Questions for Justin...

[JusMX141]

Any one for a T3 Garrett with a 360* thrust plate.

 

[eclipsemf]

Any one for a T3 Garrett with a 360* thrust plate.

Thank you kind sir!

 

[atownturbo]

Hey Justin I picked up this big h1c for 130. 8/12 blade 54mm/83mm compressor. There is no shaft play and the wheels look good to my eyes, but I had a couple questions. First off there seems to be some chips along the bottom of the wheel, but they look like their supposed to be there.

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Second I can't get this dang hotside off. It's the massive 21cm* one I've put coke, viniger, wd40, pb blaster around the ring to eat away at the rust. I've given it some love taps with the dead blow hammer but it still won't budge. How do you suggest I get this off? Should I try heating it up? Dunking it in some sort of solvent? This brings me to my final questions. I will be rebuilding this turbo and wanted to know if I need to mark it for balancing purposes? Also what is the best way to clean all the components? I have a parts washer and media blaster cabinet but unsure of which solvents and media work best.
Thanks.

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[JusMX141]

Heat, PB Blaster, giant hammers- I've used it all to remove stubborn housings. Just don't over-do it and bend the turbine....take a hit, try to spin it. Repeat. If it binds, find where it's binding and hit it in the other direction.

This series of H1 has a 6-point hex on the compressor locknut- it's already marked for alignment. If you cannot see these marks, re-mark it on your own. Do not stray from the factory balance tolerance on this turbo.

 

[atownturbo]

Ok sweet. What would you recommend for cleaning purposes? I've got some 80 grit glass bead media and walnut shell laying around. Can all these parts go in the blasting cabinet?

 

[JusMX141]

I wouldn't media-blast the center housing unless you need to. Anything else can be cleaned up using something light enough not to damage aluminum and coarse enough to remove oil coking and carbon.

 

[Bud92gsx]

I got a call the other day.The dsmer had bov flutter after installing hard piping.Why did this happen?

 

[Leonthefaded]

I got a call the other day.The dsmer had bov flutter after installing hard piping.Why did this happen?

I had bov flutter. I had to adjust my greddy type s bov and remove the softer spring. I'm using a t25 turbo

 

[JusMX141]

I got a call the other day.The dsmer had bov flutter after installing hard piping.Why did this happen?

I don't know, I wasn't there.

The new piping fixed boost leaks, perhaps- raising the boost pressure. Otherwise something may have been improperly installed...a buddy of mine forgot to hook up the signal line to the top of his valve one night after doing a motor mount install really late. After driving around for two weeks without the BOV working at all, he nearly surged the turbo to death.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Yeah that's exactly what I told him.Almost the exact words actually.

His bov is vented, so no compressor damage.I even had him hold the phone up to the window while driving. Whoally crap it was loud,and sure enough he wasn't lying when he said it was fluttering.

He said boost was about the same,but I think he's on stock gauge,i'm not sure.

But being vented,the turbo will be fine.Just kinda strange that hard piping would cause flutter.Bov is not crushed,I asked.

 

[Purple_Demon]

Justin,

I am in the process of purchasing a BEP bolt on housing for the hx35 that I purchased from you(too poor to afford a proper divided mani setup).

I see that DSM graveyard offers full stainless steel housings instead of cast iron, would this be a good option for a new turbine housing? I have particular concerns about the heat doing possible damage to the Stainless housing.


ALSO

Im in the market for gauges, do you suggest a particular brand?

 

[JusMX141]

The DSM bolt-on housings are only available in stainless to my knowledge, unless you were to rewind 4 years or so. The T3 Bullseye housings, on the other hand, are cast iron. Stainless doesn't crack too easily, but it does like to eat bolts....so Nickel Anti-seize is mandatory. I also strongly recommend reading DSM Graveyard's reviews before choosing to do business with them.


I have no gauge preference- though I've used Autometer for many years.

 

[Purple_Demon]

.....Ouch


Noted on the DSM graveyard portion.

 

[cl1ckclack]

Hey justin, i was just hoping you could help identify what model exactly of turbo i have, and an estimated cost on how much it would cost to rebuild both the hot and cold side?

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More pictures can be taken at any point if they would help.

 

[JusMX141]

Plain old Garrett T04E50. Probably a .63 a/r T3 turbine housing- about as common as it gets.

 

[Fast-Orange]

I read over the first 11 pages and have searched but i just wanted some clarification. I have an stm oil feed kit
EXTREME PSI 95-99 DSM 16G INSTALL KIT
currently run to my B16g from the OFH and want to swap it to my head. I already have the banjo fitting at the turbo now basically i just want to make sure i need a 10mm -4an male banjo clamp and a 10x1.25mm bolt for the head and for length 20 or 25mm for the bolt. Also would you happen to know what size plug id need to block the OFH feed port.

Thanks greatly.

 

[JusMX141]

Any specific reason you want to do this? It would be much cheaper and easier to just add a restrictor to your current oil line.

 

[Fast-Orange]

Do they not already have an oil restrictor at the OFH and its still way to much pressure. Ive heard there was a restrictor in the 16g as well but ive also read a post u wrote saying there is not. Cost wise there isnt really any difference banjo clamp & bolt vs restrictor and probably an adaptor its just moving the line. Id keep it at the OFH if i can find the proper restrictor, what did you have in mind.

