Questions for Justin...

[forcefed86]

I've never had a HX35 on any of my cars, so I guess the answer would be no.

.63 is a Garrett-based housing spec. The next size up in Garrett's catalog is .82, so rightfully the .70 housing sold by BEP is already right in the middle-ground between spool and flow.

We know the .55 housing chokes the turbine and the .70 doesn't. I'd hate to be a guinea pig when the price is the same as the BEP housing that is already proven and has a v-band on the outlet.

I suppose, although the .70 boost threshold times aren't exactly anything to write home about. Esp. for us folks shifting at 6800-7k. If someone could gain a bit of spool time over the .70 and a bit of topend over the .55 I don't see what the draw back is. I'll probably try it out and report back. Thanks for the input.

 

[ontario AWD]

Justin,my s256 bite the dust and is smoking.There is no wheel to housing contact.Can i just scribe a line and reassemble this turbo without balancing?

 

[bastarddsm]

The housing I'd recommend based on other results I've seen is the factory 12cm twin-scroll, although if you don't have a true twin-scroll manifold you'll be disappointed with it's performance and will probably be better-off with a .70 T3 Bullseye housing.

But several cars have trapped 130+, myself included on an open t3 using the stock housing, and the highest I've seen on a bep .7a/r t3 hx35 was like 127 by dave.

I lost about 3lb/min going to a t/s from the open setup, and the spool increase wasn't that great.

 

[JusMX141]

Justin,my s256 bite the dust and is smoking.There is no wheel to housing contact.Can i just scribe a line and reassemble this turbo without balancing?

Sure- or you could assemble the turbo without regard to wheel alignment as Bullseye most likely did when they built it. I'm pretty sure that's a component-balanced turbo being that there are no balance marks on the compressor locknut; send a message to Bullseye if you're not sure.

If you're unsure, it's better to mark the wheels than it is to not mark them.

But several cars have trapped 130+, myself included on an open t3 using the stock housing, and the highest I've seen on a bep .7a/r t3 hx35 was like 127 by dave.

I lost about 3lb/min going to a t/s from the open setup, and the spool increase wasn't that great.

I'm not trying to start a debate of any sort- if true twin-scroll was really worse for flow and not beneficial to spool, you wouldn't see it on the Evo's.

If you want to see a HX35 trap 140 or so in the BEP T3 housing, stay tuned. Might not happen this year, but it will happen soon.

Dave's previous HX35 setup only trapped 121.52 back when his car had zero weight reduction and was still on pump gas at 30psi, a stock 6-bolt with major blowby, and the stock intake manifold. This was the setup that won B1 at the 2009 Shootout. Obviously plenty of room to grow on those numbers with his current build.

 

[bastarddsm]

I'm not trying to start a debate of any sort- if true twin-scroll was really worse for flow and not beneficial to spool, you wouldn't see it on the Evo's.

If you want to see a HX35 trap 140 or so in the BEP T3 housing, stay tuned. Might not happen this year, but it will happen soon.

Dave's previous HX35 setup only trapped 121.52 back when his car had zero weight reduction and was still on pump gas at 30psi, a stock 6-bolt with major blowby, and the stock intake manifold. This was the setup that won B1 at the 2009 Shootout. Obviously plenty of room to grow on those numbers with his current build.

I didn't say it wasn't beneficial for spool, I just said I havn't found it to be that great. I know peepers car spools very fast, but I have not seen/heard/experienced anything close to that. Granted, I run a 8 blade, and I havn't pulled timing down low to help it, but just switching manifolds, I got full boost, 30psi, about 600 rpm sooner, but I also lost a ton 3 lb/min of airflow. I also have what I think is a 20cm housing, and on the open t3 manifold, the spool and airflow was very similar with it, it spooled about 100rpm later, and only flowed less than 1lb/min more. I'm not trying to state that the t/s sucks. I'm just trying to state that the average guy isn't going the throw together a hx35 t/s setup, and get the same results as peepers. If they could, I'd think there would be more than one of em.

As far as the bep T3 housing, It does spool faster, but I think it chokes off early. Granted you can't compare cars, but I will anyway. I asked dave about the t3 housing, and his car trapped similar to mine, except I was running about 4psi less, and my car is 200lbs heavier.

I am beginning to think that the open t3 with a good set of cams and intake, may be the setup that makes the widest powerband.

I'd sure hope dave can get that "race prepped" car to trap 140 on a hx35, several "average" cars have gone very close to 140 already.

