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Questions for Justin...

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If your two current Big 16G's are in nice, usable condition with no wheel damage, I'd sell those to help fund your upgrade. If you can get $200-$250 a piece for them, that means you'll only have to come up with an additional $400-$500 to make this happen.

Many people are scared away from Holsets by the fact that nobody sells these turbos ready-to-go....you pretty much have to piece together your setup with the turbo, housing, and oil line accessories all separate. Doesn't mean it's not worth it in the end, but some folks would rather buy all of their items from one source and be ready to bolt the turbo on the car when it arrives. You'd think that with the following that Holset turbos have among DSM's there would be a company doing this.

Something else to consider is that if you choose the Holset you're going to need an external wastegate as well seeing as Bullseye no longer offers their housings internally-gated. This is actually a good thing- once you go external you'll never go back, but it's an additional $300-$400 cost up-front that some do not take into consideration.
 
ii have 2 questions, (1) is the pte scm 6152 water and oil cooled (looking to buy one fromt he marketplace possibly), secondly if it is water/oil cooled will the stockk lines/fittings work, currently im running a B16g fed with an ss line from the ofh
 
ii have 2 questions, (1) is the pte scm 6152 water and oil cooled (looking to buy one fromt he marketplace possibly), secondly if it is water/oil cooled will the stockk lines/fittings work, currently im running a B16g fed with an ss line from the ofh
Every one I've ever seen was lube-oil only, no water provision on the center housing.

If it were water-cooled, stock fittings and lines would not work because the Garrett T3 center housing uses NPT fittings instead of 14mm banjo bolts.


What is the biggest compressor thats sucsessfully mated to a td05h turbine?
This is a little tricky because anything that fits a TD05H turbine will also fit the TD06 and 06H as well.

The flow limit for a TD05H turbine in a 7cm housing is around 42-44 lb/min, so any compressor larger than that would be a waste. There are guys claiming 47 lb/min out of the 68HTA, but I honestly don't see how that's possible.

The largest compressor I've seen mated to a TD05H turbine in a TD05H (16G-style) compressor cover is from a GT3071.

I believe the largest compressor you can possibly use mated to a TD06H turbine (would also fit TD05H's) inside the largest of the 20G covers (3" inlet) would be a 25G or 60-1.
 
Justin what are your thoughts on the extreme psi oil line kits with the filter inline? Im thinking since my motor is a fresh rebuild I may pick one up. My turbo is the 20g fp is selling in a 7cm housing
 
No feed line, was gonna source it from the head. Any reasons against the earls? thanks
 
More questions

1. I've been told a china 16g uses t3 style bearings, does that mean a t3 turbine could easily be put in a china 16g center housing?

2. What is the diameter of a td05 shaft where the compressor wheel goes? what is the diameter of a t3 where the compressor wheel goes? what is the diameter of a t04b where the compressor wheel goes?
 
No feed line, was gonna source it from the head. Any reasons against the earls? thanks
Head would be recommended; just use a 1G line if you decide against using a filter.

I don't know why it's assumed that using a new turbo on a new engine is a bad idea....it's not like Mitsubishi sells their brand new Evo's with used turbos, and you take the cars back to the dealer after the engine is broken in to have it swapped. If everything's built properly in the engine, you will not have problems.

I don't like Earl's filters because I don't see where they filter anything. I don't know if their micron is too large or what, but I've had Earl's-fed turbos that still showed evidence of oil contamination. This will not happen with a FP filter.

I've been told a china 16g uses t3 style bearings, does that mean a t3 turbine could easily be put in a china 16g center housing?
No. The turbine shafts are different lengths, as is the shanked area of the shaft where the bearings fit. If you were to use a T3 shaft, it would be tight against the thrust plate and the turbine seal still wouldn't be into the housing yet.
What is the diameter of a td05 shaft where the compressor wheel goes? what is the diameter of a t3 where the compressor wheel goes? what is the diameter of a t04b where the compressor wheel goes?
T3 is around .245", TD05H is around .250"....but it's enough that a T3 compressor doesn't even try to slide on a TD05H shaft.

A T04B shaft diameter will be the same as a T04E- they share the same turbines. Only the compressor wheels, covers, and backplates are different. This is why you see the 60-1, a T04B compressor, used behind T04E covers as well.
 
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What's the difference between a stage 3 wheel and a stage 5 wheel? Thanks in advance
 
why do ebay turbos have .70 a/r imprinted on them? Any clue?
Because the Chinese are retarded and this is how they translate the "070" cast into the MHI 7cm2 turbine housings, denoting the housing as actually being 7cm2.

According to the Chinese, a 7cm2 housing with an actual a/r of .49 is translated as having a .70 a/r and being close to 10cm2.

As you can see, useless information. ;)
Why does the trim turbine math makeup for the actual trim turbine housing size?
I don't understand what you're asking here- turbine wheel trim and housing a/r are two different things altogether.

What's the difference between a stage 3 wheel and a stage 5 wheel? Thanks in advance
T31 (Stage 3) = Inducer 2.559", Exducer 2.229"

T352 (Stage 5) = Inducer 2.759", Exducer 2.436"
 
Thanks justin, and yeah the motors built right I assure you. I think I will save my money and just go with their reg line from the head.
 