 

[JusMX141]

There is no restrictor in the turbo or the filter housing. You'd need a restrictor of around .070".

 

[Fast-Orange]

Yea i was thinking around the .075 range so i was close. Im going to check my pressure at the line and double check that the banjo fitting isnt a restrictor itself. Im sure the oil pressure is to high with the symptoms i have regardless ill check it anyways. Did the t-25 have a restrictor at the line that was removed?

Thanks

 

[JusMX141]

All T25's are restricted at the filter housing, yes.

 

[Fast-Orange]

Alright thats the clarification i was looking for now everything makes more sense.
Thanks again.

 

[GST with PSI]

So this question may be a little out of the ordinary, but I was hoping maybe you had some input on this.

Question: I'm building a mechanical system to actuate the vanes on a Holset HE351vgt I picked up. From my understanding, this turbo will largely decrease spool time while still performing like a larger turbo, given vane position is actuated correctly. I want to actuate vane position based largely on boost pressure, as well as RPM and TPS (more specifically WOT) signals all combined. The problem is, idk at what boost pressure and RPM would be a good start point? Is this pretty much going to be a guess and check thing, or can you take a stab at what I'm getting at. Or, is this a shitty idea all together? And, if this is a shitty idea all together, what are your suggestions on what signals to use to best actuate the vanes with a mechanical system? This system could be made using a vacuum wastegate actuator, a few Hobbs pressure switches and TPS and RPM trigger switches. I'm just looking for a simple mechanical solution for vane actuation, and the best signal to base the actuation off of.

I have been doing a lot of research on how the control system works. The problem is, Most of the info I am finding is for VGT operation on diesel engines. The way they were designed to work on the Diesel engines they are equip on, and they way they work for us have some differences from what I'm reading. For example, incorrect vane position on a diesel engine could mess up fuel economy and emissions control, where as on our smaller displacement gas engines this isn't really an issue. The diesel engines also use the vane position as a way to limit boost, where we would still have to run external wastegates. These are just a few examples of what the differences are between engines. I know the basics, and also know that not only does optimal vane position vary by each particular setup, but there are many factors that determine the optimal vane position for a given time. I'm not looking for a lesson in how VGT turbos work, but more of a simple breakdown on what largest factors that contribute to optimal vane position on OUR small 4cyl engine are, and how they can be figured out. From my understanding, the largest benefit to running a VGT turbo on our engines is a quick spool up time. If that's the case, couldn't you just make a simple mechanical system that uses boost as a signal to determine when the vanes start to open? You could also incorporate a RPM and TPS signal into this to further fine tune when the vanes open, but it would still be pretty simple. I appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks in advance.

 

[cl1ckclack]

Plain old Garrett T04E50. Probably a .63 a/r T3 turbine housing- about as common as it gets.

is it a ball bearing or journal bearing turbo? and how much would it cost to rebuild?

 

[H@xtGSX]

So this question may be a little out of the ordinary, but I was hoping maybe you had some input on this.

Question: I'm building a mechanical system to actuate the vanes on a Holset HE351vgt I picked up. From my understanding, this turbo will largely decrease spool time while still performing like a larger turbo, given vane position is actuated correctly. I want to actuate vane position based largely on boost pressure, as well as RPM and TPS (more specifically WOT) signals all combined. The problem is, idk at what boost pressure and RPM would be a good start point? Is this pretty much going to be a guess and check thing, or can you take a stab at what I'm getting at. Or, is this a shitty idea all together? And, if this is a shitty idea all together, what are your suggestions on what signals to use to best actuate the vanes with a mechanical system? This system could be made using a vacuum wastegate actuator, a few Hobbs pressure switches and TPS and RPM trigger switches. I'm just looking for a simple mechanical solution for vane actuation, and the best signal to base the actuation off of.

I have been doing a lot of research on how the control system works. The problem is, Most of the info I am finding is for VGT operation on diesel engines. The way they were designed to work on the Diesel engines they are equip on, and they way they work for us have some differences from what I'm reading. For example, incorrect vane position on a diesel engine could mess up fuel economy and emissions control, where as on our smaller displacement gas engines this isn't really an issue. The diesel engines also use the vane position as a way to limit boost, where we would still have to run external wastegates. These are just a few examples of what the differences are between engines. I know the basics, and also know that not only does optimal vane position vary by each particular setup, but there are many factors that determine the optimal vane position for a given time. I'm not looking for a lesson in how VGT turbos work, but more of a simple breakdown on what largest factors that contribute to optimal vane position on OUR small 4cyl engine are, and how they can be figured out. From my understanding, the largest benefit to running a VGT turbo on our engines is a quick spool up time. If that's the case, couldn't you just make a simple mechanical system that uses boost as a signal to determine when the vanes start to open? You could also incorporate a RPM and TPS signal into this to further fine tune when the vanes open, but it would still be pretty simple. I appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks in advance.

Turbo Talk - View topic - 95 TSI AWD HE351VE VGT Holset Build

It has been tried. I am not sure how far they got with the precise controls, but I have seen videos of people using mechanical stops to optimize the idle and WOT response.