potential. 52-53 lb/min in the BEP housing vs 54 lb/min rated on the HTA (although Robert Young claims it has been logged at 58 lb/min)
-which one generally provides better airflow at 20 psi?
-FP Green better pump gas?
-Also which one will make 30 PSI quicker? Which one will have more airflow/power at that boost level? (from my convo with Gofer, he thinks the HX35 will spool 300-400 ish faster than the FP Green to 30PSI) thoughts?
-Would the transient response of the smaller/lighter FP Green rotating assembly be noticeable over the 35?
-From the info I have seen the power delivery and airflow between these two turbo I would assume they would delivery power very similar? thoughts to those that have experience with both?
-thoughts and opinions on which one you would select..and why? (FYI the prices are very similar between these two turbos to install, so this should not be a factor)

 

[chaclark83]

There's still a pretty decent gap between a T25 and a HX30...I'd be afraid you couldn't spool it. I had a local guy who fit a 56/83mm WH1C in place of the tiny H1C which came from the factory on the 4BT Cummins used in his rat rod....the end result? 2psi peak boost on the stock fuel system with the turbine housing he was running. It wouldn't spool it before the engine was tapped out.

Honestly, have you looked into the GT2560? It came stock on some Isuzu NQR diesels...uses the same turbine wheel as the DSM TB2578 (Big T28), and the compressor is almost the same as our TB2578's as well. You may even be able to adapt a GT2560 CHRA into your existing turbine and compressor housings to keep fitment simple with a little machining.


I have one I'll never use. PM me for details.

Well I got a steal on a new in box borg warner. The box says model number s2a. The tag on the chra says p/n 114-3601. I cant find any specs with these numbers and im pretty sure im going to need a smaller turbine housing. Rough estimate the turbine is about 10mm bigger than the t25 and it has a larger twin scroll housing. looks like crap spooling if i run this setup. Its non wastegated too. Would the s2a maybe use the same housing as an s200?

 

[JusMX141]

I have done quite a bit of searching and haven't really come to any conclusions on these exactly questions concerning...

FP Green (73HTA) vs bolt-on (.55AR) HX35

-from the data I see both turbo's spool to 20 psi "about" the same 3600-3800 depending on the setup, and have similar max flow potential. 52-53 lb/min in the BEP housing vs 54 lb/min rated on the HTA (although Robert Young claims it has been logged at 58 lb/min)
-which one generally provides better airflow at 20 psi?
-FP Green better pump gas?
-Also which one will make 30 PSI quicker? Which one will have more airflow/power at that boost level? (from my convo with Gofer, he thinks the HX35 will spool 300-400 ish faster than the FP Green to 30PSI) thoughts?
-Would the transient response of the smaller/lighter FP Green rotating assembly be noticeable over the 35?
-From the info I have seen the power delivery and airflow between these two turbo I would assume they would delivery power very similar? thoughts to those that have experience with both?
-thoughts and opinions on which one you would select..and why? (FYI the prices are very similar between these two turbos to install, so this should not be a factor)

You can't compare anyone else's spool data to yours, ever. Spool and horsepower data are directly related in that none will ever be the same between any two cars even if they're spec'd identically.

At the end of the day, you're still comparing a turbo with a 73mm compressor exducer to one with a 78mm compressor exducer....and we all know the 7-blade 54/78 HX35 compressor is capable of 60+ lb/min depending on turbine housing selection. That in mind, the 73mm wheel has a better chance of spooling quicker and the 78mm wheel will produce more airflow if it's allowed to do so.

With the HX35 you can either go for spool and choose the BEP bolt-on housing which will limit airflow production to the mid-50's, or you can go T3 and make the most of the wheel setup. The FP turbo isn't quite as versatile, housing-wise...and will definitely cost more to repair in the event of a failure being you can't buy HTA wheels anywhere but FP.

Well I got a steal on a new in box borg warner. The box says model number s2a. The tag on the chra says p/n 114-3601. I cant find any specs with these numbers and im pretty sure im going to need a smaller turbine housing. Rough estimate the turbine is about 10mm bigger than the t25 and it has a larger twin scroll housing. looks like crap spooling if i run this setup. Its non wastegated too. Would the s2a maybe use the same housing as an s200?

S2A is the predecessor to the S200 series much like the H1 Holsets are just older versions of the HX turbos. You're correct in your assumption that spool will be horrendous using the factory housing- proof being that it's non-wastegated. The housing is so large that the turbo didn't need a wastegate to control boost on it's factory-intended application....so that means spool and peak boost will suffer if used on a small-displacement engine.