Anyway, I now have both an 8 and a 7 blade HX35, and a 12cm and a 20cm t/s housing for them, as well as an open and T3 T/S manifold. I am going to do some testing on them. I'm going to log RPM, Drive, Boost, and air flow. I actually have a "race pak" sort of setup we used on some pulling tractors, so I won't be relying on the stock ecu and shit to generate data. I'm planning on checking out all the combinations, and just see what we get. I'm going to run a evo8 maf, that way I won't have any ve maps to #### with, and the tun can basically stay the same between setups. If someone would send me a bep t3 housing I'd run that too. So, maybe we will finally see how it all works together. I might even get ambitious and try both a stock and a "hi rpm" intake on both of them.

 

[JusMX141]

I'd sure hope dave can get that "race prepped" car to trap 140 on a hx35, several "average" cars have gone very close to 140 already.

...all of which were using the 12cm twin-scroll housing; some not reporting full boost until near 5k which is worse than Dave's current HX40 setup. We'll be using the BEP .70 T3 housing to show that it can be done on that setup as well, hopefully proving it to be not much of a restriction.

This may be happening later this month if the weather cooperates- I have the turbo here, I just need to track down a good deal on a housing or borrow one.

 

[autotalon]

Is there a differece between the 13g and 14b turbine wheels? I ask bacause a friend wants to put a 14b turbine housing on a 13g turbo.

 

[T-mun]

Is there a differece between the 13g and 14b turbine wheels? I ask bacause a friend wants to put a 14b turbine housing on a 13g turbo.

Not compatible & should not be attempted, 13g is the TD04L / 04HL turbine variant while 14b is TD05H.. Very different center cartridge (will require customization) and the TD05H is a bigger wheel.

 

[JusMX141]

Is there a differece between the 13g and 14b turbine wheels? I ask bacause a friend wants to put a 14b turbine housing on a 13g turbo.

Won't even come close to fitting. Not only are the wheels a completely different spec, but the center housings (where the v-band connects) are totally different as well.

Not compatible & should not be attempted, 13g is the TD04L / 04HL turbine variant while 14b is TD05H.. Very different center cartridge (will require customization) and the TD05H is a bigger wheel.

I'm sorry, was this thread titled "Questions for T-mun?" No? That's what I thought.




Just kidding man, thanks for your input as well!

 

[4Lurker4]

Hey Justin,

What's the best rebuild kit for a RRE Big T28? I searched on here for a specific kit, just couldn't seem to find it. I see many kits for t25/t28 usually for Nissan, can I use those if all I need are the internals? Which one would you recommend? Thanks in advance!

 

[JusMX141]

Don't use any kit that is specifically for a Nissan- the journal bearings are too narrow. Must be for a Mitsu version of the T25.

Also, it's highly-recommended that you use a kit with a 360* thrust plate...but be careful where you buy it. I had a customer send me a T28 and they bought their 360* thrust kit from somewhere on eBay (one of the less-popular vendors) and the mounting holes for the screws were not even CLOSE to being in the right place...I had to completely re-drill the plate.

 

[4Lurker4]

Don't use any kit that is specifically for a Nissan- the journal bearings are too narrow. Must be for a Mitsu version of the T25.

Also, it's highly-recommended that you use a kit with a 360* thrust plate...but be careful where you buy it. I had a customer send me a T28 and they bought their 360* thrust kit from somewhere on eBay (one of the less-popular vendors) and the mounting holes for the screws were not even CLOSE to being in the right place...I had to completely re-drill the plate.

Good thing I didn't buy it yet, thanks for the heads up. Any chance you could recommend a specific vendor/seller for the kit that will have all the right parts? Would this one work: Turbocharger Rebuild Kit T2 T25 T28 TB02 TB25 TB28 360D Thrust Bearing Dynamic | eBay ?

 

[JusMX141]

^ That actually looks like the same thrust plate that was in the kit which I received with the customer's turbo. I made it work, but it took some creative massaging.

I don't really have a specific vendor for T25/T28 360* parts because I rebuild so few of those turbos.

 

[Ineedboostman]

Now that the batmowheel is out for the hx40 how much difference is there between it and the 7blade.

 

[JusMX141]

So far we have three track passes and zero dyno time on the BatMoWheel HX40, so .

 

[Ineedboostman]

Guess well just have to wait and see. I wouldn't want to switch from my 7 blade if there's not much notable difference.

