Questions for Justin...

[rlacasse1]

Back bank would be one, Front bank would be the other. That would work out the exhaust flow. Turbo gets place over trans that way there would be equal length runners from both banks.

 

[JusMX141]

I'd probably go 17cm T4 in that situation. It sounds like you're willing to run a lot of boost to achieve that power level, and that along with the 50% increase in displacement would likely negate the lag you'd have when running that particular housing on a 2.0L 4-cylinder.

 

[rlacasse1]

Well I was just curious. When I return home I will be building something to that effect (at least I hope). And I'm just unsure what would be a fun streetable turbo that makes devent power, but makes it pretty quickly. As it will damn near never be tracked. And I may not necessarily even shoot for that high of a goal.

 

[cl1ckclack]

Hey justin, I'm sure your tired of me PMing you by now... i was just reading up on your Holset/Garrett oil drain thread and it got me curious. is this drain big enough for my T04E-50trim, or should i order something bigger?

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[TSIturbo91]

Hey, I'm rebuilding my 14b and I'm not sure what the best way to clean the exhaust side fins would be. I used a pick to scrap off some of the carbon build up but it seems a bit to abrasive for getting it as close to new as I can get it. And break clean didn't seem to soften it up much. In searching I saw some people used easy off oven cleaner but didn't put results of how it worked or if it even did.

 

[ed1380]

Any reason you want it perfectly clean? It'll get soot on it as soon as it starts

 

[JusMX141]

Hey justin, I'm sure your tired of me PMing you by now... i was just reading up on your Holset/Garrett oil drain thread and it got me curious. is this drain big enough for my T04E-50trim, or should i order something bigger?

If it's -10AN, that's about as big as you'll find unless you go custom. Theoretically, it is too small- yes, but it works well for some.

Hey, I'm rebuilding my 14b and I'm not sure what the best way to clean the exhaust side fins would be. I used a pick to scrap off some of the carbon build up but it seems a bit to abrasive for getting it as close to new as I can get it. And break clean didn't seem to soften it up much. In searching I saw some people used easy off oven cleaner but didn't put results of how it worked or if it even did.

Media blaster. It's the only way you'll go from this:

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to this:

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[Kyle_T]

Kind of off topic here but Id figure some others might chime in.

Is there anyway to confirm a turbo is pushing oil past the seals? My buddies rb25 just started burning oil. It never smoked before, but now all of a sudden its smoking alot at when you rev it and at idle, doesnt matter if its hot or cold.

We pulled his downpipe and it seems dry, same with the turbine wheel from what I could see. Pulled the intake and didnt see any oil what so ever on the compressor side, pulled the intercooler pipes and not a drop of oil in them. Turbo has no shaft play. I believe the turbo is a precision 50trim, if it matters.


Anything else we can try to rule out the turbo being the cause of it smoking?

 

[JusMX141]

Not without disassembly. I could tell you whether it was pushing oil or not in 3 seconds once the heat sheild is removed if the turbine's not obviously wet like the photo I posted above.

If it's turbo-related, the smoke will normally start as light smoke on decel after a pull and slowly persist into slight smoke under load and heavy smoke under decel.

 

[Kyle_T]

Hmm yea didnt know if there were any other tell tail signs. But its starts smoking pretty good a couple seconds after the car is started. I dont really think its the turbo since it seems to be in really nice shape. Guess we'll have to dive into some other stuff later. Thanks though

 

[JusMX141]

Yeah that definitely doesn't sound turbo-related to me. Idle is when the pressure and volume of oil entering the turbo as well as the crankcase pressure is the least it could possibly be. Sounds to me like you have a valve seal issue.

 

[cl1ckclack]

i have no problem going with something custom if it is going to prolong the life of my turbo. how big SHOULD it be?

 

[cola]

Justin I have an oem small 16g and when I bought it I knew it had a small amount of in/out shaft play, but when it is on the car with oil in it theres no play whatsoever, feels like a brand new turbo. Is this normal? Sign of failure coming?

 

[JusMX141]

i have no problem going with something custom if it is going to prolong the life of my turbo. how big SHOULD it be?

It should be large enough to effectively drain the amount of oil entering the turbo at the inlet.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...turbo-users-your-oil-drain-may-too-small.html

Keep in mind an undersized drain with no kinks is better than a large drain with a huge kink in it.

Justin I have an oem small 16g and when I bought it I knew it had a small amount of in/out shaft play, but when it is on the car with oil in it theres no play whatsoever, feels like a brand new turbo. Is this normal? Sign of failure coming?

If there's been oil in the cartridge and you can not feel any more play, I'd say it's fine...but keep an eye on it. Check it every oil change or so just to make sure it's not getting worse.

There has to be some tolerance for oil to pass between the thrust collar and plate.

