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Questions for Justin...

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Hey Justin!
Whats the recommended oil pressure for a 14B? Sorry to ask but i have a turbo Raptor 700 atv running on a 14B but the thing has eaten 2 14B in the last 3 month.I currently have the feed from the oil filter and had the water lines eliminated.They all go on the bronze bearings and i think it might be oil related.
 
Justin,I need your personal opinion on the H1C off an intercooler trucks,Are they can be compared to HX35? I'm asking because i found an awesome deal on one but i need to know if its worth the money and efforth to run it.
 
My friend I KNOW about the holset mega thread,Just want your personal opinion on the Turbo thats it.
 
I ask because they are different variations,The one im gonna buy have a 21cm turbine housing,It should be laggy right?
 
Yeah don't even think of using the factory 21cm housing on a 2.0 gasoline engine. That housing is designed to limit boost on a high-compression 5.9L diesel to around 18psi with a very slow response at that....you may never make boost at all with that housing on a relatively low-compression 2.0L unless you had the ability to rev to 15K. LOL
 
Hey Justin!
Whats the recommended oil pressure for a 14B? Sorry to ask but i have a turbo Raptor 700 atv running on a 14B but the thing has eaten 2 14B in the last 3 month.I currently have the feed from the oil filter and had the water lines eliminated.They all go on the bronze bearings and i think it might be oil related.

If it's not an oil issue, you might be blowing those turbos because your running them on a 700cc single cylinder engine. I have a feeling that's like hitting the stutterbox constantly anytime you're in boost. How long is the exhaust runner between the head and turbo? BTW that sounds like a fun quad!
 
Yep,We we're thinking that it might be the 2step we use to build boost on launch.There's like 8-10 inches from the head to the flange.
 
I've done a search without much info on this. Wondering if it would be worth picking up for a 2.3 AWD 5spd car, looking at 500+whp and spool by 4,000ish.



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Probably not a wise choice. The compressor design as well as the large turbine housing and lack of a wastegate tells me this turbo was designed for a slow-spooling low-boost diesel engine. Probably not your best performer for a performance 4-cylinder.
 
Justin does all 8 blades hx35 turbos has the 56mm inducers? And the 7 blades 54mm right?

Ignoring spooling time,whp wise which is better 8 or 7 blades?
 
The wastegate hole on the turbo is wider than the hole on the 02, will this cause some kind of restriction? I see no way of porting the 02 without risking getting shavings in the wastegate. I don't want to remove it due to the trouble of getting it back on. You've been a big help, thanks bro.:thumb:
 

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The biggest restriction will be the actual size of the wastegate hole in the turbine housing....all flow exiting the wastegate will first need to pass through that before anything else. However, even the stock wastegate hole seems to work well with an internal gate...and the hole in your housing has been opened up drastically over stock.

Bottom line- the size of the hole if your o2 housing flange isn't going to hold you back one bit. :thumb:
 
justin looking for 30+ psi out of my hx40 setup what bov would be a good choice that isnt going to have issues staying sealed
 
Dodge Garage-Modded 1G valve, or a TiAL are all I've had experience with at that boost level. A good local friend of mine is using a Forge, and I believe Ricky has run a Greddy Type S successfully in the past as well, although those options all come with a higher price tag than a modded 1G valve.

It's about personal preference, honestly- as long as it holds, you're not going to surge a HX40 between shifts from the BOV not being large enough...that's what the surge protection feature is for. ;)
 
Hello again,

Thanks again for your responses the other day about the rebuild kit. I've ordered the kit and its on the way.

Had another question for you though. I took apart the turbo to start cleaning it and take a peek at the wheels. I found the turbine wheel to be excellent no dings dents or bends.

BUT my compressor wheel appears to of chewed itself slightly on the compressor housing from the in/out movement. I'll be ordering a new compressor wheel to replace it.

Question is, the nut that holds the compressor wheel on is shaved on a side of it, the head of the bolt on the turbine side is shaved as well, (assuming for balancing?) when I replace the compressor wheel should I use a new nut or reuse the nut that's been shaved?

Being shaved does that mean I need to have the whole assembly balanced?

Or should I pick up a good condition turbine/shaft that's unground and purchase a new compressor wheel? It's all for a big 16g.

Bit confused from my reading. From what I am understanding that if the nut is intact no balancing is required for a new mhi wheel. But if it is ground that the whole assembly needs to be rebalanced?

Rebuilding because the turbo had in/out movement and had absolutely NO side to side of any kind.

Also P.S.

Would this wheel be the right size? Mitsubishi TD05 TD05H EVO3 16G Turbocharger Compressor Wheel did the conversion and found if to be 48mm by 68mm.
 
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