 

[perks563]

Sorry if this has been covered already - I'm looking at getting some Brad Penn oil and I want to know what weight should I get for the winter? I live in western Mass. I've always used 10w-30 year round but want some advice.

Thanks again Justin!

 

[delta448]

This is the Turbo System Tech forum. Justin is the resident turbo expert here, that's why this thread exists, -for specific questions about turbos-. Yours is a Maintenance question.

Ironically, all I had to do to find this quoted post was type "oil weight" in the search box and click the Titles Only option. Granted, he was speaking of engine break-in specifically, but I think he inadvertently answered your current question.

Our cars do not have flat tappet camshafts, so you do not need to be using Brad Penn Break-In Oil. Honestly, there is more zinc content in the regular Brad Penn Racing Oil than is necessary for protection in our cars.

Buy the 10W30 Racing Oil and you'll be fine. My last three engine rebuilds were run during their initial break-in period (first 50 miles) using the cheapest SAE30 Non-Detergent I could find, then I ran a standard 10W30 Conventional dino oil until the 3k-mile mark, then resumed with Mobil 1.

You might also want to check out these pages:

Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible

- Bob is the Oil Guy

Jus, feel free to move or delete for cleanup.

 

[JusMX141]

^ Although, new discoveries are proving that Mobil 1 oils have been modified to meet the newest specs and do not contain the ZDDP that they did a few years ago, and as FP's findings have shown that performance turbos using a steel thrust plate will actually benefit from using a higher ZDDP formula oil. This may also give better shear protection on the crank's thrust system as well.

I don't believe Brad Penn Racing oil is available at any weight thinner than 10W30 at this time, although our rep at work has stated they have either just released or will be soon offering a 0W30 as well. I'd just run the 10W30 year-round as that's what Mitsubishi recommends unless your area is prone to extremely frigid winters.

 

[perks563]

Thank you both!

 

[91stocker]

Well i got one for you. Its not dsm related, but it is turbo related. The ko3 on my a4 is leaking oil between the housings. It seems to have about 5 or 6 bolts. I tightened them and it still dumps oil.

The turbo boosts fine and there is zero shaft play in any direction. Is there a separate seal between the housings that doesnt effect its performance that could be leaking? Or should i be looking for a replacement?

 

[JusMX141]

Are you talking about where the turbine housing joins the center housing, or is it leaking between the compressor cover and backplate? Either way, you really shouldn't be leaking oil right at the turbo like that unless it's coming from the oil supply or drain which makes it appear to be leaking from where the housings join.

Most K03's I've rebuilt in the past suffered from internal oil coking problems that were so severe the journal bearing sleeve and shaft literally seized and became one, so the turbo itself quit spinning; haven't really seen any that failed just based on a seal failure, but anything's possible. What that shows me is that VW seems to have their oiling figured out and the owners of those turbos which seized due to coking around the bearing sleeve just did too many hot shutdowns.

 

[91stocker]

Are you talking about where the turbine housing joins the center housing, or is it leaking between the compressor cover and backplate? Either way, you really shouldn't be leaking oil right at the turbo like that unless it's coming from the oil supply or drain which makes it appear to be leaking from where the housings join.

Yea sorry, where the exhaust housing bolts to the center. The bolts were loose, i tightened them and it made no difference. I replaced the oil return and gaskets thinking that was it. But it wasnt, theres a very steady drip where they bolt up.

I thought it was an odd place. Seems to be a few other audi guys that have had the same problem, but the audi forums are terrible and couldnt find much. The stealership seems to be the fix for most of those guys.

 

[JusMX141]

If you're getting oil where the turbine housing meets the center housing, that's a turbine seal leaking without a doubt. You should be seeing some smoke from the exhaust as well unless the catalytic converter on those cars works exceptionally well at displacing the smoke screen.

Probably fixable with a rebuild; eventually enough oil will burn behind the heat shield that it may push the shield outward causing it to rub the turbine wheel, possibly causing the turbo to lock up. This is common on high-mileage 14B's as well.

 

[91stocker]

If you're getting oil where the turbine housing meets the center housing, that's a turbine seal leaking without a doubt. You should be seeing some smoke from the exhaust as well unless the catalytic converter on those cars works exceptionally well at displacing the smoke screen.

Yea no smoke, but the cat is freaking huge and bolted directly to the turbo. Then a school bus size resonator and a muffler .