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Questions for Justin...

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I've got another one for ya.

Im having a hell of a time getting my 14b to spool up on the stall. Tried just about everything i can think of.

Im wondering if its possible that the turbo itself is causing these issues? The thing is though, the turbo appears to be in mint condition. The wheels are mint, no chips or visible damage. Zero shaft play in any direction. Free spins easily. Boosts fine off the brakes. See 17psi by 3500, holds it through shifts as well.

O and the waste gate is shimmed with two washers to have a slight pre load on flapper.
 
Are the TDO5HR and TDO5H rebuild kits the same? and.. Are the TDO4/TDO4L and TDO4LR rebuild kits the same?
All but the thrust plate. The oiling grooves around the thrust washer contact area face the opposite direction. Not using the proper thrust plate will result in almost immediate thrust failure.

I've got another one for ya.

Im having a hell of a time getting my 14b to spool up on the stall. Tried just about everything i can think of.

Im wondering if its possible that the turbo itself is causing these issues? The thing is though, the turbo appears to be in mint condition. The wheels are mint, no chips or visible damage. Zero shaft play in any direction. Free spins easily. Boosts fine off the brakes. See 17psi by 3500, holds it through shifts as well.

O and the waste gate is shimmed with two washers to have a slight pre load on flapper.
Have you ever had the turbo off the car enough to look at the area around the wastegate hole? Often on older 14B's the actuator lever sleeve will walk out of the housing (illustrated by the green arrow) and cause the flapper to move off-center to the wastegate hole. Over time the exhaust will continue to leak around the flapper, eroding the housing until there's no possible way it can seal anymore.

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Such an issue would allow the turbo to build boost much slower than a good-sealing flapper no matter how much tension is on the arm. Just something to check out!
 

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Mitsubishi dealer, or there are a handful of eBay vendors who sell the correct parts kits.

I ended up buying a handful of TD05HR thrust plates so I'll have the parts to service Evo IV-IX turbos because all of the other parts I've stocked for standard-rotation 05H turbos will work.
 
Obviously a wastegate malfunction- make sure your valve seat is in place.

Apparently not. I had the shop double-check the valve seat and also try another known good 44mm gate. They still can't get the turbo to make more than 8psi. They are pulling the turbo off the car to check the wheels. Any other ideas?
 
Holset H1E with bep housing or PTE5130e. Which will you prefer and why?

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
 
Apparently not. I had the shop double-check the valve seat and also try another known good 44mm gate. They still can't get the turbo to make more than 8psi. They are pulling the turbo off the car to check the wheels. Any other ideas?

Friction from lack of oil is one that Justin has said before can cause lower boost levels.

Another one from me: Is it common for the SRT4 turbos to have the compressor nut lossen up. I took a look at 2 srt4 turbos today, on both the nuts came loose. I took the turbos apart, the turbine shaft threads appeared stretched or that was normal. Have you ever seen this? I still got it to torque down with ease and i used loctite. My theory is that the right hand threaded nut is getting tightened when the car is boosting and causeing the nut to over tighten and stretch. What is happening here?
 
Friction from lack of oil is one that Justin has said before can cause lower boost levels.
Lack of oil will cause bearing damage which will result in shaft play. If there's no play and he's using the same oiling system that was used when the car made 450whp, obviously it shouldn't be oil-related.
Another one from me: Is it common for the SRT4 turbos to have the compressor nut lossen up. I took a look at 2 srt4 turbos today, on both the nuts came loose. I took the turbos apart, the turbine shaft threads appeared stretched or that was normal. Have you ever seen this? I still got it to torque down with ease and i used loctite. My theory is that the right hand threaded nut is getting tightened when the car is boosting and causeing the nut to over tighten and stretch. What is happening here?
If that theory were true, the left-hand threaded nuts on all 05H turbos would be doing the same thing. I've never seen evidence of this- the only nuts I've seen come loose were on older right-hand threaded 14B's which were pushed to extreme boost levels. The higher load on the compressor wheel causes the nut to loosen.
 
