Questions for Justin...

[JusMX141]

Might even be able to get away with a T25, 13G, or something along those lines. A few vids on Youtube have the guys running ball bearing GT25's so they must work as well- I forget to factor that the ability to rev to 14K will generate a ton of exhaust energy regardless of engine displacement. Maybe join a few bike forums to get some input of what others have used successfully- I honestly have no valid advice for you.

 

[BigBeans]

Might even be able to get away with a T25, 13G, or something along those lines. A few vids on Youtube have the guys running ball bearing GT25's so they must work as well- I forget to factor that the ability to rev to 14K will generate a ton of exhaust energy regardless of engine displacement. Maybe join a few bike forums to get some input of what others have used successfully- I honestly have no valid advice for you.

No worries man.

There isn't much info around because most people boost 1000-1400cc bike motors.

A turbo bike has some major drawbacks, i'm just kicking the idea around a bit.

 

[Reese92tsi]

Thank you. Looks like I'll be going with the bep .70

Just got the bep t3 .70 and there's enough space for pie cuts. I'm so glad that I do not have to relocate the alternator. Thanks Justin

 

[boosted99_420]

what would be the best budget turbo for hitting mid 11s and still have some growing room? I was thinking a 20g or something

 

[JusMX141]

You can definitely run 11's with a 20G. That would probably your quickest-spooling option, and possibly the cheapest because you won't need to buy any additional oil lines or install hardware.

 

[Michael@FP]

Justin,

What would you recommend for a budget turbo on a 750cc bike?

Its a stock motor and has 12.3:1 compression. I'd probably drop to 10:1 or so with a head gasket or a set of pistons. Stock it probably makes about 125whp, i'd be looking for 225ish on 93 octane.

I'll figure something out for an intercooler and plumbing.

Thoughts?

Hope this isn't stepping on Justins toes but since he didn't have a recommendation I figure I might give my .02.

Most of the Liter bike guys really really like the 2860R(S) there are quite a few guys running this turbo in it's stock form and making great power. We have a few customers that do the salt flats that run our 2871HTA and so far the feedback on them has been 100% positive but might be a little more than what you're looking for.

-Michael

 

[JusMX141]

Hope this isn't stepping on Justins toes but since he didn't have a recommendation I figure I might give my .02.

Absolutely not- any valid info is always welcome.

So if the GT28 series works well on liter bikes, would a GT25 turbo be a good choice for something with a little smaller displacement?

 

[Michael@FP]

Absolutely not- any valid info is always welcome.

So if the GT28 series works well on liter bikes, would a GT25 turbo be a good choice for something with a little smaller displacement?

There are a few 600-750CC guys running the T25's off of DSM's on some budget builds. Might be a little small for a high revving high compression liter bike though.

-Michael

 

[Maximuscr31]

I have a friend who put a evo 3 16g on his 750 gixxer. He rode it for 2 days and sold it. He said it was too fast and too scary and would kill himself.... I don't know spool up or power band but it was enough to scare him silly.

 

[Michael@FP]

There's a few guys we sell 35R's to that run them at the salt flats.

-Michael

 

[Maximuscr31]

We have a local semi pro with a 35r busa that is a track only bike. I keep telling him he needs to add a sidecar to haul the humongous cojones he must have.

 

[GST2012GSX]

He has to add a sidecar, but on both sides,. That bike must be hell on wheels! He doesnt have cojones, he has cojonsotes to drive that bike.

 

[Maximuscr31]

Enough highjacking Justin... Sorry. I will leave you with this link though.
Darren Burnett Racing
I bet the snall gt series turbos would be optimal but anything up to a 14b would probably work well for anyone seeking death on two wheels.

 

[Alucards_blood]

I've been searching for a few days and can't seem to find the answer. What's the weight of an MHI 20g compressor wheel? The attached picture is of a billet 20g wheel.

 

[JusMX141]

I'm not sure- never weighed one. Keep in mind that billet aluminum is denser with less air pockets than cast, so is not necessarily lighter but more durable. A billet wheel's blades can be machined thinner and the hub area of the wheel cut smaller in order to allow more surface area to the blades without becoming unreliable.

 

[cl1ckclack]

hey justin, quick question.

what would make the pull from spool up inconsistent? i build boost, and hold boost fine. but it seems as if sometimes it pulls hard, and other times it doesn't pull any harder then without boost.

 

[JusMX141]

Sounds like a boost leak or timing issue to me- perhaps phantom knock-related. Are you logging knock while this is happening?