 

[TSIturbo91]

Hi Justin, I'm in the middle of a turbo rebuild as stated in a previous post and I noticed some cracks in my exhaust side of the turbo housing. One of which is all the way through the housing. I need my car to be reliable for long distance job searches. I just lost my job due to layoffs and the closest area hiring is a 3 hour drive. Anyway I thought I'd see if you have any for sale or a recommendation of a place to get a replacement. I've found some used 14b's for around $100.00 but I thought I'd see if the housing could be bought cheaper from you. Also thought I'd see if you maybe have a 7cm housing as it would be a small upgrade. I found a couple on eBay but thought I'd support a DSMer if I can first. I've got so many drive drivetrain upgrades for my build I'm worried I'll lose drivability not pushing enough power. I didn't think I'd have to have it on the road so soon and I wasn't ready to throw it back together in a pinch.

 

[JusMX141]

I don't have any housings, and even if I did this thread is not intended to be the place to inquire about parts that I may have.

There's a good chance that whatever 14B you'd find would already have cracks the size of the San Andreas fault...and cracks in the housing have nothing to do with making the car unreliable for long distance trips- it's more of a problem concerning turbo operation and boost control.


A word of advice- don't buy any housings on eBay.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...1680-china-ebay-7cm-td05-turbine-housing.html

 

[Kyle_T]

Yeah that definitely doesn't sound turbo-related to me. Idle is when the pressure and volume of oil entering the turbo as well as the crankcase pressure is the least it could possibly be. Sounds to me like you have a valve seal issue.

Pulled the turbo and the turbine housing and downpipe had a good amount of oil in them. Thinking the seals are blown, although the compressor side is completely dry. What seems kind of weird though is, it never smoked before. We idled it for 20+ mins and did a lap around the block. No smoke at all. But then he drove about 10miles round trip and now its smoking like a chimney. Will start smoking about 5 seconds after the car is started. Smoke is more white than blue and definitely smells like burning oil.

Im pretty sure the turbo is a precision 5557 journal bearing. Any idea what size restrictor should be used for the oil feed? I tried searching and couldnt find much.

 

[JusMX141]

Im pretty sure the turbo is a precision 5557 journal bearing. Any idea what size restrictor should be used for the oil feed? I tried searching and couldnt find much.

Verify the oil drain is straight and doesn't have any kinks. The call PTE and explain your issue- then ask them what oil pressure they recommend entering the cartridge. I'd sure hope they're able to tell you this information.

If it were me, I'd shoot for around 65psi under full load. That could mean a restrictor of various possible sizes based on what the oil pressure currently is. Trouble is there's enough oil entering the turbine housing that you can physically see it, the damage may already be done.

 

[Kyle_T]

Yea he is going to have it rebuilt but Im just asking because we'd rather not have it blow the seals again.

No kinks in the oil return, I believe its a 10an stainless line. But what is weird is the hole for the oil passage in the drain flange is a little bit smaller than the hole on the turbo. The turbo has that square hole and the flange is a little bit smaller circle. Do you think this would cause excess pressure? I wish I had a picture of it. Hopefully that makes some sense but Ill try and find a picture later of what Im talking about.

 

[JusMX141]

The turbo has that square hole and the flange is a little bit smaller circle. Do you think this would cause excess pressure? I wish I had a picture of it.

Wouldn't necessarily cause more pressure to be generated, but it would surely effect the turbo's ability to drain. I have an entire thread on this issue already.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...turbo-users-your-oil-drain-may-too-small.html

 

[Kyle_T]

Thanks for the link and I just sent you a pm.

 

[TSIturbo91]

Media blaster. It's the only way you'll go from this:

to this:

Would you recommend sand blasting or soda blasting to clean up the turbine wheel? If sand blasting is to aggressive a media I'll have to get set up to soda blast it. I just want it done right the first time.

 

[JusMX141]

Sand is too coarse, baking soda is too fine. You'll want a glass bead media somewhere in the middle-ground; the one I prefer is generally used for blasting aluminum, but I like it that way because it doesn't damage anything. I can even blast yellow metal parts like thrust plates with zero damage. The only downside is that it breaks down quickly, and it's a little on the pricey side...but it's worth it.

 

[gsxtreme1987]

Hey Justin,

I just got a Bullseye S259 and i plan on feeding it from the head with -4an and -10an return. Bullseye's website says oil pressure shouldn't be lower than 60psi at normal rpms. What exactly is normal RPMs and do you know whats the max oil pressure is safe for this turbo.

I plan on feeding from head with BSE and oil port mods.

 

[tay97gst]

Justin, in the near future im gonna be putting on a 20g and installing all supporting mods to do so. Would a 16g install kit work for the 20g? I also heard that with a 20g you don't need the j-pipe is that true? And also, is there anything else I need to get to bolt on the 20g ie. exhaust manifold or something like that. Thanks a lot, Taylor.