Lack of oil will cause bearing damage which will result in shaft play. If there's no play and he's using the same oiling system that was used when the car made 450whp, obviously it shouldn't be oil-related.
.

We both know the thrustbearing can catch anything. It would even catch a cookie crumb and cause oiling issues. But then i guess it would blow oil so i guess your right. LOL
 
MHI thrust plates and 270* Garrett plates catch even the tiniest metal particles which then begin to dam up even more tiny metal pieces in the oil until they've created a blockage large enough to cause a heart attack.

Garrett 360* plates with their fire hose oil ports tend to catch nothing. I've only seen Holset thrust plates catch metal in cases where the engine completely scattered- zero metal under normal operation.
 
Well.. crap. The shop pulled my HX40 off of the car and they can't find anything wrong. He said it looked like the compressor wheel might have made light contact with the housing at some point but nothing terrible. He also said there doesn't seem to be any abnormal shaft play and no blow-by but he couldn't get the car to make more than 8lbs of boost. This turbo probably has less than 1000 miles on it and I've been using the recommended large 10an drain setup and I'm feeding it from a ported 2g OFH. I'm out of ideas and the shop can't seem to explain whats wrong. Justin, If I ship this turbo to you can you check it out? I'd like to have someone with real firsthand knowledge of Holsets look this thing over and make sure everything is OK. Also, do you have any other HX40 compatible housings that bolt to a T4 flange? I'm using a Dark Performance T4 manifold and a Holset 19cm^2 housing but I think I could get maximum flow and a little better spool if I had a smaller housing(did Holset make a T4 flanged 16 or 17cm^2?). PM me with your address and pricing info if you're interested. Thanks
 
I could look at it, but if the turbo spins freely and there's not enough play for the wheels to contact the housings, there's no much I can do. Literally nothing else could be causing this except some type of pre-turbine exhaust leak or someone didn't get the wastegate flapper welded shut properly.

There's a 17cm T4 housing- I don't have any, however.
 
Justin, what's the best way to get the vband lip off the Holset compressor outlet so I can slip a silicone coupler on?
 
Power wise whats the better option gt35 or hx40? or are they completely different? with a goal of 600-700whp
 
Justin, what's the best way to get the vband lip off the Holset compressor outlet so I can slip a silicone coupler on?
Grind it / machine it.

Power wise whats the better option gt35 or hx40? or are they completely different? with a goal of 600-700whp
If you're talking about a regular old cast GT3582R, the HX40 generates around 5lb/min more and is $500 or so cheaper if both turbos are brand new.
 
I am seeing as much as 2300 hz of air flow (2g mas) on a clipped 05h 18g @ about 24 psi. Is there anything left? I come up with about 570 cfm, but the math to convert that to lbs per minuet is over my head. :confused:

I am thinking about getting a 20g wheel and surge ported housing, but unsure if i should stay with the 15* clip or go back to unclipped.
 
I am seeing as much as 2300 hz of air flow (2g mas) on a clipped 05h 18g @ about 24 psi. Is there anything left? I come up with about 570 cfm, but the math to convert that to lbs per minuet is over my head. :confused:
Dividing something by 14.27 is out of your league?

570 / 14.27 = 39.94394, so you're making around 40 lb/min. If that's the case then you don't have much left.
I am thinking about getting a 20g wheel and surge ported housing, but unsure if i should stay with the 15* clip or go back to unclipped.
I don't see the point in upgrading an 18G to a 20G unless the donor turbo has wheel damage. You'll stand to pick up about 2lb/min of peak airflow...the rest you'll never even notice. That's an expensive 20hp.
 
I could look at it, but if the turbo spins freely and there's not enough play for the wheels to contact the housings, there's no much I can do. Literally nothing else could be causing this except some type of pre-turbine exhaust leak or someone didn't get the wastegate flapper welded shut properly.

Justin,

The shop slapped another turbo (PTE 6265 w divided T4 1.25AR hotside) on my car and said the boost and torque numbers improved dramatically. Apparently my HX40 has a problem. If it's truly broken can you give me a ballpark what it might cost to repair? Please PM me with your address so I can ship this turbo to you for inspection.

Thanks,
Josh
 
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