 

[cl1ckclack]

Sounds like a boost leak or timing issue to me- perhaps phantom knock-related. Are you logging knock while this is happening?

i haven't yet, no. the car is currently waiting for a new motor

but once she's up and running again i will do some logging.

but unless you are talking about mechanical timing, i don't think its that. because it was doing it when i bought the car, on a stock tune, and the AFRs just kept in check with a SAFC, and it still did it after i had my ecu flashed via ECUFlash

 

[blktalon3]

Need your opinion on something. I'm thinking about changing setups. I currently Have a sc6152r, t3 punishment manifold, 272's, stock IM,(full mods in profile). It seems like I'm spooling kinda late. My turbine wheel is also damaged. I'm not seeing full spool till probably 5500, and honestly isn't getting into boost until after 3000rpms. Its seems like it taking a long time to start spooling. Other than the late spool I have no complaints when it gets into boost, it pull hard. The main issue I having is brake boosting, its taking way too long to get up on the converter and I have a 10" Sinister max stall. So its something that normal I'm probably gonna switch set-ups and I was thinking holset. If I do should I sell the manifold and go with a bolt on housing or keep it and get a open t3 housing? also which holset would probably be best. I'm looking for mid 10 second times with fast enough spool to be able to get up on the converter with out nitrous.
Thanks

 

[Potenze]

My evo3 16g has developed some in and out shaft play probably because I took it upon my self to rebuild it when I should have had someone who knew what there doing do it.

Can you identify it? he says its a pte 20g.

But I found a local turbo that doesn't seem to bad apart from the wheel damage he says it needs rebuilt with no in and out play but with some side to side.

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[JusMX141]

but unless you are talking about mechanical timing, i don't think its that.

I don't think it's that either- base timing is fixed on all 2G's.

That and base timing doesn't change from pull to pull, which to me seems like a knock issue causing your timing loss...whether it be phantom knock or legit.

Other than the late spool I have no complaints when it gets into boost, it pull hard. The main issue I having is brake boosting, its taking way too long to get up on the converter and I have a 10" Sinister max stall. So its something that normal I'm probably gonna switch set-ups and I was thinking holset. If I do should I sell the manifold and go with a bolt on housing or keep it and get a open t3 housing? also which holset would probably be best. I'm looking for mid 10 second times with fast enough spool to be able to get up on the converter with out nitrous.
Thanks

If you're dead-set on a Holset, then I'd say the HX40 is going to be required to meet your goal. There are some guys like Matt (Peepers) who have gone mid 10's on a true twin-scroll HX35, so we know the turbo itself is capable- but using any of the single-scroll HX35 housing options that flow well enough is going to be just as laggy as a DSM bolt-on HX40 setup.

You can also see if PTE can service your current turbo- honestly the ball bearing 6152 with a .63 T3 turbine housing shouldn't spool all that bad- at least not as bad as you're stating. With a new turbine wheel I'd expect full boost to be in the realm of 4500, which is about the same as I'd expect from a HX40.

Can you identify it? he says its a pte 20g.

But I found a local turbo that doesn't seem to bad apart from the wheel damage he says it needs rebuilt with no in and out play but with some side to side.

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PTE doesn't make 20G's or any other MHI turbo. Everything they build is essentially Garrett-based.

That's a T04E50 compressor with some pretty heavy damage, and it's either paired to a T327 or T31 turbine....so this is either a SCM5027E or SCM5031E.

If it's priced higher than $100, it's too much. The cost of the replacement wheel, rebalance, and rebuild will likely be in excess of $350.

 

[rlacasse1]

This is just a question out of curiosity. How well do you think a twin scroll HX-40 would do on a 3.0 or 3.5 engine? I'd imagine spool would be fairly quick, but what about the top end, would it run out of steam and become a restriction?

 

[JusMX141]

What spec of housing- T3, T4? 16, 17, 18, 19, 22cm, or even machining a 12 or 14cm HX35 housing to work?

With all of the housing options available as well as your desired boost level, it's virtually impossible to over-restrict or cause too much lag.

 

[rlacasse1]

In all honesty. I don't have a damn clue. I don't know the turbos specs like the back of my hand like some do.

Just saying if someone wanted to build a vr4 with a 3.0 or 3.5 in the 600ish hp range, do you think an HX-40 would be a good turbo for that. Just to have a fun street car. And if so, what housing?

 

[JusMX141]

Well I guess that depends on how you plan on plumbing the piping to convert a twin-turbo car with one single-scroll turbo on each bank to a single twin-scroll turbo. I'm not sure if you can get away with running one bank of cylinders into each scroll or not based on exhaust flow and firing order.

I see on the factory Cummins twin-scroll manifolds they just run cylinders 1/2/3 into one scroll and 4/5/6 into another.

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