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Questions for Justin...

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So this question may be a little out of the ordinary, but I was hoping maybe you had some input on this.

Question: I'm building a mechanical system to actuate the vanes on a Holset HE351vgt I picked up. From my understanding, this turbo will largely decrease spool time while still performing like a larger turbo, given vane position is actuated correctly. I want to actuate vane position based largely on boost pressure, as well as RPM and TPS (more specifically WOT) signals all combined. The problem is, idk at what boost pressure and RPM would be a good start point? Is this pretty much going to be a guess and check thing, or can you take a stab at what I'm getting at. Or, is this a shitty idea all together? And, if this is a shitty idea all together, what are your suggestions on what signals to use to best actuate the vanes with a mechanical system? This system could be made using a vacuum wastegate actuator, a few Hobbs pressure switches and TPS and RPM trigger switches. I'm just looking for a simple mechanical solution for vane actuation, and the best signal to base the actuation off of.

I have been doing a lot of research on how the control system works. The problem is, Most of the info I am finding is for VGT operation on diesel engines. The way they were designed to work on the Diesel engines they are equip on, and they way they work for us have some differences from what I'm reading. For example, incorrect vane position on a diesel engine could mess up fuel economy and emissions control, where as on our smaller displacement gas engines this isn't really an issue. The diesel engines also use the vane position as a way to limit boost, where we would still have to run external wastegates. These are just a few examples of what the differences are between engines. I know the basics, and also know that not only does optimal vane position vary by each particular setup, but there are many factors that determine the optimal vane position for a given time. I'm not looking for a lesson in how VGT turbos work, but more of a simple breakdown on what largest factors that contribute to optimal vane position on OUR small 4cyl engine are, and how they can be figured out. From my understanding, the largest benefit to running a VGT turbo on our engines is a quick spool up time. If that's the case, couldn't you just make a simple mechanical system that uses boost as a signal to determine when the vanes start to open? You could also incorporate a RPM and TPS signal into this to further fine tune when the vanes open, but it would still be pretty simple. I appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks in advance.
Well the OEM applications factor a ton of variables when controlling the vanes- boost level, engine load, throttle position, turbo shaft speed....it's basically a turbo controlled by an ECM. That being said, converting one to a manual control may be possible, but it can't factor in everything that the factory control box would. The results could be that you'd end up with a turbo that is three times as heavy and just as laggy as, say, a HX40.

Here's a guy that did it the mechanical route, as well as his results:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/323774-holset-he351-vgt-goin-my-car.html

is it a ball bearing or journal bearing turbo? and how much would it cost to rebuild?
Journal- rebuild pricing would have to be discussed via PM.

What size socket is the damm coolant lines on MHI turbo's? I'm sick of not having all the sockets I need.
22mm or 7/8"
 
Justin i bought a T4 HX40 and i want to change the Turbine housing to a T3 since my setup is t3.Which T3 housing would you recommend for 500-600 whp goal?
 
I think the .70 BEP is the one.But what about one of the O.E. 16cm2? Should that get me to the whp goal?
 
I think the .70 BEP is the one.But what about one of the O.E. 16cm2? Should that get me to the whp goal?
Perhaps, but with a ton of unnecessary lag.

Using the cm2 to a/r conversion formula:

((cm2x8)-7)/100 = a/r

The 16cm2 housing is roughly 1.21 a/r.

Some shitty turbo porn for your hard work Justin.
Wouldn't it be more porn-y if you weren't wearing shorts? :p
 
Hey justin i bought this rebuilt pte6152 and it came with that restrictor thing on the oil feed hole.

How do i know which feed line will fit -3an or 4?

I am feeding from the OFH and Balance shafts removed on fresh stock 6bolt rebuild.

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The DSM bolt-on housings are only available in stainless to my knowledge, unless you were to rewind 4 years or so. The T3 Bullseye housings, on the other hand, are cast iron. Stainless doesn't crack too easily, but it does like to eat bolts....so Nickel Anti-seize is mandatory. I also strongly recommend reading DSM Graveyard's reviews before choosing to do business with them.


