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Questions for Justin...

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any idea what kind of flow rate a Holset HX40, with a billet 6 blade, and a t4 divided exhaust housing would be?
 
I just got a Bullseye S259 and i plan on feeding it from the head with -4an and -10an return. Bullseye's website says oil pressure shouldn't be lower than 60psi at normal rpms. What exactly is normal RPMs and do you know whats the max oil pressure is safe for this turbo.
If that's what Bullseye recommends, then do not feed from the head. "Normal" RPM range would be where the turbo operates, not at idle. I have zero experience with BW turbos, so I'd do what the manufacturer recommends.
Would a 16g install kit work for the 20g?
Depends what compressor cover it has, but the oil line accessories should be the same.
I also heard that with a 20g you don't need the j-pipe is that true?
Again, depends on what compressor cover it has.
And also, is there anything else I need to get to bolt on the 20g ie. exhaust manifold or something like that. Thanks a lot, Taylor.
Depends what turbine housing it has. There are many, many different variations of 20G's out there.

any idea what kind of flow rate a Holset HX40, with a billet 6 blade, and a t4 divided exhaust housing would be?
Around 70 lb/min, like any other 6-blade HX40. The turbine housing has no effect on the amount of airflow the compressor can generate unless it's too restrictive.
 
would a 12cm, .84 AR housing be enough to max out that setup?
 
Justin,

I have been tossing around the idea of running a velocity stack(or some type of taper like the BW turbos have) on the HX35 I purchased from you. I cant seem to find anything smaller than 6" OD and nothing at all that has a 2.25" ID. Is there anyone that you know of, that I could find a suitable velocity stack or tapered insert?

Or is this just one of those upgrades that is not going to really be worth a damn?
 
Yeah, I gotta side with Frank on this one. I've never used one nor do I know anyone that has used one, so unfortunately I have no honest input on the topic good or bad. I'm sure there are better ways to spend your money.
 
Just looking for anything I need to know about a turbo I just got (good/bad?, realistic HP, airflow, spool speed, reliability, etc).

compressor: 2.282"/2.950" (57.96mm/74.93mm)
On compressor housing: Garrett A/R .60 M24L B M -83.
On turbine housing: B1303 03 M1 63
P/N: 466159-5004 Garrett Turbochargers Allied Signal Automotive
I've got a S/N too if that helps in any way.

I'm getting that it's a 60-trim AR63 t3/t04e journal bearing flowing 50 or 53 lbs/min. Is that all accurate? Seems like it should flow more than that to me.

How will it compare to my 7-blade HX35 (for spool/hp/reliability/boost pressure capability)?

How much oil pressure should I give it?

Thanks!
 
Old-school T04E Garrett. Those 60-trims have been around since the 70's on various small diesels. There's nothing really efficient about it given today's choices- the HX35 absolutely blows it away in terms of airflow, reliability, and spool.

The OEM application had that particular turbo with a large non-wastegated twin-scroll turbine housing, limiting boost to 10psi or so. If it doesn't have a 360* thrust plate, you can bet the thrust parts will be trashed by the first oil change if you're running any amount of boost. I'd say the airflow limit will be around 28psi of boost.

It can make power- this was the compressor used in the Frank L5 20G, and I've had a customer of mine dyno just short of 450whp using a T04E60 with a T31 turbine in a .63 a/r single-scroll T3 turbine housing.
 
Thanks for the info. So it sounds like it would make more sense to ebay or craigslist it probably since I already have a couple holsets and a 16G.
I would. That thing will make some Honda guy's day. They throw the word "trim" around when discussing turbos as if they're comparing dicks or something. LOL

Is the precision 6152E a journal or BB?

Never mind..The E is journal, the RE is BB...
Both....and you answered your own question. :D

I remember reading that a 14b needs a restrictor would a fitting like this work? STM: OIL RESTRICTOR FITTING | GARRETT | DUAL BALL BEARING or do you have a better idea for me to look
Only if you're planning on feeding from the filter housing. You could get away with using a 1G OEM line from the head and it would be fine as long as you're not pushing the turbo well into the 20's of boost.

That fitting you linked will only thread into a Garrett GT's oil inlet, so it will not work on a 14B...not to mention the restrictor is far too small for a journal bearing turbo.
 
See I don't need you for everything. ;)

It's an E not RE.So it's journal.I have some pics of it, but it needs to be cleaned up.Possibly rebuilt.I'm not sure yet,Picking it up tuesday.
 
What are your recommendations on keeping an Evo III 16G alive at 30psi? I've had mine since 2005 and it's been perfect at 22-25psi, but as soon as I turned it up to 30+ it got a lot of in-out play (up-down is still the same as it's always been). I've now gotten it to actually hold 30 psi, not spiking that & then dropping. I just ran 11.681 and am hoping to keep improving on that without killing turbos. This is a daily driver, not a track-only car.
 
What are your recommendations on keeping an Evo III 16G alive at 30psi? I've had mine since 2005 and it's been perfect at 22-25psi, but as soon as I turned it up to 30+ it got a lot of in-out play (up-down is still the same as it's always been). I've now gotten it to actually hold 30 psi, not spiking that & then dropping. I just ran 11.681 and am hoping to keep improving on that without killing turbos. This is a daily driver, not a track-only car.

Upgraded thrust plate, and collars. Also try some high zinc oil. My 20g lived at 30+ for a long time with the standard thrust, and vr1 20w-50 synthetic.
 
I would. That thing will make some Honda guy's day. They throw the word "trim" around when discussing turbos as if they're comparing dicks or something. LOL

ROFL

That is so true... I just got a dose of the Honda "trim" fanboys tonight. They came over to me at a Sonic I was at because they had heard the turbo, and one of the first words out of their mouths was "trim". I responded bluntly with "...it's an MHI 18g. It isn't a Garrett..." and universally their response was WTF...

:tease: TRIM
 
What are your recommendations on keeping an Evo III 16G alive at 30psi? I've had mine since 2005 and it's been perfect at 22-25psi, but as soon as I turned it up to 30+ it got a lot of in-out play (up-down is still the same as it's always been). I've now gotten it to actually hold 30 psi, not spiking that & then dropping. I just ran 11.681 and am hoping to keep improving on that without killing turbos. This is a daily driver, not a track-only car.
Upgraded thrust hardware. I now use it in all 20G's that I build, and some 16G's at the customer's request.

You're greatly exceeding the level that Mitsubishi intended the turbo's OEM thrust hardware to function at, and it seems that number varies for certain turbos. I had a guy run one of my 20G's back when I used standard thrust hardware at 22psi for almost two years straight, then decided to turn up the wick to 28psi. Within a month or two, a massive amount of thrust wear allowed the compressor wheel to hit the housing....not sure what oil he was using, however. Ever since I've just been defaulting to the better thrust hardware in all 20G's.

If you already notice a decent amount of in/out play, it's pretty safe to say the compressor wheel and housing are damaged from the wheel rubbing. There is zero tolerance to in/out play before wheel damage occurs.
 
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