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Questions for Justin...

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The one positive thing about the GT32 turbos is that the compressor wheel itself is threaded...there's no need to ever mark the alignment of the wheels regardless of the type of balancing because it's literally impossible to clock the wheels improperly.
 
Justin,
I had a holset wh1e which had the thrust bearing and thrust collar fail, basically break apart into pieces. I just bought another holset 60mm h1e and don't want this happening again. What could have cause thrust bearing failure like that? Also how does this turbine shaft look, oiling wise. The turbine assembly is garbage now because it made contact but I want to make sure I'm good on oiling.

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Thanks
 
What seems to make more power on a HX35, The stock 12cm housing or the BEP .70 T3 housing?

Also, have you ever seen 600whp out of an HX35? If not, whats the most youve seen?
 
Ok so I have a question! I'm dumping a ton of money into my TSI right now and one of the things i picked up was a new EVO III 16G. Not that egay crap:nono:. Well My car smokes during boost but once i get off it and start slowing down it'll blow a good bit of blue smoke for a second or two! The turbo on it now has a ton of shaft play like pushing it into the hot side and pulling it out of the compressor side (it's started to make a whine noise recently under boost). Enough to make an audible clunk..... but the only thing is I dropped the downpipe when i pulled the tranny to have Jon Shepard rebuild it and looked in the hot side of this turbo. The exhaust wheel isn't wet like covered in oil and there's no oil on the intake side either. Does it sound like the turbo is the oil burning culprit? Maybe valve stem seals? I guess when i get the car all put back together with the fresh tranny and turbo i'll find out but i just wanted to know if you had any ideas :confused::confused::confused:
 
Justin,
I had a holset wh1e which had the thrust bearing and thrust collar fail, basically break apart into pieces. I just bought another holset 60mm h1e and don't want this happening again. What could have cause thrust bearing failure like that? Also how does this turbine shaft look, oiling wise. The turbine assembly is garbage now because it made contact but I want to make sure I'm good on oiling.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Thanks
Looks like you're getting a little heat on the turbine side, possibly a little low on the oil pressure or volume if your turbo suffered a thrust failure with no other sign of damage due to contamination. Generally the cupped thrust collars are as tough as nails and have no reason to explode on their own, but lack of oil or something blocking the oil supply hole(s) in the thrust plate is like kryptonite.

What seems to make more power on a HX35, The stock 12cm housing or the BEP .70 T3 housing?
On a proper setup, the 12cm housing is going to make more power because it's near a .90 a/r.
Also, have you ever seen 600whp out of an HX35? If not, whats the most youve seen?
No clue man, look at the results thread.

There are a handful of guys out there trapping into the mid 130's, and that could break down to 600whp depending on their race weight.

Ok so I have a question! I'm dumping a ton of money into my TSI right now and one of the things i picked up was a new EVO III 16G. Not that egay crap:nono:. Well My car smokes during boost but once i get off it and start slowing down it'll blow a good bit of blue smoke for a second or two! The turbo on it now has a ton of shaft play like pushing it into the hot side and pulling it out of the compressor side (it's started to make a whine noise recently under boost). Enough to make an audible clunk..... but the only thing is I dropped the downpipe when i pulled the tranny to have Jon Shepard rebuild it and looked in the hot side of this turbo. The exhaust wheel isn't wet like covered in oil and there's no oil on the intake side either. Does it sound like the turbo is the oil burning culprit? Maybe valve stem seals? I guess when i get the car all put back together with the fresh tranny and turbo i'll find out but i just wanted to know if you had any ideas :confused::confused::confused:
Are you kidding me? Shaft play bad enough to make an audible "clunk" but you're unsure if it's the turbo?

Newsflash- if your turbo has shaft play and your car is smoking, the turbo is junk.
 
Ok so I received my -10an return line kit today for my Hx35. Of coarse it did not include the oil return gasket or hardware :cry:. Can you tell me what gasket I need to buy and what bolts/washers to hold on my return flange?
 
I make all of my own drain gaskets using Fel-Pro Karropak 3046 from various templates of OEM gaskets I've acquired over the years. PM me your info and I'll throw one in an envelope for you.

The bolts should be 8mm x 1.25 on the drain flange.
 
I too love the idea of this thread, meaning I can stop flooding your inbox now. 18G shipped this morning. Is there an adjustable WGA for the s16g similar to the ones they offer for the SRT? On the SRT, the adjustable WGA helped with part throttle boost and allowed you to hold more boost without a MBC. In fact I never used a MBC and added 5-7 PSI without doing anything but lengthening and shortening the arm.
 
Hey Justin, i have this friend hookin' me up with a 50 trim, he is pretty badass i know...there was something stated about needing a bigger oil drain line. Could you link me what id need?

Also, anything else you would suggest one keep their eye out for when upgrading to a 50 trim!
 
Is there an adjustable WGA for the s16g similar to the ones they offer for the SRT? On the SRT, the adjustable WGA helped with part throttle boost and allowed you to hold more boost without a MBC. In fact I never used a MBC and added 5-7 PSI without doing anything but lengthening and shortening the arm.
Not really- Forge Motorsport makes one but it costs almost as much as going external. I can fab such a beast using an AGP SRT4 actuator that I have here, but generally our stock actuators are good for roughly double their holding pressure just by using a MBC.