I have no gauge preference- though I've used Autometer for many years.


Justin, I wanted to continue this questioning LOL, I was more interested in a T3 setup, so does that mean Ill have no choice but the cast iron housings?

Also, I have been searching for a good manifold, and I think I may have found a decent one(ERL is an ouchie on the wallet)

T3/T4 TURBO MANIFOLD FOR ECLIPSE/TALON - Punishment Racing

I wasnt too comfortable with a tubular manifold since i hear they crack, but I figured along with bracing the turbo I should be ok. Would this be a suitable manifold?
 
Justin, what do you think of the open t3 .63ar with an hx40, on a built 2.3 stroker? Currently I am running the stock 16cm twin scroll housing, and would like to improve my spool.
 
Hey justin i bought this rebuilt pte6152 and it came with that restrictor thing on the oil feed hole.

How do i know which feed line will fit -3an or 4?

I am feeding from the OFH and Balance shafts removed on fresh stock 6bolt rebuild.
That's a -4AN fitting, so if it's indeed restricted then just go straight to the filter housing. If your engine has yet to be started, I highly recommend some type of inline filter....and check the filter often during the initial break-in period.


Justin, I wanted to continue this questioning LOL, I was more interested in a T3 setup, so does that mean Ill have no choice but the cast iron housings?
Not with Bullseye, no.
Also, I have been searching for a good manifold, and I think I may have found a decent one(ERL is an ouchie on the wallet)

T3/T4 TURBO MANIFOLD FOR ECLIPSE/TALON - Punishment Racing

I wasnt too comfortable with a tubular manifold since i hear they crack, but I figured along with bracing the turbo I should be ok. Would this be a suitable manifold?
I don't have any experience- we've only used the ERL (Myself, Dave, Ricky).

From prior experience with any tubular manifold- they all crack. Finding one that is built well with a decent warranty is your best bet, but the bracing isn't what does it- it's the constant hot / cold cycling from daily driving.
Justin, what do you think of the open t3 .63ar with an hx40, on a built 2.3 stroker? Currently I am running the stock 16cm twin scroll housing, and would like to improve my spool.
No input there, I don't really have any hard facts from anyone running such a setup. If anything I'd opt for the .82. Anything'd going to spool quicker than the giant 16cm housing you're using now, and the .63 may be a little restrictive for a stroker depending on boost level.
 
Happen to know where I could find one? Only thing I could find bigger than the .63 is .70 from bullseye power.
 
Justin i received my Hx40 today and open it to get it clean and throw some silver paint(Compressor housing was painted mint green:ohdamn:) and took my caliper and i think it measures more than 60mm on the inducer.I take some pics,please confirm me if this is possible you told me biggest compresssor wheel they came was with the 60mm.Also i already bought the BEP .70 T3 housing and i have the factory holset 17cm2 T4 housing laying around,do you know how much i can ask if i want to sell it?

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I think i was reading the caliper wrong,the other way it measures: 58 on the inducer
 

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Maybe I'm not understanding how that measuring device works, but I appear to be looking at a 60mm/83mm 8-blade compressor.

17cm T4 housings are worth whatever someone wants to pay. They're not in high demand, so don't expect to get a bunch of money out of it. ;)
 
Is there a certain break in period for journal bearing turbos?

The reason i ask is because when i rebuilt my 14b, i polished the shaft and touched up the bearings a little. Put a few miles on the turbo, it feels nice and tight but doesn't seem to spin as easily as it did before i took it apart. Is that normal? Thank you
 
Justin,

Recently I purchased a Tial 50mm BOV, it is the one that is old school and no longer in production.

TiAL Sport.com


I was curious as to the spring tension, it is extremely hard to depress the valve inside even with using both thumbs. So I figured the spring inside must be quite stiff, I am still learning about the actual spring tension purposes, but will I run into any issues while using a BOV with a spring that stiff?
 
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