Questions for Justin...

[Fehrion_sit]

I don't even consider the T25 a DSM turbo as it has no place being on a DSM. It's horribly undersized, it's not made by Mitsubishi, and it's 1/3rd as durable as the 14B it replaced. If you dare run a T25 at boost levels in excess of stock, the thrust plate is going to explode on you in a very short time.

To further prove my point- the 68HTA uses the exact same center housing design and internals as a 14B, and there are plenty of 68HTA owners making big power which any turbo based off the T25's center housing design could never achieve.

As long as the installer pays attention and routes the lines properly instead of letting a ton of loose ends in the engine bay, a TD05H-based turbo can be made to look like it came from the factory under the hood of a 2G.

what kind of loose ends are you referring to?

 

[hurricanecris24]

Hey justin, I wanna turbo my dd 2g 4g64 sohc which turbo 17c 8cm housing or hahn 16g 10cm housing can get both for same price? The most I wanna boost is around 20psi and make at least 300whp so which one do you think will be more efficient for what I'm looking for. And how does the 17c wheel compare to the 16g wheels, I've read there better for low boost applications.

 

[JusMX141]

Hahn 16G will be TD05H, the 17C will be TD06. The 17C is designed for low boost, high-displacement engines....so go with the 16G.

Actually if you don't mind a little additional lag, go with the Hahn 20G. More power at less boost than the 16G and it will still outspool the 17C because the Hahn 20G also uses a TD05H turbine.

 

[RedTsi_PR]

Justin i came across an older non mwe 50mm inducer H1C for very cheap and the thing is i think is more bigger than my hybrid .60/.63 and i really want to give her a try but it had the humongous 18.5cm turbine housing on it and i think is gonna be too laggy.Also i read that those big housing aren't meant for high boost,so my question is can i put a 12cm HX35 or a big H1C turbine housing on it? I know that the turbo isn't that good but for the price i got it i want to boost the sh!t out of it.

Here's a couple of pics

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[JusMX141]

Any HX35 housing will fit.

 

[RedTsi_PR]

Thanks Jus!
Also i was thinking,what if i found a Big H1C (54mm inducer) Compressor cover and wheel can i swap them over?

 

[JusMX141]

Any H1C/E housing and cover will fit as they all share the same 83mm exducer. You'll need to get the rotating assembly rebalanced if you swap wheels- that turbo has the old 6-point hex locknut so it was balanced as an assembly.

 

[RedTsi_PR]

Justin thanks as always.By any chance do you have that nut? the only thing turbo is missing is the shaft nut.

 

[JusMX141]

None I'd be able to part with, sorry.

 

[hurricanecris24]

Hey justin do you think the erl exhaust manifold is the best cast manifold in the market for our cars? Or are there other better options. I just want the most durable manifold for dd and of course good fitment.

 

[JusMX141]

It's stainless, has a lifetime warranty, and allows more block clearance than any other cast T3 manifold on the market...so I'd say it's a pretty safe bet.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

hey I have a,t25 that I can't get to boost past,10psi. have tried every way possible to get it to boost more,but it just won't. I can turn boost down but not up. mbc works I know as it will turn boost down. tried two mbcs one off of my brothers,lebaron. it was set to 15psi on his car but only hit nine on mine.

turbo seals are,bad I think as the longer my car idles,the more it starts to smoke but after driving for 10 min then stopping it doesn't smoke till it sits for,a bit. last time I checked there wasn't too much play in it. hasn't hit cover either. boosts fine just only to ten.

gauge is aftermarket digital dragon gauge.

 

[AQuinonez90]

So i have this turbo that i got borrowed from a friend. It has a bullseye to4 compressor cover, the one with an arrow going around the cover and it is on a garrett 60 trim. I dont have the turbo with me but from the serial numbers i checked it was from a dt466e navistar engine. Is there a rebuild kit for these turbos??

 

[JusMX141]

hey I have a,t25 that I can't get to boost past,10psi. have tried every way possible to get it to boost more,but it just won't. I can turn boost down but not up. mbc works I know as it will turn boost down. tried two mbcs one off of my brothers,lebaron. it was set to 15psi on his car but only hit nine on mine.

turbo seals are,bad I think as the longer my car idles,the more it starts to smoke but after driving for 10 min then stopping it doesn't smoke till it sits for,a bit. last time I checked there wasn't too much play in it. hasn't hit cover either. boosts fine just only to ten.

gauge is aftermarket digital dragon gauge.

Wastegate isn't working properly or something internal isn't permitting the turbo to generate boost. There's really nothing else it can be.

The only thing you can try at this point is to rip the vacuum line off the actuator entirely and do a light pull to see if boost goes over 10psi....if it does, then you have a boost controller or actuator issue. If it doesn't, you have a turbo issue. Don't stay in the throttle long doing this as the turbo will be able to make as much boost as it can without a wastegate.

So i have this turbo that i got borrowed from a friend. It has a bullseye to4 compressor cover, the one with an arrow going around the cover and it is on a garrett 60 trim. I dont have the turbo with me but from the serial numbers i checked it was from a dt466e navistar engine. Is there a rebuild kit for these turbos??

I can't even begin to tell you what parts kit you may need without photos.

 

[H@xtGSX]

I got one for you Justin... I have a bigass RV bus with a ISB Cummins and one of the Banks quickspool turbines on it that I have been asked to sell. I have the old turbo parts too, and I believe this is an 8 blade 35. It looks like the Banks housing has an odd shaped volute which is real wide right down to the nozzle, but tightens down to Bulleye housing size at the wheel. Have you ever heard of anyone using a Banks unit on a DSM? It looks big, but not much bigger than the 10cm hotside I have the my garage right now... 12cm maybe?

