Questions for Justin...

[TSITurbo95]

Is a 10an drain ok for a 20g?

 

[JusMX141]

Is this thrust bearing setup worth it in your opinion or should i stick with stock?I will be sticking with this turbo for awhile and maxing it out at the strip.

I'd go 360* if possible to prevent any chance of wheel damage from in/out play. You may look at it as an expense now, but if your rotating assembly gets wiped out because you cheaped out on a thrust system you're going to be kicking yourself.

Is a -4 line off the OFH unrestriced to a BW S362 with a -12 drain ok to use?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152694424-post9.html

Is a 10an drain ok for a 20g?

Should be fine, but I'm a fan of OEM drain lines for MHI turbos. Zero chance of the drain kinking with an OEM line.

I wouldn't use anything smaller than a -10AN drain on any turbo, ever.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Justin, what can you tell me about the BW turbos that have the screw-in compressor wheels? I'm pretty sure I remember you saying something about them awhile ago but I don't remember specifically.

 

[ontario AWD]

Thanks Justin.Thats what i will do then.Car is going to sleep for the winter soon.

 

[hubz91talontsi]

Justin, i know the backing is different on the 14b/16g. My cousin has a 14b, and i have all the pieces to just swap in the 16g compressor wheel. Is it as easy as i just explained or does something else need to change because of the flat backing on the 14b?

 

[JusMX141]

Justin, what can you tell me about the BW turbos that have the screw-in compressor wheels? I'm pretty sure I remember you saying something about them awhile ago but I don't remember specifically.

Not familiar- perhaps you were talking to someone else? And what is your question / concern?

Justin, i know the backing is different on the 14b/16g. My cousin has a 14b, and i have all the pieces to just swap in the 16g compressor wheel. Is it as easy as i just explained or does something else need to change because of the flat backing on the 14b?

You need the steel plate that goes behind the compressor wheel as well as the compressor seal collar for a 16G, and you'll also need to have the center housing machined to accept the larger compressor.

 

[mattasi]

Hi Justin, I just did my 20g turbo rebuild, everything went well, but here is my concern. If I pour a little oil into the turbo center, and then set the turbo on its side with the exhaust wheel facing down and the compressor wheel facing up then a little oil leaks down and out of the exhaust side turbo seal.

Is this normal just after a rebuild because the seal has not fully seated from not spining on the car yet?

I heard the seal snap into place when assembled and everything spins nice.

 

[JusMX141]

It shouldn't run right out, but it will always leak a little oil past the seal if you do this. The seal is not 100% leakproof, hence the reason oil will push past the seals if you prevent the turbo from draining properly.

Also, never store a turbo with the turbine side down if the cartridge has recently been filled with oil....this is the reason why.

 

[mattasi]

Ok, thank you for clearing this up for me. I was worried there for a bit haha. Yea when I was putting it together I was looking at the seal wondering how the hell do these 100% seal, but now I know they don't 100% seal so they will leak if set turbine side down.
Great info thanks man.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

I know someone that got a S366 with a screw in compressor wheel and he doesn't know much about them.

 

[mattasi]

I know someone that got a S366 with a screw in compressor wheel and he doesn't know much about them.

I think that Justin is lookin for a question/concern, not a statement...

 

[JusMX141]

True. I don't see how the mounting of the compressor wheel itself could effect the performance or reliability. The older GT3251 and 3255's sold by PTE had compressors with the threads built into the wheel, and those turbos worked fine but had horrible thrust reliability....no fault of the compressor wheel.

 

[forcefed86]

Mocking up my HX 40 setup.

Will a 16cm t3 housing fit in the OEM location without hitting the block? IE T3 stock location manifold.

The 18cm I currently have hits the block a good 2" before the t3 inlet lines up with the center of the manifold flange.

 

[JusMX141]

Not possible. Both of those housings are so much larger than stock it's not even funny.

