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Questions for Justin...

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My turn!

I've got my stock t25 on my DD, a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST, with a few minor mods. (Strut brace, FP exhaust manifold, eBay intake & filter, Hard lower ICP.

I've been working on narrowing down boost leaks so far I've deleted all the emissions (kinda have some questions on this but I'll explain later) and capped/removed all the lines, replaced a missing TB bolt and both gaskets, tightened down a few coupler leaks, hose clamped the FPR lines down, and replaced the mani gaskets so no pre exhaust leaks.

Now when I go into boost I'm getting a loud shrill about 3500 up and it just gets louder, which I would imagine is a massive boost leak.

I've tested both from the turbo inlet and the throttle body elbow and I can't find anything else, but when I took my intake off I recently noticed my turbo fins are discolored to a blue/yellow in about the center of every blade. The car has never had a boost controller or anything hooked up so it hasn't been beat on. Do I just need to replace the turbo?

The only things I've done since this happened is the FP mani and emissions delete.

Now on the mani I had ones stud that has been broken off for a long time and I don't have time to pull the head so I just put on a new gasket and RTV and hoped for the best (please tell me this isn't my problem).

On the emissions delete there are 2 lines I have questions about one went from the canister to the passenger side firewall and I just capped it off and the other line is coming off the intake manifold through a screw in fitting and T'd into something the diagram showed to remove,and went to the drivers side firewall under the brake fluid so I just capped the T'd part off.

I know reading it is a lot harder then seeing it so if I need to clarify anything just ask.
 
Well i'm looking for a replacement turbo now. Thanks for the info anyway justin. After pulling it off, i found three large cracks in the exhaust housing, a good amount of oil, and something was missing. Can anyone spot the problem LOL.

(The second pic is just for kicks, cracks me up how small these little guys are)
 

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Shockingly, that is NOT the first time I've seen a VW K03 with the wastegate flapper missing! I figured it was an isolated incident but apparently not. ROFL

Judging by the oil around the turbine wheel (hot side), it definitely had some seal leakage. Since there's no wheel damage I'd hold on to the CHRA as a good core if I were you...and just search for a good replacement. Keep in mind there are a ton of Chinese knockoffs floating around out there- buyer beware....if it seems like it's too good of a deal, it's probably not a Genuine KKK turbo.
 
Shockingly, that is NOT the first time I've seen a VW K03 with the wastegate flapper missing! I figured it was an isolated incident but apparently not. ROFL

I could hardly tell the difference while driving it. I have no idea when it could have came off haha. It performs like a n/a 4cyl anyway. Whopping 150hp in a 3400lb car. I've never seen the flapper just missing though LOL.


Judging by the oil around the turbine wheel (hot side), it definitely had some seal leakage. Since there's no wheel damage I'd hold on to the CHRA as a good core if I were you...and just search for a good replacement. Keep in mind there are a ton of Chinese knockoffs floating around out there- buyer beware....if it seems like it's too good of a deal, it's probably not a Genuine KKK turbo.

Thats a good idea, id ditch the housing and keep it around for a spare. If i had any intentions on modding it id grab a k04 or something. But sadly intake and exhaust is all that car will ever see.
 
Most likely in the cat. Looks like it's been missing a while by the way the sealing edge of the wastegate hole is ragged-looking and one uniform color. Chances are pretty good that it will feel like a totally different car once this issue is remedied!
 
Where in the world did it go?! Is it still in the cat! Lol that's nuts man. Silly vw's

Haha, no clue. I peeked in the cat and didnt see it or any holes, but im replacing the cat with a 3" dp anyway so i'll take a better look when i get it out.

Most likely in the cat. Looks like it's been missing a while by the way the sealing edge of the wastegate hole is ragged-looking and one uniform color.

Yea i guess my very low expectations for the car were a little too low LOL. No boost gauge so it could have been gone for some time like you were saying.

Chances are pretty good that it will feel like a totally different car once this issue is remedied!

I hope so haha.
 
quick ? looking at getting a he351, does it have exactly the same wheel specs as a hy35? what are the differents? from my research the cold side has a bigger wheel than a hx35 but has the same hotside has a hy35?
 
