Questions for Justin...

[Slow91Laser]

Definitely a 68HTA, but that's not the turbine housing which originally came on the 68HTA....instead your turbo came with an Evo III-style turbine housing, which is actually an upgrade weight-wise, durability-wise, and flow-wise. ]

Thanks a TON!

Also since this housing is setup for external gate do i just leave the hole for the flapper like it is? I just wanna make sure i dont have to close it off?

 

[Talipse96]

Thanks a TON!

Also since this housing is setup for external gate do i just leave the hole for the flapper like it is? I just wanna make sure i dont have to close it off?

As long as your going to be running the WG off the O2 housing that hole will be fine. It only has to be closed if your going to be running a WG off the manifold.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What is the difference between this turbo
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts and the 68HTA?

It seems to me that Blouch is just trying to bite off of what FP has.

 

[Slow91Laser]

Hmm?

And how would i go about closing this hole?

 

[Talipse96]

I take it you don't have the flapper from when it was internally gated...

If I were you "I" would get a small piece of metal and weld it to the turbo. You might have to weld around the whole thing because it looks like it was ported as well.

Otherwise there are 02 housings that block off the factory WG port. It just all depends on what you have for parts already.

 

[JusMX141]

And how would i go about closing this hole?

Swap to another 7cm turbine housing, tack-weld the flapper shut on the replacement housing. This is the easiest route.

The more difficult idea would be to fab your own o2 housing which blocks the wastegate port off altogether.

As stated above, these two steps are is only required if you're running an external gate off the manifold.

 

[Slow91Laser]

Yes i will be running a gate off the manifold so it looks like ill have to fab something up!

Thanks again guys!

 

[Killa_dsm]

Hey Justin, how are the Bae turbine/compressor wheels for the holset from ebay? I don't think they are genuine, but do you have any experience with them? Would you recommend running one for applications over 30psi?

Thanks

 

[JusMX141]

BAE = Chinese. A close buddy of mine called their "warehouse" in CA to order something and the guy on the other end of the phone barely spoke English.

I've personally had a bad experience with them, so I'm done buying their parts which do not fit as they're supposed to. I bought one of their BW kits to repair a friend's S366, and the journal bearings didn't fit. Simple, right? I email them and they said to send them the specs of the bearings I need and they will send out the right bearings. I did so, and WEEKS went past with no return message, no confirmation that they had been shipped.

In the meantime I bought the right parts from Bullseye. Paid more, but got the right parts....so the price didn't really matter at this point. I contact BAE and tell them I want to return the parts because they didn't fit. I get a one-liner message back in broken English that said something like "send part back for refund"....no address. I find the address on their website, so I proceed to send the parts back- another week and a half goes by after UPS confirms the parts were delivered and STILL no refund. At this point I've had enough so I filed a Paypal claim, and got my funds back within a week.

Sucks, too- they could have a lot of my business because their prices on some of their parts kits like the Garrett GT32 and GT35 journal bearing kits are great...but I'm done for good with BAE. I can't risk parts that don't fit and poor communication when I have customer turbos to repair.

 

[Killa_dsm]

Wow thats pretty bad. Ok good to know, thank you very much!

 

[TurboATM]

If you dare run a T25 at boost levels in excess of stock, the thrust plate is going to explode on you in a very short time.

Truth, and justin has seen mine. I got the car with the turbo being soooo tight. After about 100 miles of basic driving and 5 track passes at 15-17 psi...its what justin likes to say, "loose like sleeve of wizard"




This thread rocks.

 

[1990AWD]

What would you recommend for a better wastegate actuator?

I am battling boost creep on my 14b. I have ported my hotside to the point where if I do anymore the flapper will not seal. I also made it so the flapper can open a full 90* but I don't think the factory actuator has enough travel.

I found this tech article (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...boost-creep-modified-wga-peepers-mod-how.html) but I don't think I have the skill to do this.

Would a T-25 or E16g actuator be a solution or what are my options here?

 

[doayamaha]

What would you recommend for a better wastegate actuator?

I am battling boost creep on my 14b. I have ported my hotside to the point where if I do anymore the flapper will not seal. I also made it so the flapper can open a full 90* but I don't think the factory actuator has enough travel.

I found this tech article (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...boost-creep-modified-wga-peepers-mod-how.html) but I don't think I have the skill to do this.

Would a T-25 or E16g actuator be a solution or what are my options here?

just checking but you did port more than just the whole that the flapper seals right. A buddy of mine has a big 16g and was battling large amounts of boost creep, about 2 hours with a die grinder and it was fixed.

 

[1990AWD]

just checking but you did port more than just the whole that the flapper seals right. A buddy of mine has a big 16g and was battling large amounts of boost creep, about 2 hours with a die grinder and it was fixed.

Ya I completely ported the whole inlet and made it so it's not such a restriction to the flapper. I followed this guide http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...oler/186525-how-cure-boost-creep-porting.html

 

[JusMX141]

What would you recommend for a better wastegate actuator?