 

[hypergenesis]

Hey justin,

I currently have my stock t25 sitting at close to 160k miles. There is no in and out shaft play and very little side to side, honestly amazing for how many miles are on it. I started to get white/blue smoke coming from my exhaust whenever I Launch Control, or boost and then sit at idle. When actually driving I have not noticed any smoke only in these 2 situations.

Now I took of the air intake and intercooler piping and there was oil in both as well as a little bit of oil sitting right on my turbo inlet.

Along with this I tried driving without ever going into boost , always under 5 psi, and I never have an issue with the smoke coming at idle after only when I start getting near 10 psi and then idleing that it presents it self.

Now what I am wondering is are my turbo seals/gaskets going out thats whats causing the smoke under boost and during idle? Or is it the PCV system causing oil to get into my tract causing smoke to come from my exhaust? Or could it be something not related to either of these all together?

Thanks again
Armin

 

[JusMX141]

Sort-of a catch 22 here.

A bad PCV valve will cause more oil to appear in the intake which isn't necessarily the fault of the turbo. A bad PCV can also cause an over-pressurizing of the crankcase which effects the turbo's ability to drain.

At the same time, a faulty turbo can allow boost pressure to enter the crankcase...also over-pressurizing the crankcase.


The only way to rule out the PCV is to get yourself a proper catch can which doesn't allow oil to make it's way back into the intake system no matter how worn your engine may be. This rules out the PCV system entirely, and allows you to isolate the turbo as the cause of the smoke.

 

[TWOpointFORliter]

Hey Justin I'm getting ready to install my 7 blade hx35 you rebuilt for me and decided I want to go with a twin scroll setup. What options do I have as far as the turbine housing for the 7 blade hx35? I still have the stock housing that came with it but was hoping there was an external WG housing available and possibly vband outlet? I have a 2.4 with 9.0 CR and plan on pushing the turbo to it's limits. Also car is 95% street drivin so quick spool is a top priority for me. Please recommend me a housing and pm me if you have one available.

 

[hypergenesis]

Sort-of a catch 22 here.

A bad PCV valve will cause more oil to appear in the intake which isn't necessarily the fault of the turbo. A bad PCV can also cause an over-pressurizing of the crankcase which effects the turbo's ability to drain.

At the same time, a faulty turbo can allow boost pressure to enter the crankcase...also over-pressurizing the crankcase.


The only way to rule out the PCV is to get yourself a proper catch can which doesn't allow oil to make it's way back into the intake system no matter how worn your engine may be. This rules out the PCV system entirely, and allows you to isolate the turbo as the cause of the smoke.

OOO alright thanks for the information

 

[JusMX141]

Hey Justin I'm getting ready to install my 7 blade hx35 you rebuilt for me and decided I want to go with a twin scroll setup. What options do I have as far as the turbine housing for the 7 blade hx35? I still have the stock housing that came with it but was hoping there was an external WG housing available and possibly vband outlet? I have a 2.4 with 9.0 CR and plan on pushing the turbo to it's limits. Also car is 95% street drivin so quick spool is a top priority for me. Please recommend me a housing and pm me if you have one available.

The housing I'd recommend based on other results I've seen is the factory 12cm twin-scroll, although if you don't have a true twin-scroll manifold you'll be disappointed with it's performance and will probably be better-off with a .70 T3 Bullseye housing.

 

[Doubleot]

Hey justin, I'm planning on getting my turbo rebuilt E316G very soon, I know you are a genius when it comes to anything with these turbo's just wondering what the usual turn around time would be? This car isn't my daily, but I don't like having it in a torn down un drivable condition for an extended period of time. Please Pm me with these details as well as pricing.

Thanks much!

Sent From My Sidekick 4g, Because I can.

 

[forcefed86]

The housing I'd recommend based on other results I've seen is the factory 12cm twin-scroll, although if you don't have a true twin-scroll manifold you'll be disappointed with it's performance and will probably be better-off with a .70 T3 Bullseye housing.