HE351's use a 7-blade HX40 compressor wheel mated to a tiny HY35 turbine in a 9cm housing. Bad idea for DSM use.

The VGT version of the 351 uses the same 7-blade HX40 compressor mated to a turbine that is identical in spec to a HX35 turbine with more narrow inducer tips. It's not interchangeable with the HX35 turbine.
 
HE351's use a 7-blade HX40 compressor wheel mated to a tiny HY35 turbine in a 9cm housing. Bad idea for DSM use.

The VGT version of the 351 uses the same 7-blade HX40 compressor mated to a turbine that is identical in spec to a HX35 turbine with more narrow inducer tips. It's not interchangeable with the HX35 turbine.

The hy35 turbine isn't really all that small. It's 65mm x 58mm, that's not that much smaller than a hx35 at 70x60, or a TD06H at 67.3x58.8, and bigger than a T31 at 65x56.6. The hy35 turbine is even bigger than a gt30!

The old FP red was a clipped tdo6h and 60-1, in a 7 or 8cm dsm hotside, it was good enough for 600hp. So is the newer technology of the HE351 really that bad?

Further on, it takes a specific amount of hp to compress a volume of air, look here Compressor Efficiency and More

So assuming the HE351 wheel is going to be more efficient at most higher pr/airflow, it should therefore require the turbine to produce less power for a given pr/airflow. If you also assume that a turbines power output is proportional to the amount of gas flowing through it, it should theoretically take less flow through the turbine to produce the same boost/airflow. Since less gas is required to flow through the turbine, more will be bypassed by the wastegate, and thus the hot side isn't as restrictive on the HE351 as it is on the HY35.
I wish I knew more about this stuff so I didn't have to make so many assumptions. But I think its safe to say that the HE351 would preform the same as the HY35 up until the hy35 compressor runs out of steam


Anyway, is it possible to stick a hx35 turbine in a HE351 chra and bored housing ala the old school red and green?
 
The hy35 turbine isn't really all that small. It's 65mm x 58mm, that's not that much smaller than a hx35 at 70x60, or a TD06H at 67.3x58.8, and bigger than a T31 at 65x56.6. The hy35 turbine is even bigger than a gt30!

The old FP red was a clipped tdo6h and 60-1, in a 7 or 8cm dsm hotside, it was good enough for 600hp. So is the newer technology of the HE351 really that bad?
None of which are ever mated to a 70+ lb/min compressor during production like the HE351. ;)

But I think its safe to say that the HE351 would preform the same as the HY35 up until the hy35 compressor runs out of steam
....or until the HY35 turbine runs out of flow, at which point you would have been outspooled through the entire powerband by a HY35 user.
Anyway, is it possible to stick a hx35 turbine in a HE351 chra and bored housing ala the old school red and green?
Trouble with the HY35 and HE341/351 is that they are limited in compressor housing size as well as turbine housing size because of the design of the center housing. You could probably machine the 9cm turbine housing to use a HX35 turbine wheel, but you'll always be stuck with the 9cm turbine housing unless someone casts something bigger.

Same goes for the compressor cover- in the case of the HE351, the compressor outlet faces the wrong direction for use on most DSM's making installation difficult.
 
None of which are ever mated to a 70+ lb/min compressor during production like the HE351. ;)
....or until the HY35 turbine runs out of flow, at which point you would have been outspooled through the entire powerband by a HY35 user.

Uggghh. Way to miss the entire point of my post. For a vast majority of the map, the HE351 may just be a better turbo, because at the same boost/flow, at HE351 will require less drive than a HY35, meaning the motor makes more power! It might spool a little bit slower, seriously it won't be much more than a few hundred rpm, trust me the added moment of inertia is orders of magnitude less than the total MOI. Also, just because it will move 70lb/min doesn't mean you have to use it. If your looking at using 70lb/min you shouldn't be looking at a t4 setup anyway.


Trouble with the HY35 and HE341/351 is that they are limited in compressor housing size as well as turbine housing size because of the design of the center housing. You could probably machine the 9cm turbine housing to use a HX35 turbine wheel, but you'll always be stuck with the 9cm turbine housing unless someone casts something bigger.