Hey justin tell me about this turbo I just picked up today:

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I know its a 20g, but what else my man?
Thanks
 

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Definitely a 20G compressor, and that's either a TD06 or TD06H turbine....the only way you'll know is to pull the turbine housing and measure. A TD06 turbine has a 2.56" inducer and 2.17" exducer, while the TD06H has a 2.65" inducer and 2.31" exducer.

Flapper's welded shut, but it looks like this turbo could easily be converted back to internally-gated if necessary.

Turbine wheel's a little wet- might want to consider at least new journal bearings and seals before running this turbo.
 
Yes I was planing on rebuilding myself. I found this perty little gem for real cheap. Im going external wastegate off manifold.

I wanted to pick your brain on this turbo, flow rates, max HP output ect. Does it being tdo6 or tdo6h make a power difference?

Also do you notice how the compressor cover is cocked sideways? I found that wierd, no dsm could have ran the turbo that way.
 
I looked it up. You were right about the inline filters. Earl's is a 15 micron rating a FP's is a 10 micron.

Now onto my question. I need to convert to feeding my 14B from the OFH because the idiot before me must've stripped the original fitting because there is a larger metric bolt that has been drilled out really crappily. The FP inline filter says it has -4an fittings with a .100" orifice. If I get a SS -4 an line from the OFH will I still need to run a restrictor? Thanks.
 
I wanted to pick your brain on this turbo, flow rates, max HP output ect. Does it being tdo6 or tdo6h make a power difference?
Airflow potential of the compressor is the same as any other 20G, but the larger turbine will allow the engine to breathe better- especially at higher boost levels. This added flow on the hot side comes with a cost of a little extra lag, but the tradeoff is worth it as long as you're running enough boost to make it worthwhile.

By comparison, the TD05H 20G spools really quick but has a lot of backpressure due to the small turbine. The torque comes on hard but tapers off as the revs climb, so you must short-shift the car in order to stay in the torque curve. With the larger turbine the 20G is able to pull much longer through the RPM range because the turbo has less backpressure; the engine can breathe better as the RPMs climb.
Also do you notice how the compressor cover is cocked sideways? I found that wierd, no dsm could have ran the turbo that way.
You'd be surprised what I've seen...that's definitely not uncommon. The cover can be clocked however you'd prefer, so upon reassembly you can arrange it to be downfiring if that's what you're after.


I need to convert to feeding my 14B from the OFH because the idiot before me must've stripped the original fitting because there is a larger metric bolt that has been drilled out really crappily. The FP inline filter says it has -4an fittings with a .100" orifice. If I get a SS -4 an line from the OFH will I still need to run a restrictor? Thanks.
I wouldn't run any additional restriction; it should be fine.

If you want, you can pick up a FP ball-bearing filter and drill the .030" orifice out to .070", which is the preferred size for a Mitsubishi turbo.

The other thing you should do is use an oil line that has a banjo fitting at the turbo instead of one with a fitting that threads directly into the turbo. I honestly see less oiling issues with turbos that are fed using lines with banjo fittings at the turbo over the open fitting which fires oil straight into the cartridge. The banjo doesn't necessarily add restriction, but it must slow the flow down enough to make a difference.

You want this at the turbo:

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Not this:

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So how much boost would waken this turbo up? Do you happen to know the lbs/min it flows?

Also this turbo is oil and coolant cooled correct? This turbo only has a feed line and return line open. The others are all blocked off. Do those need to be removed? I already have a 14b on my 2g already, just trying to figure out what else I need to do. Sorry for all the questions, but your a ton of help!
 
So how much boost would waken this turbo up? Do you happen to know the lbs/min it flows?
It will take more boost than a TD05H 20G to provide a noticeable "hit" in torque, but it will never hit the same as an 05H 20G. I'd guess boost in the mid 20's should make this turbo feel like it's worth having.

Look at a 20G compressor map if you have any questions about the estimated airflow per boost level, but this varies greatly car-to-car by supporting mods, exhaust size, etc.
Also this turbo is oil and coolant cooled correct? This turbo only has a feed line and return line open. The others are all blocked off. Do those need to be removed? I already have a 14b on my 2g already, just trying to figure out what else I need to do. Sorry for all the questions, but your a ton of help!
You can run it with coolant if you want, but it's not absolutely necessary as long as you allow an adequate cooldown period prior to turning off the ignition. There is literally no difference between a water-cooled and non-water-cooled cartridge with the exception of the water jacket.

There's no reason for the ports in the turbo to be blocked off like that...if anything I'd think it would be better if they were open so air can flow through the water jacket and aid in cooling even more. It's not like it's going to leak anything if the ports aren't blocked. LOL
 
I wouldn't run any additional restriction; it should be fine.

If you want, you can pick up a FP ball-bearing filter and drill the .030" orifice out to .070", which is the preferred size for a Mitsubishi turbo.

The other thing you should do is use an oil line that has a banjo fitting at the turbo instead of one with a fitting that threads directly into the turbo. I honestly see less oiling issues with turbos that are fed using lines with banjo fittings at the turbo over the open fitting which fires oil straight into the cartridge. The banjo doesn't necessarily add restriction, but it must slow the flow down enough to make a difference.

Sweet, FP inline filter and feed line it is! Thanks again.:thumb:
 
Are the outlet flanges on the HX40's interchangeable? As in can I take the V Band flange off of my T3 housing and put it on a T4 housing?
 
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