Along these same lines what do you think of the .63 housings VS .70 in terms of spool up? I see Timsturbos has these available for $200. THe main downside I see is the 4 bolt downpipe flange. Although they do make 4bolt to V band adapters, assuming we have the space.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...eName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[TWOpointFORliter]

The housing I'd recommend based on other results I've seen is the factory 12cm twin-scroll, although if you don't have a true twin-scroll manifold you'll be disappointed with it's performance and will probably be better-off with a .70 T3 Bullseye housing.

Ok thanks I just wanted your expert opinion. Guess it is time to weld up the flapper on the stock housing and sell the t3 bep housing. I will also be using punishment racings twin scroll T3 manifold. I have heard good reviews on it.

 

[JusMX141]

Hey justin, I'm planning on getting my turbo rebuilt E316G very soon, I know you are a genius when it comes to anything with these turbo's just wondering what the usual turn around time would be? This car isn't my daily, but I don't like having it in a torn down un drivable condition for an extended period of time. Please Pm me with these details as well as pricing.

Turnaround time obviously varies depending on how much is ahead of you when it arrives. A complete description of services is listed in the Freelance ad.

Please note this thread is not intended for non-tech questions and should not be used to replace the Private Message feature as a way to contact me.

Along these same lines what do you think of the .63 housings VS .70 in terms of spool up? I see Timsturbos has these available for $200. THe main downside I see is the 4 bolt downpipe flange. Although they do make 4bolt to V band adapters, assuming we have the space.

Holset HX40 Turbine housing T3 Garrett 4 bolt .63 A/R - eBay (item 160654713005 end time Oct-19-11 21:07:58 PDT)

No idea. Do a little reasearch, PM some users...everyone seems to have different results- there is no one set spool across the board. I believe the biggest illustrated success of the full twin-scroll setup is Peeper's video showing 20psi at around 3K in the higher gears.

I feel like that Tim's housing is a joke- we already have a .55 housing in DSM bolt-on form for guys who want spool and a .70 T3 housing with a nice V-band outlet for $200ish for guys who want flow- plus the option of going twin-scroll with the factory housing....why the hell would we want a smallish T3 housing that would be laggier than the bolt-on BEP unit but not flow as much as the T3 .70 or 12cm housings?

 

[forcefed86]

No idea. Do a little reasearch, PM some users...everyone seems to have different results- there is no one set spool across the board. I believe the biggest illustrated success of the full twin-scroll setup is Peeper's video showing 20psi at around 3K in the higher gears.

I feel like that Tim's housing is a joke- we already have a .55 housing in DSM bolt-on form for guys who want spool and a .70 T3 housing with a nice V-band outlet for $200ish for guys who want flow- plus the option of going twin-scroll with the factory housing....why the hell would we want a smallish T3 housing that would be laggier than the bolt-on BEP unit but not flow as much as the T3 .70 or 12cm housings?

I wasn't asking anyone to spout out specific RPM/boost numbers. Just wondering if you have had any experiance with them.

I have done some research, not much information on the .63 housing, on DSM's anyway. I know my grandnational came with a .63 housing from the factory. With the 3.8 boost was instant. I'd think it might be a happy place for a 2.0.

Why would it be a joke? Something wrong with the quality? Wouldn't it have to be a middle ground between spool and peak power compared to the .55 and the .70?

 

[JusMX141]

I wasn't asking anyone to spout out specific RPM/boost numbers. Just wondering if you have had any experiance with them.

I've never had a HX35 on any of my cars, so I guess the answer would be no.

I have done some research, not much information on the .63 housing, on DSM's anyway. I know my grandnational came with a .63 housing from the factory. With the 3.8 boost was instant. I'd think it might be a happy place for a 2.0.

Why would it be a joke? Something wrong with the quality? Wouldn't it have to be a middle ground between spool and peak power compared to the .55 and the .70?

.63 is a Garrett-based housing spec. The next size up in Garrett's catalog is .82, so rightfully the .70 housing sold by BEP is already right in the middle-ground between spool and flow.

We know the .55 housing chokes the turbine and the .70 doesn't. I'd hate to be a guinea pig when the price is the same as the BEP housing that is already proven and has a v-band on the outlet.