You're going to end up putting a bunch of money into making this turbo work and the end result is it still may never work properly. I'd look into selling it off at a profit if you got a good deal and use that to put toward something that will work much better than a Borg dinosaur.

 

[chaclark83]

I got it for $120. did a lil measuring and the compressor is about 40x61mm and the turbine is about 49x61mm. the best info i can find says the housing is .90a/r. i just cant find any offerings for other stock turbines for this thing. i know the nissan patrol used a .53 wastegated housing and there were serveral john deer offerings and even a volvo offering but i cant find any specs on any of those. Know anybody that wants a trade for this one??? thanks again justin.

 

[chaclark83]

I've got a lead on an h1c and a gt2259. Both are non wastegated. H1c is of course cheaper but the question is which one would have more aftermarket turbine housing options. Thanks Justin.

 

[JusMX141]

I'm still a bit shocked the S2A has such a small compressor wheel for the size of the turbine wheel and housing. Clearly a turbo that was built for an item like a generator which is set at one steady RPM regardless of engine load.

The H1C is going to be in the same boat though it would have a larger compressor than the S2A. Keep in mind the example from the 4BT I gave you in a previous quote where the turbo wouldn't even spool.

That leaves the GT2259.

 

[chaclark83]

Yeah the s2a is small because it was built for a caterpillar earth mover with a 4.4l engine. The h1c is the stock one from the 4bt and no idea what the gt2259 came off of. I have actually checked out its compressor maps though and it seems to be pretty efficient on the 3.9 Isuzu, even intercooled.

 

[chaclark83]

Hey Justin. Just out of curiosity how well do you think the borg would run on an older mechanical injection gm 6.5?

 

[JusMX141]

No clue- I have no idea what the airflow demands of that engine are. I know they came with different variations of the IHI RHC6 from the factory...which would have a 2.75"/ 1.95" (70mm/49.5mm) wheel; obviously a 40/61mm wheel would be an enormous downgrade.

 

[chaclark83]

Well I dropped the dime on the gt2259. If I can figure out how to post a pic from my phone I will but its got a weird hole about 1/4" diameter drilled and tapped into the chra. You can see the turbine shaft through the hole. No idea what it could be for.

 

[Seamus]

Don't use that cover! They are too narrow it will all go together fine but the clearence is just too tight. You neex to use a feal mhi cover with a stanfard dimension wheel. Some guy on here sold md a knockoff covrr as a real mhi cover. I should have gotten pics insteax of going on his word. I used it anyways thinking it wouldnt matter. And it chewed up the wheel. Then i tried again using another chra and it did it again confirming the issue. The knockoff downfire cover is designed for a slighlt shorter wheel. TE="deflator, post: 153432650, member: 76836"]How stiffly should a turbo turn with just assembly lube in it?

It must either be that I don't know what to expect from a rebuild or the ebay housing is not machined right?[/QUOTE]
Dont

 

[DJ Raydiate]

Hey everyone. I am new to the whole turbo thing so here it goes. A guy down the street has a GST that I am thinking of trading him for my GS (he has a silver GS as well). The turbo is blowing oil (bad seals I think). My question is would that cause any internal damage as well? I am really thinking about trading him my running GS for his non running GST but if I have to go too far into the engine then I will just keep mine and look for a different deal. If it is as simple as getting the turbo rebuilt and tossing it back on, then I'll be willing to do the trade. Please let me know any input that one has.

 

[Seamus]

Hey everyone. I am new to the whole turbo thing so here it goes. A guy down the street has a GST that I am thinking of trading him for my GS (he has a silver GS as well). The turbo is blowing oil (bad seals I think). My question is would that cause any internal damage as well? I am really thinking about trading him my running GS for his non running GST but if I have to go too far into the engine then I will just keep mine and look for a different deal. If it is as simple as getting the turbo rebuilt and tossing it back on, then I'll be willing to do the trade. Please let me know any input that one has.

Well u often can't rebuild t25's from these cars, of its not cost effective at least. They will literally go to pieces sometimes. But replaceing the turbo with a 14b or something is a cheap repair and a small upgrade.

A blown turbo also should not cause any engine damage. Just make sure the oil lines are clean and clear and maybe clean out all the blowby oil built up in the intake piping and intercooler.

And