I just need to know if the turbine will fit in the chra, and if the housing could be machined. Ya the 9cm housing is smallish, but it should spool faster than the 12cm t/s. People made 600whp on bored out 7cm's with similar wheels. This ought to be perfectly fine in s 500whp situation.

Here's the deal. I need a internally gated setup that bolts onto a cast manifold, that has the best spool/power combination that has the capability to trap 130mph+ in a 3300lb car on E85, and make good power to 8500+

Same goes for the compressor cover- in the case of the HE351, the compressor outlet faces the wrong direction for use on most DSM's making installation difficult.
Thats no big deal. I can turn it around. Further more any welding shop should be able to fix it for less than $100, and if that's breaks the budget, put a ####in 16g on your car and be done with it.
 
im looking to buy a new turbo for my build that has been worked on for the past 2 year upgrades in profile are up to date and looking to put down 600awhp. ive been looking at buying a HTA FP3082 a guy at FP told me it puts about 65 lbs/min. my intentions are a streetable car but be able to track it when i want to. i already read the thread by moonlight gsx about the debate between the 3582 and 3065. i was originally going to buy a 3582 and then started researching it more since i dont want to end up buyin another turbo because i dont like the one i just bought. any thoughts?
 
There's a whole thread comparing the 3065 and 3582 in the Newbie forum right now....don't really see the need to repeat myself here.

If you're looking for a reliable 600whp turbo in journal bearing form, look at the BW S362 and Holset HX40. I'd steer clear of any Garrett T3-based journal bearing turbo for that much power- this includes the PTE HP6262. They may make the power, but they won't last too long doing so.
 
Much like past companies SS Autochrome and XS Power, Godspeed and CX Racing does not build anything. Everything they sell on eBay is relabeled Chinese parts....often at a higher price and with a better warranty than other sellers.

They operate on the principle that if they sell you a part for 30% more than other vendors and one out of every five fails within their warranty period, they're still profiting even if they throw it in the scrap pile and send you a new one.
 
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Well cause I was looking at exhaust parts..And this downpipe came up witht he o2 housing connected to the downpipe..So I scrolled down, and it says cx racing made it..

So then I decided well I'll check out cxracings website, and see if they have the down pipe on there..It was not..So i cruised around the site for dsm stuff..Found a 20g, and you can only guess what the price was..Ebay pricing..And the WG rod looked very small like an ebay wg rod..And thought, I better ask you before I screw myself..
 
Justin,

Thanks for the great writeup on the TD05H turbo rebuild. I have one question though, where can you get pliers small enough to remove the tiny inner snap rings on the cartridge?
 
I took my car to Modified by KC last week for tuning on e85. I was hoping to turn the boost up to 35+ psi and go for broke but the shop just called to tell me they can't get my turbo to make more than 8 lbs of boost pressure. :confused: Any idea what the problem could be? They tried completely removing the wategate line with no success. I'm using DSMlink for boost control and I have a Tial 44mm gate (I just upgraded my spring set with one big blue and one small blue spring) so the car should build at least 20psi of boost pressure even with the boost control settings turned all the way down. Polk performance tuned my car a couple years ago after I first bolted on my 7 blade HX40 pro and she made 450whp on 22psi with no problem (on the old spring set - large yellow/small green and a profec B). Any ideas?
 
I took my car to Modified by KC last week for tuning on e85. I was hoping to turn the boost up to 35+ psi and go for broke but the shop just called to tell me they can't get my turbo to make more than 8 lbs of boost pressure. :confused: Any idea what the problem could be?
Obviously a wastegate malfunction- make sure your valve seat is in place.

WOW... Is this even physically possible????? I am not actually going to buy but it defiantly caught my attention.

T-25 upgraded to a super 60 :confused:

Turbocharger- DSM upgraded T25 fresh rebuild

And it also has a "gapless turbine piston ring"?????
T25 upgraded to a T3 Super 60 compressor wheel. Hope it has a 360* thrust plate or that's just asking for problems....the T25 compressor is too much for the stock thrust system.

Looks like the factory T25 turbine is still in use, so look for this thing to run out of steam at 5000-5500 just like a T25.
 
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