I played around with an adjustable actuator on my buddy Jeff's car in the past, trying to get near 25psi...and it was tough. It took a delicate balance of tuning between the MBC and the adjustable actuator arm- too much tension on the actuator and it would spike / drop; too little tension and it wouldn't get to the desired boost level.

Hey Justin, i have this friend hookin' me up with a 50 trim, he is pretty badass i know...there was something stated about needing a bigger oil drain line. Could you link me what id need?
Not bigger- just something that will fit the turbo in place of the stock line. Something like this will work:

TURBO OIL RETURN DRAIN LINE -10AN

If your friend / installer can't make this line work, he's a f*cking idiot. LOL
 
Not really- Forge Motorsport makes one but it costs almost as much as going external. I can fab such a beast using an AGP SRT4 actuator that I have here, but generally our stock actuators are good for roughly double their holding pressure just by using a MBC.

I played around with an adjustable actuator on my buddy Jeff's car in the past, trying to get near 25psi...and it was tough. It took a delicate balance of tuning between the MBC and the adjustable actuator arm- too much tension on the actuator and it would spike / drop; too little tension and it wouldn't get to the desired boost level.


If it's that much trouble and I'm not looking to make that much power any way, I'll probably just stick to using my Hallman with the original flapper. I never had use a MBC with SRT and just adjusting the wastegate would give a steady rise in boost to redline. Difference in engines and turbo specs I guess. Can't wait to get the new setup installed and start driving the car again. The weather is starting warm up and I'd imagine the GSX will be a fun one this summer.
 
I never had use a MBC with SRT and just adjusting the wastegate would give a steady rise in boost to redline. Difference in engines and turbo specs I guess.
The SRT4 has a completely different wastegate system- the turbine housing is actually part of the manifold on these cars, so I'm sure that may have something to do with their ability to control boost:

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The SRT4 has a completely different wastegate system- the turbine housing is actually part of the manifold on these cars, so I'm sure that may have something to do with their ability to control boost:

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whoa, that's a weird setup
 
I had really good luck with this setup. I have noticed that there is a lot of "tension" between the SRT and DSM owners, but I love both of them. They each offer their pros and cons. I loved the reliability of my SRT running 18 PSI with only spending $50 on an aftermarket adjustable wastegate. However I love the look of a clean and tastefully modded 2G. Plus I do enjoy the countless hours I've spent working on it. ;)

Justin, do you know of a way to use the SRT turbofold on a GSX or is that completely unpractical?
 
I had really good luck with this setup. I have noticed that there is a lot of "tension" between the SRT and DSM owners, but I love both of them. They each offer their pros and cons.
I honestly think the tension exists because 90% of SRT4 Neon owners are either spoiled children with loud blow off valves or meathead Domestic guys who are afraid to fully commit to the import scene....and the SRT4 Neon allows them to hold on to that one thread of domestic dignity in their own mind.

There are a couple good guys like yourself who can recognize a fun car regardless of the brand. ;)

I always liked the cars- thought they were a little overpriced considering they're basically a Chrysler Cavalier, but I'd drive one if I was ever presented a deal.

Justin, do you know of a way to use the SRT turbofold on a GSX or is that completely unpractical?
Impractical- especially considering how small the factory turbo is on the SRT4 Neon. You'd be better off finding a way to make a twin-scroll Evo X manifold and turbo fit our cars.
 
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Impractical- especially considering how small the factory turbo is on the SRT4 Neon. You'd be better off finding a way to make a twin-scroll Evo X manifold and turbo fit our cars.

Maybe I am slow or can't pick up on the sarcasm or something. But can you explain that? And maybe compare its performance to a more common turbo.

I ask because my next door neighbor was trying to pawn of a EVO X turbo on me right before I deployed. And if it's that good, maybe I'll see if I can get it when I get back.

Guess I'll add this too: What's your opinions on a EVO VIII turbo?
 
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I'm guessing that he is inferring that the manifold will not bolt up to our cars without some nasty fabrication. The same would be the case for the SRT setup but the EVO X would yield better results if it was even possible.
 
Maybe I am slow or can't pick up on the sarcasm or something. But can you explain that? And maybe compare its performance to a more common turbo.
You're slow. :D

The stock Evo X turbo has a compressor wheel that is nearly the same size as an Evo III 16G, and could easily be upgraded to a 20G without machining the center housing. It also features a twin-scroll 12cm turbine housing, meaning it will flow like a 7cm housing with a TD06H turbine, but spool like a 13G on a well-tuned setup.

The problem is the manifold will not bolt to our head, and the runners are spaced a little differently than a DSM manifold so adapting a DSM head flange will present a challenge.

What we need is for a vendor to step up to the plate and fab a manifold that allows an Evo X turbo to fit our head.
I ask because my next door neighbor was trying to pawn of a EVO X turbo on me right before I deployed. And if it's that good, maybe I'll see if I can get it when I get back.
Get it, and give it to me. LOL
Guess I'll add this too: What's your opinions on a EVO VIII turbo?
They're great...for an Evo VIII. ;)
 
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