I am battling boost creep on my 14b. I have ported my hotside to the point where if I do anymore the flapper will not seal. I also made it so the flapper can open a full 90* but I don't think the factory actuator has enough travel.

I found this tech article (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...boost-creep-modified-wga-peepers-mod-how.html) but I don't think I have the skill to do this.

Would a T-25 or E16g actuator be a solution or what are my options here?

A 14B generally does not creep as badly as a 16G because there is more turbine restriction / backpressure via the 6cm housing, so the airflow will generally exit through the wastegate as long as there are no issues.

Porting the housing so the flapper can open 90* is a waste of time. Once while attempting to make more than 17psi using a T25 actuator on a Frank L5 20G I adjusted the wastegate arm so tight that the flapper on this particular car only opened about 1/8" and the car STILL didn't make more than 17psi. I could tell the wastegate was still opening because the car had an o2 dump. This is when I was turned on to using stiffer wastegate actuators like those from Holset and the AGP actuators which are tunable.

Your only solution is to switch to an o2 housing with an external wastegate dump, or add some restriction to your exhaust- often using a 2.5" downpipe will fix the problem- the problem being you are using an exhaust system that is too large or unrestricted for your application. Many people think there is no negative effect to using a giant exhaust on a somewhat-stock car at near-stock boost levels....you're experiencing the one and only downside- proper boost control.

 

[sexystover]

hey i got one for you. i just picked this turbo up today for 100 with a tubular o2 housing/dump it needs a rebuild as it has excessive play but the turbines have not hit the housing yet.


the only info i got from it was its a precision with a dsm bolton housing and part number PTB-150-3230 scratched into the compressor housing

i googled the part number and nothing came up, hoping you can help

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[JusMX141]

PTE GT3251E or 3255E, depending on the compressor inducer spec. The info you're looking for should be visible directly below the part number you posted above from the compressor outlet.

These turbos had thrust systems that were not very durable and only offered 4 different clock positions for the center housing to mount into the turbine housing, making oil line routing difficult. The weak thrust design stems from a 270* thrust plate with no upgrade option because of the uncommon turbo model. The GT3251E made roughly the same airflow as a 20G but spooled slower (compared to a TD05H 20G) was not as reliable. Replacement parts are also expensive because this is an uncommon turbo- the parts kit alone is around $150.

As stated above, the most common failure for a GT32 center housing is a thrust failure, and once this happens you'll develop in/out play very rapidly and the compressor wheel will grind away at the back of the cover causing damage to both parts. Pull the compressor cover and verify this turbo to not have damaged components- if so, you may want to pass on this deal altogether as you'll spend a ton to fix a turbo that will most likely fail again in a short time.

 

[sexystover]

well its already in my possesion along with an ebay 50 trim just deciding which turbo to rebuild .. this one or the ebay 50 trim

also would it be possible to use a garrett rebuild kit for this turbo? if so what garrett turbo is this comparable to? just trying to figure out what parts i would have to order if i do decide to rebuild it

 

[JusMX141]

well its already in my possesion along with an ebay 50 trim just deciding which turbo to rebuild .. this one or the ebay 50 trim

Why would you waste your time rebuilding an eBay T04E junker when you can buy a brand new one for around $120 shipped?

also would it be possible to use a garrett rebuild kit for this turbo? if so what garrett turbo is this comparable to? just trying to figure out what parts i would have to order if i do decide to rebuild it

You have to use Garrett parts- that's the point I'm making of why the parts kits are $150. There just aren't any aftermarket kits available.

 

[Boomdeeze]

Hey Justin, would you happen to know where I can get oil fittings for my BW s259 ett? I looked on extreme and they seem to have fittings for Garetts and other turbos. I need one to attach my 4AN feed line and one to attach my 10AN drain kit.

 

[JusMX141]

The inlet thread should be 1/4" NPT, and the drain flange is the same as a Garrett.

 

[Boomdeeze]

So the inlets for the BW's are the same as Holsets?

 

[JusMX141]

Holsets should have a 12mm x 1.5 inlet unless it was tapped while the cartridge was apart. Some of my rebuild customers ask for this service to be done at the time of a rebuild because they can find fittings easier, and the tapered NPT fittings seal better.

 

[Boomdeeze]

Oh I was just looking on extreme and seen that the 1/4" NPT was for holsets and just dont want to order the wrong one.

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

Oh I see they offer two for the holsets.

 

[sexystover]

Why would you waste your time rebuilding an eBay T04E junker when you can buy a brand new one for around $120 shipped?

You have to use Garrett parts- that's the point I'm making of why the parts kits are $150. There just aren't any aftermarket kits available.

ok so for what garrett turbo would i order parts to rebuild the precision?

 

[JusMX141]

GT32. It's not on G-Pop's site, but they have the parts....or you can roll the dice with BAE and hope they sell you something that fits properly and will refund your money in a timely manner if it doesn't.