 

[JusMX141]

Well 12cm twin-scroll is the same spec as the factory HX35 housing....any pics?

 

[H@xtGSX]

Only from the outside, which probably aren't going to be any help. I did some research and it sounds to me like the "Quickspool" Banks turbine is anything but quick. It's a larger 14cm twin scroll with a funny shape to it. I can't really see how a larger turbine housing is quicker spooling, but that's what Banks claims. If I have a chance to crawl in there and remove it, I will. I had never heard of it though, so I figured I'd ask in case maybe you had seen one before.

 

[JusMX141]

Nah, never heard of it. Must have been introduced back when the H1C's still had 21cm housings, which would definitely make it quicker-spooling. Aside from that, it's physically impossible for a housing with a larger cross section measurement to spool quicker than a housing with a smaller spec. Flow, yes...spool, no.

 

[H@xtGSX]

Yea, that's what I was guessing. This is a Greyhound bus size RV, so I would assume it had something big, like a 21cm housing. If that is the case, then yes, it would be faster spooling... But it is still a bus. The other parts the owner has aren't from this turbo, as he he thought, though. I have no idea where they came from. Looks like stuff off a Catapillar tractor.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Wastegate isn't working properly or something internal isn't permitting the turbo to generate boost. There's really nothing else it can be.

The only thing you can try at this point is to rip the vacuum line off the actuator entirely and do a light pull to see if boost goes over 10psi....if it does, then you have a boost controller or actuator issue. If it doesn't, you have a turbo issue. Don't stay in the throttle long doing this as the turbo will be able to make as much boost as it can without a wastegate.


I can't even begin to tell you what parts kit you may need without photos.

I did that. like I said I tried everything. boost controller no controller manifold pressure to actuator. actuator left unhooked. never got over 10psi with no line,at,all to actuator. seals went out on the t25 so it needs rebuilding anyways.

though here again I just swapped in a 14b that the nipple for actuator is broke off. I don't have another actuator. stock bcs is routed one to j-pipe nipple & one to maf pipe. I am still only hitting ten pounds??

14b is good does not smoke and holds boost fine spools ok as well. coolant lines blocked off only oil going through it. why am I stuck at 10psi with two different turbos?

 

[Maximuscr31]

Boost leak

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Boost leak

intake gasket is,good, throttle body gasket is good. changed throttle bodies. all intake piping and couplers are good. new j-pipe gasket. new exhaust mani gasket and turbo gaskets.

it ran the same pressures with stock bcs setup which has the restrictor,removed as it did on wastegate pressure and,as it did with mbc installed two different ways. also used two different mbcs.

also I have no driveabilty issues usually associated with a boost leak. it holds steady boost. running low fifth gear its,hit 11 but will drop back to 10.

if it was a leak it wouldn't run the same pressure everytime with each different setup. I should have been able to at least go over ten at, sometime.

 

[Maximuscr31]

That is not true at all. Boost leak may not develop until 10psi and reseal at 9psi. It doesn't have to be obvious. I had one leak that was my bov nipple on my hks was loose. It wouldn't let my car boost over 8psi no matter what I done. Couldn't find anything obvious. Took it to my buddies house who had an air compressor, hooked up my boost leak tester, and found the hissing sound at anything over 8psi and was leaking alot of air. It would even shake then when boost hit 8psi during the boost leak test. With the throttle closed there was no leak on the test. So the only way to check is with a boost leak tester with the throttle opened and a pressure guage on the tester or a boost guage in the car. Test it for 3psi higher than you plan on running. If it falls fast you got a leak, if it doesn't hit deisred level you got a leak, and it should hold stead at first dropping around 1 psi every few seconds.Either the pressure is dropping due to a leak or there isn't enough exhaust gasses to spin the turbo faster. It can only be 1 of the 2. Either boost leak, exhaust leak, or faulty wastegate

I did that. like I said I tried everything. boost controller no controller manifold pressure to actuator. actuator left unhooked. never got over 10psi with no line,at,all to actuator. seals went out on the t25 so it needs rebuilding anyways.

though here again I just swapped in a 14b that the nipple for actuator is broke off. I don't have another actuator. stock bcs is routed one to j-pipe nipple & one to maf pipe. I am still only hitting ten pounds??

14b is good does not smoke and holds boost fine spools ok as well. coolant lines blocked off only oil going through it. why am I stuck at 10psi with two different turbos?

Just read how your vaccume lines are routed for you boost controller. That is totally wrong. It should never be routed to a non pressure source like the intake pipe. That would explain why your boost leak isn't causing dirvability issues since it is being recirculated.

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[Diamond Star Werks]

common thing I haven't changed or done anything that you just reminded me is my bov. it may be opening. its,stock 2g bov. ill try mounting it backwards and,see what I boost.

I had a mechanical gauge b4 the wreck and it would run 12-13 with it.

 

[Maximuscr31]

So you have no boost guage? How are you seeing your boost level? Also the 2g bov leaks like crazy. No doubt that it is a problem over 10psi. Mine actually exploded.You seriously need to have a boost guage, make a boost leak tester per the vfaq, and then pressure test the entire system. Boost leak test costs less than 10.00 to make plus you need a boost guage even if it is just a cheap prosport.